Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Aftr several tries by a helpfpul dealer, I finally got the cabin air filter and the bracket it goes in. It slid right in over the blower fan behind the glove box beautifully. It seems Toyota superceded the combo number (bracket and filter) for the filter alone. The Parts guys had to manually enter the mnumber after calling the distributor in Baltimore. they knew of the problem there. The bracket fits 2001 HL that came without a cabin air filter. It really works to keep pollen and dust out of the car. If anyone wants the number, speak up.
  • mike7mike7 Member Posts: 7
    Great...glad you were able to find it locally. I looked on the
    toyotaparts4u web site, but could not find any hitch wiring
    related items or instructions.
  • pepsi925manspepsi925mans Member Posts: 2
    Can you provide us the correct part number for
    both the holder as well as the filter number.
    I too also have a 2001 Highlander that does not
    have a Cabin filter builtin. Thanks.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    seem to be missing the mark on knowing this info and also trailer hitch/wiring info
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    The cabin air filter number is 87139-48020-83. the number for the bracket is 88899-30870. The bracket had a label the said "parts, cooling unit". I was real pleased with the ease it installed. Good luck.
  • sdanderssdanders Member Posts: 37
    47K miles on my 2002 (not yet 2 years on the road) and was amazed at the quantity of crud this little filter trapped and kept out of the blower fan! It was loaded with dirt, dried leaves, pollen, tiny splinters/twigs etc. I just bought a 2 micron filter 25x25 at Home Depot for $4 and made four new cabin filters for myself.
  • pepsi925manspepsi925mans Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the information, looking forward to order from the
    dealer and retrofit my 2001 HL. Thanks once again.
  • rknj2004rknj2004 Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    I'm heavily considering the 04 HL V6 AWD. I like the ride but wanted to take some feedback on the longterm performance - any issues with the engine or AWD in snow. I saw a lot of complaints on noise, has that been improved on the 04 models..

    ANy help or feedback is appreciated.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    I have a 2001 Highlander V6 4x4 with 33,000 miles and have had continuous problems with the breaking system since purchasing this vehicle. The master cylinder needs to be replaced again and even when the breaking system is working properly the breaks are soft and heavy pedal pressure is needed. The Toyota dealer network in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania is not very pleasant either. I also own a 2000 Rav 4, a 2001 4 Runner and a 2003 Camary SE. The Rav 4 and 4 Runner are OK, the Camary SE was a very big waste of money. On all of my vehicles I purchased the Toyota Platinum Extended waranty. Maybe it is just my perception, but Toyota just doesn't appear to care and the dealer net work is simply arrogant. I would like to know whether other Highlander owners are experiencing problems with the break system and what has been done to resolve the problem. My vehicles are meticulously maintained and I am really aggravated by this recurring problem with my Highlander break system.

    I was going to purchase a 2004 Highlander Limited, but instead found a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor XLS out of lease with 6,000 miles for $22,000.00 loaded with everything. So far I love the Endeavor, the sound system is incredible unlike the Highlander. My Endeavor has a 350 watt Infinity system and I can not wait to hook up my iPod. Have not tried the Mitsubishi service net work yet, but it can not be much worse than Toyota. Also the Endeavor running on 89 octane gives me 20-22 in mixed city driving, I only wish my Highlander achieved this.

    Again would like to hear comments on break system.

    Stan in Philadelphia
  • arizgeorge1arizgeorge1 Member Posts: 19
    Yesterday, I noticed that the weather stripping around the frame of the driver's door and also the right rear side on my 2002 Highlander is cracked for about 3 inches along the bottom. Same location on both pieces. Although, the dealer will replace it under warranty, I am still very disappointed in the parts quality of this vehicle, plus the lousy thin paint on the rocker panel. I am more impressed with the quality on my 2000 Olds Intrigue.

        Incidentally, whoever had the idea for washing the cabin air filter out in soapy water deserves recognition. The filter now looks almost new and it saved me about $30 for a new one!
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    Read your complaint regarding weatherstrip replacement. Had to have the weatherstrips replaced on both front doors. Work done by Champion Toyota, Philadelphia, PA. Work order reads: Customer states both front door weatherstriping is wearing uneven on the bottom. Premature wear. Replace both weatherstrips on both front doors. 743261/62/13. I also have the complaint about the thin paint on the rocker panels. My Highlander is white and the rocker panels look like my 2 year old granddaughter's nursery school class painted them.

    What really upsets me though is my concern with the brake system. I can live with poor weatherstriping and paint, but the brakes really cause me concern for my safety.

    Good luck with your weatherstriping replacement. The dealer told me that they are familiar with this problem and it is caused by door unevenness.
  • bigspender1bigspender1 Member Posts: 4
    I bought my 04 HL 4 cyl two weeks ago and have also noticed the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd. The dealer mentioned something about changing the modulator, and that they did change them in the old Camry's when they had Hi miles. It's funny the guy behind the counter mentioned the modulator and the mechanic as usual said he could not duplicate the problem. I'm begining to think this is a problem Toyota is not telling us about. I dont by the learning bit. Please Reply.
  • bigspender1bigspender1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a very bad chemical like smell coming from the vents. The dealer sprayed some stuff called OZIUM in the vents to correct the smell.The smell is worse now. I can't hardly drive the vehicle now because we get a headace while driving. Anyone heard of this. We also had to have 2 of the doors realigned. I'm begining to wonder. I'm about ready to trade it in. Are there any good mechanics out there that really know what's going on. I'm willing to pay someone who's got their act together. Any good tranny mechanics out there. Please help. An angry Highlanderer. Don't forget to look at my previous message, # 1403.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    do a google search for "airsept"

    In the meantime turn off the A/C but with the blower on medium, the rear windows down, and slowly empty an entire spray can of lysol into the air intake at the bottom outside of the front windshield passenger side.

    If you have a pollen filter remove it first and install a new one afterwards.

    The odor is the result of the thin film of moisture left on the A/C evaporator each night after a days use of the A/C. Damp and dark interior of the A/C plenum during the night offers an excellent breeding ground for microbes that comprise most mould and mildew spores.

    If you garage the vehicle at night it will help to lower the windows each and every night to allow the thin film of moisture to more readily evaporate away and OUT!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The HL cannot be safely fitted with snowchains due to tight suspension clearance in the rear. Owners manual says use snowchains ONLY on the front but in another section warns against this due to high likelihood of loss of control due to dramatically greater traction in the front vs the rear.

    I added 45mm spacers all around on my 01 RX and upgraded to 17x8 wheels 235/65/17 tires and used rear snowchains ONLY quite successfully this past winter.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    I had an awful smell from the A/C vents about a month ago on my 02 Highlander and it turned out that a mouse or mice had built a nest in the heater box and between the intake manifold and the plastic cover. Dealer removed it and smell is gone.

    Also, not sure about your shifting problem, but new transmissions these days ahve a "learning curve" and get smoother as you drive more. In my Highlander it seemed worse as I slowed down to a stop at a light-it would downshift noticably. It is now fine.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I got the Check Engine/VSC lights on because of a vacuum hose being disconnected during air cleaner service.
    How do you clear the codes? In my Mazda you have to disconnect the battery and apply the brake for a certain number of seconds. Is there a similar procedure for the HL? I don't have my manuals handy.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    Found the answer to my question (courtesy the Tundra Solutions Highlander forum), and it is ...
    "If the malfunction does not reoccur in 3 consecutive trips, the MIL goes off automatically but the DTCs remain recorded in the ECM memory."
    MIL - Malfunction Indicator Light
    DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code
  • hljoehljoe Member Posts: 5
    Took our HL,5k miles, to dealer for same problem. Everything is according to specs. They didn't adjust anything, but the trans seems smoother now. I wanted to established a service trail in case this problem continues. They also mentioned the Camry problem to me after I told him our 99 Camry is very smooth.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    I have an O4 HL, basic model. On the dash (not the instrument panel) to the left of the steering wheel, there are three dead cutouts covered by little rectangular plastic black plugs - one is for the security system which i do not have
    what are the otehr two for.

    all 3 are to the right of the mirror adjuster
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    Took my 2001 V6 4x4 with 30,000 miles to Champion Toyota, Philadelphia, PA with a complaint that my brakes are soft and the pedal goes down to the floor. Prior to taking the vehicle to Champion had the vehicle gone over by several independent mechanics who said that my master cylinder is not operating correctly. Champion wrote up my service order "check brake pulsation road test vehicle 1 mile did not duplicate pulsation - check master cylinder found no problem at this time." Champion did note a comment that front brake pads are aftermarket. Because the Toyota brake pads were squealing since the vehicle was new at 26,000 miles I had installed Thermo-Quiet premium semi-metallic asbestos free severe duty brake pads with sound insulators.

    Champion Toyota advised me that there is nothing wrong with my brakes. Took vehicle to independent mechanic and again advised that master cylinder is not operating properly. Went back to Champion Toyota and requested that service manager please go out with me in vehicle to see what I am experiencing and if he says situation is normal I will accept this. Told I do not have vehicle normally serviced at Champion, and that I am a nuisance and that they will not look at the vehicle and not to return to their service department. At that point I did become a nuisance and advised them that should I have to I will take legal action. I have never liked going to this dealer, it is the closest. Took vehicle to another Toyota dealer who road tested the car with me in it and said that the car is stopping OK, but that there may be a problem in that the brake pedal is not what it should be. This dealer's technician also said that the Highlander basically has a Camary break system and it may not be adequate for an SUV. Vehicle to be checked out on Friday, will give follow up.

    Contacted Toyota customer service and related my dissatisfaction with Champion Toyota.

    I have other Toyota products and have never experienced severe problems with them. I do not always use the Toyota dealer network because the vehicles are frequently in New Hampshire and the closest dealer is 250 miles away.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    If you get them to fix it, you'll be the first. I went back and forth with dealers and Toyota, and the bottom line is that's the way the brakes work - soft, can push the pedal to the floor at a standstill, etc.
    Not all HLs do it, but there have been many posts to that effect here.
    Please keep us informed.
  • bangorangbangorang Member Posts: 7
    anybody else getting a vibration in the steering wheel at 65mph? No problems under that #. feels like its moving up and down. Thanks.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    One of the remaining two slots is for the heated side-mirrors defroster switch.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    The middle slot on mine is for rear seat heat (I have the 3rd seat). My far right slot is also blank. I can only surmise that it is for passenger seat ejection if they get too mouthy. Missed getting that option!
  • brightness04brightness04 Member Posts: 3,148
    I can only surmise that it is for passenger seat ejection if they get too mouthy. Missed getting that option!

    Close guess ;-)
    It's the switch for 115V AC power outlet, which is part of the package with rear entertainment system.
  • kittykatkittykat Member Posts: 1
    Recently, started getting odor from vents when in fresh air mode. Seemed to improve when in recirculate mode. Read the message about opening windows in garage at night. Live in Arizona and have always opened windows in garage. Husband thinks a hose or drain might be blocked, but where to look? Any suggestions?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    under the vehicle near the firewall after operating on a hot humid day would indicate no blockage.

    If smell is sort of like old dirty gym socks then the problem is likely mould and mildew in the A/C evaporator.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    Took my Highlander to Faulkner Toyota, Trevose, PA and was told that brakes and master cylinder are operating to manufactures specifications. It is interesting that I requested that the service department please drive the vehicle. Mileage in 29846, mileage out 29846. Sure they drove it.

    I did manage to find a Toyota technical bulletin number TMSNTC01092 which states "Customers may complain of excessive brake noise and increased pedal stroke when applying brakes". Faulkner had no knowledge of this service bulletin. I elevated the brake noise by replacing the front brake pads, put on Thermo-quiet premium semi-metallic asbestos free severe duty brake pads, with sound insulators. The noise is gone. Incedinently Faulkner said that aftermarket brake pads are not of as high quality as Toyota's - Bull Sh--.

    I have gone on the NHTSA line and here are a list of some of the complaints:

    1. The recall work subject to campaign 01V22800 was not performed correctly. The vehicle still has excess pedal travel, and the pedal feel is mushy.

    2. Brakes feel spongy whenever they are applied, no extended braking distance has been noticed.

    3. Brake master cylinder failed prior to recall notice resulting in an accident the dealer denied any brake failure and the vehicle was returned to the consumer, a few weeks later the dealer called the consumer to bring the vehicle back to repair the brakes.

    4. Approximately 3 weeks after my accident I received a recall from Toyota for brake master cylinder. Contacted dealer who immediately denied any brake failure before even checking the vehicle. ***Vehicle is finally ready to be picked up I repeatedly ask if brakes have been checked and fixed. Toyota of Knoxville insists that they have. Four weeks later Toyota of Knoxville calls requesting that I bring the vehicle back because they have not fixed the problem. They assire me once again that the vehicle is safe. I do not trust Toyota of Knoxville to service the vehicle.

    I could go on listing these problems reported by Highlander owners regarding the brake system on the Highlander. I definitely do not trust Toyota or their dealership metwork when it come to the problem that I am experiencing with the brakes on my Highlander.

    DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT A CLASS ACTION SUIT AGAINST TOYOTA PERTAINING TO THE BRAKES ON THE HIGHLANDER. I have been told that there is a suit started and I would certainly like information regarding it.

    Thanks!
  • apbapb Member Posts: 1
    I also get the noise from my sunroof, especially from 30-40 mph (just when I want the sunroof open when I am riding around town) The dealer claims that the deflector will help, but I dont want the expense without a guarantee that it works---did you ever find anything out???
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    I put the deflector on my '04. It makes a big difference, probably cuts the "drumming by 70%. There is still some at arount 30mph though so it is not a cure-all but at least it makes the sunroof usable. And I really use it.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    I had a small paper clip, one end part of which went thru the sidewall of my bridgstone dueler h/T tires - they have only 2000 miles on them 225 70 16 - very slow leak - no structural damage but no one sells tubes anymore so its new tire time. are these sidewalls thin or justbad luck.
    when i tried jacking the HighLander up with my roll under jack it bent over somewhat the side frame rails- is there a roll under rear jack point?
    Thanks
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    See if you can find a tire shop that repairs radial sidewalls. I worked for a Goodyear dealer for a few years and we had special patches and glue for sidewall repairs. A tire couldn't have more than 3 or 5 cords cut (can't remember) if it was to get a sidewall repair, but you likely don't have ANY cords cut. On the other hand, I repaired some of my own off-road tires that had over 20 cords cut and the repairs held as long as the tire tread lasted. It's been about a dozen years since I worked there but I'd find it difficult to believe that nobody repairs sidewall punctures anymore on radials. It was a fairly new 'system' at the time, with special blue glue and you had to align the patch with the tire cord.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    I called 3 places - they ran for the hills when I said sidewall- maybe too many lawyers. iwill call a few more tho.
    They said only 2 plys on the sidewall
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    By cords, I didn't mean plys. Each ply is a belt of fabric consisting of side-by-side cords of material (polyester, nylon, steel or whatever). The belts confine the air pressure, but the cords are what makes up the belt. Most sidewalls are "two ply rated" meaning that they may or may not have two layers of belting, but that they have the strength of two layers of belting.

    Again, I can't imagine that nobody does sidewall repairs anymore, except that by refusing to do so maybe they sell more new tires?
  • thoonthoon Member Posts: 74
    Have any of you HL owners had problems with the rubber gasket of the rear tailgate's trim? A couple months after I bought my HL last year I noticed that in the top left corner, the rubber had been pulled out somehow. I was able to get it replaced under warranty, but just last week it's starting to happen again. There's no way you can pull the rubber out with your fingers unless it's out a little bit, but mine has been pulled out on it's own somehow. The only way I think it's possible is if there's massive air pressure that's trying to escape from behind the trim and it's pushing the rubber out. But the rubber is squished in there pretty tight. Any ideas? I think there might be something wrong with the tailgate. The trim is the part with the Toyota emblem and the keyhole above the rear liscense plate.
  • wbaywbay Member Posts: 34
    Wwest: Could you be a little more specific about your solution of 45mm spacers. I've got an '04 Ltd, AWD V6 and it's pretty much mandatory that I be able to put on chains next winter. Where did you put the spacers, are they stock items or did you make them yourself, etc. Thanks.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The spacers are a commercial item which can be ordered and installed by almost any tire shop.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    owners manual has a picture on two different type chains.
  • bigspender1bigspender1 Member Posts: 4
    A friend of mine called me one day to help him find a leak in his tire. Jacked up the car and pulled off the tire. You would not believe what I found. There was a toothpick sticking out of the sidewall. The tire only had 800 miles on it and Chrysler said they didn't beleive him and would not replace the tire. The sidewall is very weak and you can stick anything sharp in it.
  • wbaywbay Member Posts: 34
    Thanks, I'll query the local tire shop.
  • mccannrmccannr Member Posts: 13
    See the posts on the towing package (if you will be towing)
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    Still not getting any satisfaction from Toyota's service network who state that my Highlander brakes and master cylinder perform to specifications I sought out another independent mechanic who strongly disagrees with Toyota.

    This mechanic states that he has fixed the problem with the Highlander brakes by replacing the master cylinder with a new Toyota master cylinder and then installing GE Silicone brake fluid. The mechanic states that Toyota is aware of the problem with the master cylinder and moisture getting in giving mushy brakes, but isn't doing anything to correct it. The mechanic states that he has done this for a customer and the brakes now work properly. I am going to try and talk with the customer and see their Highlander.

    I am trying to decide whether to spend $215.00 for a brake cylinder that I believe Toyota should replace under warranty and than about another $150.00 for the work.

    Has anyone heard of this or done this to their Highlander?
  • sdanderssdanders Member Posts: 37
    as it is incompatible with DOT3,4 glycol type. Silicone fluid will not absorb water like the glycols, true, but moisture or water will collect in low spots in the brake system and there have been concerns about corrosion being problematic with silicone fluids (designed for special applications and high temperatures). Because it cannot absorb water any moisture in a silicone system will cause a dramatic fall off in performance as the water turns to steam. Glycols are a bit more forgiving although they drop off a bit too. If you mix the two fluids you will have problems as they are not compatible. Silicone fluid is actually MORE compressible than the glycols and is more likely to generate small air bubbles and difficult to bleed. This would actual cause a soft mushy pedal. The use of silicone fluid in this car may well void the warrantee. The brake fluid in any car should be replaced every year or two. Any soft brake feeling should warrant bleeding and replacement of fluid as a potential solution.
  • mitchsmitchs Member Posts: 5
    Studs were used when I installed my "Genuine Toyota Trailer Hitch Receiver". It uses existing threaded holes on the outsides of the frame rails as well as the underside and the studs.
  • mitchsmitchs Member Posts: 5
    Hi Mike7,

    My hitch did not come with the converter box. But with your description, it sounds easy enough to pick one up and install it myself. Thanks for the info.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    Thanks but I have a hitch too - the studs are small and forward of where the hitch goes.
    only onJapanese made HL and RX
  • dmoyerdmoyer Member Posts: 27
    I just experienced this with my 40,000 mile 02 HL. Was on a long trip, cruising on the interstate at 70, had to slow down in a hurry and then the steering/front end vibration. Got my attention!. But later no problem. This same thing was reported by "veekay" Apr/03. Any input by others might help me understand what happened.

    #584 of 1438 STEERING VIBRATION by veekay1 United States of America Apr 01, 2003 (5:07 pm) Mark Reply

    Hi folks!
    This board has been very helpful.
    I am reporting a steering vibration when braking at 65-70mph. This happens intermittently. Front brake pads recently checked were reported "OK". Any other ideas? Anyone else has had the same problem?
    Thanks in advance!
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    The same happened to me a couple of weeks ago. Doing about 70mph and had to brake hard for stopped traffic ahead. The steering wheel had pretty strong vibration, like warped rotors. I pumped the brakes and the vibration decreased significantly. I tried to duplicate the problem later on the highway and it didn't do it again. Not sure what caused it. If the rotors were warped it would vibrate every time you tried to brake hard, but that's not the case. Our Highlander has 36,000 miles on the odo.
  • bigspender1bigspender1 Member Posts: 4
    If you want to get toyota to replace your master cylinder, and you have kids that ride in your car, and toyota is aware of the problem" just write toyota a letter and tell them you will have no choice but to take legal action if you get into an accident. This way you have a paper trail, You will hear from them real soon. Remember folks" A letter is the only way to get them to move. Write the letter from a word processing program like MS office. Make it professional. Make sure you send the letter FedEx or Express mail. Then go to their Web site and type in your tracking # to see if it was delivered, then print the document for your records. Keep us posted. DO NOT USE GE SILICONE BRAKE FLUID. IF YOU DO, SAY GOOD BY TO YOUR WARRANTY.
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