I had the window noise TSB run- no effect!!!!!!!!!!! . they put on new rubber pieces- problem is still when full up, the window pulls away from the inside door rubber at the elbow level. noise comes in. I will take it back again.
I am considering a Sienna or Highlander V6 and wanted to hear from owners of both on their experience. I know the specs say they can tow up to around 3500 LB, but wanted to know if they have any engine or tranny problems over time. Thanks
If you get the tow prep package, you get an engine oil cooler, a transmission oil cooler, a power steering oil cooler, an upgraded radiator, and a 120 watt fan coupling. I would think these would go a long way toward easing any strain on the trans or engine.
I do not know - mine is an 04. In mild weather with heat control on full cold you still get about an 8 degree "add" of temp that is the outside air is heated that much- happens in summer too- ac has to overcome it.
No water control valve tho - they should be but hard to retrofit one as the hoses are between back of engine and the firewall- I put one in an old american car but hoses were easy to get to on the fender inside
My 2003 has same wind problem at drivers side door. My warranty is getting close to running out and I was planning on taking it in to see if they really could fix it. If they couldn't fix your's I doubt they could fix mine.......If you do take yours back to dealer and they resolve it please let us know......... I would really be up set if they screwed up the door panel and made it worse. It may be one of those things I'll have to live with.
odd about the wind noise - the made in Japan cars they say are better made- mine came badly mis aligned (gross front wheel wheel toe in) and with this wind noise. maybe they are slipping in Japan.
So, I've been getting about 18 MPG normally in my '05 Highlander V6 (not-Limited, 2WD).
One reason for the swapping my '99 4Runner for a new Highlander is that I expected slightly better gas mileage (2MPG more or so). I used to get about 19 normally and up to 24/25 highway, even though they were rated at 17C/21H.
Figuring the Highlander, rated at 19/25, I should be able to get over 20 normally. However, that is not the case. Unlike every other car I have ever owned, which I was at (or even above), I am now getting below, the estimated MPG, by a considerable margin, IMHO.
My test: I drove from LA to Palm Springs this past weekend, the trip out there included some around town miles, the 130 miles to Palm Springs and some more town type miles. I filled up just before heading home and I had gotten 20.8MPG. The trip to PS was not at a consistent speed and I would accelerate rapidly at times hit 80-85, as traffic was pretty heavy the entire way. In other words, I would not be surprised to have unexceptional fuel economy.
On my way home I was very cautious, and conscience, of my driving style. I had the cruise on 70 and only rarely would I vary from that. When I did, I made sure to not gun the engine and slowly accelerate. I never got over 75. My moving average (handheld GPS) was 67.7 over the 135mile trip, and I never even turned off my engine during that time, nor was any of it spent standing. In other words, I expect to meet or exceed the estimated MPG. Alas, I was left sulking when I figured out I got only 22.8MPG.
Any thoughts as to reasons for this unexpected, low mileage? Also, how I may increase MPG.
Actually your mileage sounds about right -- V6 owners on this board tend to get 17-21 mpg in mixed city and highway (one or two have reported 16mpg). For highway driving one person posted getting 22mpg driving into the wind, 25mpg driving away from the wind (can't remember if it was a 4cyl or V6).
If I remember correctly there is a section in the owner's manual that gives some tips on how to improve gas mileage, but in my case I was already doing most of them.
Two things to keep in mind on your return trip: You are almost always going against the wind when you are headed back to LA. And, that is one heck of a climb back out of the Coachella Valley. (Indio is 22 ft below sea level) Both of these factors will decrease your mileage on the return trip. Too bad you didn't try the econo run on the way to Palm Springs. I'll bet you would have had a great reading.
The Highlander's shape gives it a less-than-optimal drag coefficient. My best mileage has been on 2-lane highways running 50 to 55 mph. I believe that also is the EPA test speed for highway driving. When I run 70 to 75 mph heading east on the interstate (prevailing wind at my back) this drops the highway mileage by a couple of mpg. Running the same speed heading west drops the mileage by a couple more mpg. I did not experience such variation in highway mileage in the other cars I have owned, all of which were small wagons or sedans. Despite the similar shapes, the Highlander may have greater drag than the 4runner, making it more susceptible to variations due to wind conditions and speed.
When I spoke with the gentleman who previously owned our '03 HL he stated he got 19 city and 24-25 highway on the vehicle. I get about 21 average city mpg.
We purchased used '03 HL and I really like the vehicle. When we purchased the vehicle, the dealership had washed it and whatever they used really beaded up and did not leave waterspots on residual washings. However, after several washings I am getting waterspots. So I am wondering if there is a Toyo carwash product that is available and if so, does it do a good job with minimal waterspots? Or if anyone here can recommend something that works to lessen waterspots and also get the bugs off the front well?? We use the Duragloss carwash now but I am not impressed with it at all.
Also anyone have a bug deflector...do they help a lot with the bugs or just serve to look sporty and nothing more??
Also any recommendations on the best product to use on the leather seating surfaces in the HL? I want to keep them looking good for a long time and keep them soft and supple as well.
Since our HL was purchased used we did not get the perks that you sometimes get with the new purchase like samples of carwash or leather treatments. At least we got some of this stuff when we leased our '96 Avalon, maybe they don't do that anymore, not sure.
Thanks, I have found these forums to be very helpful for info on the HL, both before and after purchase.
I appreciate the quick replies, thank yous for your thoughts. I'll keep it in mind next time I'm on a longer trip.
On the same subject, I've heard rumors, which I believe to be unfounded and this is slightly outside the realm of this board, but... does cruise control decrease MPG? I can't imagine how it could, but that's the rumor/myth I heard. I'm wondering if it's only relevant when going uphill as the car will downshift (using more gas) to keep the speed up.
Toyota put out a Technical Service Bulletin in Jan 10 2005 describing the problem with the multi-display. There is a revised multi-display available to resolve the problem. Should be covered under warranty if standard warranty is still in effect.
In our house are 2 'suv's'. An 04 Subaru Forester M/T and an 04 Highlander V6 4wd. Both exhibit the same characteristics when it comes to fuel mileage. Best on both is observed at 55-60 mph. 65 mph drops some. 70 and above they both fall off quickly. Forester at 65 gets 31-32 mpg. Going up to 70 drops it to 27-28. I travel in this vehicle a lot and have observed this regularly over the last 2 yrs. Best was 34 mpg on 2 lane roads with speeds of 50-55. Highlander exhibits much the same. Haven't had the 2 lane 50-55 extended trip in that yet. But setting the cruise just below 65 gets us 24 mpg. My wife is usually driving. I tend to set it above 65 and bump it up as I want to pass and end up running it at 70. She scoff's and teases me when we fillup. She WINS ....I get 19-21 mpg. End of my $.02.
I think you on target with the uphill downshifting causing a decrease in mpg with cruise control. We have an '03 AWD Matrix and the '04 4-cylinder Highlander, and with both I will turn off the cruise control in hilly terrain because it doesn't downshift as often with my foot on the gas pedal. Of course, this wasn't a factor when I drove a car with manual transmission!
Other than that, it has been my experience that factory-installed cruise control does not eat into gas mileage. Besides the current vehicles, my experience with factory-installed cruise has been with an '88 Renault Medallion station wagon and a '94 Toyota Corolla wagon, both with manual transmission. But the two cars I have had with dealer-added cruise -- an '89 Nissan Sentra AWD wagon and an '87 Chevy Nova aka California-built Corolla -- got much worse gas mileage when using cruise control than when not using it. An old high school buddy of mine has experienced the same thing with Hondas, Acuras, and Subarus.
Over the years I have looked at vehicles at a half-dozen or more Toyota dealerships in 3 different states, and I have never had a dealer tell me they could install an after-market cruise control on a newly purchased vehicle. (Okay, I did have a salesman tell me once that they could, but it turned out he was mistaken.) I think Toyota figured out long ago that you get high-quality cruise control only when it comes from the factory.
I had a dealer tell me that they could/would add after market cruise control for me. However, they admitted they sent the car to a another garage to have the work done. I asked what garage and when they told me, I called them directly which of course saved the dealer markup.
For the leather, I think Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner (2 separate bottles) is very good. There are lots of leather treatments but Lexol is used by tack shops as well. I have used it for years and it is excellant. If you have never cleaned the leather since new, get both as you will need to use the Cleaner first. Should be less than $10 each.
As to washing and water beading - a good wax application every 6 months (or more often) really helps. Have you every waxed the HL? (and I don't mean those spray on waxes at car washes which are useless).
I wouldn't be surprised that cruise control would decrease mileage for some people.
If you are like my wife and think that the gas pedal is an on/off switch and are constantly speeding up and then braking when you overtake the care ahead or like to get the zoom-zoom-zoom feeling when driving, cruise control would increase mileage because it would smooth out this inefficient behaviour.
However, if you are a smooth driver, plan your traffic openings and don't do a lot of acceleration, I think that cruise control would decrease mileage. Primarily it would be because there is a relatively narrow speed threshold for the cruise control and when you drop below this, the cruise control quickly works to get back to the set speed. This is most obvious when going up hills. If you feel the pedal when going up hills you will see that the pedal is depressed a lot to keep up to the set speed. If you were driving yourself you would probably just keep your foot at the same position and would not care that the car slowed a few miles per hour until you reached the crest. When I use the cruise control I typically disengage it when doing longish or steep hill climbs and take over manually and then resume when I reach the top.
If you rely on cruise control to climb hills, it will definitely decrease your MPG. First of all, it doesn't usually choose to downshift quickly enough (doesn't give you enough head start for the hill) and also might not choose a low enough gear because of the throttle opening it chooses.
Basically, you are a lot smarter than your cruise control.
I was waiting to go into the garage to refresh my memory as to the name of the leather cleaner and conditioner I use but luckily rbleland replied -- I use Lexol too. (Thanks rbleland for saving me a trip into the garage!) It's a very popular brand, supposed to be really good for leather, and I'm completely satisfied with it. Now some die-hards who are totally into preserving leather say there are way better brands than Lexol, but these are guys who detail their cars for auto shows. A book I read on automotive detailing said when cleaning leather, treat it gently as you would your own skin -- don't use abrasive brushes or anything; I use a face cloth.
As for wax there's generally a trade-off between longevity and shine -- the really nice-looking shiny waxes will wear away after fewer washings than a less-shiny wax. Consumer Reports rated waxes a few years ago; unfortunately my back-issues of Consumer Reports are in my garage too. Basically the best shiny wax if I recall correctly was something like "NuTone" or "Nu" something; it comes in a blue bottle, while the longest lasting was one of the Turtle waxes; both are paste waxes that you apply with the supplied applicator and then buff-off; also, I think I singled these two out because my HL has black in it (two-toned) and certain waxes are less abrasive than others, which is important in a black vehicle as they will show scratches over time more readily. It would be ideal if you could dig up that issue of CR. Once again detailing enthusiasts will tell you there are way better waxes than NuTone for shine. I doubt there's a Toyota-brand wax; they probably have professional detailers that do this stuff for a living and use their favorite wax.
I believe there's a forum in edmunds.com that discusses auto detailing with debates over waxes, leather cleaners, etc.
I have the bug deflector and it seems to function very well as such, although I havn't taken any long trips yet. Use bug and tar remover from your favorite auto store (comes in a bottle); buy a sponge with nylon netting over it for this.
Since our HL was purchased used we did not get the perks that you sometimes get with the new purchase like samples of carwash or leather treatments. At least we got some of this stuff when we leased our '96 Avalon, maybe they don't do that anymore, not sure.
I didn't get any samples when I bought my HL new back in '01.
My 2004 highlander started clicking when I steered it to the right. Then it started when I turned to the let. It mostly did this when i was accelerating or with my foot off the gas going slowly. I brought it to Toyota and the technician immediately looked under the dash, like he had seenthis problem before and found grease leaking. He said I needed a new steering column and they had to order it. I asked if this was a problem that they had seen and the tech guy acted very quiet, like he didn't want to discuss but merely said, it happens. If you find a TSB let me know please.
My wife has had the accelerator stick on her 2001 Highlander twice within the past year. Has anyone else had this problem or heard of it being reported?
My girlfriend has a 2004 Highlander. A month ago, her ABS and VSC lights came on. She took the car to the dealership and the car came back with the lights off.
A week later, she was in a rear-end accident (she isn't a tailgater) and swore that the ABS failed.
After $6000 in repairs, she got the car back and a week later the ABS, VSC lights once again came on. Yesterday I followed her to the dealership to deal with the lights. Seems there is a vacuum line that is easily dislodged and when it is off, the lights will come on and the ABS system is disabled. The first time, the detached hose was found after the car had been in for regular servicing and this last time, she took the car in to be checked out after getting it back from the body shop. Word to the wise.
After 30K service visit to dealer today, noticed on drive home that the inside temperature setting on LCD display is blank...all other info selectors (outside temp, avg. mpg, trasnit time, etc.), all show up normally. Is there a way for me to reset/fix or do I need to return to dealer (who had already closed when this was noticed). Appreciate any advice.
I have a 2002 Highlander. For a couple of months now there has been a crackling noise coming from the driver's seat belt attachment by the center console. At first I thought it was coming from the actual seat, but when I remove my seat belt the noise goes away. I just tried to get it checked out at the dealer but they could not replicate this noise. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any suggestions on what it might be? Thanks.
I have a 2002 Limited, I've not noticed any type of noise. Does the noise occur while you're connecting the lap belt, disconnecting, while your driving (like something is rattling inside)??
It only occurs when I'm driving, not connecting or disconnecting the belt. Also, it usually takes 5-10 min. for the noise to appear, and when it is making the noise, it is most noticeable when I'm stopping or going over bumps (which is when the seat belt is restraining me and I'm putting tension on the seat belt).
I own a 2004 Highlander V6 AWD, my wife had the accelerator stuck all the way to the floor this morning on her way to work. I test drove her car and sure enough, it did it again. The Highlander is at the dealership as I speak, I'm waiting to hear from them as this is a very freaky experience. Take your car to the dealer, this could be a major safety hazard at high speed on the freeway for example.
Hah! Been there myself only it was the clutch. Press the clutch in and it wouldn't come back up. Took it directly to the dealer and turned out to be an aftermarket floor mat I installed catching. I felt like such a fool.
I have a 2001 6cyl toyota highlander. It has an intemitent starting problem. Toyota couldn't figure it out, but charged us a bundle, nor my mechanic. On random occassions, sometimes, weeks or months it decides not to start, the engine turns. its like no fuel or spark. I thought it may be related to the security system, We tried staring it one night, (stuck at the store,) would not fire up, AAA came,he thought it may be the fuel pump and hammered on the gas tank, still no go. Towed it to my mechanic, stayed there overnight. He said it started right up the next day for him ??? He kept the car for a week and never found a problem. it just kept starting fine. Has Anybody had this problem with theirs and maybe a solution?, its driving us nuts !!! In fact it wouldn't start again today, We're in So. Cal...Thanks
"It only occurs when I'm driving, not connecting or disconnecting the belt. Also, it usually takes 5-10 min. for the noise to appear, and when it is making the noise, it is most noticeable when I'm stopping or going over bumps (which is when the seat belt is restraining me and I'm putting tension on the seat belt)."
Have you closely examined the plastic at the lap belt connection point? I'm wondering if there are cracks that open/close when tension is applied? Have you eliminated ALL other possibilities such as: empty everything out of the center console, be sure there is nothing under your seat that might be telegraphing noise up the side of the console. That's all I can think of at the moment.
We just recently bought a 2005 highlander but for a few months now we have randomly been hearing a very slight screeching/whinny noise which can only be heard when trying to accelerate between 0-10mph and at 1 rpm everytime we take it to the dealer, the problem would not replicate(typical) and it is not all the time it is very random but we notice it mostly during accelerating bet.0-10mph and at 1 rpm is there anybody out there who had the same problem or have any idea what might be causing it. Its really frustrating trying to figure out what is causing the problem. HELP!
I recently bought a 2004 6cyl AWD highlander. The previous owner didn't leave the manual and the dealership doesn't have one either. Just this weekend my "maintenance required" light came on. We just recently had an oil change so everything should be okay on that end. Does anyone know what this is referring to? Thanks for you help.
Sounds very much like a vee belt that is slipping a little. Sometimes they do it if they get wet and they get really noisy when worn out. The answer may be to get a new belt and make sure the pulleys are clean and dry when installing it.
Can someone tell me where the switch is located? According to owner's manual it is left of the tilt steering lock on the bottom half of the dashboard. I do not see anything. Is it on the inside of the dashboard? Do I have to remove the bottom panel? Help!!!
The problem may be simply that the people who changed the oil didn't reset the light. Someone posted the directions for resetting the light back in post 2776. I believe the light is supposed to flash for a period of time when the car is started 4500 miles after it has been reset, and then after 5000 miles it stays on permanently.
When pressing on the brake pedal, it squeaks a little . The sound is coming from the inside not outside (under the dash) The squeak is heard more when engine is on, but not moving and brake pedal depressed or when applying brake when shifting gear. Brake works fine. Does anyone experience or know what's the cause of this?
I took it in for service, and was initially told they couldn't hear what I'm hearing until I had the manager get in the passenger side and close all doors while I pressed on the brake pedal. He said it was normal, but i insisted it wasn't doing that before. So he had the technician listen who claimed he wasnt hearing it either, but suggested to replace the brake booster anyway. A friend and my brother can hear the slight squeaking. (what is this power brake booster do?) The part is on order. It's an 05 highlander with 2,000 miles on it. Any input is welcome
You probably have a slight leak internally, within, of the ABS/VSC pumpmotor system and what you are likely hearing is the pumpmotor running to continuously replenish the brake fluid pressure.
I HAVE THE ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION I'm guessing that you didn't change your oil at the dealership. Every Toyota is programmed for every 5000 miles a MAINTENCE REQUIRED Light comes up to reminde you to change your oil. The only way that light will go away is if you change your oil at the delearship. Please respond so I know that you read this.
"The only way that light will go away is if you change your oil at the delears"
HUH? From an earlier post on these boards:
"After reading thru the Service Manual I came across the proceedure to reset this. (keep in mind, it starts the counter again to flash at 4.5K then come on solid again at 5K FROM the mileage it is reset from). With the key in the ON/RUN position, push the odometer button until ODO is displayed. Turn the key to OFF Push and Hold the odometer button while turning the key to the ON/RUN position. Hold for 5 seconds......Counter now reset to warn at the next 4.5k interval and come on solid 5k from now. Hope this info helps other 'shade tree' mechanics."
Comments
Regards,
Ken
. they put on new rubber pieces- problem is still when full up, the window pulls away from the inside door rubber at the elbow level. noise comes in.
I will take it back again.
Thanks
In mild weather with heat control on full cold you still get about an 8 degree "add" of temp that is the outside air is heated that much- happens in summer too- ac has to overcome it.
No water control valve tho - they should be but hard to retrofit one as the hoses are between back of engine and the firewall- I put one in an old american car but hoses were easy to get to on the fender inside
If they couldn't fix your's I doubt they could fix mine.......If you do take yours back to dealer and they resolve it please let us know.........
I would really be up set if they screwed up the door panel and made it worse. It may be one of those things I'll have to live with.
mine came badly mis aligned (gross front wheel wheel toe in) and with this wind noise.
maybe they are slipping in Japan.
One reason for the swapping my '99 4Runner for a new Highlander is that I expected slightly better gas mileage (2MPG more or so). I used to get about 19 normally and up to 24/25 highway, even though they were rated at 17C/21H.
Figuring the Highlander, rated at 19/25, I should be able to get over 20 normally. However, that is not the case. Unlike every other car I have ever owned, which I was at (or even above), I am now getting below, the estimated MPG, by a considerable margin, IMHO.
My test:
I drove from LA to Palm Springs this past weekend, the trip out there included some around town miles, the 130 miles to Palm Springs and some more town type miles. I filled up just before heading home and I had gotten 20.8MPG. The trip to PS was not at a consistent speed and I would accelerate rapidly at times hit 80-85, as traffic was pretty heavy the entire way. In other words, I would not be surprised to have unexceptional fuel economy.
On my way home I was very cautious, and conscience, of my driving style. I had the cruise on 70 and only rarely would I vary from that. When I did, I made sure to not gun the engine and slowly accelerate. I never got over 75. My moving average (handheld GPS) was 67.7 over the 135mile trip, and I never even turned off my engine during that time, nor was any of it spent standing. In other words, I expect to meet or exceed the estimated MPG. Alas, I was left sulking when I figured out I got only 22.8MPG.
Any thoughts as to reasons for this unexpected, low mileage? Also, how I may increase MPG.
Thanks,
brian
If I remember correctly there is a section in the owner's manual that gives some tips on how to improve gas mileage, but in my case I was already doing most of them.
Also anyone have a bug deflector...do they help a lot with the bugs or just serve to look sporty and nothing more??
Also any recommendations on the best product to use on the leather seating surfaces in the HL? I want to keep them looking good for a long time and keep them soft and supple as well.
Since our HL was purchased used we did not get the perks that you sometimes get with the new purchase like samples of carwash or leather treatments. At least we got some of this stuff when we leased our '96 Avalon, maybe they don't do that anymore, not sure.
Thanks, I have found these forums to be very helpful for info on the HL, both before and after purchase.
On the same subject, I've heard rumors, which I believe to be unfounded and this is slightly outside the realm of this board, but... does cruise control decrease MPG? I can't imagine how it could, but that's the rumor/myth I heard. I'm wondering if it's only relevant when going uphill as the car will downshift (using more gas) to keep the speed up.
Thanks again,
brian
Forester at 65 gets 31-32 mpg. Going up to 70 drops it to 27-28. I travel in this vehicle a lot and have observed this regularly over the last 2 yrs. Best was 34 mpg on 2 lane roads with speeds of 50-55.
Highlander exhibits much the same. Haven't had the 2 lane 50-55 extended trip in that yet. But setting the cruise just below 65 gets us 24 mpg. My wife is usually driving. I tend to set it above 65 and bump it up as I want to pass and end up running it at 70. She scoff's and teases me when we fillup. She WINS ....I get 19-21 mpg. End of my $.02.
Other than that, it has been my experience that factory-installed cruise control does not eat into gas mileage. Besides the current vehicles, my experience with factory-installed cruise has been with an '88 Renault Medallion station wagon and a '94 Toyota Corolla wagon, both with manual transmission. But the two cars I have had with dealer-added cruise -- an '89 Nissan Sentra AWD wagon and an '87 Chevy Nova aka California-built Corolla -- got much worse gas mileage when using cruise control than when not using it. An old high school buddy of mine has experienced the same thing with Hondas, Acuras, and Subarus.
Over the years I have looked at vehicles at a half-dozen or more Toyota dealerships in 3 different states, and I have never had a dealer tell me they could install an after-market cruise control on a newly purchased vehicle. (Okay, I did have a salesman tell me once that they could, but it turned out he was mistaken.) I think Toyota figured out long ago that you get high-quality cruise control only when it comes from the factory.
As to washing and water beading - a good wax application every 6 months (or more often) really helps. Have you every waxed the HL? (and I don't mean those spray on waxes at car washes which are useless).
If you are like my wife and think that the gas pedal is an on/off switch and are constantly speeding up and then braking when you overtake the care ahead or like to get the zoom-zoom-zoom feeling when driving, cruise control would increase mileage because it would smooth out this inefficient behaviour.
However, if you are a smooth driver, plan your traffic openings and don't do a lot of acceleration, I think that cruise control would decrease mileage. Primarily it would be because there is a relatively narrow speed threshold for the cruise control and when you drop below this, the cruise control quickly works to get back to the set speed. This is most obvious when going up hills. If you feel the pedal when going up hills you will see that the pedal is depressed a lot to keep up to the set speed. If you were driving yourself you would probably just keep your foot at the same position and would not care that the car slowed a few miles per hour until you reached the crest. When I use the cruise control I typically disengage it when doing longish or steep hill climbs and take over manually and then resume when I reach the top.
Basically, you are a lot smarter than your cruise control.
As for wax there's generally a trade-off between longevity and shine -- the really nice-looking shiny waxes will wear away after fewer washings than a less-shiny wax. Consumer Reports rated waxes a few years ago; unfortunately my back-issues of Consumer Reports are in my garage too. Basically the best shiny wax if I recall correctly was something like "NuTone" or "Nu" something; it comes in a blue bottle, while the longest lasting was one of the Turtle waxes; both are paste waxes that you apply with the supplied applicator and then buff-off; also, I think I singled these two out because my HL has black in it (two-toned) and certain waxes are less abrasive than others, which is important in a black vehicle as they will show scratches over time more readily. It would be ideal if you could dig up that issue of CR. Once again detailing enthusiasts will tell you there are way better waxes than NuTone for shine. I doubt there's a Toyota-brand wax; they probably have professional detailers that do this stuff for a living and use their favorite wax.
I believe there's a forum in edmunds.com that discusses auto detailing with debates over waxes, leather cleaners, etc.
I have the bug deflector and it seems to function very well as such, although I havn't taken any long trips yet. Use bug and tar remover from your favorite auto store (comes in a bottle); buy a sponge with nylon netting over it for this.
Since our HL was purchased used we did not get the perks that you sometimes get with the new purchase like samples of carwash or leather treatments. At least we got some of this stuff when we leased our '96 Avalon, maybe they don't do that anymore, not sure.
I didn't get any samples when I bought my HL new back in '01.
A week later, she was in a rear-end accident (she isn't a tailgater) and swore that the ABS failed.
After $6000 in repairs, she got the car back and a week later the ABS, VSC lights once again came on.
Yesterday I followed her to the dealership to deal with the lights. Seems there is a vacuum line that is easily dislodged and when it is off, the lights will come on and the ABS system is disabled.
The first time, the detached hose was found after the car had been in for regular servicing and this last time, she took the car in to be checked out after getting it back from the body shop.
Word to the wise.
Let us know.
Best regards, Philip
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Been there.
it decides not to start, the engine turns. its like no fuel or spark. I thought it may be related to the security
system, We tried staring it one night, (stuck at the store,) would not fire up, AAA came,he thought it may be the fuel pump and hammered on the gas tank, still no go. Towed it to my mechanic, stayed there overnight. He said it started right up the next day for him ??? He kept the car for a week and never found a problem. it just kept starting fine. Has Anybody had this problem with theirs and maybe a solution?, its driving us nuts !!! In fact it wouldn't start again today, We're in So. Cal...Thanks
Have you closely examined the plastic at the lap belt connection point? I'm wondering if there are cracks that open/close when tension is applied? Have you eliminated ALL other possibilities such as: empty everything out of the center console, be sure there is nothing under your seat that might be telegraphing noise up the side of the console. That's all I can think of at the moment.
Best regards, Philip
I took it in for service, and was initially told they couldn't hear what I'm hearing until I had the manager get in the passenger side and close all doors while I pressed on the brake pedal. He said it was normal, but i insisted it wasn't doing that before. So he had the technician listen who claimed he wasnt hearing it either, but suggested to replace the brake booster anyway. A friend and my brother can hear the slight squeaking. (what is this power brake booster do?) The part is on order. It's an 05 highlander with 2,000 miles on it. Any input is welcome
I'm guessing that you didn't change your oil at the dealership. Every Toyota is programmed for every 5000 miles a MAINTENCE REQUIRED Light comes up to reminde you to change your oil. The only way that light will go away is if you change your oil at the delearship. Please respond so I know that you read this.
HUH? From an earlier post on these boards:
"After reading thru the Service Manual I came across the proceedure to reset this. (keep in mind, it starts the counter again to flash at 4.5K then come on solid again at 5K FROM the mileage it is reset from).
With the key in the ON/RUN position, push the odometer button until ODO is displayed.
Turn the key to OFF
Push and Hold the odometer button while turning the key to the ON/RUN position.
Hold for 5 seconds......Counter now reset to warn at the next 4.5k interval and come on solid 5k from now.
Hope this info helps other 'shade tree' mechanics."