Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    hondas for example typically have an "eye hook" on their driver-side floor mats that prevent forward movement of the mat towards the pedals. i don't know about toyotas.

    i don't think a mat would have to be on top of the accelerator to cause the problem, because alternatively, it could bind up (perhaps be rolled up) underneath the end of the pedal.

    this issue of hesitation has been a bit of a hot-potato with owners of Highlanders, Camrys, Avalons and even certain model Lexus vehicles.

    posts in other toyota model forums (and specifically on forums related to engine hesitation or shifting delay) suggests that for some drivers, placing more of their foot on the accelerator (in otherwords adjusting your foot position, *specially if one tends to be more of a toe-tip driver*) has mitigated the hesitation to a more or lesser extent.

    this suggests to me (and i'm not an automotive design expert but i am an electrical control systems engineer) that toyota has been installing accelerator pedal assemblies in various vehicles they manufacture that have too much mechanical compliance (loosely referred to as "slopp") or perhaps even stiction (a hesitation to move freely in part of its range), or some non-linearity (part of the range of the mechanical movement and/or sensing is effectively "dead" ie it's output not gradually increasing/decreasing with corresponding motion).

    Are you still with me?...

    Compliance, stiction, non-linearity in the pedal assembly, such that when you apply a certain amount of force in a certain direction on / to the accelerator pedal, it may or may not get registered by the electrical sensor and the engine control unit (ECU) as an adequate change in pedal position for the system to respond predictably or repeatibly leading to operability concerns.

    Applying additional force then results in a change that results in eventual response by the system (perhaps influenced by software programming)... ultimately there is a "non-linear" response by the system (like a step-change, rather than a gently increasing response).

    Yes, people have complained of making a left turn to cross traffic, they apply pedal force, nothing happens for an appreciable delay, and then they take off.

    Numerous people have debated this issue in these forums (including myself), and many people have complained to the manufacturer and have logged the issue on the NHTSA web-site.

    The debates have devolved sometimes either into technical minutia which have lost people, or accusitory claims of motivation (i.e. do you work for toyota or a competitor, or do you have some desire to ruin some manufacturer's reputation for example), and a few forums have been shut down by the hosts for going too far astray from a position of civility or for failing to stay on topic; both which are predicates for exchange of information, ideas, opinion in edmund's forums by the guidelines of same.

    So while some people have only experienced an annoying delay, and some none at all, anecdotally some have reported a rather significant hesitation, perhaps predictable, perhaps unpredictable... for them it has had an effect on their sense of safety while driving their vehicles.

    Some of these people have gotten the manufacturer to buy-back their vehicles, some have been offered incentives to get into another model, and some have gone to arbitration and lost, ending up selling their vehicles to get out of them, or have continued to stay in their vehicles waiting for the manufacturer to adequately address their concerns.

    Again, some have no issue at all, some only a minor issue, and some claim it to be significant.

    What I have described may or may not be at root cause of what you are reporting as an lack of adequate control event.

    I suggest additional research on the matter.

    I hope this helps you.
  • kam108kam108 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for taking the time to respond. Some of it's over my head, but I basicly understand. You are correct about some people feeling there's a safety issue. That would be me. Unless they can correct or find the cause of the problem, I'm never driving the car again. I'm too afraid of the same thing happening again. Thanks again.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    i don't think the computer controls the brake;

    I'm pretty sure it doesn't as well.

    Was a little surprised that hitting the brake didn't stop the car; I assumed the brake always had the dominant influence compared with the gas. But I suppose with enough gas, especially if it's in first gear...

    if your highlander has a throttle by wire (or drive-by-wire) design

    My understanding is all '04 and later HLs are drive-by-wire.

    When I first bought my HL, I would have issues with slowing down, making a turn, and then followed by a severe hesitation

    I think it is extremely important to relate this to the dealer. As user777 attests certain HL's (as reported on these boards and acknowledged by dealers) have a problem with engine hesitation (due to a flawed computer algorithm for coordinating throttle and transmission control if I'm not mistaken). This could indeed be related to the phenomenon that caused your accident.

    According to more recent posts on these boards Toyota has a fix for the hesitation problem and you should be able to go to the dealer and have them perform it (involves downloading new firmware; takes an hour or two).
  • kam108kam108 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the fix info. Maybe there is hope I can keep this car. As far as the brake not working, there was just way too much gas(it roared) to stop it in time. I was in a parking situation-had just pulled off road behind truck, removed foot from gas, and then put foot on brake. I'm not sure if the acceleration began when I put my foot on brake or before. But I am absolutely certain my foot was on brake and not on gas. Hypothetically, if I had had my foot on the gas, my HL doesn't rev up like that-it roared like I was in neutral giving it full throttle.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    In the past ~ten years I have had two instances wherein the engine "ROARED" to life just as I applied the brakes.

    Both were the result of having the carpet mat laying over the accelerator pedal but behind the brake pedal.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    There is some computer control over the brakes. If one steps hard there will be extra effort applied as the it senses you want to stop faster, think it's called electronic brake force distribution. V6 engines have the drive by wire and 5 speed tranny hesitation problems noted here, 4 cyl engines have standard cable throttle and 4 speed tranny which does not have the hesitation.
  • underthewillowunderthewillow Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your suggestions....I have only listened to the cassette once but have listened extensively to the CD changer and have not heard the intermittent muddy bass except for on the radio....yes, the first thing I checked was to be sure it was on all radio stations, I'm currently trying to figure out if it has anything to do with the RDS, some stations have that and some don't....also, it doesn't do it while I'm driving out in the country, only in a city or suburban setting....I'm beginning to think it has something to do with the in glass side mounted diversity antenna....I'll have the Mr. see if there are any loose connections to the amps etc.
  • underthewillowunderthewillow Member Posts: 4
    Good to know I'm not the only one but sorry to hear you're having the problem as well....have you noticed that it doesn't do it with the engine off?
  • nomorebenznomorebenz Member Posts: 109
    Others have this muddy bass problem. I've been following the discussions here and on other forums. I have the '06 Hybrid with the Nav system.
    I've noticed it at low speeds and low volume. It happened once while parked but I'm not sure if the engine had turned itself off or not.
    Anyone know if there are relays or something on the amp that could be causing this ?
  • underthewillowunderthewillow Member Posts: 4
    yes, that's another factor, low volume, I only seem to really notice it at a low volume....now come to think of it the low speed may be another factor because I don't think I'm noticing it when on the interstate, hmmm.
  • kam108kam108 Member Posts: 16
    This will be my last post on my acceleration/surging accident, and my hesitation issues. Just wanted to post the Toyota Corporation's response to my problem.

    1. They can't investigate because I've already had repairs started on my HL. Note: I did immediately bring it to my Toyota service dept to have them check it.

    2. Toyota says there's no reports of surging problems with the HL. I mentioned several posts I've seen on the internet about hesitation/surging instances, including complaints to NTHSA. I was told complaints aren't the same as reports, and that NHTSA investigated the complaints, and found no substantial evidence to make a REPORT of the issue. I was also told that anyone can get on the internet and complain.

    3. I was told that the "fix" mentioned by NTHSA is a reprogramming of the ECM, which just resets the computer.

    4. I mentioned an instance I'm aware of where someone purchased a Honda CRV and had surging problems. They took it to the dealer, and their CRV was replaced, no questions asked. I was told that they're Toyota, not Honda.

    I'm to turn iformation in to their claims dept., but it sounds like Toyota is not about to admit they have any problems with their vehicles. I am selling/trading my HL as soon as the repairs are finished, and will never buy from Toyota again!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Where are you in PA and do you have an idea of how much you will want for your HL. If the hesitation is REALLY persistent I might be interested in buying for experimenation, looking for cause/solution.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Thanks for sharing this with us -- your experience with Toyota seems to be along the same lines as that of other poster's (although I believe one or two had a positive experience with them).

    This will certainly help others make an informed decision.
  • mcmmcm Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Limited V6 4wd with 55K miles on it but have recently developed a noise that sounds like the muffler or other exhaust system component has a hole in it. Upon my own inspection, I can't see anything obvious but it's noticable enough where I can hear it with the driver's window lowered. Sounds like it's coming from around the cat. converter area but no holes etc. Also, the idle has started to drop dangerously low especially after slowing from highway speeds (like at the end of an off ramp) Any hints or ideas?
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    I don't know what is wrong with your car. The only advice I can offer is to take it to the dealer, or maybe a mechanic if you prefer.
  • vrmvrm Member Posts: 310
    Yesterday, I bought a 2004 FWD,V4, HL with 22,000 miles.

    Today, the "VSC" + "Check" + "TPMS" indicator lit up on my dash.

    TPMS - I checked all four tires (cold) - pressure was 30 PSI. This matches the Toyota guideline posted on the driver door jamb.

    VSC- This light was on for most of the day. Then mysteriously the indicator shut off. I am happy to see it go away but am uneasy about what could be wrong.

    Check- I have no idea about this. Is this a Maint. reminder light?

    I called the Seller. He said he has seen the VSC light come on in the past. He never took it to the dealer.

    Is this a known problem? My vehicle is under warranty but I would like to know if others have seen this problem.
    Thanks!
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Since it's under warranty, have it checked out. All warning lights should light during startup and then go out. Your engine is I4,not V4.
  • ebs3ebs3 Member Posts: 3
    I had the VSC light problem with my 04 HL since Feb at 17K. I finally got a Toyota technician who went beyond he computer diagnostics. They had to replace the steering angle sensor which is "very sensitive" and highly affected by static electricity (mine kept going off when I filled my gas tank which generates static). I also was told that the car has to be in perfect alignment (even .5 degree can make a difference) or the sensor can go off. Good luck!
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    Maybe the check lights means one of your lights are burnt out? Take it to the dealer.
  • psnead69psnead69 Member Posts: 1
    Experiencing the same problem. Just started about 2 months ago with 22,000 miles. Dealer not very encouraging. Only been to the dealer once, but suggested the same things as what you said. They cleaned out "carbon buildup", but still ping/rattles etc. as well as blows out smoke. Going back in to get the catalack converter, don't think that is going to help. If it doesn't clear up with this I am contacting Toyota! This car is practically brand new!
  • bikerjohnbikerjohn Member Posts: 52
    If you have torn front mud guards, there are silver ones on ebay. 1 set of fronts & a set of all fours.
  • backtolifebacktolife Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Highlander V6 4wd for 3 weeks.
    I notice some strut or suspension type knocking when going over residential speed bumps at approximately 20 mph.

    I also notice this knocking sound when I am driving on some uneven roads at normal city speeds or leaving work from an unpaved lot to the sidewalk & then the paved road.
    Sometimes when I am turning right & braking, I also notice this knocking sound.

    If this is the same problem as what others are experiencing, can any damage to the vehicle be caused by this knocking or is it just an annoying characteristic of the Highlander?

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • jeepcreeperjeepcreeper Member Posts: 18
    I think Toyota is in a slow descent. Toyota reliability cannot be as good as perceived in the minds of the pulbic. I have read countless professional reviews on most models during the last couple of years, and time and again the reviewer will blanket Toyota with praise about their reliability. Perhaps Toyota is getting too big for their britches? If something goes wrong with my Jeep (or GM or Ford for that matter) it's supposed to be expected- but the reality is that all the manufacturers are improving their reliability. Look at Hyundai, look at initial quality studies that puts some GM cars at the top of the list. Good for Toyota in leading the way for awhile, but the others are catching up and the reflection in the reaview mirror is starting to look different.
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    This may be the same sound it took me a few months to find in my wife's 04. Turned out to be the Hood Support Strut. It was bouncing during bumps against the radiator overflow return hose. I took a thick piece of foam (about 1/2" thick used for pickup truck cap sealing), and stuck it to the washer bottle filler. This holds the rod steady and the noise is gone. In Oct 03 after 3 visits, the dealer was unable to reproduce or fix it, so I did.
    Re: post on quality, Toyota has slipped, in my mind, and their servicing dealers are becoming as arrogant as other dealers. It USED to be a pleasure to go and get things fixed properly the first time. No longer.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    the basic cars are still good- the dealers have too much business and are at time horrible
  • kbondarkbondar Member Posts: 17
    "I think Toyota is in a slow descent"
    Then how do we account for today's Associated Press lead article entitled "Toyota's Sales Soar In U.S."??
    Some descent!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    A few years ago I thought I saw a news article wherein Toyota intended to begin raising their MSRP price levels in order to "give" GM and Ford their fair share of the US market in the eyes of {patriotic, RED staters} US consumers.

    Perhaps that didn't work out for some reason so they decided to lower their quality and reliability instead.

    I seem to remember that months before Eastern Airlines finally went "under" they were rated up there with the BEST. Not that Eastern had gotten any better but the rest of the industry had declined to their level.

    In any case you'd have to be living in a cave not to notice the difference in the Toyota/Lexus product line with regards quality and reliability.

    And yes, sales levels are still climbing, "word of mouth" mental inertia is very hard to overcome. People who do not read or read but do not comprehend, do not readily notice situational changes rapidly, as should be obvious given our illustrious leader of the moment.
  • kbondarkbondar Member Posts: 17
    ".....notice the difference in the Toyota/Lexus product line with regards quality and reliability."
    I strongly disagree. Cave or no cave, there is no difference that I can see, and I'm not a supporter of Toyota one way or the other. As far as I'm concerned, they make a good product, that's all. Others are doing well in that regard too.
    I haven't seen any documentation to support such conjecture, so I'll just have to contribute it to a personal dislike of that particular automaker. Truly, there is little or no factual basis to draw such a conclusion.
    I will, however, agree that other manufactures are doing a much better job of quality and reliability, and many have closed the gap significantly. I think Toyota is now getting a good run for the money from the competition.
  • jeepcreeperjeepcreeper Member Posts: 18
    I wasn't talking about Toyota sales. Rather,quality, which shows itself as reliability. And as quality changes, so go the amount of vehicles sold, lagging by years mostly. Perhaps Toyota is reaching a peak and other manufg. are slowly catching up with their concerted efforts to improve their own reliability? Anyway, I think the field is narrowing, which will benifit car buyers.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Look at the Toyota forum here (Edmunds) under " 07 Toyota Camry Woes" . The 6 speed tranny problems the Camry are having in the 07 V6. Same with the Rav4 and the Highlander for other problems..
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    w.r.t. the number and extent of issues = they may not be as unique as they once were.

    toyota seems to be using a lot of common parts across model lines and admit as much.

    as market leader, they are also pushing the envelope on technology and new feature introduction on many models.

    if you look at the issues with say the catalytic convertors, steering wheel shafts, dbw implementations that are affecting several models, we see what can happen when models share parts and designs.

    you get the sense they are moving forward rather fast, heavily leveraging commonality in designs and constituent parts, outsourcing, bumping up against the challenge of maintaining high QA just like other manufacturers.
  • eddieeeddiee Member Posts: 25
    If this problem goes away after driving a short distance it sounds similar to a problem I have with a 2002 V6 AWD Highlander. See item #2862. I still have the "problem" but it always goes away after driving a few hundred feet (or over a few bumps).
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    Lexus was a couple of notches higher than Toyota on the reliability rankings published in the Boston Globe a week or two ago. Scion -- another Toyota product -- was down toward the bottom of the list.

    Why are cars built in the USA by Americans from Toyota, Honda, etc., still considered to be "foreign" cars? Why are Chrysler products, owned by Daimler, considered to be "domestic" cars? My father once owned an Eagle Premier with a French engine, German transmission, and Japanese starter. The car was built in Ontario, but it was a "domestic car." The world marketplace has blurred these lines.
  • backtolifebacktolife Member Posts: 3
    If in fact the struts of my Highlander are topping out & making this knocking sound/clunking sound/thunking sound, going over speed bumps, up a curb or a dip in the road.

    Is there any fix for this from the dealer or should I Just leave it.

    By leaving it, is there are concern??
  • mcmmcm Member Posts: 11
    Just a heads up that the dealer figured out what was producing the loud sputtering similar to a missing muffler -- there is a gasket that it attached to the exhaust system just before the catalytic converter. It was almost completely worn away. My metro DC dealer replaced it under the exhaust warranty (I unfortunately had to spend $500 + on front and rear brakes although it was the first time I had them done at 55K miles)
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    Does anybody know how to REMOVE the cross bars on the roof rack? I loosened, and removing those knobs on each one, but they wont come out. What else am I supposed to do?

    Thanks.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Just remembered there was some discussion on this problem before (or a similar problem) -- see posts 7377 through 7422 in the Toyota Highlander discussion.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    See post 209 in the Toyota Highlander Accessories & Modifications discussion.
  • cssnostromocssnostromo Member Posts: 13
    Toyota, like other manufacturers, is contending with globalization . The once proud and iconic factory workers in Nagoya and other Japanese assembly plants have given way to middle of the road auto workers in the U.S.,Canada and soon -China. Gone are the motivated, disciplined and highly educated auto workers and managers who comprised the industrial core of Japan's auto industry from the 1950s-1980s. They lent their talents and abilities to solidifying the Toyota brand name in much the same way American workers did for American brands decades before. Quality, while remaining higher than other automakers, is waning as famed suppliers like Nippondenso pull out all the stops to cut costs, maintain quality and counter dirt cheap Chinese suppliers. We have Toyota to thank for waking American automakers from their respective comas and once again making better cars. The question is will Toyota survive the tsunami of cheap, well-made Chinese cars poised to saturate the world market.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    do we have information on the long-term reliability of these Chinese cars?

    anyway, in China's efforts to cut costs, demand for energy and environmental issues, watch - they'll probably eventually outsource to Africa. ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Stay tuned for Thai pickups. Check out the Buy a Chinese made or GM vehicles? or the GM, Ford, Toyota, Honda...Who will sell you your next car? discussions while waiting for someone to post another Highlander solution.

    Steve, Host
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    Thanks Landdriver :)
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I don't know if the Highlander is built in the same way as our '94 Corolla wagon, but it may be worth checking into. We had this sort of thunking on bumpy roads in a '94 Corolla wagon the last few years we owned it. The noise was coming primarily from the rear passenger side. Service people said it was bushings for the sway bar stabilizer. Said it didn't pose a safety hazard, and I drove the car another 3 years and 30K miles without doing anything about it. If that's the situation you are in now, the question is (1) whether you can live with the noise on bumpy roads, and (2) whether you want to live with a noise like this in a new vehicle.
  • mocamoca Member Posts: 2
    Anyone had their shifter lockup in Park, with ABS, VSC and BRAKE lights on? Very annoying. I was hooking my boat up for the first time, pulled it out about 3 feet before putting car in park, to check clearance in carport before pulling all the way out, and the shifter won't let me depress the knob to put in any gear. Brake light, VSC and ABS lights are on. Checked brake fluid and engine, everything looks fine. parking brake not on. turned engine off and on, let cool 1/2 hour, no luck. My car is dead in the driveway! Engine idles fine, but can't shift!!
    Checked other threads but couldn't find anything on transmission lockup, or similar. We were supposed to take the boat out today and now the day is killed.

    Ron
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    my 94 camry had an owners manual note on how to unlock it using the key
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    My Highlander owner's manual also had info about this. If I remember correctly, there is a little plastic cover somewhere near the shifter that you have to pry off with a little screwdriver. By doing this you uncover a button or something that lets you unlock the shifter. The manual also said something about having the vehicle checked as soon as possible anytime you have this happen.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    When you applied the brakes at the end of that 3 foot drive forward the brake light fuse blew due to the extra load or some misconfiguring of the wiring. The brake MUST be applied in order to shift from park and it is the 12 volts from the brake light circuit that actuates the solenoid that releases the shifter.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    Steve, i read your very old post #209 regarding removing the cross pieces on the roof rack. I have attempted it, and can only get the outboard "latchs" unhooked...not able to get the inboard ones ...any advice? Thanks!

    BTW, did you notice any reduction in wind/air noise at hiway speeds after this?
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    Ok..a little persistance, helped out. For others who might want to remove your cross bars, it is realy easy, once you get the first one off..like most things....

    anyway..after unhooking the first 2 latches, I appled a little inward pressure on the black plastic cap, while using my "tool": a right-angle 90 degree little hook, with the small part maybe 1/2 inch long, and the long part with a screw driver type handle.... (looks like a capital "L") to unhook the 2 latches on the inboard side...the inward pressure made it much easier for the inboard latches to come unhooked. Voila! My cross bars are removed.

    Now for a highway test......
  • mocamoca Member Posts: 2
    thanks, will check on this. Doesn't make sense though that the brake lights would be connected to a load factor?? Also, I had already moved back and forth in the car as I was pulling the boat out of the carport. It didn't lock up until the 4th or 5th time when I was clear of the carport. Very strange. Today I went out and forced the shifter into drive, and got the boat out. I had read earlier that someone else forced the shifter into gear, and tried it, without breaking anything. However, the warning lights for VSC, Brake and ABS are still on, yet I haven't driven the car more than a few feet. And they stay on even when the boat is disconnected. I will check on the brake fuse.

    Any idea where the plastic cover is near the shifter? And does this button just release the shifter or "fix" the problem?
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