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Comments
A Miata simply does not need displacment, because it is so light. Look at what Honda does with 2 liters - 225hp! Look at Subaru - 227hp!
Still, going to 200+hp would likely make it $30 grand, and that segment is already overcrowded with fine cars.
I'm not even sure I'm looking forward to the new one. I hope they stick to the basic, pure sports car philosophy. Then again, I can always pick up a used one.
Offer a rotary only if that makes it lighter and is still remains affordable.
-juice
Does anyone have any idea what I'd be looking at in terms of cost? I hate dealing with trannie mechanics as they always try and gauge me.
I saw the complete clutch kit in one of the Miata magazines for $277. Should I buy the kit, and tell the mechanic to install it ... therefore, only charging me for labor?
The Miata is a wonderful car, and this is the first major repair (aside from the top which I need to change soon also). But I'm thinking of letting it go come spring time. Driving in NYC traffic in such a small car is often tedious.
Eddie
However these small displacement high revving engines are not for everyone. Most people who own the S2000 don't take full advantage because they are too nervous to rev it to the full 9000 rpm, and don't like the way the engine screams. This is, of course, what I live for!
I think that the best move they can make is to offer a turbo Miata as an option, that way the price can stay low for those who don't want the extra power. Extra power which will make less difference then a lot of people think.
-juice
rcman
Check out tirerack.com for ready to mount packages of snow tires and rims to fit your Miata. Something like Michelin Arctic Alpins would do the trick.
rcman
Changing the timing belt at the dealer is approx $300. When I ran across a car with over 60k miles and the belt wasn't changed, it wasn't a showstopper, I used it as a negotiating ploy. I finally ended up purchasing a '92 with 42,000 miles so the timing belt issue was moot.
Although I don't hang out here (did not own and was not planning to buy a miata), my friend whom I spoke about like 6 months ago here, is selling his miata. He wastes money like crazy, and when I asked him how much he wanted for it, he said $10.5k. Now, this is for a 99 miata with 16k miles, bose stereo, nardi wheel, 15 inch rims, power everything execpt seats. It's black on black, which looks nice in my opinion. I know this kid since he had this car, and he doesn't drive the car hard, nor does he take much care of it. He should be in a camry or something like that! He's selling it this cheap because it needs minor work which looks like major to him. The driver's side mirror is broken (just the mirror and a 2 inch piece of the outside plastic, the motor is fine.), the left taillight assembly is broken (just the plastic, the bulbs are ok, not that they'd be expensive) and the battery is dead and it probably needs regular maintanence. I can fix all that for at most $750. The book value on the car is 16.5. I am willing to sell my mustang gt for it, because when I drove it, I missed the low end torque, but the steering itself made up for every bad opinion about the miata. Also, I do plan to add the Jackson supercharger to get similar performance to my stang. It's easy to add power, but very expensive and difficult to make a bad handling car good, sometimes it's impossible. That's why I am going to buy this miata as soon as I can sell my car. What do you think, is this a good idea? I plan to get rims (only 16), bodykit, and the aforementioned supercharger and exhaust upgrades. Then, the miata should be just about perfect. Should I go ahead and do it?
Also, how can a battery die that quickly? Another red flag and sign of abuse.
Do a compression test on the engine to make sure the piston rings are sealing well. If the interior smells moldly, that could mean dampness and trouble down the road.
If you're going to invest another $5k in mods, you want to make sure you start with a Miata that is in good shape, clean and unmolested. Just make sure that is the case.
-juice
Even if you are skilled and drive safely, with snow tires and all, it's not like you have any protection against them. Their bumpers are at about eye level, and 4WD leads to overconfidence and people sliding around all over the road.
Pick up a used beater, I recommend an older Subaru. It'll keep your Miata cleaner to boot.
-juice
What I'm getting at - if you do have to drive the Miata in a NC snow/ice storm, you won't have much traffic to worry about. If you can handle a '72 Buick in the snow, the Miata will work too (though the ground clearance isn't as good). In my experience, you're more likely to have an accident due to poor tires with limited traction (your own fault) in ANY weather condition than with good tires in the snow/ice. Don't flame me all you guys in the snow belt. "Winter" driving is a different animal down here.
142bhp. That's actually a little less compare to the previous year model. My question is can I fully recover the loss power of the 01 miata if I completely replace the stock exhaust system to a free flow exhaust to fully take advantage of the vtech(honda term) of this car? I believe this car can be at a next level of performance and enjoyment if the total power can be fully utilized. This means the miata will be better than
mr2, low-end z3, and even close to low-end porsche boxter.
Thanks for you input!
A cat-back exhaust system usually yields about 5hp. Go with anything freer flowing and you end up losing low end torque due to reduced back pressure.
I don't believe Mazda's line that they lost 13hp due to emissions. Baloney. It was overly optimistic marketing.
Ford did it with the Mustang. Twice. You'll recall the 1987 GT has 225hp, then when the Cobras came out it was 205hp (245hp for the Cobra). Where'd those 20 horses go?
Then the Cobras weren't making 320hp, it was more like 305hp. To regain those 15hp it took more than just an exhaust, too, including lots of intake mods.
So maybe Mazda got Ford's disease, given the ownership. That or they passed the "cooties" on to Nissan, which had claimed 180hp for their new Altima, now down to 175hp.
-juice
Subaru tuned the WRX for the USA with 12 more horsepower vs. other markets, and that with 3 cats and an LEV categorization, no less.
Are there any willing candidtates with a 2001 that are going to swap exhaust? Let us know if you notice a diff.
rcman
I will keep you all posted when the big day comes!!! Thank you!
007- the Mazda James Bond
rcman: while Toyota and Honda may have an edge over Mazda overall, the Miata is Mazda's most reliable model and actually beats most Hondas and Toyotas.
Find a used one that was well taken care of, and you'll get years of trouble-free driving. I bought a '93 about a year ago and here is my complete and exhaustive list of problems so far:
-juice
PS In other words, none.
The fact that most people don't put a lot of miles on them is good for you. You can find a properly maintained, low mileage '95 for under $10k and drive it for ten years if you change the oil and maintain it properly.
Hope that helps!
I got a 1993 because I did not want the 2nd air bag as I will eventually carry a little kid in there.
Happy shopping. Used values have dipped a lot recently, and cold weather means it is a good time to buy.
-juice
As a matter of fact the exact VIN number is located on Miata.net if you happen to have a 1991 and are curious as to whether your car was made before or after.
If the powertrain lasted 11 years and never had the problem, then it wasn't a problem to begin with. :-)
-juice
rcman
For mods, I find it a shame when the exhaust is replaced from the nice sounding factory to a whiny aftermarket for a hp or 2, but that's just me.
I beg to differ about the rain. At least with my all seasons (M+S, no less), traction is awful. If I apply any gas at all it breaks loose. Driving it requires your full attention and skill at all times.
I have Sears tires, but they are really Bridgestones. That may be the reason.
-juice
I may actually get a summer tire next time, because I have the Subaru for foul weather. Hence I don't really have to compromise performance.
-juice
-juice
Right on juice, it probably is the better suited all season car. However, these tires won't last 20,000 miles. I'll re-evaluate after they wear out.
I just talked to a guy at my apartment complex who has a 1992 with Dunlop D60A2's and he corraborated what j2kbarlow said. he loves them. I may go with those for my first tire change if they are cheaper...my savings account will probably be drained after this 1995 purchase....which looks like may take a couple of days longer than I thought as I'm waiting for a check to arrive in the mail. I don't know if I can take it!! I'm ready to drive the thing NOW!!!!!
rcman13, impatiently waiting.
BTW, juice - I used to have the Miata/Subie combo and loved it. When the wife's MPV is paid off, I'm going to be looking real hard at a WRX if I don't get Miata # 2...
Dunlop actually just replaced the D60A2 tire. It's the SP Sport A2 now, something like that.
You will love how many more parking spaces are suddenly available!
If I could have things my way, we'd trade the wife's 626 for a WRX, keep the Forester for family duties and snow, and the Miata for top down fun.
-juice
The car is much more controllable then a fwd because you can use the throttle to maintain good, easy control of the car.
It's getting cold here, it'll be time to throw on the solid roof soon. I'll miss the convertable for the next half year, but on the bright side I think the car looks really sharp with the hard top installed.
rcman
Man I gotta quit posting so much...but what can you do when you have miata fever.