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Comments
rcman: call Mazda's 800 number with the VIN. They can tell you everything that came with your car. I found out mine has the rear LSD but not ABS, for example.
You can also test the LSD yourself. Jack up the car at the rear diffy, getting both rear wheels off the ground, then turn one wheel slowly. If you have a LSD, the other wheel will spin in the same direction (mine did, which also means it's functioning). If not, it will spin in the opposite direction.
-juice
rcman
Seriously, if the rest of the top is Ok, I believe just the window can be replaced.
On the window, try some Meguires or 3M plastic window cleaner and polish before you replace the window or top. If it's not too far gone, they can work wonders. If you do replace the top, I highly recommend a glass window version.
Mine is in good shape, and I use a little Endust to clean them, with good results. It was a tip someone on Miata.net gave me after using it on his for 7 years, and it's worked for me, too.
New windows are in the $150 price range, if you need one. I'd go with glass and pay a little more, though.
-juice
I've found only one serious drawback to the miata. My wifes likes it too much!! so now I have to take her everywhere and she hates it when I turn a corner at 30. oh well....guess everything has a price....
Yeh it seems like as soon as I walk in the door from running an errand I just have to find some excuse to go back out again. I can see myself intentionally forgetting things at the store just to go back. And of a sudden, I don't like the grocery store a block from my house...they have much better produce at the one that's 15 miles down the road (the curvy one).
rcman
007
Reliability has been excellent. Durability has been compromised by failed seal between rear window glass and rubber gasket on the vinyl convertible top. Will buy another one - a base 2002 - but this time with hardtop. It too will be a winter garage queen; a fwd Riviera with winter tires and heated seats serves well in non-Miata weather.
$5k off seems like a great deal. Careful 'cause some local Mazda dealer include college grad and MAC (Mazda American Credit) renewal rebates that you may or may not be eligible for.
If the price is a stretch, why not pick up a used '99 model? There are plenty of good bargains.
-juice
And you are right, the discounts include a new college grad rebate which I qualify for since I've graduated within the last two years.
I know James Bond drives a BMW, but I couldn't afford that. I currently have a James Bond Omega Seamaster watch. Now all I need is a convertible..
..heehee
007 -the fake one
Seriously, the average car costs over $24 grand, and a Miata, even a base model, is hardly average.
-juice
The LS has an optional 6 speed tranny. Back in 00 I test drove a base 5 speed, and the revs when going over 65mph were quite high. Does the 6 speed make the rpms less at that speed, or is the 6th gear allowing for increases in performance only, and not for cruising comfort?
Also, does the LS come standard with the limited slip? WHAT IS THAT? Some sort of traction control?
Thanks!
The limited slip you are talking about is a Torsen differential (dunno how the option packages are structured now, but when I bought mine, Torsen only comes on Sports package, and Popular equipment package, and leather package; base and Touring didn't have torsen)
Basically it puts traction on the wheel when the other one is spinning. Unlike an open differential, which will just let the spinning wheel spin.
Oh and not all LS comes with torsen. I believe automatic transmission cars don't have Torsen.
I am no mechanical engineer, so someone please correct me if I am mistaken.
In the report:
HHTSA DOT HS 808 875: NHTSA, A Test Track Study of Light Vehicle ABS Performance Over a Broad Range of Surfaces and Maneuvers.
ABS stopped shorter than either best effort or full-lockup stops on dry concrete (9.7% better), Polished Wet Concrete (16.7% better), Wet Ashphalt (11.4%), Wet Jennite (17.6%). On grass (-7.1%), and gravel (-30%), ABS performance suffered. This is with a professional driver and either different vehicles of different sizes and drivetrains. The report concluded that vehicle stability was superior in every case especially on split traction surfaces.
Remember, ABS can modulate each INDIVIDUAL brake, something that is impossible for a human to do, maximizing traction at each wheel.
At my Miata driving school, people who had to execute threshold braking were, on average, only moderately successful. This is under controlled environment with full concentration on braking. In a panic situation, where you have to perform avoidance, ABS allows you to maximize braking while maintaining control of the vehicle.
In panic stop on uneven surfaces ABS is like having 4 brake pedals. Even Michael Andretti cannot modulate all 4 brakes separately.
Though my Miata does not have ABS and I have not missed it yet. At least the brakes are 4 wheel discs, easy to modulate, and the car is light and maneuverable. So if any car can go without it, the Miata is it.
IMO, get it if you can, but don't let that stop you if it's not on the car you love.
-juice
ABS is a great feature, but getting a Mazda has not made it easy to get it.
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/ray_tsui
Click on "shared", and then download the pdf file.
You may not have the heating wire on the glass, but the area is small anyway, and pretty easy to defrost if you adjust your vent to blow air on it.
If your car doesn't come equiped with hardware for hardtop, you can buy them at your local Mazda dealer and the hardware is not difficult to put on.
6-speed vs. 5-speed
Drive both before you make a decision. There are people out there who like the 5 and then there are those who can't live without the 6 after trying it. So, do yourself a favour, drive both before you make up your mind.
www.mx-5.com
-juice
ace
Thank you for your comments. I thought I would get the drop-in filter that fits inside the box. My concern is getting grit into the engine. If there's any risk of damage, I will not do it. I'm an ex-MGB owner and my Miata is fantastic.
Bill
I've spent the last couple of years really mastering my shifting techniques and honing my driving skills, which will gain more speed then bolt on mods which can cost much more then the hp gain is worth. I would recommend spending that cash on a real driving school instead of mods, so that so that full advantage can be taken of what the car already has to offer.
I agree with Freddy's 2nd paragraph. I went to the BMW Ultimate Driving Experience yesterday, just for kicks. We got a crash course and then took timed laps in a 330xi. The instructors were running in the 1:29 range, though the best I could do was 1:31. 2 seconds per lap is huge, so any improvement in my technique will clearly help more than, say, 5 horsepower. Even 10.
The worst times were in the 1:39 range, so I didn't feel too bad. Still, there is a huge spread between skilled and novice drivers.
Another thing, I lost my gas cap the other day. Did you know the Miata isn't listed in most gas cap catalogs? I had to go to a dealer, who charged a whopping $24.97 for the stupid thing! They are $4 at NAPA. Ridiculous. He said list price was a whopping $33!
They charged the woman in front of me almost $9 for an oil filter for an older MPV, so maybe Congressional Mazda in Rockville, MD just has sky high prices. I'd avoid them and use Roebuck if you're not in a hurry like I was.
-juice
Dave
Where is the best deal on a top? I've seen the Robbins in catalogs and was about to take the plunge there, but on ebay there are some other manufacturers. I just don't know if the quality is there. A glass window would be nice, too,eh?
Thanks
My problem is that the dealer I'm currently...er...dealing with...says that the only way I can get ABS is if I get the 6-speed transmission. In his words, "that's the way they built them this year." Is this true? Edmunds does not indicate this in their options section. It might be true that this particular dealer only has models configured this way, but it seems a little shady.
Also, on a nicer note, the dealer claims Mazda is offering $1,000 incentives that aren't mentioned anywhere on Edmunds, mazdausa.com, or anywhere else. Have you guys heard of this incentive?
The end result is that I can get a 2001 LS with ABS and 6-speed for invoice minus $1,000 incentive, minus $400 college grad rebate. That would put me at a shade over $22,000. Does this sound like a good deal? Or do you all think that even deeper discounts might be on the horizon?
Also, I'm tempted to tack on a couple thousand more and go with the SE model -- that dark green with tan leather and wood looks amazing. BUT, I'm thinking that I don't really need the sport-tuned suspension package. It would just make my rides (which don't involve racing around sharp corners very often) that much more jarring. Anyone concur? For that matter, I'm not even sure if I need the LS model -- if the base model will give me a great ride to begin with, I can shave $2,500 off the price.
Well, any advice is appreciated. I'm going to buy *something* within the next couple of days.
Thanks!
I chose the LS because I like the extra options and the extra weight that people complain about doesn't make a real difference unless you're planning to actually drive it on a track. The only complaint I have on the LS is the leather seats which are hot and slippery, really not worth it for the 'snob appeal' that leather offers. I hate having to pay for such an expensive option that I don't even want.
In the end you'll be happy with whatever you get if it's a Miata. Cheers!
I say sit in each one. Test drive the ones you like. Buy the one you like the most, as long as you can afford it. It may be leather, it may be cloth, 5 or 6 speed, so you won't necessarily like the most expensive one best.
-juice
Here's why:
1. low demand for this car
2. winter is here(atleast very soon)
3. year end clearance
4. it's ok if dealer loose money selling a car
like this(reason: 1, 2, 3)
I know because I've seen prices like that and knew people who bought it at those prices last year end.
Good luck!
At least be realistic.
Start at invoice, deduct the rebates and incentives you qualify for, and pay that fair price. The holdback is the dealer's, IMO, or they may not survive to service your car when you need it (recalls, service, warranty repair).
-juice
$20,000 right? Ok. that's already $2k off msrp.
Next, mazda offers $1500 dealer incentive at the end of last year for clearance. Put in the college grad rebate is another ~$500(if you qualified). Here, we already have around $4000.
Final thing, what's wrong with dealership loosing $1000 trying to get rid of year end models. If you look at Honda and Toyota, they are doing the same thing. The best price I've seen on a year end Accord last year was a 4cyl Accord ex with $4000 below msrp($22,000), but only 2 to choose from. Back to the miata, certainly the selection is limited on a discount of $5000 off msrp = ~17000. I also remember last year was if you take the incentive, you can't get the low apr from Mazda.
Am I being realistic? Yes, I am telling you the truth of what I've seen. Now if you ask me if I can find one for you at this discount I've mentioned, the answer is maybe. But towards the end of the year, the chances are even better. Atleast you can get $4000 off msrp easily, but $5000 you may have to be lucky.
Please look on the ad on Friday in the bay area CA, or southern CA. More dealers in those areas provide more competition.
Hope that explains my point.