Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 2500 Owners

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
This discussion is for the Silverado 2500 owners.

Owner's Clubs


  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    So, I guess I'm it.

    Mike L

    2000 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd Reg Cab Longbed

    Average mpg - 14.0 w/pop up camper

    Longest trip 7500 miles to West Virginia, Michigan and back to California

    Mike L
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    2000 Silverado Ext.Cab 3dr., 2500 Shortbed 2wd, 5.3 4spd. auto, locker, trailer pkg. Installed Borla Cat Back Dual Exhaust at 700 miles (anybody need a new o.e.m. exhaust system??)

    Ordered 12/99, Built 2/9/00 Took delivery 2/26/00 - 17000 miles to date, no major problems 12-14 mpg around town 17.8 mpg best highway so far.
    Towing 18 1/2' travel trailer 10 mpg. Well didn't buy it for the mileage obviously.
    Pics @

    Ray T.
  • careyacecareyace Member Posts: 44
    2000 silverado ext cab s.b. LT with fourth door 6.0,3:73 gears. mpg,not so good. Put on a few after market accessories.I pull a 29' fifth wheel camper and other toys.See the pics at I have pics of some accessories and some of my c/k trucks I had too.No problems to speak of as of now.Bought it off the lot in March 2000 and its got 18000 miles.
    Stuck in a pic of the window sticker too.
    Andrew E.
  • jovanottijovanotti Member Posts: 1
    2001 Silverado 2500HD 4WD, SB, 4dr, 4.1 axle, 6.0L engine, auto, snow plow prep. Picked it up just a week ago. LOVE IT!! We'll see how things go as I rack up the miles. Not happy with the Chevy splashguards -- not long enough to keep the mud (and my gravel driveway) from hitting the rocker panels. Would have preferred the painted running boards, but told by the dealer that they wouldn't work with the wheel flares (which come standard). Opted for wheel-to-wheel step rails, due in a week. Also planning on getting a rhinoliner. Anyone had any experience with them?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Have had my rhino liner since april of 2000.

    Its great

    No negative things to report about it
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Last I heard it was a 1500. Or are you wishing you bought a real truck? haha
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Go to my photo album and take a look at the mud flaps I installed (they would be under the Borla photos), they are readily available at any good auto parts store (Autozone, Pep Boys, etc) and the install involed no drilling into the truck metal I used all existing holes to install, they are 100% better then those preformed ones that do diddly when they are needed most, cover more surface area and don't trap dirt behind them as the preformed do.

    Ray T.
  • careyacecareyace Member Posts: 44
    I think you met to respond to jovanotti in regards to the splash guards. If you look at my pics I didn't have any when the pics were taken but I have since put on the "preformed" guards and they seem to work pretty well.

    jovaotti,I also did a spray in liner but I did line-x. I think the bigger name liners all hold up good but I could be wrong.

    Andrew E.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Be sure to check behind those preformed mud guards now & then because they do tend to trap dirt/sand/grit between them and the body making the paint prematurely wear off and rust to invade the space.
    Been there done that....

    Ray T.
  • randy56chsrandy56chs Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about the Duramax-Allison LS/LB for towing a 30 ft Sunnybrook 5th. the max the 5th can weigh loaded is 12,700. I hope to stay at least 1000lbs below that. I'm getting scared about the fuel mileage reports with the 8.1 gas, and I'm going to be "fulltiming it". that's why I'm thinking Duramax. I have no diesel experience at all so any input is welcome. I have a couple of friends who say diesel!! Anyone out there towing with this with at least a few months on it?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    check out

    Plenty of good info there i have heard

    (hope the link works)


  • mrbergmrberg Member Posts: 2
    hello everyone

    I will be buying a 2001 2500HD 4WD crew cab AS with the 6.0L automatic no other options and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice for the dealer discussion and if anyone can give me they're opinion on the truck/options/accessories needed

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    ask the salesman to see the invoice of the truck you want to buy (shows how much the dealer pays for the truck)
  • gator34gator34 Member Posts: 3
    Just bought my 2500HD ext. cab, 6L, 4x4, LS. Paid about 700 under invoice & about 4200 under sticker. They're trying to sell fast to make room for the 2002's. Good luck.
  • mrbergmrberg Member Posts: 2
    well ive tried to nagotiate for my new 2500hd 4wd swb ls crewcab 6.oL auto tranny and dont like what ive heard so far to all you owners perspective buyers what are you getting for price quotes if i may ask lowest ive seen is $33,900 for a this truck and it has no other options ive found that invoice is on $29,286 is this the best ill get or should i wait for the price i have already been offered the 2500 SLT lariet 4x4 quad cab with the cummins turbo diesel and a tona cover for $29,248.00 please i need help
  • indian4indian4 Member Posts: 3
    Left the truck in the driveway for a week and when I started it, the transmission wouldn't go into gear. Brought it into the dealer and they told me this is a defect in the transmission. It seems that the fluid drains into the pan and creates an air pocket. Called GM complaint central and they agreed. Problem is they don't have a fix. Anyone out their with a similar problem. would appreciate your comments.

  • ndared1ndared1 Member Posts: 21
    I encountered the same problem with mine. I have a 2500hd with allie and 15K miles so far and love everything about except that problem of leaving it set for awhile. There are two filters in this tranny, the one you can see and change (control main oil filter, a spin on) and one that is similar to all other auto trannys (suction filter which requires pan removal to change). I agree there is no EASY fix to this problem which is really no big deal, heck we only pay 30K+ for these vehicles. I think there needs to be a check valve (or flapper valve) somewhere between the coverter housing and front support module to prevent the oil draining from the directional flow control valve to the pan. I haven't had it for about five months now but when I did have it I simply moved the shift selector from reverse to low twice and it got me moving again, I think this directs the flow the fastest from the pan back into the flow control module.
  • tmatthewtmatthew Member Posts: 26
    Hi all...we took delivery (only waited 4 weeks and a day) about a month ago and have put 1500 trouble free miles on our 4 X 2, 6.0, auto (chevy), crew cab LB. I am happy so far besides the dealer lies and mistakes...clearance lights were missing on delivery and they refuse to put 'em on and they lost our discount coupon (my step-brother works for GM and we got such a deal it would make you sick) and found out the salesman tried to use it again for a friend of his..GM came down on them hard and fast...BOOM. They really got spanked! Put 25 110 lb bales of hay in the other day..didn't even know they were back there till I got home and had to unload 'em all..damn horses!....Oh yeah..4 tank fulls getting about 13.5 MPG
  • mlempiremlempire Member Posts: 34
    go to post your lemons here board if you dare, I had a 2k ls with 6.0 and loved it , bought this 2001 lt to spoil myself and it was a nightmare.picked up a 2002 2500hd LS 6.0 and i am back in dream land and getting more that 8mpg again , thank god
  • mill700mill700 Member Posts: 7
    I bought a 2002 Indigo 2500HD 4x4 6.,4.10, Xcab,SB and I love it. This is the smoothest driving truck yet. I bought it 8/23, and have 4300 miles with 0 problems. I will use it to pull my snowmobiles, and they seem like nothing for this truck. The 4.10 gears work well, and I still get 13-14 mpg on avg.
  • mbartbmbartb Member Posts: 5
    Hi - trying to find out if the dealerships are trying to put it to me (being a girl - you know how it is) . . . have a 01 HD w/ 8.1, Allison tranny, 3.73, crew cab. (forest green by the way - very nice!) . . . check engine light came on - took it to dealer who said it is within GM spec to burn 1 qt oil per 2000 miles. Sounds like a crock of &*(@ to me, and want to know if anyone else has had this problem (if it is a problem) and what's going on . . . (7900 miles by the way)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    In accordance with GM tsb no.01-06-01-011

    "The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition."

    What's funny is that it is the acceptable rate up to 36,000 miles at which your warranty expires. Does that mean it becomes unacceptable once that happens?.....hmmmm..
  • mbartbmbartb Member Posts: 5
    Very interesting - especially the last note - what happens to oil consumption after 36K? Nothing published on acceptable levels? What is tsb no. 01-06-01-011 (where did you find it?) Forgive my ignorance!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Full TSB:

    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011

    Date: March, 2001


    Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines

    Models:All 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW

    This bulletin is being revised to add Model Years 2000 and 2001. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-60-04A (Section 6 - Engine).

    All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.

    Oil Consumption

    The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

    Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.

    Gasket and External Leaks

    Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.

    Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)

    Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.

    Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level

    The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.

    Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change

    Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.

    High Speed or High RPM Driving

    Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.

    Towing or Heavy Usage

    Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.

    Crankcase Ventilation System

    Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Incorrect PCV valves, blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.

    Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)

    On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.

    Engine Temperature

    If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.

    Engine Wear

    Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.

    Measurement of Oil Consumption

    Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).

    1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.

    2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).

    3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

    4. Wait at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.

    5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.

    6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin.

    7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 1-6 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.

    8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    However, this TSB may not apply to your truck since it's over the 8500 LB GVW. I am assuming though, that your dealer is using this TSB as a guideline since I couldn't find one for the specific model that you have. Good luck!!
  • mbartbmbartb Member Posts: 5
    Wow - thanks for the info. This will definitely give me something to go on. I appreciate your help! Hope you and yours have a safe and happy holiday season!
  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    I have a Sierra 2500HD 8.1/allison with 14000 mi.The first 8000 mi it used a qt per 1000 to 1200 mi.(lots of towing)But in the last 6000 mi it's only used ONE QUART.Now that it's broke in it don't use oil and no longer makes that annoying knock on start-ups.
  • mbartbmbartb Member Posts: 5
    Do you ever get sluggish shifts from the Allison? Seems like my catches every now and then. I also haven't done any towing - so I guess I'll see how that goes over the next few thou miles. Have a friend of a friend who has a Suburban with the 8.1 - they got a new motor out of Chevy when theirs kept eating the oil. ???
  • milkbabymilkbaby Member Posts: 2
    Can anybody advise me on their circumstances that resulted in GM buy back their 25ooHS?
    If you can please email with details or post.
    I am in the pre arbitration process with BBB, and need some more evidence to support my claim.
  • milkbabymilkbaby Member Posts: 2
    Can you give me some info on this repurchase so I will have some ammo going up against GM through the BBB
  • skidmarksskidmarks Member Posts: 47
    Anyone out there that has lowered there 2500HD 4x4 to the riding height of 1500 series? Details would be appreciated.
  • tmatthewtmatthew Member Posts: 26
    What in the world would you want to lower a 2500HD for? If you wanted a lower truck why didn't you buy one. The 2500 is built for heavy loads and such..
  • woneilwoneil Member Posts: 8
    have a 2001 2500HD with a 8.1L engine that likes engine oil

    1st 5,000 miles 1 quart, 2nd 5,000 miles 1 and half quarts, 3rd 5,000 miles 2 quarts

    have talked to other owners with the same engine, about 1/3 of them have the same problem
    (so not a normal thing for this engine)

    one gm mechanic told me they replaced the piston rings on a 8.1L and it fixed the problem

    still no answers from gm

    really like the truck and would do it all over again, but dont like to worry about my oil level every day

    thanks for any input
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    There was a TSB issued about the PCV on engines using abnormal amounts of oil, you might want to mention to your dealer don't expect GM to replace your rings that's a pipe dream, do you have the infamous cold start knock too? GM says that's normal also but yet their handing out extended engine component warranties like candy now for this issue(as long as you have documented it at dealers)

    Ray T.
  • rhornsbyrhornsby Member Posts: 1
    I see you are questioning Ryan again. Sound like old times doesn't it?
    Now for the good news: I have a 2000 Silverado LS SWB, 2500, 4 door, 4x4. LOVE IT! Thus far at 13,000 miles I have had no problems whatsoever. I changed the engine oil at 1500 miles and went to Amsoil. I haven't experienced any engine knock, and at 5000 I went to Mobil 1 oil, still sounds good. I put DeeZee running boards on the day that I bought it. Keeps sides clean....
  • wtfletcherwtfletcher Member Posts: 9
    Sorry to post this here but the problems discussion group was shut down due to some guys with too much time on their hands.
    I have a 2002 2500HD 4x4 diesel with an Allison tranny. I hear a whining noise when I decelerate. The noise is there all the way down to about 25-30 MPH. I located two service bulletins regarding rear axle noise but it may not be the same problem I an having. www/ had 2 bulletins (rear axle clunk, bump, squawk noise and 1 for rear axle lubricant recommendations).
    I understand that it is a heavy duty truck with larger/stronger gears but it is loud enough to hear it over the diesel engine (only when decelerating). Thanks in advance for your help. Great discussion board by the way!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    why change from amsoil to mobil 1? besides the cost?
  • beal1beal1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '00 2500 4x4 ext. cab sb Silverado that rides like it has no springs, solid. I feel the paint lines when I cross them. Bought this truck used Nov.'01 with only 5k miles on it. It does every thing I want it to do,Hauling and towing a 32' TT but the ride is much to firm. Does anyone know what is included in the Firm ride pk that came on the truck.I also have a '00 Suburban,4x2,2500 that rides like a dream. I wonder if the shocks for a 2500 Suburban would fit and help the ride. Anyone out there in 2500 land had this trouble.
  • mfreeman3mfreeman3 Member Posts: 1
  • ballbrakerballbraker Member Posts: 1
    i have 2004 2500hd 4x4 and i like many have the allison and 8.1 liter. i did not know it used oil til i got a low light in the first 2000 miles and i called my cousin who is a pm maintainer for chevy and found out that is supposed to be normal. i am in the navy and dont have time for a 40,000 dollar truck to be using oil if i wanted that i would have gotten a 72 chevy. i took it to the local dealer near the base and found out that gm says that is normal by there standards. well that is not by mine. called my dealer to see what is going on and they told me that they can change the head gasket and that should slow it but will not stop the process. so i told them to take the truck back and sell me another one none 8.1 and they will not without me taking a 6000 dollar hit in the pocket book. talked to the senior sales manager for nothern california and awaiting a response. according to the lemon law which i am going to be using to my advantage soon if the dealer does not own up to this 4 times of trying and it is all over for them. i only have 6600 miles on the truck and added oil 3 times. anyone had the same trouble with returning or getting this fixed. i would have never bought the vehicle had i known i had to watch it like an older one. any help is appreciated. i am contacting GM today to see what they can do .
  • nmertznmertz Member Posts: 27
    Just discovered these forums. Have a '99 Silvarado LS 2500 4X4 LB with the 6.0L. Bought it used w/ 29,500 miles on it. Now have over 146000. This is without a doubt the most reliable truck I've ever owned. Rebuilt the brakes a couple weeks ago...pads/ rotors all around (146K on factory brakes); had leaking rear axle seals. Also found leaking front pinion shaft seal. This is the first time in almost five years it's required anything but routine maintenance.
  • jc_oregonjc_oregon Member Posts: 2
    Whew...that's good to hear. I've had my 04' Suburban with the 8.1 in to a couple of dealerships due tothe annoying knock on start ups and they have said it is normal....I also just added a quart of oil between my oil changes and have 11k on it.
  • jc_oregonjc_oregon Member Posts: 2
    I'm going to give the Mobil 1 oil a try...maybe it will reduce the engine knock at start up a bit...I think most of these dealers are jumping on the same side as the manufacturer to avoid fixing the issue
  • lonewolf92clonewolf92c Member Posts: 2
    Hello all from Kansas City! I am a born and raised Ford guy that has recently purchased a 2002 2500HD crew cab 4wd. I have had it about 2 weeks and I must say apart from gas mileage, you Chevy guys aren't all bad! :)

    I noticed a tire might have been a little low so I pulled up to air hose and looked at sidewall before airing and couldn't beleive my eyes when I saw 80lbs. psi max.
    I am running LT265/75R16 E rated REVO tires. I have done some research and am still confused.
    I don't haul too often so I guess 80lbs all the way around is too much, but can't find any 'truth'. Thanks in advance for pointing me in the right direction.
  • capriracercapriracer Member Posts: 906
    The first thing you need to do is find the vehicle placard. If I remember correctly, GM trucks have the placard on the driver's doorpost.

    The placard is going to list the original tire size and the proper inflation pressure for that size. It also lists the rim size.

    There are several versions of a 2002 Silverado 2500HD. and the inflation pressures will vary a bit, BUT they all have 6.5" wide rims. An LT265/75R16 requires a minimum of a 7" wide rim, so the tires are too big for the rim. This is probably cause wear problems (center wear).

    Hope this helps.
  • lonewolf92clonewolf92c Member Posts: 2
    I did check the inside door sticker and looks like stock tires were LT245/75R16 and it says 55 front 80 rear. These are chevy rims so I am assuming they are 6" and thus maybe too narrow. Guess I'll see what else is up. Thanks for the reply!!
  • thechampion11thechampion11 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys,

    Just bought a 05 Silverado 4x4 2500 crew cab and comes with the 4:10 gears. I want to change the gears to 3:73. Is this doable? I just bought the Diablo Predator so that I can correct the speedo. Since I have a 4x4, would I need 2 sets of gears?

    Thanks for the info!

  • kdjoneskdjones Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Chevy 2500HD (gas) 4 wheel drive model. Took it in last week to local Chevy dealer (43,775 miles) for routine oil change and tire rotation. While they had it on the lift, they discovered one of my right front axles was leaking fluid. I told them to go ahead and fix it (appx. cost $300.00) since it was already there. To make a long story short, when the mechanic went to pull off the snap ring, it was frozen in place. He called the shop foreman over, who had never seen anything like that before, and it took the 2 of them to pull it off. In the process the ring was broken, and the axle sheared (at least I think that's what they said). Of course, they did not have replacement parts on hand, and could not find any locally, so had to order from manufacturer. Now, the price has almost doubled, no additional labor cost, but parts.

    My question is, has anyone had this happen to them, or heard of it happening. I'm also wondering - is this a manufacturer's defect? If so, in my opinion, I should not have to pay the full price.

    Thanks for any help/feedback on this.
  • salazar1salazar1 Member Posts: 1
    I understand that the 2004 2500LD Silverado is a 2003 1500HD by all accounts. The 1500's from what I know were/are 1/2 ton pickups. Is the 2004 2500LD a 3/4 ton truck or not?

    If the 2004LD is a 3/4 ton truck then what makes the 2004LD a "light duty" truck versus a 2004HD that by definition is a "heavy duty" truck?

    Is the difference in the "springs and shocks" or is there more to it.

    I plan to pull a 32ft 5th wheel. Is the 2500LD too light for safe and easy towing?

    Not dumb just can't get to specs.

  • bubbysbubbys Member Posts: 1
    Been having trouble w/ my 2004 Silverado 2500 HD in the snow. I have a snowplow on the truck and the truck is useless in the snow. It veers to the right and can't get out of my own drive (which is slight hill).Had 1200 lb of salt in bed and couldn't make it up a hill in the snow. Got an 85 S10 never meant to plow and the thing goes thru anything. Anyone experience problems with the Silverado in 4WD? One guy suggested beefier tires- but I find it amzing this heavy duty truck is so bad in the snow as it is delivered from Chvy and you need to go out and get tires...
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