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Hyundai Elantra Accessories and Modifications
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The difference is noticeable, but not as pronounced as I had hoped. On the other hand, if I took it off and put the stock bar back on, I bet the handling would feel terrible in comparison. It feels a little better in the turns, but it also feels a LOT more in control.
Update on the sway bar: First of all, I did buy the metal end links. I learned that you can buy them at auto parts stores under Moog part number K90360 or TRW part number 18343. In either case, they're made by Moog according to the markings. I paid $11.48 each. They made the feel marginally better in that the car still rolled a bit in corners, but it rolled gradually. With the plastic links, it seemed flat, then would roll suddenly.
On another forum, though, I learned that the 19 mm sway bar has a green indentifying mark; there is an 18 mm bar with a yellow mark. I checked the mark on my sway bar, which is supposed to be 19 mm, and it's yellow. I contacted the parts department at the dealer where I bought the parts and told the guy I thought I had the wrong bar. He offered to order in one of each of the Tibby part numbers (55511-2C000 for the 19 and 55511-2C100 for the 18 mm, I think) and we will look at them and see if I got the wrong one. I found out this afternoon the parts are in and will stop by the dealer in the morning to see what's up. I will take my camera with me I think and take some pictures comparing the two bars.
There are different bushings for the 18 and 19 mm bars; if I have the 19 mm bushings but only an 18 mm bar, that might explain why the difference in handling was not as pronounced as I had hoped; there may have been too much play in the bar pivot.
Hopefully tomorrow or Saturday I'll report back on how much better the 19 mm bar is!
:confuse:
The moral of the story is: If you order a Tibby sway bar, SPECIFY 55511-2C000 AND the GREEN MARK!
Here is what it all looked like before the carpet was added. The tray sections are 2-1/2" deep and there are two 4-1/2" deep plastic bins that can be lifted out so I can take tools with me.
I have often wished that my Wife's Elantra GLS (trunk) had similar storage. Even though it stuff in the trunk can't be seen, I don't like stuff sliding around in the trunk, nor do I like using cargo nets and things of the sort.
My little plastic ring has partially broken off on my 01 so I took some silver paint and filled in the area that was missing. Looks good enough for me. I had to fill in the area a few times every time the paint dried to acheive the same height as before. I've been using the stock shift knob with the kit. I paid $119.95 and bought it from a Tuner shop in Ohio two years ago so the price dropped $4.
I installed the B&M short shift kit a couple of years ago and have been enjoying it. Back then they included the silver B&M knob with the shift kit. If this is the knob you are looking for you can have mine. My e-mail should be turned on. The shifter in the pix is the stock one. The knob in the pix is the one I am talking about:
I checked two sites that sell the B&M shifter. One was clear that the shift ball was included with the pre-2001 shifter, and not the 2001 shifter. The other wasn't clear, so I called their customer service number and the rep told me the ball was not included with the 2001 shifter. I did find a nice-looking metal/leather shift ball on another site for only $25 that I could get.
I included the following question as part of writings on other threads. On Dec. 31 I purchased an 05 GLS 5door. The car has the #3 package. While I was doing my preliminary research one of my "wishes" was for a sunroof in a car. My new 5 door does not have a sunroof. The car salesman I worked with mentioned there are some really good businesses out there that install aftermarket sunroofs at a price comparable or less than Hyundai would charge to build one in. The salesman mentioned that they work with a company in Council Bluffs, Iowa who installs sunroofs for them when they get a customer who wants one. Do you think this is a good idea or not? Are aftermarket installations as good as manufacturer installed? Should I go for it down the road or leave well enough alone? Hope maybe someone out there has traveled this path and has some good advice.
The company also built convertible tops, and that's a whole other story.
I'll look into WebTech and see what I can find. If you want to look into WebTech for yourself, email me through my profile and I'll guide you through it.
On edit: I looked at WebTech and there are, in fact, two different procedures for remote programming. 01-03 uses one method; 04-current uses a different one. Unfortunately, the later one requires the Hi-scan tool. Don't give up yet; there may be a work around. Let me do some digging.
"hehe, that link was to my write-up
looks like it's going to need the scan tool."
So I guess you need to try one of my crazy ideas to get a dealer to do it for free. Where are you geographically? Maybe we can hook you up with someone who has a Hi-scan tool.
I had already tried the "used car dealer" route to see if he knew anybody that might could do this for me and the answer was NO...that is when I tried that info off of the web on doing it mysel.
I am in Arlington, TX so I will probably have to go to the Hyundai dealer in Fort Worth and pay them to do it. I understand that there is a recall on this car, as well, that needs to be addressed which, from what I read on these posts has to do with the passenger side air bag light...I already noticed that that is a problem with this car. When somebody is sitting in the passenger seat sometimes the light is on saying that passenger airbag is off...that is NOT very comforting.
I've had pretty good service at Allen Samuels and Freeman. Although I haven't had any work done at West Loop, they don't impress me as much. You may want to contact each dealership though and see if they will do the fob for free. When I go by Buz Post, they seem kind of closed or something; I think they either went out of business or are remodeling. But you may try them too. You might want to schedule an oil change and ask if they'll do the fob for free. I know you can make service reservations at Allen Samuels through their website- the email goes to someone names Sonya White. You might email her and ask her about whether they can do the fob for free with an oil change or rotate/balance or something. Also, check their site for coupons; they have several specials. If you want to try Freeman, they just sent me some coupons since I bought my car there; I'll see if they have any $X.00 off service work. If I have a $20 off coupon (and I think I do), this could be pretty cheap or even free for you.
If you're interested, there is a Hyundai meet in Arlington this Sunday. I doubt I will make it since my wife broke her foot, but I've been to meets in the past and they have been fun... and you can learn a lot about your car. Hopefully we can meet at one of these events. If you want to learn more about our local Hyundai club or you want some coupons, email me through my profile. No dues for the club unless you want to buy a sticker for your car or make a voluntary contribution to the website.
So last Friday I got out to the junkyard and scrounged around and found an old Tiburon with dash-mounted tweeters. I pried them out and took them home for $5. In the 04 and later Elantras without TCS and all that, there are the two "useless bins"- one next to the driver's side vent and one by the passenger side vent. They seem to be too small to be good for anthing. I fit those tweeters in there, though. The bins can be removed from the back of the panel. I put a tweeter in each bin and covered them over with the fabric from the Tibby grills which is almost an exact match to the Elantra dash and voila! My high-end sound is much improved.
While I was at it, I also wired up the rear fog lights. On the 5-door model, the marker lights on either side of the license plate are also rear fog lights- they have a bright filament (similar to a brake light) that is not connected on North-American market Elantras, although they are used for rear fogs in Europe and other markets.
I ran a wire from the light socket up to the instrument panel and have two switches for the fogs lights- the front fogs go on with one switch (provided marker lights are on), and the rear fogs go on with the other switch (provided the front fogs are on).
Some pics:
Front Fogs:
Rear without Rear Fogs:
Rear with Rear Fogs (note brighter lights on either side of license plate):
I believe OEM 15 inch wheel is +46mm offset.
I'm now seeing where a cargo net might come in handy, and the trunk tray could be very useful.
Does anyone have sources for these items? I presume ebay, but anywhere else? And, given the longevity of the platform, is it safe to presume that any of these items for the Hatchback from 2002 (I think) to current will be suitable?
Thanks.
I tried hanging the cargo net in my Elantra in several places and it always seemed in the way. I finally hung it off the pins the rear deck pivots on. That puts it next to the rear seat. I can still easily reach it but it's not in the way of the main cargo area, and if I need to fold down my seats it comes out with the rear deck panel.
Other accessories and mods to look into are fog lights (if you got a GLS) and an upgraded rear sway bar (easy but substantial suspension mod). If you want any info about these, let me know. I got aftermarket fogs that look like an OEM installation.
Are there any suspension parts available for the car that will take the handeling up another notch?
Energy Suspension makes polyurethane bushings for the sway bars. The sway bar diameters are as follows:
GLS Sedan
Stock Rear: 13 mm; stock front: 23 mm
GLS Hatch and all GTs
Stock Rear: 15 mm; stock front: 24 mm
As has been said upthread, you can put Tiburon rear sway bars on that come in 18 and 19 mm diameters. Energy Suspension does not sell directly, though, but you can buy their struff through Summit Racing.
I haven't done the poly bushings yet, but I'm thinking about it. After putting the Tibby sway bar on the back, the body roll is much better, but I think maybe putting poly bushings on just the front may balance things out a bit.
I did a writeup on the whole sway bar thing here.
Asphaltcommando: if you email me through my profile, I have some other information you may find interesting (no, I'm not a salesman of any kind!)
I just got off the Summit Racing site, and here's what I'm going to get. they sell a 22mm sway bar for 149.95, and lowered springs from Eisman. That along with a set of Riken Raptor ZRs in 215/45-17. That, along with the solid bushings ought to do the trick. Now to find 17 inch wheels. Brie :shades:
I would recommend canceling the sway bar order, if possible.
Any recommendations from folks who bought a unit and got it working with the six speakers? I'm far from an audiofile, so I can live with the factory speakers for a while. In fact, I'd prefer that to start. I'm just stuck on the 6 versus 4 speaker install.
Thanks
There are instructions on Hyundai WebTech site. If you haven't registered yet you can easily do that, here is the URL:
http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/login?returnAddress=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hma- service.com%3A80%2Findex.jsp
After registering and logging in, go to the first link in the upper left hand corner, Service Information. That will bring you to the WebTech site where you can look up tech info on your Elantra, including directions for replacing the radio.
This sounds involved but after you do it once or twice, you can do it in about 5 minutes.
Once you get the fascia off, there will be brackets on either side of the stereo head unit. Remove the screws that attach the brackets to the car, then remove the head unit and the little bin below it as one unit.
Once you get that all out, remove the brackets from the head unit and bin, and use those to mount your new head unit.
Behind the head unit is a brace that may need to be removed to put your new head unit in. In my experience and according to others, the screws that hold that brace in are a b!tch to loosen. I wanted to use the screw to ground my new head unit and never managed to loosen it; I ended up using a different bolt for my ground.
I think if you get a brand-new screwdriver that fits into the available space (or maybe a screw driver bit on a socket ratchet), you can get those screws loose.
Except for that bracket, the rest of this job is actually quite easy. Putting everything back is simply the reverse of removal.