Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    From personal experience, buying out of state is usually a pain in the rear. You need to do your own title work with the DMV for one. I know that you cannot order a Hyundai because I've been working for a Hyundai dealer for seven years now. The dealer in Reno may be able to trade to get you what you want, but he isn't ordering it which brings to mind questions about that dealers honesty.

     

    My suggestion regardless of my opinions on either dealer or situation is:

    Buy what you want, for what you want to pay, from who you want to buy it.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    What tempts me to wait 2 to 6 weeks is not so much the $200 less, but how much easier it is to get to Reno and back. Reno and back entails a bus ride to Reno and a 3.5 to 4-hour scenic drive back in my new car. To get to San Jose and back in the winter entails the same bus ride to Reno, a 1-hr., nonstop flight to San Jose, and a 8.5-hour drive in my new car.

     

    The bus runs only on Tues., Thurs., and Friday. I couldn’t leave until Friday, Dec. 17. If I want to buy the car in San Jose, I’d have to call Thurs., Dec. 16, to make sure the car is still there.

     

    I’m not keen on getting a car through a dealer trade, because that probably means someone else would be putting a few hundred miles on the car.

     

    I believe a smog check costs about $50. The hassle doesn’t seem to me such a hassle. AAA can do everything for me except perform the smog check.

     

    I’ll ask the Reno dealer about the SULEV vs. ULEV issue. I wouldn’t be surprised if Hyundai normally delivers only ULEV cars to Nevada. If the car doesn’t pass the smog check, I believe the car has to be tuned or altered or whatever so that it does pass the smog check. As far as I know, I cannot legally bring a car into California, where I reside, and continue to drive it, if it doesn’t pass the smog check.

     

    Okay, you probably noticed that I said “I believe” a couple of times.

     

    This whole process is beginning to seem so difficult. I'm taken aback by the thought that I could wait 2 to 6 weeks and still not get exactly the car I want. I haven't talked to any dealers in Las Vegas at this point, and haven't explored how someone without a car gets from here to there. A possibility I haven't looked into is driving a rental car one-way.

     

    John
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    I admire your dedication. I don't think that I would go that far out of my way to get a specific car. The logistics of it seem to be a nightmare, but at least you do know what you want and what you will need to do to get it.

     

    If you are considering Vegas, I believe Planet Hyundai is who you need to talk to. They are one of the top 10 dealers in the country, so their inventory should be impressive. Try to negotiate a dinner at the steak house in the MGM into the deal. The food is incredible there.
  • nodulenodule Member Posts: 118
    Im about to purchase a 2005 Elantra GLS 4 door

    sedan in Moonlight Blue.

    Options - Pkg 3 (cd player/cruise control)

              carpeted floor mats

              rear spoiler.

     

    My price would be $14250.00, out the door. This

    includes everything, tax...total price.

     

    Good price??
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    What is the price BEFORE tax, license, and fees? We have no way to know what those are in your area.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Given the choice between exactly what I wanted—a sterling (silver) Elantra GLS 5-door with 5-speed manual and package 6 (cruise control, stereo upgrade, ABS with traction control, and power moonroof) and carpeted floor mats sitting on the lot in hard-to-get-to San Jose for a few hundred dollars more than I wanted to pay – OR – a tidal-wave (blue) Elantra GLS 5-door with 5-speed manual and package 4 (no moonroof) and carpeted floor mats on the lot in easy-to-get-to Reno, and at a great price, I was seriously considering opting for the blue package 4.

     

    I’ve been researching 2004 and 2005 cars since before the end of August when my 1983 Honda Accord died. The Cars folder on my computer is now 28.1 MB, most of it specs and comparisons downloaded from Edmunds.com. I test drove cars using a 2-page form I wrote up for each car. And, for 3.5 months I walked, took the bus, or rode with a friend.

     

    Now it looks like I’ll be getting the exact car I want from Reno at a good price. Here’s the breakdown. Tell me what you think.

     

    Subtotals

    base 12,579.00 (invoice)

    pckg 6 1,669.00 (invoice)

    floor mats 56.00 (invoice)

    dest. fee 545.00 14,849.00 (invoice)

    adv. fee 392.00 15,241.00 (invoice)

    doc. fee 299.00 15,540.00

    off-lot fee 8.41 15,548.41

    7.37% tax 1,145.92 $16,694.33

    Rebate -1,250.00 $15,444.33

     

    Off-the-lot: $15,444.33

     

    Since the sales tax in my county is 7.75%, I’ll have to pay an additional $59.08 in tax. Then there’s the smog check (about $50) and California registration ($113?) and insurance ($?).

     

    The Reno dealer says that they expect to have the car by the end of December, but they don’t guarantee this date.

     

    Did they order the car or just preference their allotment? I’d guess the latter, but they say they haven’t had a problem getting what they want. Since they’re a big Hyundai-only dealer, I’m inclined to believe them. We shall see. I made a $500 deposit/downpayment.

     

    They told me the car will have about 8 miles on it when I pick it up. Does that tell you anything? They said that was the drive from the boat to a truck.

     

    Thanks for the suggestion about Planet Hyundai in Las Vegas. Who knows, I might have gotten the same or better deal there, and they might have the car on the lot. Las Vegas is easier for me to get to than San Jose, but not nearly as easy as Reno—which is just one 4½ -hour bus ride.

     

    John
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I hope the table below will be easier to read than the one in my post above:

     



    base. . . . . .12,579.00

    pckg 6. . . . . 1,669.00

    floor mats. . . . . 56.00

    dest. fee. . . . . 545.00

    adv. fee. . . . . . 392.00

     

    Subtotal

    (Invoice). . . $15,241.00

    doc. fee. . . . . . 299.00

    off-lot fee. . . . . . . 8.41

    7.37% tax. . . .1,145.92

     

    Before rebate. $16,694.33

     

    Rebate. . . . . . .-1,250.00

     

    TOTAL. . . . . . $15,444.33 off-the-lot

     

    John
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    A couple of things:

     

    * The current rebates expire on Jan. 3. I think it's unlikely the rebate will decrease, but it's possible it will increase. You might want to have something in writing that says your price is invoice less any current rebates, rather than a fixed dollar amount.

     

    * 8 miles means it's a brand-new car. Every new car has a few miles on it from testing and transport.

     

    * IMO the $299 doc fee is outrageous. I pay about $50 in Minnesota. How much harder can the documents be to administer in Nevada? You might ask the dealer what the fee covers, and if there is any paperwork you could do for them to reduce the fee, e.g. take the papers to the courthouse. That might tell you if the fee is legit or mostly profit.

     

    * Interesting fact: At 5% interest, a five-year loan on $14,194 ($15,444 - $1,250) would cost about $268/month. A five-year loan at 0% interest on $15,444 would cost about $257/month. What interest rate will you be paying? Would it make sense to get the 0% financing instead of the rebate?
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    The Carson City Subaru dealer offered to sell me an Impreza RS 2.5 sports wagon for invoice + $1. The $1 struck me as just a distraction.

     

    “That’s it plus taxes?” I said.

     

    “There’s a $299 doc. fee,” he said.

     

    Not knowing at that time that dealer holdbacks are the general rule, I said, “Oh, that’s where you make your profit.”

     

    He said, “Yes.”

     

    So, too, the doc. fee of $299 is probably mostly profit for the Reno Hyundai dealer.

     

    From this sample of two, I’d hazard to guess that $299 is what a lot of dealers in northern Nevada are charging or hoping to charge for the documentation.

     

    The dealer in San Jose, CA had a doc. fee of $40.

     

    The payment options are

     

    (1) take the rebate and pay their monthly interest OR

    (2) no rebate and pay no interest OR

    (3) take the rebaete and pay cash OR

    (4) take the rebate and pay cash by borrowing from a bank at lower interest than through the car dealer.

     

    I don’t know which is the best deal. Any informed opinions out there?

     

    I’m inclined to keep it simple and pay cash, since I have the money.

     

    The dealer’s profit on this deal I’d estimate at 2% of invoice + most of the doc. fee; i.e., about (.02)x(15,241) + 200 = about $505.

     

    As you suggest, I could ask for $16,694.33, less the rebate at time of delivery. In fact, I could ask that they give me either the current rebate of $1,250 or the rebate at time of delivery, whichever is greater. After all, the only reason I’d be taking delivery after the rebate changed is because I had to wait so long, when I could have got the car today from another dealer. What do you think?

     

    Currently I have nothing in writing.

     

    John
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    A few tips:

     

    1. Everything is negotiable (well, almost--delivery fee isn't). If the doc fee is mostly profit, it is negotiable.

     

    2. Get EVERYTHING in writing. Otherwise you will someday learn a good, though painful, lesson.

     

    3. To figure out whether to pay cash or take the 0% financing, you need to determine what other uses you have for your cash, i.e. what rate of return you can generate from it. For example, do you have any debts like credit card debts or other loans you could pay down? If so, what is the interest rate? If not, have you talked with a financial planner about what could be done with $16,000 over five years in today's market? Depending on how much risk you are willing to assume, you could easily get a 8-10% annual return on that money, which is worth far more than the $1250 rebate is worth.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    “Everything is negotiable (well, almost--delivery fee isn't). If the doc fee is mostly profit, it is negotiable.” --Backy

     

    I can try to whittle down the doc. fee, even though we’ve already discussed on the phone the off-the-lot bottom line, and at the time I was happy with it. There is an element of uncertainty, namely when they can get the car. I suppose I could call and tell them I’m having second thoughts.

     

    The dealer has my credit card info and my social security number, and I agreed over the phone to a $500 deposit. They never indicated that this would be nonrefundable. At this point I believe I could back out of the whole deal. However, they know I want the car, and they know where I live, and I believe they know that I currently don’t have a car. So they know that except for Carson City, they’re the easiest dealer to get to.

     

    I don’t know whether they’ve committed themselves to buying the car from the manufacturer. They said they’ve ordered the car, but we have evidence that this is not possible in the strictest sense. I doubt that the state of their commitments to the manufacturer or whomever is relevant to mine, which remains none.

     

    I thought the $299 doc. fee was a misnomer. Based on it’s primary constituent, it should probably be called additional profit. Interestingly, they offered to sell the blue Elantra GLS 5-door with package 4 already on their lot for the TMV. Perhaps they meant TMV + $299 doc. fee.

     

    I’m no longer sure what the “Total with Options” TMV really means. Is the TMV what Edmunds thinks smart shoppers and skilled negotiators can get the car for? Is it really what their data indicates people in a given area are paying for the car before taxes, legitimate fees, and rebate? The TMV for the car I want is $15,201. The invoice listed on Edmunds is $14,849. Since this does not include an advertising fee, let’s assume for the moment that there is, as the dealer claims, a $392 ad fee on the invoice. That yields an invoice of $15,241. This exceeds the TMV by $40. If the doc. fee were a reasonable $40 and we add that to the TMV, we get $15,241.

     

    The off-lot fee purportedly pays for a permit that allows me to drive the car (perhaps for 60 days) until I can get it registered in California. It’s too small to worry about.

     

    If the dealer sold the car for his claimed invoice of $15,241 plus off-lot fee and tax, less rebate, his profit would be approximately $305 (the dealer holdback of 2% of 15,241).

     

    What’s a reasonable profit on invoice—3%? To make 3% the dealer needs to charge a doc. fee of approximately 1% of invoice plus his actual expenses for documentation, say $192 (1% of $15,241 + $40).

     

    Is it possible that the state of Nevada charges about $200 for documentation? Unlikely. The Subaru dealer agreed that his $299 doc. fee was mostly profit. Perhaps the dealers in northern Nevada have a tacit agreement that they will all charge a $299 doc. fee.

     

    Still, I can point out that $299 is exorbitant, and that even an exorbitant doc. fee of $192 would give him at least a 3% profit on invoice. Whatever we finally agree on, I then need to ask the dealer to send me a signed agreement in writing, which includes the details of what happens if the car is delivered after Dec. 31, 2004. For example, the rebate will be either the current $1,250 or the rebate as of the date of delivery, whichever is higher AND if the car is not delivered by Jan. 15, 2005, then I can back out.

     

    But I believe I can back out at any time, anyway. Dealers return deposits all the time. I believe all the deposit does is establish that the customer is able to make a down payment and is serious enough about the car to tie up, say, $500 worth of credit for a couple of months (about the longest it might take to get the charge reversed).

     

    So perhaps the written agreement should say that I can back out at any time with the understanding that it may take up to 2 months for the charge to be reversed.

     

    What do you think? Is all of this on the right track?

     

    P.S. I think all car dealerships should switch to the Saturn and Scion approach to car pricing—an MSRP that gives the dealer a smaller profit margin, but is nonnegotiable.

     

    John
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Many dealerships in my area have switched to a no-haggle, "best price all the time" strategy with salaried salespeople. I've found their set prices are not bad, but not the best available to a good negotiator. So for most people they would be a good idea.

     

    A reasonable profit on invoice is whatever the dealer decides it needs to be, for them. It's up to you to accept or reject it. And it appears you've accepted it in this case, so I guess any more discussion on it is moot.
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    If you are happy with the car and the price, then you shouldn't worry about the doc fees. Everybody charges them. States set the maximum acceptable fee and every dealer I've seen will charge whatever they are told they can. I hope you like the car.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I decided I should take your advice, danf1, and call Planet Hyundai.

     

    The salesman said they are now the biggest Hyundai dealer in the world. He agreed that he can’t actually order the car, but they move so many Hyundais that it’s just a question of when the car I want would come in. According to what you guys have told me, this would be more accurate than Reno’s description of putting an order in for the car.

     

    The exact car I want is a sterling (silver) Elantra 5-door, manual transmission, with package 6 (cruise control, stereo upgrade, ABS with traction control, and power moonroof), and carpeted floor mats. That’s a pretty rare combination.

     

    Here’s the breakdown on the offer from Planet Hyundai and for comparison, the current offer from Reno.

     

    ...................Planet H..........Reno........

    base...........12,579.00.........12,579.00

    package 6......1,669.00...........1,669.00

    floor mats..........56.00...............56.00

    dest. fee..........545.00.............545.00

    adv. fee...........None...............392.00

    doc. fee...........399.00.............299.00

    off-lot..............None...................8.41

    subtotal.......15,248.00.........15,540.00

    Adjustment.......-47.00.............None

    pre-tax total..15,201.00........15,540.00

    7.75% tax.......1,178.08.........1,205.00

    Rebate...........-1,250.00........-1,250.00

    Out the door..$15,129.08......$15,503.41

     

    Note: I’ve applied my state and county’s sales tax to both offers, since that’s what I’ll end up having to pay.

     

    For the pre-tax total I asked for $15,201. I didn’t say why. (It’s the car’s TMV.) I just said that has always been my target price. He said his GM (general manager) would have to approve the adjustment, but it wouldn’t be a problem. The doc. fees from both dealers seem exorbitant, but what matters is the bottom line. The salesman at Planet Hyundai offered me what I wanted. Also, he said the rebate would be whatever it is at the time I take delivery. Also, he couldn’t take a deposit until the car comes in, because they link every deposit to a stock number.

     

    I asked for this offer in writing, per backy's advice. The salesman waved me off, but said if the guys on the discussion board tell me I need this deal in writing, he’d ask someone to generate the form; he didn’t have the means to do it himself.

     

    If I’m going to go with this new offer, then I need to notify the Reno dealer. In theory, I made a $500 deposit by credit card with them, but I just went to my credit card’s web page, and it appears that they haven’t actually dinged my account.

     

    Since I’ve talked to the guys in Reno several times, it seems to me an obvious courtesy to give them a chance to beat (or match) this offer, rather than just walk away. Also, if they did get the car in for the same price, then it remains true that after Carson City, they’re the easiest dealership to get to. (I haven’t looked into how I’d get to Las Vegas; there’s a bus from here to Reno, but not one that runs to Las Vegas.)

     

    Is it reasonable to assume that since Planet Hyundai has a bigger volume than Reno, they’re more likely to get the car I want and get it sooner than Reno?

     

    John
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    P.S.

     

    It occurs to me that I could call San Jose and see if they want to beat (or match) Planet Hyundai’s offer. They currently have the exact car. If they match the deal, I could go to San Jose and have the car right away. I suppose before I board the bus for the airport, I should get something in writing so that they won’t say they can’t do it when I arrive, though I should think dealers would be reluctant to do that with someone who’s coming from a considerable distance.

     

    John
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I would give San Jose a chance. You could ask them to email the offer to you so you have something in writing (or fax, if that works for you).

     

    P.S. What are your transit costs to/from San Jose and Reno, or Las Vegas? Would it cost you more to go all the way to Las Vegas than to go to San Jose?
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Here to Reno, NV: one scenic 4.75-hour bus ride. About $25.

    Return by car—3.75 hours. About $20.

    total: 8.5 hours & $45.

     

    Here to San Jose, CA: same as above & then 1-hour nonstop flight to San Jose. About $100.

    Return by car—8.5 hours. About $50.

    total: 14.25 hours & $150.

     

    Here to Las Vegas, NV—Anywhere from 7 hours to 2 days. Cost $?

    Return by car—7 hours. About $40.

    total: 14 hours to 2.5 days. Cost?

     

    --Plan A?

    One 2.5-hour bus ride to Ridgecrest, CA.

    Then somehow travel 85 miles to Barstow, CA?

    Then one 3-hour bus ride to Las Vegas.

     

    --Plan B?

    Rental car one-way to Barstow, CA?

    Then one 3-hour bus-ride to Las Vegas.

     

    --Plan C

    One 4.75-hour bus ride to Reno.

    Then 18.5-hour bus ride with 2 transfers to Las Vegas!

     

    There is no 1-way car rental between here and Las Vegas. It *might* be possible to drive one-way to Barstow.

     

    --Plan D.

    Post “Want a ride” at local sporting goods store. Ask everyone I know.

     

    John
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There's probably LOTS of people going to Las Vegas any given weekend...

     

    Looks like you may have some additional bargaining power with the San Jose dealer--about $100 more transit costs. You could tell them, "If you meet the offer from Las Vegas, I'll buy from you even though it will cost me $100 more because I can get the car a little sooner."

     

    You're not immersed in this transaction, are you? ;-)
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    “You're not immersed in this transaction, are you? ;-)”

     

    Immersed? LOL! What will I do when, as this misnamed thread suggests, I’m actually no longer looking for a car?

     

    Although most of the ways I listed for getting to Las Vegas are unappealing, I do know people who go there occasionally.

     

    I’ll call San Jose tomorrow (Dec. 15). What you describe is exactly how I feel. It’s worth a trip to San Jose to get the car sooner, if it's for the same price.

     

    John
  • nornenorne Member Posts: 136
    just curious. It appears you live quite aways from any Hyundai dealers.

     

    If your vehicle becomes disable and needs to be tow, does Hyundai roadside assistance cover such long distance?
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Perhaps someone who already has a Hyundai can answer this question.

     

    The roadside assistance, as described at

     

    www.hyundaiusa.com/Html/Warranty/warranty5YearUnlimited.asp

     

    doesn't mention a limitation in terms of miles. The assistance is contracted out to another company, Crosscountry of America of California, Inc., if I remember correctly.

     

    I currently belong to AAA. If I continue my membership, some of the coverage will be redundant. AAA charges for towing beyond a certain number of miles, unless you have a premium membership.

     

    John
  • nornenorne Member Posts: 136
    you are covered. Hyundai roadside assistance covers you to the closest Hyundai dealer should your vehicle become disable under the warranty. So if the dealer in reno is the cloeset, than you are cover 100% for the tow.

     

    Source: Customer Svc Rep at Hyundai Roadside assistance aka Cross country of america. This is the same motor club who provides road side assitance for honda vehicles.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I’ve waited a few days to post, but still don’t have definitive results. Las Vegas offered to sell me the exact car I want for $15,200 + tax – rebate. The salesman in San Jose said that he believed they had made their best offer ($15,700 + tax – rebate), but the sales manager wasn’t there. He may be right, but I should talk to the sales manager. Unlike Las Vegas and Reno, San Jose has the exact car I want on their lot. But for $500+ I’m willing to wait.

     

    The dealership in Las Vegas sells 150 cars a day. Since they’re open 6 days a week, that’s 1,800 cars in 2 weeks. I suspect at least half of these cars are used. So, they must sell, at most, 900 new cars in 2 weeks. The point is that they are more likely to get in the car I want than a dealer with a lower volume.

     

    Reno has called a couple of times to report that they’ve found some approximation to the car I want, and I have to tell them that if it doesn’t have ABS, I’m not interested. Their current bid on the car I want is over $15,500 + tax – rebate. However, they have a car on the lot that differs from the car I want in only 2 ways: it’s a different color and doesn’t have a moonroof. Their bid on this car is closer to its invoice than for the car I want.

     

    In short, I could have a new GLS 5-door in tidal wave blue and no moonroof (but everything else—cruise control, stereo upgrade, ABS with traction control) for $736 less than Las Vegas’s low bid on the exact car I have in mind. It’s sitting there on the lot in relatively easy-to-get-to Reno. I’m beginning to waver.

     

    John
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Unless I get a call from Planet Hyundai in Las Vegas this evening saying they have an Elantra GLS or GT 5-door with manual transmission and ABS at an irresistible price, I’ll be buying the tidal wave blue GLS 5-door with package 4 (cruise control, stereo upgrade, and ABS with traction control), and carpeted floor mats from Reno tomorrow afternoon (Dec. 21).

     

    Their price is $14,520 + tax – rebate = $14,395.30 out the door.

     

    Is this is a good price?

     

    The TMV for this car for the Reno location is $14,514.

     

    In my experience, it wasn’t that easy to find the combo of ABS, manual transmission, and 5-door for TMV. It looks like this combo is currently not on the lot of Planet Hyundai, despite their much larger size.

     

    I’m looking forward to having this car. In fact, I’m looking forward to having any car.

     

    Any last-minute advice?

     

    John
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I bought the car from Reno, as described above. It had 22 miles on it when I bought it, and now, a day later, has 225. I like it so far. I’m not used to having a car that looks perfect. I don’t want to park it near any other car. I suppose this wears off after a while.

     

    Today I have to clean the garage and recycle a bunch of stuff. I could barely get the car all the way in. Also, I need to read the Owner’s Manual. There are some features I didn’t feel comfortable fumbling with while driving home in the dark.

     

    Nice to have a CD-player. My last car had a wind-up gramophone. Just kidding.

     

    John
  • smith20smith20 Member Posts: 256
    Congratulations! The 2004 Elantra we bought back in May was our first new car purchase, so I definitely understand your feeling about not wanting to park near other cars. :) We got our first parking lot ding from another car's door about a month ago. The first scratch is the hardest . . . getting scratches is just part of owning a car, I guess. Congratulations again and enjoy!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Hallelujah! Stay away from Eldorados and seek out those small four-door cars to park next to. Did you buy some touch-up paint from the dealer? Unfortunately, you will need it sooner or later for minor scratches and rock chips. Maybe they can mail it you you.

     

    When I got our '04 GT (Rally Red) in March, it was perfect for all of a few days before it accumulated a series of dings and scratches (all inflicted when my wife was driving, but that doesn't make it any less painful), plus a chewed-up alloy wheel. But for the last eight months nothing much has happened to it. I took it to the car wash (all cloth) today before leaving town for the holidays, since it had a lot of salt spray on it, and it really looked nice moving down the line.

     

    Be sure to put a good coat of wax on the car right away too. Probably the first thing you did when you got home, right?
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I’m really glad I finally accepted reality! The silver version of the car I bought with all its options plus moonroof just wasn’t happening, at least not at a price I wanted to pay.

     

    I ended up buying a car on the lot at Lithia Hyundai in Reno, which I could have bought a month ago. But I had to go through this process my own way. In the end, I got a car I really like for TMV. I’d enjoy a moonroof, if I had one, but don’t miss it, since I’ve never had one. And I’ve decided I really like the color tidal wave blue. I found the sterling understated and elegant, and I liked that the color suggests metal, which is mostly what a car is. I like the tidal wave blue for the opposite virtue of being overstated. It really is a Look-at-me color, and makes a sharp contrast with the chrome. Saying this makes me want to go out to the garage and look at it. :)

     

    I haven’t waxed it yet. Thanks for the tip! I will do that tomorrow. I called the service guys in Reno today to find out what kind of oil they put in the car. Pennzoil 5-30. I’ve heard that an all-synthetic would be better. I’ll call again tomorrow and ask for some touch-up paint.

     

    Today I swept the garage and took a car-load of boxes to the recycle center. I dusted them off before I put them in the back of my 5-door. :) I have to work on the garage some more tomorrow, as I can just barely get the car in. It’s longer than my late ’83 Honda Accord.

     

    I still need to read the owner’s manual. It’s been a long time since I’ve had a brand new car. (I bought the ’83 Honda in ’93.) I’m probably a little naïve about how to look after it. Of course, I’ll do all the scheduled maintenance.
  • nornenorne Member Posts: 136
    I know what you mean by those scratches especially here in Hawaii where the parking stalls are extra narrow. I managed to pick up more dings and scratches in the past 6 mos than I did in first 21 months in the mainland.
  • nornenorne Member Posts: 136
    congrats john-W on your new purchase. Yeah stay away from those big suvs and trucks. MY first week in hawaii someone left a big white paint on the driver side. Made a mistake of parking it next to a old f-150.

     

    So once you put on alloy wheels later on, you basically have a GT model without the moonroof right?
  • lee_wlee_w Member Posts: 239
    Congrats! Hope you will visit our Owners Clubs. See links above or on the Left, "browse by message board"
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    “So once you put on alloy wheels later on, you basically have a GT model without the moonroof right?”

     

    Um, this was a rhetorical question, I think, but I’m not sure. Anyway, I probably won’t put on alloy wheels later. It was only in researching cars for this purchase that I realized that bigger wheels don’t mean a bigger radius from axle to the ground, just less rubber. Apparently this offers better control at the expense of more road noise and a more pronounced response to or feel for the road, which can be viewed as a plus or a minus, depending on what you want.

     

    As to alloy wheels vs. steel, what’s the advantage there? Admittedly, this is off-topic for price and buying experience. So I’m not asking for a long answer. Perhaps I should pose this question in another forum, or someone could point me to where this has already been discussed?
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Okay, Backy, I washed and waxed my car. The directions on the bottle said not to wax the car in direct sunlight. Why is that? Is this to avoid spotting from too rapid drying? (I followed directions and nearly got frostbite in my hands.)

     

    Well, that’s two off-topic posts in a row for me.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    Thanks, Lee-W, for the suggestion / invitation. I did post to the Member Introductions forum in the Elantra Owner’s Club section. I’ll check out the other boards in this category.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Yes, to avoid too-rapid drying I think.
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    The Towing Policy, while quite generous, will tow you to the nearest Hyundai Dealer, OR Authorized Facility. Why would anyone want to Wax a Brand New Car, with the added Gloss protectent? Too much Wax can be worse than not enough Wax, and out of all the New Cars I have ever purchased, this Elantra had the most incredible Gloss shine, in essence you Waxed off the added Gloss Protection. I just recently downgraded from a great Subaru SUV, to the Budget Elantra for some personal reasons. You know those Ad's in the Paper offering an Automatic 05 Elantra for $10,800. Well, I got that price with Cruise Control and Carpeted Mats added at no Charge, and paid NO Tax because it was a reverse Equity Deal, (sure my Trade in was valued low, but isn't it always?) And I know of no Dealer who sells 150 Cars a Day, that's around 15 to 20 Units an Hour, that just dosent happen, even at these Mega Stores. And with the addition of my new Dell Digital DJ, I have the equivelant of 500 CD's in the Elantra. One final thing, although I only received a $1000 Rebate (that's why the Price was so low) I just received an additional $250 Check because the Rebate should of been $1250, so even though the Deal was over a Month ago, what a nice Holiday surprize from William Lehman Hyundai here in South Florida. Make sure to get your Hyundai's maintained per the Dealers instructions, not the Factory, or the Warranty could be of little to no value, that's how they can offer a 10 Year Warranty!
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    “Why would anyone want to Wax a Brand New Car, with the added Gloss protectent?”

     

    Not sure if this question is in response to Backy’s recommendation or my post that I’d taken his advice. In any case, I can speak only for myself. If you read post 697, then you know it’s been a long time since I bought a brand new car, and as I said, “I’m probably a little naïve about how to look after it.”

     

    Gloss protectant? If I have removed a gloss protectant by waxing my car, then I wish you had weighed in before the fact. To be fair, I admit that the window of opportunity to do so was narrow.

     

    Eventually, however, one does need to wax the car, yes? Or have I turned a wax-free car into one that must now be labored over? If the former, then consider that the car had been sitting on the dealer’s lot for a couple of months and that I drove the car 200 miles home. (Both facts were discussed in earlier posts.) Might the car by then need a coat of wax?

     

    What other things should I do or not do before I wait too long or can’t undo them? (This is a serious, albeit necessarily broad question. I’m not being rhetorical or facetious.)

     

    Also, what is too much wax and why or how can this be worse than not enough?

     

    P.S. I followed the directions on the bottle of Turtle Wax, which said to buff gently.
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    “Make sure to get your Hyundai's maintained per the Dealers instructions, not the Factory, or the Warranty could be of little to no value, that's how they can offer a 10 Year Warranty!”

     

    All my dealer said about maintenance was “Here’s a log to record your maintenance.” This and the Owner’s Manual, etc., are from Hyundai. Is it fair to say that in the absence of any Dealer instructions that their (implicit) expectations are the same as the Factory instructions?

     

    What do you mean by “that’s how they can offer a 10 Year Warranty”? Except for the drive-train, it’s a 5-year warranty, and aren’t the warranties (5-yr. & 10-yr.) mandated by Hyundai? Are you saying that by my doing more or more frequent maintenance, they potentially make more money or can expect to do less under warranty or both, and that without this, they’ll weasel out of their obligations?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You never mentioned that the car has dealer-added paint protectorant, e.g. polyglycoat, and since you have been very thorough in your remarks I think you would have mentioned it had the car come with it. If the car DOES have some sort of dealer-applied paint protectorant, then the worst that happened was that you applied a coat of wax over that sealant. No damage done, except you wasted an hour. If the car does NOT have dealer-applied paint protectorant, that coat of wax will help protect the paint--in this case the clear-coat paint that covers the blue color coat. This clear coat is in fact paint and needs protection from grime, salt (in my state) and sun just like any other paint.

     

    So relax and enjoy your new car. One thing NOT to do (and if you've read the owners manual you know this) is to travel at the same speed for long distances until the car is broken in. Varying speed during break-in will help seat the rings and minimize oil loss later on. Also go easy on the brakes during break-in. There's other tips in your owner's manual.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    DO NOT, repeat DO NOT blindly accept all the service your dealer recommends, if it is over and above the Hyundai recommended service. This is a great way for the dealer to pad their revenues, but it is NOT necessary to uphold your warranty. My dealer actually recommends service (e.g. throttle-body cleaning) that is specifically NOT recommended by Hyundai on their Web Tech site. Take your warranty book to the service writer and ask him/her to do just the Hyundai-recommended service, and anything else that is reasonable (e.g. new wiper blades, tire rotation).
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    I don't think I have ever lived in an area of the United States that does not qualify for "Severe" Maintainence conditions? Why I live in a Tropical Swamp in Florida, you just mentioned Salt in your area. Today I just got my "Welcome to Hyundai" packet. And as you know, "Severe" Driving Conditions which basically doubles your Maintenance costs include the following. A) Repeated short-distance Driving. 2) Extensive Idling. 3) Driving on dusty, rough roads. 4) Driving in areas using Salt or other corrosive materials, or in very Cold Weather. 5) Driving in Sandy areas. 6)More than 50% driving in heavy City Traffic during Hot weather above 90 degrees. 6) Driving in Mountainous areas. 7) Towing a Trailer. 8)Driving a Car for Commercial use. 9) Driving over 100 MPH. And why did I mention the Appearance Package, which includes Fabric Protection w/ Warranty, Gloss treatment, 3M Accent Pin Stripes, 3M Wheel well Molding, and 3M Door edge Guards & goes for $1495, (part of the Aftermarket sticker on the Right, which no one in their right mind should even consider paying for) is because they did add all this 'stuff', and I am sure it cost's the Dealership less than $100, and some people will look at this supplemental part of the Sticker and negotiate from that downward!
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    In about a Month you will get the packet I referred too, it will answer some questions. Yes, don't believe everything the Dealers says, the same when you pull into the Car Wash. Some of those guys will tell you that you need to Wax your Car every Month, some will tell you every 3 or 4 Months. When the Water dosent bead anymore, Wax it. And about the Warranty, listen up on this. It's best if possible to make 'friends' with your Servicing Dealer. I assume in your case that will be hard to do, because of proximity problems. I bought a used 88 Hyundai in 91, and the previous owner had bought a 7 Year, 75,000 Warranty, and this is back when Hyundai only offered a 3/36, or a 2/24 Warranty. I made great friends at this Shop, and they repaired & replaced everything for me, some things like the Timing Belt that hadn't even broke yet. Is this somewhat wrong, yes, however now that Car Manufactures are offering these 10 Year Warrienties, they have become a lot stricter on their servicing requirements, go to Google, or CNN money, and look for these topics!
  • john_wjohn_w Member Posts: 72
    I had heard that one should vary the speed on a new car, and I did this some while driving home 200 miles, but the variation was mostly in the range of a conservative highway driver.

     

    I may not feel as uptight about caring for my new car as I come across in written form. Then, again, there are places I’d go with my old beater Honda that I do feel reluctant to take my “perfect” car. If money were no object, I’d buy a used 4W to take on rougher trips. (I say that my ’83 Honda died, but more precisely I killed it.)

     

    From discussions on this and other boards, it’s obvious (and not surprising) that making friends with the dealer is sometimes going to result in better treatment. Living in a remote, rural area has its advantages and disadvantages.
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    used the Cruise Control, kept things steady... Right off the Bat you have gone against Backy's & the Factories advice. Hopefully you would do 60MPH, then drop down to 55MPH, go up past 60 to 65MPG, down to 50MPH, etc. I have had the 2005 Elantra since 11/9/04, and just last Week I took a 300 Mile trip, and used the steady technique. Sure I only had 650 Miles on the Car at the start of the trip, but that was over a 7 Week break in Period, giving the Engine Parts a chance to 'seat'. By the way, what year is your Car, and did it have that Add On sticker with the Items I mentioned (the Scotch guard, Clear Coat, 3M Stuff? Every Car I have bought in both California & Florida has had it, and most people pay for it. What was the Sticker price of your Car, not the MSRP Sticker, the part that detaches on the Right of the Sticker, and yes certain states don't allow this. Also, what Driving Condition from my post above do you think you will be in, Severe, or not Severe, and why?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I follow the "severe" service recommendations for my cars (the Hyundai-recommended services, not all the add-ons my dealer tries to sell me), because of short trips, salt etc. But I only put about 7000 miles a year on one car (that's two oil changes a year) and 10,000 on the other (3 oil changes a year). I have just said "no" on the "appearance" packages dealers have tried to sell me over the years because I feel they are a waste of money. If the car already has pinstripes etc., I tell the dealer I don't want them and to please take them off. (Of course, it's cheaper for them just to leave them on and not charge me for them.) I can buy a bottle of wax that lasts a couple of years for $7.00 and a can of 3M Scotchgard that costs $10 and can do several cars. Interestingly, the dealer did not try to sell me an "appearance" package on either Elantra I bought from them. They did try to sell me an extended warranty and maintenance package, however. I got them to throw in 3 years of free maintenance on my '04 GT; they tried to charge me $399 for it.
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    That added $1495 Package goes on most Cars Across America, and for every 9 People who say forget it, one will buy into it. And since these treatments are already put on, they can't take them off, however I'm sure a Dealer or two has tried to pull of someone's Pin Stripes. I will say what helps are those Door Edge Guards included in the Package. My SUV would hit a wall, and you would hear the grind of Paint on the Door Edge. About Severe Maintainence conditions, I also don't put on many miles, however Oil does breakdown, so 7000 Miles/Twice a Year is pushing it. I had an "agreement" with my Subaru Service Manager if I used the Turbo Blended Oil, I would be OK. However, if you have a Mechanical failure, technically a Shop that doesn't know you, or want to know you to do Warranty work can say you did not follow the 3 Months/3K requirement.
  • lee_wlee_w Member Posts: 239
    Please take these discussions to the Maintenance Board or Owners Club. I will be deleting any new off topic posts. This board is for prices paid and buying experience! Thank you>
  • timmythebonetimmythebone Member Posts: 18
    Just purchased 2005 Elantra GT Hatchback Automatic w moonroof, ABS, Traction, in tidal wave. Sticker Price $17,539 Paid $14,660 including taxes,tags. Just wondering if I was in the ballpark or not?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    It looks like a good price, but it's hard to tell with the taxes and tages included. How much were the taxes and tags? And did you qualify for the Hyundai customer loyalty rebate?
  • gomoku_2000gomoku_2000 Member Posts: 7
    Good morning all.

     

    I am in Central Florida. I have been quoted $14,700 for a new 04 Elantra hatchback with A/T. This is the dealer's "out-the-door Internet price". ABS not included, and apparently "hard to get".

     

    Questions: 1) Is this a fair price, or even a really good one? 2) It being year end and all, would it be reasonable of me to negotiate? If so, has anybody here paid less than $14K, say $13.5? 3) Are Internet prices typically firmer than others, meaning "no haggle" is understood? 4) If I offered cash, should I expect a better deal?

     

    Thanks in advance.
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