Air Conditioning

robertp4

I have a 2002 Corolla Type S. The A/I could be folder. The Freon was a little low a half pound, and was added. However I still feel that the A/I could be folder and that the compressor cycles constantly.
I need help.

Mr_Shiftright

Has anyone measured the temperature at the a/c outlet? Just "feeling colder" isn't an indication of something wrong, since people have different sensitivities and tolerances of temperature. If you measure the temp, then you have something to go on as far as diagnosis. If the temperature is well within specification, then you know that that is all this particular car can do for you; it it's warmer than specification, you and the dealer know they have to get it back to spec.

[Deleted User]

My concern would be why was it a half lb low on freon.
Was the system checked for a leak?

mbbstims

To Mr. Shiftright or anyone:

I am thinking of buying a 2002 Corolla but I can't decide if I should get A/C or not.I am concerned that while the A/C is on the engine will run hotter and contribute to head gasket trouble.Also, are there any repairs to other parts of the engine which might necessitate the removal of the A/C pump and therefore contribute to the overall cost of the repair job?

Thank you' mbbstims

Mr_Shiftright

I suppose a/c does put more strain on an engine and, in fact, does get in the way of repairs, but I don't feel these compromises are enough to warrant deleting the a/c from your car. Moreover, you'll realize better resale from a car with a/c, as most buyers expect it.

I don't think overheating is an issue unless you lose all common sense, such as running uphill at high speed towing a boat in 100 degree weather....yep, for sure, that Corolla is gonna howl about that!

As for increasing maintenance costs, maybe we are talking about an extra hour or two of labor once in a blue moon. So what's that, $100 every 5 years? Not a big deal really.

adc100

Its possible that when the new freon was put in the hose was not properly purged of air. Air in the system will cause the higher temperatures. Its also possible that its cycling on high pressure because of the air. On the other hand it could still be cycling on low pressure-meaning that its still low on charge. I believe under this condition the inlet into the evaporator (the cold line) will be very cold- but there is not enough freon in the system to handle the load. You need the gauges to determine your problem. (In my oinion).

Oh-some vehicles have a sight glass down stream of the compressor. If there are bubbles there you are low on charge. I'm not a true professionel here-so this is not gospel.

mbbstims- You are like I used to be 20 years ago with your concerns. Relax-get the AC, be comfortable and dont worry about problems that probably are not gonna' happen.

mbbstims

Thanks for your info on A/C = overheating.I have pretty much decided to get A/C in my Corolla.maybe I should have the head bolts torqued every 60 or 70 K.

mbbstims

robertp4

My mechanic checked the system and found it to be 1/2 pound low. So in went the 1/2 pound. The problem seems to be that the compressor cycles on and off too often.Any suggestions?

elail1

We have a 97 Buick Park Avenue and it recently had to have a new fan motor because the airconditioner condensation collected and it shorted out. Before then every time the steering wheel was turned it sounded like a rush of water. The noise is happening again and now the a/c is leaking into the passenger side with enough water to soak all the way to the rear floor board. Has any one had this problem and how was it corrected.
elail1

dp89jp

Elail1, Sounds like you may have a clogged drain line.
Hope it is that simple. Good luck.

jasjim

My blower motor (heater/air conditioner) does not go on in position 1 and 2. Positions 3, 4, 5 work fine. There are several relays under the hood with good diagrams as to what is what. Some of the relays are the same. I swapped relays, checked fuses but nothing changed. Is it possible that the dashboard switch is bad?? or is there a fusible link wire in there somewhere?

Jim

spokane

The blower motor speed is regulated by a resistor bank. In the lowest speed, the circuit is made through a series of 4 resistors. In the second speed, the selector switch connects through only 3 resistors, etc. At full speed, battery voltage is applied to the motor. Your problem could be the blower speed selector switch or the resistance bank. The resistor bank gets hot in any speed other than "High" so for safety reasons it is located in the air plenum; probably beneath the dashboard or possibly in the engine compartment. It has a five-wire connector so it shouldn't be hard to find and remove. Check connections and see that all four resistors are OK. If this is not the problem, replace the selector switch. That's not difficult either, but you may need help seeing just how the trim panel comes off to get to it. Good luck.

waitnon2002

I recently purchased a 2001 ford suv that was used and when I bought it, the A/C didn't smell, but since I live in arizona, I use the maximum/recirculate setting. I have heard that it can cause moisture to build up in the A/C unit somewhere and then cause mildew to grow. I am guessing that I am experiencing this problem because I now get a musty smell when using the A/C. Is there a way to fix it without costly repair or will I just have to take it in? Any help would be appreciated.

acuraowner

The only way to prevent (and sometimes cure like in my case) is to switch to fresh air a few minutes before you turn the vehicle off and if conditions permit turn the a/c all the way off a few minutes before you get home but leave the fan on. There may be a problem with your drain because I dont feel it should have mildewed up that quick.