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Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications

tipsicobobtipsicobob Posts: 29
edited April 2014 in Oldsmobile
I just installed a spoiler on my 2001 aurora. It came prepainted (white diamond) from The color matched perfectly and it is of very high quality. It totally changes the appearance of the car and I get numerous questions from other Aurora owners. It was relatively easy to install.


  • It took me about an hour to install the spoiler. The instructions are very clear. The toughest part of the job is to make the outboard 2 attachments thru an access hole in the inner panel. Of course I dropped a screw between the inner and outer panel which I then had to painstakingly fish out with a magnet. If I had taken my time and used a magnetic nut driver to install the screw, it would not have fallen between the two panels. The rest is a piece of cake!
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Has anyone used a K&N air filter in their 4.0 Aurora? I was wondering if anyone had positive results (seat-of-the-pants or whatever) with it. I've used them on other cars with sucess but was wondering if the Aurora benefits from the breathing.

    It looks like the filter is the same as on some 3.1/3.4/3.8 liter GM motors. This would make me think better breathing would help since the 4.0 probably gulps more air than the 6-bangers. The filter is definitely the same as on the 3.5 Aurora, although perhaps the 3.5 just gets more air than it needs...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I noticed this company that makes a rear suspension add-on for Auroras. I don't know if anyone is interested in an air suspension for load-bolstering or anything, but I'll put it out there.

    Summit Racing has it for less than the price advertised by the manufacturer.

    I believe the 2001-2002 Aurora has a load-leveling rear of sorts, although I'm not sure how it works (not by air, I believe).

  • Most Oldsmobiles have had air suspension for quite a while. All Auroras do. My Toronado does. The 1985 Regency I used to have did. It's pretty common because they can offer a smoother ride without having the headlights point to the sky with a full load.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Is that the buzzing sound when the Aurora is started up? It comes from the rear. I just figured it was the ABS self-testing. Why is there no attachment from the air pump for inflating things? That would be rather handy. Odd that they use an air rear for the Aurora as it is supposed to be more sporty. Air suspensions are softer, and allow for level loading, however they don't provide much stability in cornering. Thanks for the info. I had no idea. I wondered how they offered a "load-leveling" rear. The owner's manual and brochures make no mention of how this is executed.
  • If the humming stops after a few seconds, you might also be hearing the fuel pump in the rear as they are now electric and almost always located in the gas tank.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I'm jumping here from the main board:

    Another difference between bolt-on superchargers and factory jobs is that the engine management is made to work with the charger. Most factory jobs have some means (through bleed-off or clutches on the blower) to essentially remove the boost in low-load conditions. This saves the constant stress on the engine of a boosted intake charge. If you've ever watched the boost gauge on a 3800 SC, it is usually around 0-1psi until you dig into it. Bolt-on superchargers usually have no way of doing this as the blower doesn't know if it's a light or heavy load without talking to the computer.

    Another cheap way to get some extra performance would be to try replacing your platinum plugs with something better. Usually platinum plugs don't give optimal performance. If you don't mind changing/checking plugs more often, you might get a boost from some AC Delco Rapidfires or Split-fires and maybe a less restrictive air filter.
  • The Aurora uses air shocks similar to millions of GM cars built over the last 30 years. It's very effective in that it not only levels the vehicle under load, but also raises the rear spring rate as the load goes up. The base suspension is tuned for the character of the car regardless of the air shocks--so there is no real inherent need to be floaty or mushy just because it has load leveling or air shocks.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I found this company that performs mods to the Northstar and Aurora engines. It's not the slickest site I've seen, but check it out if you want.
    And here is another Aurora mod site
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Does anyone use winter tires on their Aurora? I am thinking of getting a set from the Tire Rack. I drive my Aurora year-round, and I would like more security in bad weather, plus I don't want to mess up the wheels from salt or from smacking a curb. I was wondering what experience anyone else had with winter tires, or with all-season tires in the snow.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I used a set of Bridgestone Blizzaks on my Ford Probe GT. They changed the car from a no-go-in-the-snow, ice skate into a car that rivaled my Jeep Cherokee in the snow -- at least until the snow got as high as the front air dam. ;-)

    Seriously, the Blizzaks are an incredible product and really did make the Probe into a very road worthy snow and ice driver. The technology of the Blizzak uses a rubber compound that is actually able to grip ice (without studs). There was one time when I had to stop on a ice covered hill, and I was able to start back up the hill easily -- while the two Chevy 4x4s in front of me slipped sideways over the shoulder.

    if it turns out that my Aurora isn't good enough in the snow this year (my first winter with it), it too will feel the magic of Blizzaks!

    Jim C
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I originally posted this on the Aurora Main Discussion board, but this is probably a better place -- maybe I'll get some more feedback here!

    Anyone here replaced the shocks and springs on a classic? I'd really like to make mine handle a little better. KYB makes a set of shocks for the fronts (it looks like you can't replace the rears?) and Eibach makes a set of springs that lower the car about an inch.

    It gets my goat that a friends 15 year old BMW 6-series with 180K miles can out-handle my car.

    Comments or experiences, anyone?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I replaced my stock shocks with the KYB's and put in thicker sway bars in the fon and back, These changes, along with Z rated tires improved the handling of the car. I would not recommend rplaceing th back shocks with anything but the Delco shocks if you are going to keep the load leveing system.

    If you are going to defeat the LLS in favor of better handleing, then ther are a number of options open to you. I was not willing to disable the LLS because it was a feature of the car that I like.


    P.S. If you have other questions, talk to me on the main board, I rarly check this one.
  • Henry - where did you get the sway bars and KYBs? I need to replace my front struts anyways, so I'd just as well go with the KYBs. Also, what was the approximate cost?
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134 has the KYB GR-2 Shocks (actually struts)for the Aurora listed at $70 each.

    The Eibach spring set is $248.

    They don't seem to have the sway bars.

    PS: Thanks for your info, Henry. I tried searching for "shocks" but didn't find anything in the main board. weird....
  • Are the springs lower or just stiffer? I'm not sure I want to lower my car.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The springs lower the car. I do not think it is a good idea to lower a Classic. As it is that black air deflector will hit the ground without too much effort at all. It will definitly be a memory if you lower the car. I personally would not recommend it.

    The sawy bars are from the Cadillac and you can get them from your delaership. I have a 95 so I upgraded to the later year sway bars for the front and the Caddie bar for the back.
    I do believe if you look harder at the caddie line, you can find even thicker bars than the ones I brought for my Classic.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    Henry brings up a good point about that front air deflector.

    The Eibach springs lower the Aurora about 1.3" in front and 1.0" in the rear.

    You'd have to be real careful with curbs, etc., but the extra stiffness of the springs might offset the problem of reduced clearance while driving due to eliminating some "bounce".

    I guess I'm gonna have to think more about the springs.

    Henry: about the Caddy sway bars -- I take it the sway bars are from the STS? How much did the dealer whack you for 'em?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I do not remember how much the bars costs, but it wasn't that much. the cost wan in the labor. Also, you will need to buy new bushings if you upgrade the bars.


    Was the modification ever done???????
  • Aurora Air Intake Mod. on 2001 or 02

    After seeing the post on the for AURORA AIR MODIFICATION and HP gain, I looked at mine and came up with the same end result but did it differently.

    I did not use the Dremmel tool because I did not want to disturb the factory set up. What I did was to remove on the top of air filter, front and back part, then on the front air intake, the plastic round piece that sticks out thru the front part of the fender where air enters the Air Intake system is removed.
    Then inside the air chamber,I set off to the side the Siemens aluminum box, it just slips out and over, then I remove to the side the plastic flexible tubing that houses the wires to the Siemens unit.

    Then I removed the round plastic horn looking thing that looks like a trumpet horn except it is that way on both ends. It is the path where the air goes in on the bottom side of air filter. Removing that, it clears the path.

    The hole at the front of the car is 3 1/2 inches round I believe where the air enters the air filter chamber. The slot at the back of the air chamber is square in shape. I needed something that would be flexible to accomodate both shapes and handle the air flow and heat of the engine.

    I decided to use(try) as an experiment- a flexible 4 inch piece of a Dryer exhaust heat hose. It is very flexible, has metal support rings that flex, it easy to manipulate and is cheap to purchase and handles heat well. I used a new piece from a 50 foot roll I used leftover from the laundry room. I had nothing to lose.

    It seems to work well. At the square end of the air chamber(back) with the tube will require a little shaping with your hands, the front end you have to do a little pulling thru the front fender hole but it can be done with folding the first 5 or 6 metal winds together longways and pulling it thru the front. It did take me 3 tries at it before I got it done as the plastic hose is durable but not indestructible. It may work better with a 3 1/2 inch hose for shaping.

    After I got it all in, I used Black Duct tape and wrapped all areas of the 4" dryer hose from the top as it is installed and used duct tape to seal the front and back of the supply tube and all edges for supports from all sides. Since the duct tape will not be exposed to the elements, I do not anticipate any major rot of the duct tape but will get a monthly inspection.

    Then re-install the Siemens unit and plastic flex hose back. The "weep" holes in the air chamber still exist for any moisture to escape.

    I know it sounds like a "rig deal" but seems to work well and it is cheap and easy to do WITHOUT DESTROYING the factory air filter chamber.
    FYI, I also installed the K&N Filter in it at a cost of $40 and change.

    Good Luck, good hunting and good fishing...

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Just post in one board or the other please. I hate getting faked out by two posts of the same message...

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Anybody try any headlight bulb changes like PIAA or Catz bulbs? They are supposed to be brighter than stock without using more watts. Plus they have a whiter output. However, when they make those comparisons, it is to crappy halogen bulbs, not necessarily the factory bulbs in the Aurora (they might already be nice ones). Just wondering what sort of results anyone had.
  • I've gotten a great deal on a 400 watt inverter (12 VDC to 120 VAC converter), only $15 at SAM's Club.

    However, it's a nuisance permanently "connected" to the cigarette lighter or accessory power 'jack'. (It comes with post terminals and bracket for permanent mounting, electrically and physically.) Is there a way to wire this in using one of the "Unused" fuse connections? What would be the best way of wiring this in? I've thought of affixing it to the roof of the trunk just behind the rear seat, but I don't want to be too invasive.

    In summary, what's the best way to install this item, both physically and electrically. I want this to be integrated, but not invasive. (Sounds a little contradictory, doesn't it.)

  • Be carefull with that "aluminum box". It's the powertrain computor. It is in the air intake system in order to stay cool--nor does it like to get wet. Years ago these used to be inside the vehicle but that entailed lots of wires passing through the firewall--plus there was no way to cool them--they generate a lot of heat these days!
  • Well, did a revised version of the airbox mod to my 98 this weekend. Man, do I love the sound the car makes now - it actually sounds like a V-8!

    Noticably more torque at highway speeds. I didn't try to spin the wheels cuz the Michelins are too expensive to burn like that =).

    All I did was remove the top (white) plastic piece and pull out the insert in the bottom which has that weird bottom piece and ducts air from the fender. I might do some cutting on that and put it back in just to get a better duct from the side fender - but so far the air temps seemed to be about the same.

    But, I was an idiot and forgot to hook the IAT sensor back up and my service engine light is now on. Hopefully that will clear itself in a day or so.

    Also installed a K&N airfilter at the same time. Had to leave off the gasket that it came with because the lid wouldn't latch with it installed.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Garnes, I checked out that picture of the 2001 on Caddyinfo. It looks pretty nice. The tips are pretty fat. I wonder if they look a bit too big from the rear view (I prefer subtlety in mods). Do you have any idea who's car it was, and what their results were with the Corsa system? I really think that the Corsa is one modification I might consider, provided it doesn't adversely affect cruising noise. I like the chrome tips that are on my car already, though. One of these days I'll have to take the airbox apart and have a look at it...
  • Has anyone installed the GM "Aurora" splash guards. My Oldmosbile dealer has them on sale for $ 15.00, per set.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I have seen them. Let me know if you put them on. I sort of wonder if they would look ok. They have the little Aurora symbol on them, so I kind of think they will look a bit over-the-top. However, it would be nice if they work well. Do they require any holes to be put in the body?
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