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Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications



  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I saw the wheels but I dont see the mod to the headlights. What mod you talking about dogg?

    By the way, I hate the wheels (that was said with Aurora love). I personally only like the factory wheels or the 2001 wheels on the Classic.

    Javi, when you replaced the radio did you lose the steering wheel controls and some of the DIC functions? I always thought the date would no longer work if you lost the clock on the radio.

    Please fill us all in. I want to replace the headend, but was afraid I would lose DIC functions and steering wheel controls.

  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    In Reply To:

    By the way, I hate the wheels (that was said with Aurora love). I personally only like the factory wheels or the 2001 wheels on the Classic.


    That statement just does not sound Aurorian sportmanship or with Aurora love.

    A nice set of wheels that are bigger and wider and full of chrome are better than stock.

    I think my wheels are decent, they have a spoke pattern like, that give it a sport look.

    Also I rather go for the custom look, why pay for some Olds, Aurora wheels, when you can get bigger ones for about the same price.

    As for the radio, yeah you are going to loose some controls features like the steering wheel controls (heater and volume) and the date in the DIC.

    I found out that there is a harness that you can buy at for about $79.99 that's suppose to make some controls in the steering wheel work.

    About the quarter light mod, I'm in the proccess of find out more about it, I'll see if I can do it to my Aurora.


    In Reply To:

    I noticed that you have 235/40/18 tires on yours. Most people reccomend 235/50/18. do you still get a good ride with the 40's or should I go with 50's? The reason I ask you is because your wheels fit the car perfectly and I would like to mimic your exact wheel size.


    The 235/40/18 are perfect for me, some people like to go with the 50's.

    I say go with the 50's, I'm sure a lot of people would recommend them, the reason I went with the 40's is because these wheels originaly came off my previous 1999 Intrigue, so the wheels and tires would fit my Aurora perfectly, plus it gave it the low-profile look too. Right now I'm in the process of selling these wheels too, going for bigger ones.

    These 40 series tires performed well specially coming off the expressway at 40 MPH.

    You fine either way.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    It's too bad that in a free marketplace of ideas, a guy can't say he hates some wheels without being taken to task. He hates them. So what? You are not your wheels. It's not personal. Everybody is not going to like everything.

    Me, I wanted some nicer wheels because I think the stock wheels are a little bland. I looked at aftermarket wheels, and quite honestly most of what I saw was big and ugly - just my HO. Bigger is not always better. Flashier is not always better. Some of the wheels I saw available would probably slice and dice meat and vegetables better than anything Ronco could ever invent - all the while blinding you with all that chrome. He should really check out these wheel shops for his next kitchen invention idea.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Why would you lose the temperature and fan controls? I understand the volume and radio/CD controls. So now the steering wheel controls on your car are purely decorative. Not Good.


    P.S. Thanks Greg
  • I kinda of like his rims. I bet they look better in person.
    The first couple of pics look ok, but the chromes are shining to much to see the detail. I think theylook much sharper in this pic. I like it. I don't want'em but I like it.


    Not everyone is going to like everything. That's why theres chocolate and vanilla.
    Some people like to put rims in every ride, me I like to put systems in my rides.
    I think I'll also put in a intake kit on each ride too.
    I thought hard about getting some custom rims instead of the stock chromes
    back in the fall. The price per rim isn't the killer it's good tires that gets you.
    Price wasn't the only reason, I think of it as my stock looking sleeper, minus exhaust. Maybe next car I'll get me some rims.
    It's already going to inherit my current system, execpt I'll get it installed with a nice fiberglass install.
    Harder to steel too, Don't want my car to get jacked because the flashy rims cought some theifs eye.
  • Yes without the extra 75 dollar stereo harness, none of the steering wheel conrols work. As I understand it, that it WILL keep the heater side working too. It kind of bothered me at first not opting to get it installed with everything else.
    BUT, the first time I heard what my stereo sounded like, I didn't care. I never used the heat controls anyways, sometimes used the stereo seek. Anyways, reaching my arm forward isn't an incovience. I like touching the knob of the Alpine, holding 800watts on demand makes me feel special sometimes. Of course it came with a remote, sometimes I'm lazy and drive with the remote in lap. The remote has a nice range, I'll sometime open all the doors and trunk and jam it at some outside partys we have and conrtol it from a nice disance.
    You see, I forgot I ever even had it stereing wheel controls. That chocolate and vanilla thing again.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I like Strawberry cheescake myself.

    Just one of the 31 flavors.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Personally I don't care for the aftermarket wheel look either. Usually the wheel is some crazy design that really doesn't compliment the car's shape. Just because you have a neat looking wheel and a neat looking car doesn't mean they will look neat together. Plus, I've always though the super large rims look a bit absurd. Plus, they are heavier and ride rougher. There is no way I'd pay extra to worsen my ride and performance just to change a look.

    That said, sometimes different wheels look good. But they have to be chosen carefully. I've always thought the ZR-1 5-spoke wheels look great on any '84+ Corvette. And they look sweet on the Camaro SS's. I thought the Aurora 17"s looked great on the CE Intrigue and they looked good on Greg's 'Roara. I thought those classic Tork-Thrust-looking wheels on that white new Aurora looked neat (although just a little bit odd). But I would say 90% of the time I don't like aftermarket wheels. But again, this is just my opinion. Everyone is entitled to their own and to voice their own. No one should take offense or feel bad because of it (and no one should voice their opinion in a mean or rude way).

    I'm also not big on body kits or lowering the car for similar reasons. Rarely do the body kits accentuate the body. They typically just add overt racyness that doesn't really jive with the rest of the car. It's like the cladding they slap on Pontiacs. It looks so slapped on... And they tend to worsen the aerodynamics of the car (how many body kit companies do you think rent a wind tunnel?) and can often add wind noise to the cockpit. So again, I wouldn't pay extra to worsen the ride just for the look.

    But I bet some people might think I'm odd for pulling off a perfectly nice, new exhaust system from my car only to replace it with a louder one (and pay extra in the process).
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    In Reply To:______________________________________________________________- - ______

    Why would you lose the temperature and fan controls? I understand the volume and radio/CD controls. So now the steering wheel controls on your car are purely decorative. Not Good.


    _________________________________________________________________- - ______

    I was just about to write, what 800wattaurora wrote about the controls.

    The Fan & Temp controls for some reason are in the same wiring that the volume is in the steering wheel.

    Even thought I might not have 800 watts on my system, I do have a credit card style remote control, which is quite nice because as it is I don't like to touch my glossy black Kenwood eXcelon unit.

    After a while I just forgot about the steering wheel controls.

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I really wanted to get the pioneer stereo awhile back. Zinc1 was even nice enough to use photoshop to "install" the Pioneer in the dash so I could see how it would look.

    Why didn't I do it?

    The pioneer has a brushed metal silver face and blue lighting that would have made the stereo stand out too much from the black dashboard. (I live in a big city, if you get my drift.) Also, I would lose the steering wheel controls and the date off the DIC. Altough, until now, the loss of the date function was only a theory based on the time being in the radio.

    The funny thing is a few months/years back when I told people about the potential loss of the date due to the loss of the radio, one guy just could not understand the connection between the time on the radio and the dateon the DIC.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I would like you guys to see the Pioner I am talking about. Can I send one of you the picture and have you post it on the photo board??

  • whoever was asking about the tires for the 18's. do not listen to the reccomendations. I did and now I am screwed . I used to have 235/40/18 and my car ran I have the 235/50/18 and MY car immediately began to struggle more to get going .this obviously cant be good for the do not use 235/50/18 makes the car taller than stock .Maybe a 245/45/18
  • Thaks for the info Seth. I will go with the 40 series.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277

    soon this will be me: image
  • I am considering putting in the RSM Racing air intake. I just wanted to get some feed from others that have put it in and have been using it for sometime.

    800Wattaurora- I see that you have had yours for a while and you state that it idles and runs just as well as a stock air intake. Are you still happy with it or have you had any type of problems. Also is the heat sheild necessary or will I have problems if I dont build one?
  • I've had ZERO problems with my intake kit or throttle body. Go for it. The heatshield is not necesary, I choose to build one. Now I know that I'm getting fresh air. I would recomend screening up the 2 fender holes, though. I would check for water when I first put it in and there would be some in that area. Filter was dry, but I could see a couple of splash marks on the intake piping. With the srceens in place, splashing is better and no more leaves. Remember that the stock air box takes in some water too, don't be too conserned.

    You should spend the extra cash and get their ported throttle body. This puts the gain more across the board and noticeable to you. Intake helps more on the high end. With both your car will have a different personality. It also adds a little more Growl coming from under the hood, I like how it sounds, then I put on the Corsa exhaust on and I growl from the front and the back. I'm into good sounds, that why I'm a stereo addict as well, If you don't already know.

    Oh ya, If your going for the ported TB too, spend an extra 100 and get the TB plate behind it ported as well. (Not listed) Worth a couple low end numbers.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I agree with most everything Taylor (800wattaurora) said. We basically worked together on the same mods - intake, TB, and Corsa exhaust.

    My opinion on the intake is that if you do the cone filter like Taylor, you should also do the heat shield like he did. I just think the possibility to pull hot air off the engine is too great without it and hot air will hurt power. There is a post on caddyinfo about the performance of a cone filter (on a caddy though) and it lost a little power. I think virtually most of the gain is from the K&N filter media itself. I also think RSM should work with Taylor to implement his heat shield. It's better than what I've seen from K&N on their FIPK kits.

    I opted to just gut the air box and open up the bottom larger to match the existing hole below and use the K&N panel filter. I dyno'd it (results and pictures on and it performed well - perhaps about as good as the cold air intake. And I know I always have fresh air too. I also like the fact that the intake duct matches the MAF diameter. You can also pull the sleeve out of the duct and file the edge off of it to smooth the air flow. If you look in there the sleeve creates a large bump in the flow path. I've been really happy with the intake.

    The RSM throttle body is great. Taylor and I have both dyno tested it and the thing works. It's not that hard and does add power throughout the power band. With the intake and throttle body, the car is different. Probably in the 270 HP range. If you ever do the throttle body, get the mounting plate (or plenum) piece between it and the intake manifold and have RSM bore that to 80 mm too. Again, these jobs are not hard - Taylor coached me through.

    Do the Corsa exhaust and the Aurora gets mean, but is still a totally quite luxury machine on the highway or cruising around town. It's an incredible exhaust system with the quiet cruise.
  • Thanks for the info guys. I am deffinately doing the TB (and plenum). And I am going to go with the RSM air intake just because it just looks cooler. I can live with doing the heat sheild and screening for that.
    For the exhaust I have read in some previous messages that people have had good things to say about the Dynomax turbo mufflers. I guess I will go that route and keep the exhaust pretty much stock. I just want a better sound and a little more flow , but I cant justify spending the loot for the Corsa. Although that is a dream of mine because that system does sound awsome.
    Once it gets a little warm here in Minneapolis I will be doing the TB and air intake jobs. Taylor Im sure you will be hearing from me then for a little instructional help.

    Thanks Gentelmen
  • No problem on the info, email me anytime,, you can call me if you have/want to. I'll send you a copy of the install instructions.
    Garnes is so right on saying how the car transforms with this mods. Whole new animal. Figure 290hp with everything. You should be fine with the Dynomax mufflers, but get the overal pipe diameter increased to 2.5 from cat back, stock I believe is 2 1/8 and smaller in the y-pipe back. Corsa is 2.5 stainless throughout.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    If you just went dynomax and increased all the piping to 2.5, you would probably get some great results for power. The stock resonator is straight through, but is small and has some sort of crappy perforated hokey sleeve thing in it as well. It really seems like it would screw with gas flow at higher rpms. If you can lose the resonator and it's not too loud for you - go for it. Others have replace the resonator with another high-flow, straight-through large diameter muffler. That probably mellows it out and still maintains the high performance.

    Good luck.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I am so freaking pleased with this Corsa system, it is just crazy. I want to drive over to each of your houses and take you for a spin so someone will share the experience with me (my wife thinks it sounds nice, but obviously doesn't care as much as me). I had class tonight, so I got to drive it an appreciable distance (about 35 miles). It is sooo great. When you cruise at under 55, there is a bit of a note you hear. But, it gets less and less the faster you go. Above 65 and the cruise is very hard to distinguish from stock (and below 65 it isn't objectionable, but it is louder). When you get on it, the sound is deep, smooth, and burbly. It sounds soo awesome. I'd say it sounds like a muscle car, but in fact it sounds better than a lot of muscle cars. It has more of a smoothness and a very well-defined burble that many muscle cars don't have. Plus, there is zero resonance. The sound is just incredible.

    As far as performance, I can honestly say that this one mod made the most noticeable performance difference of anything I've ever bought. The part-throttle punch is noticeably stronger, and it peels out for about twice as long as before. Full throttle feels stronger and the car revs quickly. On the good shifts (still haven't figured out how it picks the shift points) it snaps off at about 6400 rpm instead of the previous 6200.

    To quantify my initial statement about the performance, I'd put Flowmasters, a cross-over rear Y-pipe, a larger front Y-pipe that removed two cats, a cold-air induction kit, SLP intake runners, and a performance MAF on my Corvette (maybe more, but I can't think of any. Oh, it had a Hypertech chip, pulleys, and a K&N already when I bought it). None of those mods added as noticeable a performance boost as this Corsa has. The SLP runners felt strong, as did the larger front Y minus the cats. But the Corsa feels like it made a more obvious difference. Maybe this is because the Corvette was already a torque monster and had a weak top end that no bolt-ons could fix (10 fewer hp than the Aurora, but 85 lb-ft more torque)? Or maybe it's just because the Corvette is more distant in my memory. I don't know. I do know the Aurora sounds better than the Corvette did (the Corvette sounded louder and more aggressive and was definitely cool, but it had a drone to it and wasn't as burbly). So I am just floored by the Corsa. It sounds so damn cool, but then quiets down when you want it to.
  • What do you figure was the total costs was?
    How many of your hours involved and did you have to buy anything extra locally to make it all work.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Long time since we've heard from you! I hope all is well! The Corsa system was about $1030 with shipping. And I bought a $20 exhaust cutter because I couldn't find a store that loans them. Trak Auto used to loan tools, but they closed up. All in all I probably spent about 8 hours on it. Not that many all at once, though, but tweaking the tips and retightening everything after a drive. Initially probably 6 hours to jack the car, cut and remove the stock setup, and attach the Corsa (with a lunch break). But it took some tweaking to attach because at first I didn't think it would fit. So someone else could probably do it in less time since they'll have some feedback on it.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Glad you like it. I was amazed too. However, at a steady cruise, my 98 is extremely quiet at any speed. I don't notice any additional tone around 55 or whatever. But your impressions are basically the same as mine. I personally think a lot of the stock exhaust systems out there are a crime now that I've had this.

    NOW - get someone to rev it for you, or drive away. Oh man. It sad you don't get that experience as the driver. You will flip.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I was talking to my mechanic today and we both agreed taht somewhere out there someone has put the caddie 4.6 northstar in the Aurora. But who and where he is nobody knows. Maybe one day he will find our little group.

    Hey you Corsa guys, it is the next logical step.
    Your Corsa system reunited with the 4.6?

    Garnes, 800watts, Javi ?????
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    That sounds awesome! I think it backs up the Hot Rodders line that there are few mods you can make to a car that give you better bang for the buck than a well designed exhaust system.
    (Everything you said about the Corsa on your Aurora I found after I put a Borla system on my Ford Probe. I know it sounds like two completely different applications, but the two motors are similar in being much more highly tuned right from the factory than most. I wish I could afford to put the Corsa on my Aurora too, but I just can't justify the $1000. (The Probe's Borla only cost $450!) I guess I'll be doing DynoMax or some mild Flowmasters.

    Anyway, congrats! I know exactly how you feel, it's like driving a whole new car, isn't it?
    Now get out there and womp on some "fast and the furious" wannabes!


    PS: Being that it's a "cat-back" system, shouldn't the Subject line be "Holy Cats"? Egad. Bad joke!
  • I am thinking about changing out the mufflers for something that gives more power without a lot more noise. I DO NOT want my wife to notice an increase in noise if possible. I hear of brands like Dynomax and Flowmasters used. What would be my best choice for something I can do locally as far as muffler replacement?

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Henry - the next logical step is for YOU get the Corsa system.

    Aurora5000 - any free flowing exhaust improvement is going to make it louder. There is no way around it. However there are a lot of differences in sound quality. Raspy and blatty (even if not really loud) will offend. I have a hunch the Corsa system is the best thing going for the Northstar. It's literally tuned for the engine. At idle or cruise is virtually stock quiet. The added sound under throttle is not rude or anything. It sounds really nice - kind of like hearing a muscle car, but smoother.

    That's about all I can say. I was VERY worried about being loud and I LOVE the Corsa system. My wife thinks it's plenty quiet and really doesn't even notice. If you get this, the car will not be embarrassing or anything. Road trips will be pretty much stock quiet.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    If you go with typical baffled or packed mufflers, the only real way to get less restriction is to allow more sound through. To some extent, better materials and designs also play a role, but when you are talking about Flowmaster or Dynomax, they are probably similar in tech to the OEM mufflers. Dynomaxs will probably have a similar sound if you get a similar size, but they will also probably have similar restriction to the OEM exhaust. If you step up to larger or freer Dynomax's, you will get more sound. Same with the Flowmasters. They have a series of quietish mufflers, but I'd bet they would still be a fair amount louder than stock. If you want to car to be as quiet as stock, you probably aren't going to be able to improve the flow at all. You could try a performance cat or something, but that too will probably add sound.

    As I've been driving the car more, I've noticed some things. As I said, cruising under 50-55mph there is a tiny bit of a note. It isn't stock quiet. Over 55, it is basically stock quiet unless you push the gas a little. But the nice thing is the note under 55. It isn't a resonance or droning. It is a very subtle burble. The burbling is still quite well defined, though. So, it's like a subtle reminder of what's under your foot. It's really cool. Also, the sound does seem to come basically from the back. Obviously it bounces around and such, plus low tones are not directional. But it does seem to come mostly from behind.

    Steve, if you want your wife to not mind the sound, the Corsa or a stock sized Dynomax is probably the best bet. If you want to change it on the sly, the Corsa would never pull it off. But the Dynomax may not either, and won't give nearly the boost. Perhaps you can sell it as a fuel economy booster?
This discussion has been closed.