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Battery replacement gone bad

jrogulskijrogulski Member Posts: 3
Replaced a battery and now everything goes dead as soon as I turn the key. Disconnect positive and reconnect and everything is back. Turn the key and it is dead again. Dome lights and everything. I keep losing power to the ENTIRE car.


  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Probably intermittent post connection. If a side post battery, be careful not to over tighten as this can break the connection internally.

  • jrogulskijrogulski Member Posts: 3
    Every time? It seems if I hand tighten them I still have no power to the car, but if I put the wrench on it everything is fine until I turn the key
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    You have a loose connection or a break in the cable. AND since you didn't tell us what kind of vehicle it is, it could be a dozen different things.
    If it is a Ford Explorer or Expidition, then the positive cable is broke at the terminal. The end of the cable will need replacement.
  • mastermechanicmastermechanic Member Posts: 31
    Try cleaning the terminals, the cable connection, and check where your positive and negative cables connect. Give them a wiggle:maybe disconnect them and clean them.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    It happened to me once on a friends '91 Caddy. The battery was bad so he thought, replaced it, and got the ame results you speak of. He did not remove the bolt that goes through the side post connector or check the "back" side of the connector where the metal hits the batery terminal. Once all the crusty crud was scraped off and a coat of terminal protector was applied I replaced the bolts with new ones, hooked it up and away it went, just like new. It has been running trouble free now for the past 4.5 years.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Wife comes in the house, says car won't crank. I go out and boom, kicks right over. She leaves, fuming. Next day, same thing. I go out, boom, cranks right up. Now, having been married for many year to this lady, I know I better figure this one out before things get ugly. So, start the engine, kill the engine. Over and over until finally, nothing. Not even a dome light. So, loosen the battery mount, lift the battery about an inch and drop it. Engine starts right up and I drive to the store and buy a new battery for my loving, and now vindicated wife. For you newbies, this is a good clue as to how you stay married. ;-)

  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    man, do those stink. auto stuff is so dern big that my favorite electronics trick, a can of freeze spray, won't help. I have been known to use bypass wires with clips on both ends to get around the entire wiring harness to some suspect part, and clip off one bypass, then the next, etc. until the stinker is found.

    of course, I have also been known to miss a cruddy ground by this method and foul the air for hours.....
  • cafranz1cafranz1 Member Posts: 2
    At some 29 months but 37300 miles my "99 Blazer failed to start. I lifted the hood and the positive terminal was a sea of corrosion and wet with acid. When I cleaned it up I could see the the terminal was leaking continously. GM only covered it to 36,000 miles and there was no coverage with the extended warantee. Essentially, Delco said go suck as they said they did not warantee it. However the battery was the optional HD and said replace it with an 8 year battery. None was to be found so I replaced it with a 7 year one. The dealer told me Friday that they see about 2 cars a week with this problem. So Delco has a manufacturing defect that they are ducking. Anyone else seen this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Most batteries are pretty tired at 36-48 months, depending on type of vehicle and environment they are in, so really you didn't do too badly under the average. If you figure $75 for a new battery and that you got about 3/4 normal life out of yours, you're only out $20. Not worth getting steamed about, IMO.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I have used Optima Batteries with much success. The battery is a spiral wound cell so it is less likely to be effected by vibration or shock. They have the lowest resistance of all batteries on the market, and are "gel" cell technology, that means no leaks and mounting in any position. The lower resistance makes it easy on your changing system to keep it topped off with power, so you will end up with longer life out of your alternators and regulators as well. A lot of marine and RV stores carry them, as well as the high end audio stores.

    The down side to them is the price, around $120-$190 depending on the model you choose. In the long run the dependability of the battery is worth the extra $50. I don't know how true it is, but the company claims that the battery can be shot with a shotgun and still start your car, not exactly an every day happening but hey, if your in the woods somebody could confuse your SUV for a deer and well you never know.

    You can check them out here:
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    I have heard tell that lots of side-terminal bolts are overtightened, which causes the leaks. there was even a torque spec for this in my old Buick service manual, something like 12 inch-pounds, or something similarly inadequate-looking. at any rate, a half-inch-drive socket with a breaker bar and a cheater is not your best battery terminal tool.
This discussion has been closed.