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Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance

Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
edited July 2014 in Toyota
Click on link in Additional Resources box to use Maintenance Guide.

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  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Does anyone know why the number one spark plug in my 1993 Toyota truck (22R engine) burns out before the other three? Whenever I check it it always has substantially more gray-brownish residue than the other cylinders' plugs. I've not noticed that it has caused any problems, and am just curious. The work around solution is that every 5,000 I rotate my spark plugs so they will wear evenly.

    Any ideas?

    - Paul
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    I'm sure you thought of that though.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Actually I had not thought of that - I sometimes forget the simple things! I'll be at 150,000 miles for the next tune up and will replace both the plug wires and distributor cap. I had replaced only the cap before and it did not seem to make a difference, but perhaps new wires will.


    - Paul
  • mkstringmkstring Posts: 53
    I just went synthetic in my '92 Xtra cab V6 4x2 (at 60,000). With a Toyota recommended change at 5000/7500, should synthetic extend that any?? Any ideas on recommended filter change schedule given that synthetics are "cleaner" by nature?? I figured that synth would be a way to even prolong the life i expect out of the truck, given their reputations...

    I've owned it for just over a year and the reputation his holds for its reliability. It's amazing that the little guy (I can see called a truck a girl) is 10 years old already....
  • human_guisehuman_guise Posts: 14
    Well, thanks to a brain fart I managed to put a big fat gouge in the front right-hand plastic wheel arch trim on my '02 Taco double cab. It scraped on the edge of a trailer in the garage, as I was backing out. I am pretty certain that I can replace it myself (since it bolts on), but don't want to get raped by the local dealers. Anyone know where I can order such a factory part on-line? Thanks!
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Try doing a Yahoo search on Toyota of Richardson, Texas. They answered an e-mail for me once and seemed tech-friendly.

    - Paul
  • My 2 month old 2002 4x4 DC came with Bridgestone 265/70R16's. What's the recommended PSI for my tires. The truck will be used mainly on the pavement.

    The sticker in the door jamb has settings for a 225/75R15 tire - nothing about my tires.

    - bill
  • I have an 02 DC 4x4 also, and my sticker shows for both tire sets. The 265/70R16's show a pressure of 26 for front and back. I have questioned such a low pressure with several tire dealerships, and they all think it is too low for normal on road use. They recommended 30-32 typical. I have been running 32 and have not seen any unusual tread wear in about 10k miles. I rotate every 5k sofar.
  • I just bought this one, but it didn't have an owners manual and neither did the dealer. Any suggestions on how to get one?

    I've owned 4 Toyotas and driven over 400,000 miles with no breakdowns so there will be more!
  • You should be able to order one from the parts department from the dealership.
  • I am on my second Tundra, and both have been excellent.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    176,500 miles and no major problems. No blue smoke or oil leaks. Original exhaust, starter, radiator. Minor things like a brake valve and water pump needed replacing, but that's about it.

    It's almost time for new tires, the ones on the truck have 80,000 miles on them.

      - P.
  • footpoundsfootpounds Posts: 22
    For you technical types, any idea why Toyota REQUIRES twin ground electrode spark plugs in the 6 cylinder Tacoma engines but doesn't require them in the 4 cylinder engines?
  • I am getting a 2003 Tundra today and I'm wondering if anyone knows the recommended breakin procedure for a new Tundra? ie mileage and speed. I've always heard on any new car it is best to stay under 55 for 1000 miles to let the transmission breakin and such.
  • Also, anything else anyone recommends to do for a new TUndra? Maintenance, cleaning, etc?
  • Just go what the owners manual says; no constant speed (long periods of highway driving) and not too fast for a thousand miles.
  • Just got a 03 Tundra, ordered a cover for the back. Does anyone know if a spray on bed liner like Rhino Lining is worth it? ---or should i just get a rubber mat. I had a plastic bedliner in my old truck and don't want one for the new one. i read the existing discussion thread, but need more advice... thanks!
  • ohmboyohmboy Posts: 3
    I installed a Herculiner kit myself on my 00 when it was new. This is a cheaper do-it-yourself version of the Rhino product. I considered Rhino at the time and probably would go that way if I had it to do over simply because it looks a little better. This being said, I still get positive comments on my Herculiner quite frequently. I would go without a liner before I'd ever put a plastic one in my truck again. If you ever intend on putting anything in the bed of your truck there is no other option. Just one country boy's opinion.
  • I change the oil in all my vehicles myself to save money and be assured of quality work. However, I am getting really tired of the location, access and convenience of the filter on my 4-cyl Tacoma. When the filter is removed (long after I've drained the rest of the oil), at least a cup runs down my arm, splashes all over skid plate, and then drips all over the garage floor from various locations!!! Does anyone have any tips? I've never owned a car or truck that made such a mess.
  • spleckspleck Posts: 114
    On cars that have an awkward filter location, I usually slip a plastic trash bag over the filter before I remove it.

    I've also noticed that if you change the oil with the engine cold, the filter comes off only about half full of oil--no spill. The disadvantage is that without the engine warm, the oil won't flow out as well.
  • I have the 3.4 v6 Tacoma, and it spills the oil too. I put cardboard under it to catch what doesn't hit the drain pan. I bought a Trans Dapt oil filter relocator for it, and it allows you to move the filter to a move convenient (vertical) location, and uses a FL-1A filter (standard Ford) that you can get anywhere. Haven't installed it yet, but willpost when I do and let y'all know how she works out. I also bought a sliding gate valve drain plug, so don't need a wrench now to let the oil out of the pan. I can attest to the fact that this item is pretty cool. Got it from Toyota Performance.
  • Thanks for the recent discussions on saving oil from making a mess. I have a more basic problem. Making my first oil change at 4K and can't find the filter. Please help. No mention of it in owner's man...I guess they want the revenue at a dealer.


  • If it's a V-6 3.4L, if you contort your arm to the right side of the engine through the alternator belt, it's hanging off the driver's side of the block below the exhaust manifold. Don't know about the 4 cyl.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    A major news magazine is looking for an enthusiastic Toyota customer, preferably a buyer (or soon-to-be buyer) of the Sienna, Highlander or Tundra Double Cab. Please provide your daytime contact info and vehicle status to [email protected] no later than Tuesday, October 28, 2003.
    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director


    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I have 5 Toyotas, including one Tundra truck. For the past 15 to 20 years, I have been inflating all my tires to slightly below maximum inflation pressures. That is, on the 265/70R16 tires on my Tundra, the maximum inflation pressure is 44 PSI. I inflate them to 42 PSI. The ride in the vehicles is a little harder, but handling control, fuel economy, tire wear, and wet weather driving is improved.
  • I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Oil changes are at 10,000 mile intervals, with oil filters changed every 5,000 miles. It keeps it simple to remember.

    Mobil 1 gear oil in differentials (non limited slip), transfer cases, and manual transmissions is changed when new, thereafter every 100,000 miles.

    Automatic trans fluid is drained and refilled every motor oil change (10,000 miles) using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity. I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it.
  • Hi, basically bedliners fall into two obvious catagories- drop in and spray on.

    Advantages to a TOP quality drop in:
    -correct one is custom fit to your truck
    -will protect your bed better than spray on because of thicker material
    -if liner becomes damaged, it can be pulled out and replaced (the spray in liners do become damaged over time)
    -no overspray or wobbly edges if done poorly
    -you don't have to worry about the bed being completely clean before putting it in
    -cost is usually lower because of less labor
    Disadvantages to any drop in:
    -water can collect under the liner and rust your bed faster

    Advantages to a TOP quality spray in liner:
    -can be color matched to your truck, can even be multiple colors (from an experienced technician)
    -tighter, more perfect coverage
    -built in texture, stuff doesn't slide around as much in the bed
    -no manufacturer name molded into the liner, you can make the bed as smooth as possible
    Disadvantages to a spray in:
    -built in texture can be rough on things you don't want scratched (you included)
    -once it's there, it's there, even if it's a bad job (very tough to remove, redo, or touch up)
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    Disadvantages to any drop in:
    Noise - can rattle on rough roads.
    Paint wear - movement between liner and painted bed can wear through paint (in spots) leading to rust.

    Advantage: smoother surface = easier to clean.
  • Have a 1990 two wheel drive with 67,000 miles.
    Want to change fuel filter but can't find it.
    Thought it was underneath by right rear wheel.
  • Ref: fuel filter. Never mind I found it. Changed it. Although I don't think that is my problem.
    The engine seems to "buck" or cut out, rough idle.
    It bucks when I stop accelerating, or on the level when foot is just resting on accelerator.
    Started out by changing plugs, then spark plug wires, then distributor cap and rotor. All top quality parts. Oh yes, a can of drygas also.
    Any thoughts on the matter appreciated.
This discussion has been closed.