I'm getting ready (I think) to buy a 2006 Tacoma (access cab 4WD manual 4 cyl) with the standard (not SR5) package. The "bumpers", especially the front, are not bumpers at all. Has anyone found a source for good solid bumpers for these, or have some other solution? I'm used to a 94 T-100 with real bumpers. Any thoughts much appreciated.
From the sound of it, it's definitely a timing chain (sounds kind of like a garbage disposal running dry if you rev the engine and let it go back to idle). I've done this on about three 80s era Toyota trucks, now, and it's not too bad. You don't have to remove the head, but make sure your mating surfaces are clean (acetone or laquer thinner on a rag to clean), old gasket is gone, and use an extra dab of silicone in the corners on the cover (and don't forget that little bolt at the top of the cover that's under a small puddle of oil at the front of the head!).
While you're in there, replace the oil pump and water pump. It doesn't add much to the cost, and you won't have to worry about doing them in the near future (because you will if you don't replace them!). You'll have to replace the chain and guides (simplex chain on plastic guides, hence their wearing out!). You can buy a kit, with new cover, on eBay pretty cheaply. Make sure you fix this soon, because the chain will rub through the aluminum cover/housing, and there's water on the other side which will mix with oil if there's a breach.
Oh, and the trick to removing the oil pan easily is to undo the motor mounts and jack up the engine as much as possible. This way you don't have to try to remove the steering arms (I never could get those blasted things apart!). Give me a shout if you have any more questions (click on my e-mail link at www.drjing.com).
As mentioned in the Rules of the Road - link to the left - we discourage posts asking members to email them. It benefits everyone when information is shared here in the forums where all can see the questions and answers.
Thanks for the reminder, but since I gave what I think is a fairly thorough overview, do you really want this list clogged with questions like: There's a hose in the way of the distributor, and I'm wondering if I can remove it? I am going to lift the engine, is it just two bolts on the motor mounts? Should I drain the engine oil before removing the pan? Etc., etc.
If you want that here, then I'm fine with that. Just trying to be courteous toward other members and this board, since the format is one long list of posts, as opposed to compartmentalized postings.
I have a 1998 tacoma and was wondering if anybody has had the problem of the fuel injectors going bad or getting plugged every 10,000 miles or so. I have already replaced one after getting a "check engine light" epi- sode(misfire on cylinder 2), and it ran alot better for awhile, but its starting to run a little poorly again. Was just wondering if anyone else has run in to this problem.
thanks to anybody who can get me in the right direction
I had to take my truck to the shop due to the hydraulic clutch booster breaking free from the firewall. They had to weld in some sheet metal to reattach it. The guy at the shop does not think it is U-Joints but an issue with the tranny or transfer case. The sound is still constant, the shifting is fine so I wonder if the tranny is really the problem. I just spent a small fortune getting the clutch fixed, has anyone had any experience with a bad tranny making a rumbling noise that changes in pitch and is constant whether going 20mph or 70mph. Could it be bad bearing within the tranny? If anyone has any thoughts on this, please share. Thanks. :confuse:
Hello, I have an 05 Tundra DC SR5 that I bought in July with 7700 miles on it. The truck run so much quieter and smoother than my 05 reg cab that I was well pleased. That changed at 11,900 miles. When you are accelerating from around 49 on up the truck now shudders/stumbles/vibrates and it feels like the power is not there anymore. Only thing about it only gets real bad after driving 50 or more miles. Dealer has made me feel stupid, they can not duplicate problem or when they do feel it they say its normal. Every day I drive 95 miles round trip and it gets so bad that I no longer enjoy driving the truck. This afternoon the salesperson and service manager rode with me for about 15 miles and it did it just enough to be noticeable but not terrible, told me that was normal. After I left and started out of town in got much worse after about 55 miles. When you start up a slight incline or hill does it badly. I have to turn of the OD or floor it to get up it. It also has developed a rear end whine when letting off gas or doing down a hill or incline. I tried different gas and no difference. Was going to have tranny serviced and see if that helped but of course the dealer has no tranny fluid for the 05! What makes it worse is I put the truck up for sell after losing 1/4 of my income last month and then this had to happen. Would like the new buyer to be happy with it. BTW, I cant give the thing away, I thought Toyota had a good resale value but I had mine priced WAY under what a new one cost and no luck even with the 6/100 warranty. Best offer I had was 19k for it with only 14k miles. Any help greatly appreciated, there is not another dealer within 80 miles of me.
Sounds to me like it is starving for fuel. Takes a while, but eventually the filters can't allow enough to get through. Change ALL the filters and see what happens. One is probably partially obstructed and can keep up in stop and go traffic or constant speed for a while, but does not have room for reserve after a little while. Also, if the next dealer is 80 miles away, sounds like a trip down the road may be in order. It is also possible that you got bad gas, and there is junk in the tank. May take a while for enough to float up and start to plug the pump filter. After stopping, the junk falls back down to the bottom of the tank. After a little driving, you may get a little hesitation, as the filter is mildly obstructed. I drove a Tundra for about 4 years, and the power was there whenever I needed it, even after 300 miles, so I don't see it being a widespread problem, but I do believe it is a fuel problem. May even be a pump. I worked in the mechanic field for about 20 years, and there is nothing more discouraging then someone having a problem that you cannot duplicate. However, a good mechanic tied to someone that can give a good detailed problem will usually lead to a good diagnosis. I once had a customer that weighed a buck twenty wet. His car always pulled to the right after alignments. Always worked good when either of us drove it, but he always came back the next day. One day he brought his wife with him. Let's just say the car leaned right with her in it. Aligned it with her in the car and he never had to come back again.
This sounds to me like a drive shaft problem. The hanger bearing (drive shaft goes through this)could be going out. Or it could be a "U-joint" going out.
If it has a 4cyl in it,I had a 92 pickup with a 4 in it and always had to make sure the bolts on the intake stayed tight every few thousand miles(but don`t over tighten them)its a great engine,but for some reason other than expansion and contraction the bolts loosen up.
Have the dealer check the tie rods,I have a 00 tundra that did the same thing with the shimmy and rubbing on turns,at 38000mi. it turned out to be the right tie rod was bad,the dealer got a new one in,but it was bad too,so he ordered two more,one was good and the other was bad,bad manufacturing??
I had a 92,you say you have a vibration,where?is it 4 wheel drive,I had noise under the drivers seat,then my friend told me about how these trucks need to be greased,there is 13 grease zerks on the drive shaft and u-joints with 4 wheel drive,the ones for the front shaft take a lot, and greasing it full killed the noise for me.
I used to own chevys that would have wet floors after a rain without driving,it always was a leaky windshield,the seal around the window was dried out and leaked in three cars.....hope this helps.good luck.
Toyota trucks are famous for having belt tensioners that squeak,grind,howl,and be just a pain the butt.I had it in my 87,my 92 and I`ve got it in my 00.try lubeing it and see if thats it.works for me.
Hi, Did you ever get that dash light problem fixed? I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner . the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal. Anyone out there that can help me? Thanks, Nick
Hi, Did you ever get that dash light problem fixed? I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner . the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal. I checked all the bulbs, and they are correct and ok. Anyone out there that can help me?
I was removing the factory exhaust of my 2002 Toyota Tundra to install an aftermarket exhaust i purchased(Magnaflow). I couldn't disconnect where the muffler meets the catalytic converter. I removed the clamp but the two pipes wouldn't separate. I want to keep the old exhaust and not harm it, so i don't want to cut it. My question is, is it welded together, or just very rusted? And do the two pipes just met or does one go into the other?(I want to know this so if i do cut i don't cut to deep.)
i have notice that after coming to a stop at a red light there is sometimes a clunk and the truck surges forward just a little. Also, i noticed that while accelerating downhill(and only downhill)from 3rd to 4th gear, instead of shifting around 2300 rpm as usual, it will rev up to about 3200 rpm and hang there for a few seconds and then shift and then shift again to catch up. any input you may have i greatly appreciate it.
When going 40-50 and accelerate lightly the trans. kicks down. It does not shift to 3rd gear, but I do not know what gear it is shifting to. It makes a thunk when this occurs. If I push the gas more it shifts fine. Other shifts are fine. Is this thunk normal or is the tranny about to go?
My friend has a 2003 Toyota Tundra 4x4. And its stalling. When we were going to camp the other day we were going up a hill and right there the truck stalled. It took about 2 hours for the tow truck to come and the man said there is a defect in the engine. Right now its in the repair shop and my friend says he'll get a new engine, but when we asked for a new engine the guy said about 2000 dollars. Seems pretty high. So I told him to trade it in. But the dealership is giving us a low price on the Tundra. What should we do. :confuse:
I have a 1996 Tacoma 2 wd with a 5 spd manual that has just started jumping out of gear as I am driving, It seems to be worse in 3rd and 4th gears, almost seems like it doesn't want to engage all the way, but will also do it in the others, but not as bad. Truck has 147,000 mile on it. If anybody can give me a few hints at what I should check out I would really appreciate it. Thanks, JD
A new engine for a Tundra for $2000 installed? Sounds like a great deal to me. (although I'm guessing your're really talking about a rebuilt engine) You don't say whether it's V6 or V8, but either way, $2000 for either remfged engine installed sounds like a good price to me.
I have a 2003 Tundra and trying to change front brake pads the pistons will not open enought ot fit the new pad in took out some brake fluid this didn't help pushed pistons back as far as I could and still isn't enough help!!!!
I had a 85 87 90 1\2 ton PUs. Bought them at auto auctions with 70K drive them to 125K and sell them. Bought one gas filter and changed oil at 5K. NEVER any problem. In 2002 I bought a wrecked 2000 sst tacoma put 115K. no problem but a engine lite at 95K never fixed, did hesitated at slow speeds. too rich I think. Now I have fixed several wrecked trucks for neighbors and am running into all kinds of problems with the Prerunners Parts are very expensive. Flairs on wheels cost $900. for 4 and rubbbers to seal against body 25 for plastic holders and you cant take off with out ruining them. No stainless screws like honda to hold on this junk big long plastic squares that you screw to and they break and turn about time you get snug. Front bumper has fillers (plastic) on top of chrome bumper with 20 holes to hold on 8 ozs of flat plastic cost $120. Never had them at all in 90s. Plastic door handle for tundra is 88.00 Can buy from same factory in japan costs $20 for any toyota handle. Have lots of trouble with sensors, Idle air control motors last about 90K cost 200+ GIVE ME A OLD 94 with the 22R motor and 30 mpg. $100.00 headlights now ($5.00 in 96). looks better also . Twin cam gets only 24mpg. R22 pulls better with a load to farmer floyd-florida
I just leased an SR5 Tundra with the X-SP package(available through SE dealers). The upgrades on the X-SP include 20 inch rims and low profile tires. Just read an article on line which states changes such as this are dangerous due to A) Increase in weight of rims effecting braking. Change in speedo reading c) Adverse alteration in handling D) Increase chance of rim damage due to low profile. Is any of this true? If so why would Toyota corporate allow such changes by dealers? Can I assume dealer recalibrated speedo? If I get a flat the spare is the original can I run the truck with an odd size rim e.g. 3 20 inch and one 17 inch?
Odd Problem on my new 06 Tundra. When I unlock the doors with remote the light above the bed comes on. I have to turn it off via switchn on dash. Anyone see this before? Simple fix or trip to dealer??
In order- a) It's not so much the weight of the rim as the rolling radius. The distance from the roadway to the ctr of the hub is a lever, increasing that increases the braking torque required to provide a given brake force at the ground level. However, if the OEM designed the vehicle to accept optional wheel assemblies of the same or larger size, no prblm. If not, then yes, you are going to have inferior braking capacity. b)The rim size is not the whole story. What you need is the "rolling radius" of the new tire vs. the rolling radius of the original. The 3" rim size difference would imply an increase of 3" in diameter, but if you have a lower profile tire than original, the increase won't be that much. Take the new rolling radius, divided by the original. Multiply that times the speedo reading for actual speed if the speedo was not recalibrated. c) Same as (a) above, with addition of the additional "unsprung weight of the heavier wheel assembly will give a rougher ride and likely result in tires leaving the pavement more. d)With lower profile, you have less spring space available from the tire. A severe hit (like a curb) is more likely to damage the rim.
Perhaps Toy is not aware of the dealer's actions, or maybe it is authorized, you'll have to ask. Recalibration- ask.
Again, you need rolling radiuses of each wheel. Even so, if you drive SLOWLY and carefully, it may not be worse than the "compact spares" we find in autos.
You will see several posts on here and the 4Runner forum re: an alleged transmission thump. Your slip yoke needs to be lubed. The thump will go away. This is a very common problem with the 4WD toyota vehicles. The late shift going downhill is grade logic working as it should...holding the rpms up so that engine breaking can be used should you get off the gas. Hope this helps!
Did you wait long enough for it to go out?I just unlocked the doors on my 2006 Tundra.The interior light stays on for about 15 secs and the bed light for about 20 secs.
I just leased an SR5 Tundra with the X-SP package(available through SE dealers). The upgrades on the X-SP include 20 inch rims and low profile tires. Just read an article on line which states changes such as this are dangerous due to A) Increase in weight of rims effecting braking. Change in speedo reading c) Adverse alteration in handling D) Increase chance of rim damage due to low profile. Is any of this true? If so why would Toyota corporate allow such changes by dealers? Can I assume dealer recalibrated speedo? If I get a flat the spare is the original can I run the truck with an odd size rim e.g. 3 20 inch and one 17 inch?
A. I cannot believe that in almost 20 years of doing replacing tires for a living, I have never heard the weight issue, but it makes sense just like a heavier flywheel is harder to slow. Don't think ther is that much difference though by the time you factor in less tire weight. B. The speedo should have been adjusted if the truck comes with the package new. Also, as mentioned above, the outer diameter of the tire is probably close, which would make little speedo difference. C & D. Yes you will lose handling and increase possibility of damage to not only the rims, but also windshields, shocks, struts, body parts, other suspension parts, .... You have a significant decrease in sidewall size which would absorb alot of stress from bumps. Why do the manufacturers allow these safety hazzards on the highways? For the same reason that tire manufactures make them and tire dealers started installing them after refusal for many years...money. From what I saw, kids would come in with daddy's credit card to buy this junk and then return for repairs and new wheels with the same card again. Some argue that low profile tires are usually wider which puts more meat on the ground for handling. Ya, and if the tire is 30% wider, you also have 30% less weight on any given area of the tire. That is why skinny tires wirk so much better in water and snow. You have enough weight to keep the tires on the gound instead of riding up. On perfect pavement, you will likely get better traction out of wider tires. Hit a bump or a puddle and you will be on a carney ride.
I am having a similar squeaking problem with my 02 Tacoma PreRunner. The squeaking is inconsistent when happening, though it appears to happen more often when the temperature is cooler/cold (less than 40 F). The squeaking will stop when I release the gas pedal and I have to be moving better than 25 MPH. It does not squeak at idol or when revving the engine at idol to similar RPMS. Does this sound like a belt tensioners problem? Any advice?
I have a 93 pickup and have the same problem, I've check the bulbs ground , brakelight switch with no luck going to look for a plug or something coroded
Odd Problem on my new 06 Tundra. When I unlock the doors with remote the light above the bed comes on. I have to turn it off via switchn on dash. Anyone see this before? Simple fix or trip to dealer??
Not only should the light go out after a predetermined time, but if you take off it should go out at about 3 MPH. If time shuts it off but not driving, you need to go back to the dealer. It is a safety thing to not be on when driving.
HELP !!!!! my right directional lights go on when I step on the brake pedal and the brake lights flash with the right directional I have checked the grounds and sockets, replaced ALL bulbs and the flasher...no luck For some reason the + side of the turn and brake /parking lights are connected ... any Ideas ???
I have a 2003 thundra , every time it sets for more than a week the battery goes dead. I have had it at the dealer 3 times. The dealer said that is normal for all the electronics on it. I don't think it true. Has anyone else had this problem ? I think it has a short in system some where.
If you have replaced the OEM battery, then I would be a bit surprised that the battery is dead after, say, 8 days. However, if you have the original battery in it, it's quite possible. The sulfation of the battery over time results in flakes of the plates falling to the bottom of the cells. The cells have some empty space at the bottom to accommodate some of this without shorting the cells, however, eventually, some of the material will short some of the cells. This weakens the battery by allowing additional internal discharge and reducing the amount of active plate area. Most lead acid automotive batteries succumb in 4-5 yrs. (some make it far longer, some croak in 3 yrs) Prior to becoming completely useless a large part of the reserve capacity is lost. (Most of my batteries have died in the early winter, often I find the prblms right after the first cold night or two, when the early morning start up requires the most oomph from the battery.)
Anyway, the point is that if you have a 3 yr plus battery, it may serve you for another year or so if not forced to maintain a charge for more than a week without recharging, but it may not be all it was before.
OTOH, it should be possible to disconnect the battery and test the leakage in the system to determine if it is above spec.
If you have a relatively new battery, the vehicle should be able to sit idle for a week or two and still start.
When you say the battery is dead- do you mean completely dead (nothing works, no horn, cab lights, radio, nothing?) or will it just not start the vehicle?
While it may be a common acronym in casual conversation, absolutely NO references to the F-word are allowed in the Forums. This is a violation of our profanity policy. Thanks!
Can anyone tell me where to find an after market air filter for a 2005 4cyl. Tacoma. I would rather not pay dealership prices, however an air filter for this year and size seems to be difficult to locate
Comments
While you're in there, replace the oil pump and water pump. It doesn't add much to the cost, and you won't have to worry about doing them in the near future (because you will if you don't replace them!). You'll have to replace the chain and guides (simplex chain on plastic guides, hence their wearing out!). You can buy a kit, with new cover, on eBay pretty cheaply. Make sure you fix this soon, because the chain will rub through the aluminum cover/housing, and there's water on the other side which will mix with oil if there's a breach.
Oh, and the trick to removing the oil pan easily is to undo the motor mounts and jack up the engine as much as possible. This way you don't have to try to remove the steering arms (I never could get those blasted things apart!). Give me a shout if you have any more questions (click on my e-mail link at www.drjing.com).
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
If you want that here, then I'm fine with that. Just trying to be courteous toward other members and this board, since the format is one long list of posts, as opposed to compartmentalized postings.
has had the problem of the fuel injectors going bad or
getting plugged every 10,000 miles or so. I have already
replaced one after getting a "check engine light" epi-
sode(misfire on cylinder 2), and it ran alot better
for awhile, but its starting to run a little poorly
again. Was just wondering if anyone else has run in to
this problem.
thanks to anybody who can get me in the right
direction
kcram - Pickups Host
There is your problem.
What the heck is that engine noise ??
thanks,
BUDDY
I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner .
the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal.
Anyone out there that can help me?
Thanks, Nick
I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner .
the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal.
I checked all the bulbs, and they are correct and ok.
Anyone out there that can help me?
Thanks, Nick
When going 40-50 and accelerate lightly the trans. kicks down. It does not shift to 3rd gear, but I do not know what gear it is shifting to. It makes a thunk when this occurs. If I push the gas more it shifts fine. Other shifts are fine. Is this thunk normal or is the tranny about to go?
Thank you
Thanks,
JD
Sounds like a great deal to me. (although I'm guessing your're really talking about a rebuilt engine) You don't say whether it's V6 or V8, but either way, $2000 for either remfged engine installed sounds like a good price to me.
In 2002 I bought a wrecked 2000 sst tacoma put 115K. no problem but a engine lite at 95K never fixed, did hesitated at slow speeds. too rich I think.
Now I have fixed several wrecked trucks for neighbors and am running into all kinds of problems with the Prerunners
Parts are very expensive. Flairs on wheels cost $900. for 4 and rubbbers to seal against body 25 for plastic holders
and you cant take off with out ruining them. No stainless screws like honda to hold on this junk big long plastic squares that you screw to and they break and turn about time you get snug.
Front bumper has fillers (plastic) on top of chrome bumper with 20 holes to hold on 8 ozs of flat plastic cost $120. Never had them at all in 90s. Plastic door handle for tundra is 88.00 Can buy from same factory in japan costs $20 for any toyota handle. Have lots of trouble with sensors, Idle air control motors last about 90K cost 200+ GIVE ME A OLD 94 with the 22R motor and 30 mpg.
$100.00 headlights now ($5.00 in 96). looks better also
. Twin cam gets only 24mpg. R22 pulls better with a load to farmer floyd-florida
Thanks for the help
Jay
P.S. Love the truck. No more Rams for me!!
Thank you for your help
a) It's not so much the weight of the rim as the rolling radius. The distance from the roadway to the ctr of the hub is a lever, increasing that increases the braking torque required to provide a given brake force at the ground level. However, if the OEM designed the vehicle to accept optional wheel assemblies of the same or larger size, no prblm. If not, then yes, you are going to have inferior braking capacity.
b)The rim size is not the whole story. What you need is the "rolling radius" of the new tire vs. the rolling radius of the original. The 3" rim size difference would imply an increase of 3" in diameter, but if you have a lower profile tire than original, the increase won't be that much. Take the new rolling radius, divided by the original. Multiply that times the speedo reading for actual speed if the speedo was not recalibrated.
c) Same as (a) above, with addition of the additional "unsprung weight of the heavier wheel assembly will give a rougher ride and likely result in tires leaving the pavement more.
d)With lower profile, you have less spring space available from the tire. A severe hit (like a curb) is more likely to damage the rim.
Perhaps Toy is not aware of the dealer's actions, or maybe it is authorized, you'll have to ask.
Recalibration- ask.
Again, you need rolling radiuses of each wheel. Even so, if you drive SLOWLY and carefully, it may not be worse than the "compact spares" we find in autos.
A. I cannot believe that in almost 20 years of doing replacing tires for a living, I have never heard the weight issue, but it makes sense just like a heavier flywheel is harder to slow. Don't think ther is that much difference though by the time you factor in less tire weight. B. The speedo should have been adjusted if the truck comes with the package new. Also, as mentioned above, the outer diameter of the tire is probably close, which would make little speedo difference. C & D. Yes you will lose handling and increase possibility of damage to not only the rims, but also windshields, shocks, struts, body parts, other suspension parts, .... You have a significant decrease in sidewall size which would absorb alot of stress from bumps. Why do the manufacturers allow these safety hazzards on the highways? For the same reason that tire manufactures make them and tire dealers started installing them after refusal for many years...money. From what I saw, kids would come in with daddy's credit card to buy this junk and then return for repairs and new wheels with the same card again. Some argue that low profile tires are usually wider which puts more meat on the ground for handling. Ya, and if the tire is 30% wider, you also have 30% less weight on any given area of the tire. That is why skinny tires wirk so much better in water and snow. You have enough weight to keep the tires on the gound instead of riding up. On perfect pavement, you will likely get better traction out of wider tires. Hit a bump or a puddle and you will be on a carney ride.
Thanks for your help.
Not only should the light go out after a predetermined time, but if you take off it should go out at about 3 MPH. If time shuts it off but not driving, you need to go back to the dealer. It is a safety thing to not be on when driving.
However, if you have the original battery in it, it's quite possible. The sulfation of the battery over time results in flakes of the plates falling to the bottom of the cells. The cells have some empty space at the bottom to accommodate some of this without shorting the cells, however, eventually, some of the material will short some of the cells. This weakens the battery by allowing additional internal discharge and reducing the amount of active plate area. Most lead acid automotive batteries succumb in 4-5 yrs. (some make it far longer, some croak in 3 yrs) Prior to becoming completely useless a large part of the reserve capacity is lost. (Most of my batteries have died in the early winter, often I find the prblms right after the first cold night or two, when the early morning start up requires the most oomph from the battery.)
Anyway, the point is that if you have a 3 yr plus battery, it may serve you for another year or so if not forced to maintain a charge for more than a week without recharging, but it may not be all it was before.
OTOH, it should be possible to disconnect the battery and test the leakage in the system to determine if it is above spec.
If you have a relatively new battery, the vehicle should be able to sit idle for a week or two and still start.
When you say the battery is dead- do you mean completely dead (nothing works, no horn, cab lights, radio, nothing?) or will it just not start the vehicle?
I also liked your post about oil changes on the other Toyota thread.
Best, ss4
kcram - Pickups Host
I would rather not pay dealership prices, however an air filter for this year and size seems to be difficult to locate