I have had a dash board light go out behind the heating controls on the dash. Has anyone taken this center piece out? Does it just snap out? Is there anything to disconnect prior? I went to the dealer and they wanted to charge me $80 for this! Help.
I'd love to have the OEM shop manuals for this truck. I bought them for my 97 Chevy S10, and I imagine I saved THOUSANDS of dollars for it... I also remember it took me a long time to find them, though.
I looked at ebay and people say they are selling the OEM manuals, but they're selling them on a CD-ROM. I'd rather have a paper copy that I can flip through. Then I tried Google... too much information, and nothing seems to be what I want.
So, dwbehrens, could you tell me where you got yours? Or, if you remember, which ebay seller sold you yours?
My Tundra double cab 4x4 off road suspension has a squeak in the rear suspension whenever I go over any bumps. The dealer tried once to fix, and it's going back again wednesday. Any one having this problem.
Besides this problem I love my tundra, test drove the ford new 150, and nissan titan. Interior and quality totally rocked in the tundra, especially for the price difference.
I've changed the oil on my Tundra twice now and each time it has been a mess when replacing the filter. There is a skid plate under the engine compartment that prevents me from getting the filer out from underneath and having a drain pan under it. Instead oil dumps onto the top of the skid plate and runs down it and makes a big mess. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this. Do you remove the skid plate? I have a Limited so there is a decorative skid plate that I would have to remove before removing the real skid plate. Any suggestions? Last night I tried putting a small tub underthe filter on top of the skid plate, but getting it out afterwards was a pain!
My problem removing the skid plate is the stainless skid plate attached to the bumper interferes with removing the front three bolts on the skid plate. I'll need to find some sort of angle attachment for my socket wrench to get past the stainless skid plate.
Hello I would like to chat in order to compare transmission problems since I am have had chunking noise while stop at signal light. I took to dealer which their reply was no simular complaints, and also stated it was normal. After taking it back several times, the dealer decided to apply grease to drive shaft which seemed to fix the problem, but after three months the problem is back. I have not even mentioned the brake pads, nor the oxygen sensor headaches.
My 2000 Tundra has an occasional "chunking noise" with stops, but it hasn't bothered me or seemed to affect performance. I have had problems with the O2 sensors--one replaced about a year ago, and about a month ago, discovered another is now bad (and the warranty just expired!). Can I ignore this, or will it come back to haunt me?
Where do I find the cabin air filter on my 2003 Tundra? I've read about it in my owner's manual but it doesn't say where to find it! Any help would be great
I find the ride of my 04 Taco pretty good- for a mid-size truck w/ large wheels. The heavier the tire/wheel assembly, and "unsprung" portion of the suspension (axles, etc.) in comparison to the rest of the vehicle, the rougher (or bouncier, depending on shocks) the ride will be. If the wheels could be zero mass, and the truck chasis very heavy, the wheels would just move up and down individually over each bump without you being able to feel a thing. By the time the impulse of the spring on one corner would begin to accelerate the body upward, the impulse would be gone.
So, lighter wheels and tires will give you some help w/ overall ride quality. Changes in Shocks will mostly trade bounce for jarring, or somewhere inbtwn to some extent. Cheapest change is probably to add eight large sacks of sand to the cargo box, and maybe 1 or 2 behind each front seat.
Have a Tundra 2003 since Feb. 03. About three weeks ago started having problems filling gas tank. Takes about 20 min to pump 10 gallons. Had it back to the dealer three times. They replaced the carbon canister and still same problem. Had it back yesterday and was told that the check valve in the gas tank is bad??? maybe. They are replacing the gas tank next week because the check valve is part of the tank. Seems odd that the first time I had the trunk in they supposely removed and checked the check valve located at the bottom of the fill tube now seems it is part of the tank and have to replace the tank. Just wondering if anyone else has heard or has had the problem.
I just took my '03 4x4 Access Cab in to the dealer because my truck has a squeak in the right rear whenever I go over bumps. All they did was lubed the rear slip yoke on the drive shaft and cleaned it. Driving home, it still did the same thing. I haven't called or taken it back yet. I've been searching the internet to see if anyone has the same problem and any solution. I've seen a few people with the same problem. Has anyone found a solution yet?
I broke the rear side window latch and am trying to replace it. A service manager at the dealership said the door panel was held together with a interlocking sort of connection, while a manual I read said it was fastened to the door with clips. I just want to take the inside door panel off and replace the dumb thing. Any advice I could get about removing the door panel would be great.
My 2001 Tacoma X-cab has what appears to be a continuous rubber weatherstrip around the driver's door. A small (about 2-inch) part has become torn (shredded really) at the bottom, apparently due to a shoe or boot scraping over it entering or leaving the truck. How big a problem is this, and has anyone tried to replace one of these?
I still have one month on warranty, but hesitate to ask Toyota to replace it since it is obviously owner-caused "damage."
I recently purchsed an 01' tacoma v-6, auto, ext. cab, and i've read several comments in reference to dash rattles and noises. I have found a very inexpensive and easy solution to the problem with out the dealer run around. I found that a section of 1/2" round window foam sealer from the local home improvement store does wonders. It is sometimes called caulk saver. All i needed to do was to cut a section the length of the window base that fit between the front window and the dash, and then lightly press it into that gap with a plastic putty knife and/or a wooden paint stir stick. I am rattle free now! And if you have a gray interior it matches very well!
Just bought an 04 Tacoma 4wd xtra cab 2.7 manual to run around in and save the diesel from getting beaten up on our "roads". Love the truck, but the dinger that alerts me to the key in the ignition has got to go. It is fused with the dome light, so can't go that route. Any one know how to disable it, and where it is exactly? I know it's near the fuse panel in the cab. Thanks for any help.
I have a 2000 Tundra....I HAD the same problem: oil mess!! I did a little engineering. I purchased an adjustable circle cutting bit from Sears and cut a 5" diameter hole in the skid plate directly under the oil filter. Then I used a bracket and stainless steel bolt system to bolt the 5" disk to the skid plate. The only thing that can be seen is an outline of the circle and three bolts with thumb nuts. Now when changing the oil...I remove two thumb nuts..remove the 5" disk w/bracket, and simply reach thru the hole to unscrew the oil filter. What a time saver without all the mess. CAUTION....the skid plate is thick fiberglass...caution when cutting with this adjustable bit...in addition the fiber glass fibers can be quite painful!
The Tundra has FIBERGLASS skid plates? I was surprised to read that. I have a Tacoma which has steel skid plates but I guess fiberglass would be fine for light duty protection.
Bought my 02' a few months ago and have had a few squeaks and rattles, took it to the dealership yesterday, appears to be a recall on several areas of the dash, downside is they already have had it 1 1/2 days and will not get it back for a couple more.
I bought my 02'SR5 XCab 4x4 about 3 months ago and am dealing with the squeaky dash and leafsprings. Found out about the bulliten from the dealership, but they told me the same deal about the springs being dirty, any fix yet??
My black 2000 Tundra paint has three dime-size "chips" on the roof. I originally noticed the first one at about a year, the second one a tad later and the latest chip I noticed this weekend when I was waxing it. A Toy salesman told me a couple weeks ago that it was covered under a long warranty for the paint - something like five years or more? What has anybody here heard - and can I get more information?
I originally bought some touch up paint and fixed the first two - though one of those is now showing through again...and now the third one is there. So before I go through the process of gently applying touch up, I'd like to know if there's any kind of recall or TSB to address this.
I have an 04 tundra that makes a grinding sound when I shift on the fly around 30-40 mph. is this normal? the dealership claims that they cannot find a problem and NEVER shift on the fly. The owner manual says I can....
I believe you'll find that the 5 yr. paint warranty requires "perforation", which means that the thing has to rust THRU!
However, imperfections, peeling, etc. are normally covered under the shorter "regular" warranty. Get it DOCUMENTED and taken care of asap. Keep documentation which may be needed later if a wide-spread "silent recall" or full-blown recall is issued.
I went to see the dealer service dept and the manager looked at it - agreed it didn't look right. Said he thought it looked like some kind of tree acid trying to eat into it - I've never parked it under a tree long term. Told him I have the "toyoguard" on it and that shouldn't be susceptible to tree acid in either case. It's only 4 years old. I told him I owned a 4Runner for ten years and it never parked in a garage - and the paint on it was flawless the day I sold it. He referred me to the body shop manager...
Talked to the ASSISTANT at the body shop who agreed it was probably acid rain causing it... I told him it's a pretty sad testament to Toyota quality that acid RAIN is eating my paint after just four years. And why only the roof? Why not the hood or any other surfaces? He said he'd have to refer the case to the body shop manager who's out of town until Thursday... so this is going to have to be continued... But he did say the 5 year warranty only covers perforation - not the little spots I have. The general warranty IS expired, but he said this may be a case of poor workmanship, in which case they sometimes make exceptions and we'll just have to see what they can do for me.
To put it in perspective, though, these are not huge obvious spots - I only notice them when waxing the roof. They're roughly pencil eraser to dime size - two in all and looks like another forming. They're not chips or the result of anything hitting the roof - it's obvious when you look at it. I'd just like to get it fixed for free if I can - else I'll be daubing on the touch up paint forever!
I have a 2004 Tundra double cab. I too have the same squeak coming from the right rear going over bumps!!!! I took it to the dealer last mont @ 5K check and mentioned the squeak problem. You'll love their solution. The sprayed or painted oil over all the suspension members and it still SQUEAKS!!!!!!!!! Looking forward to next dealer visit. Mark/Cape Cod
"They sprayed or painted oil all over the suspension members..."
What did you expect? An engineering analysis evaluating your rear suspension? I must agree that this type of "fix" is ridiculous. Suspension squeaks are typically caused by faulty or missing bushings or defective shocks. I wonder if they would use the "oil" trick on your interior plastic trim pieces if you had a squeak there.
Been multiple Toyota owner for 20yrs and 2003 Tacoma 2dr 2wd stnd cab is the First Real Complaint I've had with Toyota Quality. Bought it NEW Oct 2003, here's my complaints: 1) Dash creaking sound 2) leaf springs sqeek 3) bed liner coming away from tail gate (glue?) 4) windows loose/rattle 2 in. play (regulators?) 5) paint bubbled up along both side doors along the whole length of the door about when the door curves with the rest of the body (6 in from btm) (noticed this is the first own I've bought that was built in TENN not in Japan and imported) SO, being under warranty, took back to dealer for issues 1-4 and didnt get resolved. issue #5 goes back to dealer mngr next week.
I bought a 2002 2WD 4 cyl auto Pre-Runner reason being that I thought I would be better gas mileage with the 4 cyl. Ever since I bought it in overdrive and out, I get 13/14 mpg. I could not believe it! I have taken it to two dealers and they check and said everything was normal and that on the open road I would get 26mpg! Computer checked out ok. I went to the Regional Toyota office and filed a complaint and they sent me to a regional tech support guy that was at one of the dealers I went to and basically he said he could do nothing. Very disgusted.... Does any one else have a similar prolbem with the Tacoma? I also don't drive it in overdrive because there is a jerking motion like it is not getting enough gas. My recourse is to write a letter to Toyota higher ups and trade it in for something else. If someone has a better idea, I am really open to it. Thanks for the advance in advance.
I have 2004 double cab Tundra with that SQEAK!!!!!!!! I complained to national office Toyota USA; and have an appointment for a dealer "fiX" which they claim to have researched. Will let you know next week. Mark/Cape Cod
I have the same squeak in my rear suspension as well. It seems to come from the right rear, but it is hard to be sure from the driver's seat. PLEASE let me know if the 'fix' works.
Went to the Dealer on Tuesday; they wanted to remove, clean, and lube upper rear shock mounts. Then they decided to replace them which were NOT in stock. Another appointment scheduled in three weeks-3rd visit. The saga continues. Mark/Cape Cod
I have a 00 Tundra Limited with 46K miles. Just told BOTH exhaust manifolds are cracked. Toyota says it is my problem. Seems to be a real quality issue here.
I bought a Tundra 2D regular cab V6 2WD on Aug. 11, and I live in Philadelphia area. My truck is still under 1000-mile break-in period.
Yesterday I started my Tundra in my garage, and during the warm-up, I found water dripping down from the exhaust pipe. Sometimes I see white smoke coming out too during warm-up. Is this a serious problem?
I have a similar sound from my 03 Tundra 4wd Access Cab. The squeak only happens on medium to small bumps and is very short. It sounds as much like a chirp as it does a squeak. It appears to be coming from my passenger side rear wheel. I have not been able to find out what causes, but it is driving me nuts!
That is exactly what my '04 Double Cab sounds like. Not on all bumps, sounds like a sparrow is making a nest in the right rear fender well, and, let me guess, when it is wet it doesn't make a sound. I took mine to the dealer yesterday, they tried to tell me that I had dirty leaf springs, I told them to check again, they checked if any TSBs were written up on the problem and found that a rusty washer on the rear shock mount was the culprit. They proceeded to unbolt my shock, clean and lube the washer for the fix. It chirped all the way home. Needless to say, it is going back. Other forums suggest this issue has something to do with the shocks, once replaced, it supposedly goes away.
Most likely the white smoke is condensing water vapor. (equivalent of "contrails" from jet aircraft)
The combustion of hydrocarbon fuels results in water vapor (steam), carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and numerous other gases and particulates in smaller fractions.
On startup, your exhaust manifold, exhaust piping, catalytic converter, muffler, etc. are all "cold" (ambient air temp) The steam portion of the exhaust gas is readily cooled upon contact w/ this cold metal, eventually heating the exhaust system, but initially condensing water on the inside surfaces. Some of this condensate will accumulate sufficiently to run out from the tail pipe onto the ground. As the exhaust gases leave the piping, some of the steam is condensed as very fine droplets, making "white smoke"-like emissions. Eventually, the exhaust system heats up enough that it no longer condenses water from the exhaust stream, and the liquid that has accumulated will evaporate and exit in the exhaust stream. This is why carbon steel exhaust systems rust out so very quickly on low-mileage cars driven on very short trips, when compared to high-mileage cars driven on trips no less than 10 mi each way. The water accumulates, combines with other elements in the exhaust and forms acids.
The other possibility is a cooling system leak, maybe thru intake manifold or exhaust manifold passages. However, you should see a drop in coolant reservoir level (check several days in a row, but either always when cold, or always after driving far enough to have the system well warmed up). If a cooling system leak, the water and "white smoke" would be excess water entrained into the exhaust.
But, in the absence of any other problems, like dropping coolant levels over the period of just a few days, I'd guess it is just normal combustion product (water).
Yes, fiberglass.... surprised me too. I think you might be hard pressed to break this piece. Super thick and ribbed. It will not dent, as metal would. The fiberglass strands seems to be long and coarse.
My buddy who owns a 2000 Tundra... says Toyota will refund $'s spent on replacing O2 sensors. Seems they had a serious problem, as I have replaced two O2 sensors on my 2000 Tundra ((2) O2 sensors closest to the engine block). Call your local Toyota dealer for details.... remember, 2000 models only.
hello first time post here give me your advise 04 or 05 the 04 we know and the 05 gets a more powerful engine(282 hp) and 10,lb torque and a 5 speed automatic and better gas mileage,the 05 are value priced toyota says. Haven't talked numbers yet so any help would be helpful. Thanks Lions PS pricing didn't go much about 282.00 from toyota
I suppose that I probably won't get Toyota to pay for new shocks. FYI: I don't have any of the TRD packages, in other words, they are the stock shocks. I will crawl under there and silicone spray my shocks and mounts -- maybe that will help. I will keep you posted. Also, I don't think it makes this noise when I drive in the rain. It has been a long time since I drove in the rain, so I will have to double check this. Also, I removed the spare tire in hope that this was the problem -- it was not. Please post an update if you find anything. Thanks.
I am looking at a 2000 Tundra 2WD, SR5 with the v8. It has 93000 miles but appears in good shape. And specfic things I should look for before making the purchase. Asking price is $13200. Thanks
After reading your posts, it sounds like your talking about My 03' limited step side. I have taken it to the dealer on two different occasions, on the first try the answer was the technician did not hear a squeak, so I did a test drive with a different tech and he heard the noise. I waited a full day at the dealer and after the spare tire well was insulated and some bolts were retorqued I left for home. I don't have to tell you I was squeaking before I got to my door. I now have the truck back at the dealership as of this post, yesterday I called the dealership back in the PM and was told the tech did not hear a squeak. I was not happy and didn't hold back, the service advisor told me to come in and take another test drive today with the tech, I told him I would be in at 5PM. At 8Am today the service advisor called me and said another tech took the truck for a test drive today and heard the squeak. I was told that the springs, shackle and bushing are being replaced in an attempt to fix the squeak. I will let you know how it turns out.
I took my truck (03 access cab 4wd, driven 1Yr 12,000 mi.) in for alignment issues and also had them address the squeak. They heard it with no problem. They said that it was coming from the leaf spring area. They said that they removed the leaf springs, lubricated and greased the shocks and bed bolts, lubed pivot bushings on front spring and adjusted axle position.
It still squeaks. I think it is a little better, but not much.
They were very polite and appeared to be concerned and diligent about this problem. They told me to return in a few thousand miles if the problem persists. Then the will get some sort of regional engineer to look at it.
Given all that I have heard from other postings, I am not surprised that they didn't find it. I think they gave it a good try.
I still haven't had a chance to get under there to spray silicone lube to see if I can find the problem.
Addition to earlier post of need to replace both exhaust manifolds on a '00 Tundra at 46K miles. Toyota (dealer or company unknown) did absorb slightly less than half the repair cost.
Comments
I looked at ebay and people say they are selling the OEM manuals, but they're selling them on a CD-ROM. I'd rather have a paper copy that I can flip through. Then I tried Google... too much information, and nothing seems to be what I want.
So, dwbehrens, could you tell me where you got yours? Or, if you remember, which ebay seller sold you yours?
Besides this problem I love my tundra, test drove the ford new 150, and nissan titan. Interior and quality totally rocked in the tundra, especially for the price difference.
So, lighter wheels and tires will give you some help w/ overall ride quality. Changes in Shocks will mostly trade bounce for jarring, or somewhere inbtwn to some extent. Cheapest change is probably to add eight large sacks of sand to the cargo box, and maybe 1 or 2 behind each front seat.
Thanks,
B
I still have one month on warranty, but hesitate to ask Toyota to replace it since it is obviously owner-caused "damage."
Thanks,
I originally bought some touch up paint and fixed the first two - though one of those is now showing through again...and now the third one is there. So before I go through the process of gently applying touch up, I'd like to know if there's any kind of recall or TSB to address this.
However, imperfections, peeling, etc. are normally covered under the shorter "regular" warranty. Get it DOCUMENTED and taken care of asap. Keep documentation which may be needed later if a wide-spread "silent recall" or full-blown recall is issued.
Talked to the ASSISTANT at the body shop who agreed it was probably acid rain causing it... I told him it's a pretty sad testament to Toyota quality that acid RAIN is eating my paint after just four years. And why only the roof? Why not the hood or any other surfaces? He said he'd have to refer the case to the body shop manager who's out of town until Thursday... so this is going to have to be continued... But he did say the 5 year warranty only covers perforation - not the little spots I have. The general warranty IS expired, but he said this may be a case of poor workmanship, in which case they sometimes make exceptions and we'll just have to see what they can do for me.
To put it in perspective, though, these are not huge obvious spots - I only notice them when waxing the roof. They're roughly pencil eraser to dime size - two in all and looks like another forming. They're not chips or the result of anything hitting the roof - it's obvious when you look at it. I'd just like to get it fixed for free if I can - else I'll be daubing on the touch up paint forever!
Mark/Cape Cod
What did you expect? An engineering analysis evaluating your rear suspension? I must agree that this type of "fix" is ridiculous. Suspension squeaks are typically caused by faulty or missing bushings or defective shocks. I wonder if they would use the "oil" trick on your interior plastic trim pieces if you had a squeak there.
2003 Tacoma 2dr 2wd stnd cab is the First
Real Complaint I've had with Toyota Quality.
Bought it NEW Oct 2003, here's my complaints:
1) Dash creaking sound
2) leaf springs sqeek
3) bed liner coming away from tail gate (glue?)
4) windows loose/rattle 2 in. play (regulators?)
5) paint bubbled up along both side doors along
the whole length of the door about when the door
curves with the rest of the body (6 in from btm)
(noticed this is the first own I've bought that
was built in TENN not in Japan and imported)
SO, being under warranty, took back to dealer
for issues 1-4 and didnt get resolved.
issue #5 goes back to dealer mngr next week.
Does any one else have a similar prolbem with the Tacoma? I also don't drive it in overdrive because there is a jerking motion like it is not getting enough gas. My recourse is to write a letter to Toyota higher ups and trade it in for something else. If someone has a better idea, I am really open to it. Thanks for the advance in advance.
Mark/Cape Cod
Mike/Michigan
Mark/Cape Cod
I bought a Tundra 2D regular cab V6 2WD on Aug. 11, and I live in Philadelphia area. My truck is still under 1000-mile break-in period.
Yesterday I started my Tundra in my garage, and during the warm-up, I found water dripping down from the exhaust pipe. Sometimes I see white smoke coming out too during warm-up. Is this a serious problem?
Thanks!
UCSC
The combustion of hydrocarbon fuels results in water vapor (steam), carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and numerous other gases and particulates in smaller fractions.
On startup, your exhaust manifold, exhaust piping, catalytic converter, muffler, etc. are all "cold" (ambient air temp) The steam portion of the exhaust gas is readily cooled upon contact w/ this cold metal, eventually heating the exhaust system, but initially condensing water on the inside surfaces. Some of this condensate will accumulate sufficiently to run out from the tail pipe onto the ground. As the exhaust gases leave the piping, some of the steam is condensed as very fine droplets, making "white smoke"-like emissions. Eventually, the exhaust system heats up enough that it no longer condenses water from the exhaust stream, and the liquid that has accumulated will evaporate and exit in the exhaust stream. This is why carbon steel exhaust systems rust out so very quickly on low-mileage cars driven on very short trips, when compared to high-mileage cars driven on trips no less than 10 mi each way. The water accumulates, combines with other elements in the exhaust and forms acids.
The other possibility is a cooling system leak, maybe thru intake manifold or exhaust manifold passages. However, you should see a drop in coolant reservoir level (check several days in a row, but either always when cold, or always after driving far enough to have the system well warmed up). If a cooling system leak, the water and "white smoke" would be excess water entrained into the exhaust.
But, in the absence of any other problems, like dropping coolant levels over the period of just a few days, I'd guess it is just normal combustion product (water).
Thanks a lot for your advice! I will go back and check the coolant level.
UCSC
PS pricing didn't go much about 282.00 from toyota
TRD packages, in other words, they are the stock shocks. I will crawl under there and silicone spray my shocks and mounts -- maybe that will help. I will keep you posted. Also, I don't think it makes this noise when I drive in the rain. It has been a long time since I drove in the rain, so I will have to double check this.
Also, I removed the spare tire in hope that this was the problem -- it was not. Please post an update if you find anything. Thanks.
And specfic things I should look for before making the purchase. Asking price is $13200.
Thanks
Let us know what you find.
-M
It still squeaks. I think it is a little better, but not much.
They were very polite and appeared to be concerned and diligent about this problem. They told me to return in a few thousand miles if the problem persists. Then the will get some sort of regional engineer to look at it.
Given all that I have heard from other postings, I am not surprised that they didn't find it. I think they gave it a good try.
I still haven't had a chance to get under there to spray silicone lube to see if I can find the problem.
I will keep you posted.