Today 9/18/04 I picked My truck up from the dealer. Service replaced the rear springs, rear spring assy, two hackle kits R/R and associated bushing. My ride home was squeak free. I hope it stays this way. Not having the truck for the 9 days was not easy. My faith has been restored in the Service Department. One thing the Technician said was that some of the 03 springs had problems. the actual listed cause on the service order was "Abnormal Noise Deformed 480011 Rear Spring Assy One Side" I hope this helps with your squeak, regards John...
Thanks for the post! I'm experiencing the same thing with my 01' Tacoma. I love this truck but every time I have to fill up, I think about selling it! It takes forever to fill it and if I'm not careful, gas will backup and spill out on the truck, the ground, or me!
Definitely get the 05 given the price difference is only about $280. Why would you even think of getting the 04 which probably has been sitting on the dealer lot for months.
That sounds great. I'm glad you have fixed your squeak problem.
Thanks for passing along your solution. I appreciate it.
Since my last post, I think my squeak is just as bad as it was originally, or possibly worse. This squeak is the worst complaint I have about this truck. It drives me nuts. Otherwise it is a great (but a bit bland) truck.
Returned to dealer this past Tuesday. They replaced rear shocks which the stated were also "leaking" with 9K miles. Squeak/chirp now GONE. Let's see how long it lasts. I hope it's fixed!
I have an '86 4x4 with 225,000 miles on it and have driven every day since March 1988 and twice to Cali. and back with absolutely no problems and am considering finally replacing it with a either 2003,04 or just waiting for the 05 Tundra. For all those who own '03 or '04 Tundras would any of you suggest waiting till the '05 debuts? Curious.
The 2005 Tundra (V8) has about 40 more horsepower than the previous versions, and supposedly better gas mileage. I believe the addition of variable valve timing and other enhancements accounts for this. Otherwise I don't believe there is much difference. Personally, I would prefer the 05, if the price is not outrageously higher than the 04.
HEY THERE I JUST BOUGHT A 2004 TUNDRA DOUBLE CAB IN MAY AND I HAVE TAKEN MY TRUCK IN 4 TIMES BECAUSE OF A SQUEAK IN THE REAR SUSPENSION. THEY CHANGED OUT MY SHOCK AND IT STOPPED BUT IT IS STILL DOING THE SAME THING AND TOYOTA SAID THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO
I am driving my new 04 SR5 TRD Tundra for about a month
On one rainy day when i made a left turn @ a light the vehicle started skidding, i made almost two 100 degree turns before coming to a stop. Luckily there was no vehicles on either side of the road. It was so weird, as my wheels are fully wet and i had fully stopped on RED before the signal turned Green after about 2-3 minutes i could have not gone beyond 25 mph or so. My Tundra has a LSD (not an Auto-LSD with a switch)
Are there problems with Tundra breaks or possible LSD issues
Not gone to the dealer yet. Any input is much appreciated
Don't discount road conditions in the spot that you skidded. One time I hit an large oil patch on my motorcycle. The oil layer was very thin and not noticeable. Luckily I was going only about 10mph through this turn. I barely kept the back wheel from sliding out from under me. There was a car right behind me.
I have an 03 Tundra Access Cab, 4wd, LSD and no TRD. I have not noticed any spinout problems that are any different from any other pickup or van that I have driven. But I also don't push it very hard. If you are inclined to do so, you may try to repeat this problem in a safe parking lot somewhere.
I have a 2004 DC since March and have been back and forth to dealer. They replaced my rear shocks about 3 weeks ago. Squeak or as we like to call it "chirp" went away for about two days, then returned, less pronounced, but still there. Hope Toyota solves this one some day. I understand from research, problem has been reported back to 2001 models.
I have a 2000 4by4 6 cylinder Tundra bought March 2004 with 114,000 km. I greased all of my grease fittings on all the drive shafts and universal joints, but then I got the same squeaking noise you have. The problem was with the rear universal joints which I replaced. Ta da! No more probs. Luv my Tundra.
Thanks for the update! I think this will help alot of frustrated Tundra owners who are irritated by this stupid little 'chirp.' I probably won't get to taking my truck in for a few months, but I will update everyone when I do. I'm glad you fixed your problem. Also, Luv my Tundra too.
Yesterday, the dealer replaced my rear shocks (my fourth visit). The squeak is gone (for now). I hope it stays that way. The one thing that the dealer kept trying to tell me is that this was a problem that was unique to my particular truck. I told him of others that I had found with similar issues caused by defective shocks. It was only after my fourth visit and a refusal to have any lubing of the parts done that they went along with trying shock replacement
over at tundra solutions, their was a post about the 04 rear squeak. Here's quote attributed to this member: Apparently there is a missing o-ring or gasket between the upper rear shock mounts and the shocks "washer". I removed my rear shocks from the frame and could see where the rubbing was taking place. The upper shock "washer" is in contact with the frame mount. The shock "washer" has a flange that "enters" and opening on the frame mount. It was clearly visible that this is where the rubbing occured. I just wrapped the flange with electrical tape to provide insulation and lubrication between the metal parts. This was his fix.
I own a 2001 Tundra. The idle is rough and at times the engine will die. The engine will crank right back up but will continue to idle roughly. The toyota dealership has pressure cleaned the injectors, replaced the plugs, and inspected the throttle body. They still can't get the idle adjusted. The truck has 67k miles on it. Has anyone experienced this problem?
I just purchased a 04 tundra double cab a few months ago. Is there an aftermarket oil filter relocation kit for this truck? It is sure a pain to drop the lower engine cover everytime you need to change the filter.
I had almost the same thing with my 2000 Tundra with 78000 miles, I had the rear brakes adjusted and the brake problem was gone, as for the bump, take it in as soon as possible and have the dealer take the Transmission pan off, there are four mangets inside if your trany is going, it will have metal pieces all over them. If not you pay only for a transmission inspection and fuild fee, cheep since the transmission cost is $3800.00 good luck! Try backing up hard and see if the trany is slipping if so you will know!
Pull the transmission pan off and look inside there are four magnets in the bottom, if they are coated with excessive metal, You have transmission problems. Mine did at 78000 miles had to replace the trany! Good luck.
About a month ago I left was on my way into the workplace and when I exited the highway a loud squeaking commenced. It occurred mostly and most loudly when attempting to steer the wheel in any direction, but made 'some' sound while not even moving.
I was within a mile of Pep Boys and so I pulled in and started checking fluids. No leak was spotted when I climbed under the truck, but after checling motor, AT, and power steering fluid I chalked it up to low resevior for the power steering.
I checked the owner's manual and it specified what I needed to use and I picked up a quart of Dextron Type III ATF fluid. Since I had driven +30 miles on the highway before I exited, I presumed this met Toyota's definition of heated PS fluid. I was only a half-mile from the workplace, so I parked the truck and decided to fill the PS resevior before leaving to go home.
Nine hours later the fluid had to have been cold (was like 54ºF outside), so I noted the resevoir markers for cold fluid and the amount of fluid in the resevoir was well below the minimu. I added fluid to bring it up and in 30-seconds of starting the 2001 Tundra AccessCabe V8 SR5 the noise went away completely.
This seemed to have 'fixed' the problem and when I got home I notced nothing on my otherwise clean driveway. Then, this past Saturday morning I got up (again temps in the 50's) and upon starting the Tundra the noise returned. I turned the truck off immediately and cheacked the PS fluid resevoir and sure enough it was low again.
I checked the driveway again and still no sign of a leak. I topped off the PS fluid and went about my weekend until I drove home yeaterday afternoon and noticed something dripping onto the driveway. I crawled under the driver's side of the truck, just behind the front wheel, and could see something dripping off of the front-left CV(?) boot.
Unfortunately, I could not see from where it was dripping onto the boot in the first place. I lifted the hood and could see no sign of anything leaking down, and as such am puzzled. Now PS/ATF fluid is pinkish in color, but what was leaking onto the ground was more like used motor oil.
I checked the valve covers and they are clean and dry. Checking the resevoir shows deminishing fluid--so I strongly suspect that is what is hitting my driveway. Ok, this truck is three years old (original owner), 56-57K miles, of which >90% of them highway miles going against the main flow of traffic.
This is my daily driver, and I am a desk jockey, not someone that really needs a pickup. So, I am very surprised my usage is producing such a failing condition. Anyone else have or heard of this problem before?
Yes jeffrey18! And so have many others if you check around. I assume you have the 4WD Tundra. I have a 2002 SR5 TRD 4WD Access Cab. The vibration is loudest at ~35 mph, intermittent, usually quite loud when it is cold, and goes away when 4WD is engaged. It is not road and/or tire noise, but your dealer will tell you it is.
While I've read several good descriptions from others, no dealer has acknowledged the problem except to say "it is normal" and "Toyota knows about it." But they don't say what "it" is.
I (and others) think it is the front differential. It took me awhile to sort it out from road & tire noise, but it was there almost from the get go with ~400 miles. I now have 20K and there has been no change.
My first visit to the dealer: The technician described it perfectly before we test drove it, saying it is common in Sequoias, less so in Tundras. Just 2 minutes into the drive he said, "Yep, that's it." That was in February 2004. I just returned (Nov '04) and now they are trying to blame the tires, so I am documenting these complaints and going back to keep them focused on the real problem.
Good Luck! I may sell/trade mine before the warranty expires.
Took the Tundra into the dealership's service deapertment only to be told that the power steering fluid leak is coming from the steering rack itself. Conveniently, they stated they have never seen a rack leak before. Nice.
Repair runs from $825 to about 1150 depending on use of a remanufactured rack vs. a new rack, and neither include the necessary front-end alignment that will be needed post-repair.
I've owned about 15-20 vehciles in the past 20-years and this includes $50 vehicles ready for the recycler and none of them ever had a failing steering rack.
So much for driving this so-called 'pick-up' on the highway as a daily driver against the flow of traffic. i would hate to have bought it under the presumption of using it as a real pickup (for work), or even taking it off-road (not my scene).
And its really appealing in a negative aspect that a 56K mile, 3-year old daily-driver isn't 'tough enough' in the steering rack. Jeez. And the best that the regional Toyota rep is willing to do is paying half on a new rack (half of $839) so I am looking at $800 no matter what.
Sorry, but this just wrote Toyota off my list. While I am happy there are others getting 150K to 250K miles out of their Toyota's, I can't even make 60K before major failures. It would have been cheaper on me had the V8 or transmission had failed since the drivetrain is still under warranty.
Oh well, time to eat $800+ and then trade this thing in on something non-Toyota. Thanks for tolerating me ranting this morning and best of luck on your Toyotas.
Toyota of America picked up half of the bill for the new rack, for which my half cost about $578. I then paid for the alignment ($60). Since I am about $3K miles from the drivetrain going out of warranty, I wonder what my next 'fluke' failure will be. Something tells me I should trade this thing in and get rid of it asap.
I'm assuming that the lower engine cover is the same as my 2000 which I leave on a small amount of oil drips on it when changing the filter and runs into the waiting catch pan then wipe of the cover change filter from top leaning over radiator.
I also had this problem with my 2000 Tundra. I notice the ticking sound long before it was noticed by a mechanic at the dealer. By then I had approx. 48K and of course out of warranty. It was recommended by the service writer for me to contact Toyota and plead my case which I did. They in turn contacted the dealer. Dealer called me back 7 days later, told me to bring my truck in, and they repaired everything at "their" cost. I couldn't believe it. This was the second major problem with this truck. First problem was the whole rearend assy going out at 35K. Although I think that my have worked in my favor when pleading the case with the exhaust manifold cracks. My whole objective in buying a Toyta truck was to avoid such problems.
I have a noise coming from the front drive train of my Tundra truck. The noise sounds like a bad bearing and is associated with the rotation of the drivetrain or wheels. The noise normally only occurs when the temperatures are below 40 degree F and the truck is cold or has set several days. The noise occurs at low speeds up to 40 mph. After the truck is operated for 5 miles it normally stops. If you put it in 4 wheel drive it will stop. I have checked the brakes and they are all in good shape ( except for some rotor warpage),and calipers are free. I have tried placing the truck on jack stands and operated the transmission in drive and reverse both in and out of 4 wheel drive and it makes no noise. If you spin the wheels by hand while on the jack stands, it makes no noise. The universal joints on the drive shafts are all lubricated including the slide portion of the drive shaft and they don't show any signs of wear. I have checked the fluids in the transfer case, differentials, and automatic transmission and all are good. The truck only has 27,000 miles on it. I remember reading about others having the same problem with the same year and model of truck about 6 months ago, but I can't locate the comments to see if they resolved the problem. None of the inquiries had a solution at the time. I have returned the truck to the dealer twice and once they had it for a week. Does anyone have a solution to this problem?
Hi all, New to this forum, We just purchased the Tundra double cab 4x4 limited edition 3 months ago. Sweet truck But..... I hate the braking system. If lightly engaged it sounds like a loud windshield washer motor running, if I really have to put pressure on the brakes it sounds like something is falling out from under the truck, really loud banging and grinding noise, (I really thought something was broken) took it back to the dealer when it happened and he told me it was normal. Anyone else have this loud noise? Also today my 6 disc cd player came up with an error 3 code,Anyone know what this means? time for some warranty! thanks Skyline 39
Your brakes should not being doing this. I purchased a 2004 DC back in 7/04 and the more I drive it the more I like it. Super quiet with excellent build quality. My truck is 2 wheel drive. My disc changer has not given me any problems. Take it back to the dealership and get them to test drive it with you. Just stay on top of them. Gary
I have a 2000 (bought new) Tundra Limited with a 4.7-liter V8 . The OD shows 38.8K miles. The truck has been flawless except for several O2 sensor replacements & the recall on the hitch wiring harness.
I recently experienced problems when starting during cold weather. I had difficulty getting it to start & when it did, the accelerator did not function, only idle speed, plus the Check Engine light would come on.
The first time it happened, I was on a trip back to Texas from Colorado several weeks ago. In the morning, the temp was about 10F. After it warmed up at idle, I restarted & the accelerator worked but the Check Engine light remained illuminated. The next time I stopped for gas and restarted, the light was off. Then on 14 Dec., same problem. The service adviser at Toyota of Richardson revealed that the Throttle Body Assy was intermittently inop at startup. Since I needed the truck & couldn't afford to have the throttle fail during driving, I had to get it fixed. The service adviser said a new throttle was necessary (said it couldn't be repaired).
The total repair cost was: $1309.87 (throttle body part was $976.38) (Out of Warranty)
2000 4x4 ext cab about 60k miles at the time. Had the same problem as you described this time last year on a trip to NY. Very cold morning and would not move off idle. Mine was replaced under warranty but the total price was much less, about 350.00 as I remember.
I'm having a problem with my 94 Toyota Pickups 3L Engine. In the morning when my engine is cold, it starts with little problem.
When Warm, it starts first try if sitting or less than 5 minutes** However, if warm but sitting longer than 5 min. and shorter than 12 or more hours, it consistently takes two tries to start, and sometimes 3 !! even then it kind of stumbles before running smoothly.
I have replaced my original fuel pump with a less expensive after market version thinking it was that, as the original pump was failing intermittently.
Could it be my throttle positioning sensor? Nobody seems to know what is going on and our local Toyota Dealer/ Service seems happy to take my cash and replace parts without resolving the issue.
Note: I have installed a K&N Air Filter and Conversion Kit for the filter. I'm not sure if the problem developed after the fact. but I don't think so.
The oxygen sensor on my 2001 Tundra went bad at 41,000. Dealer wanted $252 plus labor. Called Toyota America and was told there is an "Enhanced Warranty" on O2 sensors for 7 years or 90,000 miles. Informed dealer and it was replaced for free. If you paid for O2 sensors, demand a refund because they are covered.
I have a similar problem with my 2002 Tundra Limited, 4WD. It is a rattle/squeak that seems to come from the mid-dash area near the windshield. It sounds like plastic vibrating, or plastic rubbing against plastic. Noticed it two winters ago, but it stopped. Now it is continual and seems to be more pronounced as the truck warms up (I live in the great Northwest). Or, it could be my luck that it really started to show up because I just hit 36,000 miles, which I think takes me out of warranty.
Anybody else find that the fuse block was the problem? Anybody notice it as cold weather-related or related to using defrost? Anybody try to get a solution from Toyota, within or beyond the warranty period?
Some other posts suggest passenger airbag area, but my noise is definitely coming from the middle of the dash, and seemingly near the windshield. This thing is getting to be like a sore tooth, impossible to ignore.
My '02 had the same dash rattle. There is a TSB out for this problem and mine was fixed while it was still under warranty. About a year later and not a rattle is to be heard. I doubt if they will fix yours if you are beyond the warranty. If I had to pay for my fix, I probably would have as that rattle was driving me crazy! I hated driving my truck until it was fixed. Good luck.
Yours is not the only one. I have now seen serveral posts on this. The complaints are very similar. What you describe is exactly what I have been experiencing for over a year. A previous post quotes a new Toyota TSB on this issue, TSB SU003-04. It is supposed to correct this. I would like to know what parts are a part of this TSB.
I was told the same thing by serveral Tundra owners and a Toyota service tech. It was time anyway so I greased all the drive shaft u-joints, spiders, and most importantly the slide yoke on the back end of the drive shaft. This one take a lot of grease. When properly greased the thunking stays gone.
I have an 02 Tundra with a V-6 auto and about 37k.After it sits usually overnight or several hours when I take off it will not change out of first gear till I stop or put it in neutral then back to drive. I've changed the fluid with no luck.
had the same symptoms over Christmas (check engine light on; accelerator wouldn't function).
Problem went away after I restarted the engine and it warmed up (I chalked the problem up to the cold weather).
Yesterday the check engine light came on again. Toyota says I need a new O2 sensor (again), but it's covered under warranty. Plus, they want $1,200 to replace the throttle body. This item is specificially excluded from the extended warranty that I bought. Yesterday, the vehicle had no accelerator problems; only the check engine light was on.
Is the accelerator problem just a cold weather issue? I live in Texas so don't know if I should fix it or take my chances driving it.
'03 Tacoma with a water leak on drivers side. I have had these before in Chevrolets and Plymouths, but never in a Toyota. I have owned Toyotas since 1984.
The problem centers around the driver's side floor board which pools up with water. This happened overnight while the truck sat in a driving rain storm. I could not feel any water under the dashboard, so I am thinking it is entering the cab somewhere up the firewall and trickling down under the carpet. We have been deluged in rain and this IS the first time I have had a problem.
How do i get the fog lights to stay on any time I flip the switch instead of just when the low beams are on? Someone did refere me to a web site from a Dr. from Az., but that web site does not work.
During a recent bout of nasty weather, I drove around for several days with the hubs engaged in 2WD, in case I hit any nasty spots and needed the extra traction. Tonight as I'm pulling out from work, I notice a scrape-scrape-scrape noise coming from the left front wheel. I immeadiately pulled over and checked to see if I had a rock rubbing the brake disk or something, and found that my left hub was disengaged. I went around and disengaged the right hub, then got back in and drove a bit more. The scraping sound continued. I re-engaged both hubs and the noise went away. Does anyone have any ideas on what's happened?
My daughter has a '98 Toyota RAV4 and my wife has an '00 RAV4. Both cars often have tiny flecks of alum. on the end of the oil dipstick when I check the oil. It appears that the metal is from the dipstick rubbing against the tube end. Anyone else seen this?
Particles of aluminium on a dipstick (made of steel and within a steel tube, BTW) could be a sign of impending trouble.
Is it known to be aluminium? A magnet will answer that question quickly. If they are ferrous and attracted to the magnet, you might have problems.
One sure way to find out if your engine is "Making Metal" would be to remove the oil filter, cut it open, and examine the filter media with a magnifying glass.
If you find any particles big enough to see a serial no., this is bad news. (Just kidding--any sized particles in sufficient quantity is cause for concern)
Another good idea is to get an oil analysis. It will also tell you what the metal is, and thus indicate what the problem is likely to be.
Just received my 1993 SR5 4x4 extended cab toyota truck from dealership today. Truck is manual drive, 3.0l V6 w/ K/N filter upgrade modification. Truck was serviced for a total of 16 days with two seperate issues. #1 (critical) truck was intermittently loping(stalled) out of first gear leaving me at times stranded in middle of intersections. #2(minor) erratic high idle mostly during early morning warm-up. The first day of diagnostic they found a tear to the air intake hose $81.00(hose which connects to throttle body) and an off idle reading suspect the $103.00 throttle position sensor was bad. Master tech could not continue troubleshoot unless these two part were replaced. I authorized replacement of parts but severely question the TPS as suspect for high idling. After replacement of parts the truck high idle was 75% contained and no information feedback for the #1 issue loping(loss of power). At one weeks end, they had three of their top master techs working on the intermittent problem. Periodically throughout the day for two weeks they would test drive my truck for repeatability with the following results. Truck failed 5 seperate times for loping or loss of power while shifting out of first gear. Occurred one time when master tech drove my truck to his home(approx 33 miles) but was ok when returning to work the next morning. The master tech suspected a bad air flow meter and swapped it with the one on his 2004 toyota 4-runner. Drove his 4-runner home and back with no issues. Re-installed my flow meter back into my truck. Periodically test drove the truck for the next several days with truck stalling just 4 seperate times. At this time they had no clue and or the root cause for #1 problem. I personally stopped by to test drive and also to see for myself how much progress they were actually making. I couldn't get the truck to act-up but felt that the idling was still an issue. On the 14th day the master tech could get the truck to lope consistently so in doing so he installed a break-out box. Feedback data from meter box showed erratic coolant temperature sensor at around 195 degrees and would drop to a low 40 degrees. Recommended replacing the $64.94 coolant temperature sensor and with my approval this was done. After replacing the sensor, the break-out box data gave passing data results and the service team consider my truck finally fixed. Picked up my truck today and still notice the idling was erratic but no sense of loping or loss of power while shifting gears. Total cost parts and labor was $676.94. Not to bad considering all the time spent troubleshooting. I will need to drive my truck more frequently to provide more feedback to you all as to the condition of my truck including the idling issue. So my personal answer to your question asked earlier "Could it be my throttle position sensor?. I personally think replacing the TPS on my truck has made a idle improvement. The TPS is adjustable. Adjusting should been done first along with data testing to see if TPS is a faulty component. None of this was done so I'm leaving this TPS to repair my idle problem an open with the dealership. I hope this message helps those of you with similar problems and with one last thought when dealing with the dealership service team we all need to be firm as possible during the duration of any type of service. I personally was able to catch many types different situations were I either would have been charged more for total repairs or the decision making for what is needed for in the customer best interest. Good luck
Comments
Thanks for passing along your solution. I appreciate it.
Since my last post, I think my squeak is just as bad as it was originally, or possibly worse.
This squeak is the worst complaint I have about this truck. It drives me nuts. Otherwise it is a great (but a bit bland) truck.
Curious.
Otherwise I don't believe there is much difference.
Personally, I would prefer the 05, if the price is not outrageously higher than the 04.
On one rainy day when i made a left turn @ a light the vehicle started skidding, i made almost two 100 degree turns before coming to a stop. Luckily there was no vehicles on either side of the road.
It was so weird, as my wheels are fully wet and i had fully stopped on RED before the signal turned Green after about 2-3 minutes
i could have not gone beyond 25 mph or so. My Tundra has a LSD (not an Auto-LSD with a switch)
Are there problems with Tundra breaks or possible LSD issues
Not gone to the dealer yet. Any input is much appreciated
Thanks
I have an 03 Tundra Access Cab, 4wd, LSD and no TRD. I have not noticed any spinout problems that are any different from any other pickup or van that I have driven. But I also don't push it very hard.
If you are inclined to do so, you may try to repeat this problem in a safe parking lot somewhere.
Good Luck.
as long as others did not experience this problem, clarifies the fact that it is NOT Tundra issue likely :-)
will installing a rear sway bar be effective, will it interfere with LSD?
Thanks
I probably won't get to taking my truck in for a few months, but I will update everyone when I do.
I'm glad you fixed your problem.
Also, Luv my Tundra too.
About a month ago I left was on my way into the workplace and when I exited the highway a loud squeaking commenced. It occurred mostly and most loudly when attempting to steer the wheel in any direction, but made 'some' sound while not even moving.
I was within a mile of Pep Boys and so I pulled in and started checking fluids. No leak was spotted when I climbed under the truck, but after checling motor, AT, and power steering fluid I chalked it up to low resevior for the power steering.
I checked the owner's manual and it specified what I needed to use and I picked up a quart of Dextron Type III ATF fluid. Since I had driven +30 miles on the highway before I exited, I presumed this met Toyota's definition of heated PS fluid. I was only a half-mile from the workplace, so I parked the truck and decided to fill the PS resevior before leaving to go home.
Nine hours later the fluid had to have been cold (was like 54ºF outside), so I noted the resevoir markers for cold fluid and the amount of fluid in the resevoir was well below the minimu. I added fluid to bring it up and in 30-seconds of starting the 2001 Tundra AccessCabe V8 SR5 the noise went away completely.
This seemed to have 'fixed' the problem and when I got home I notced nothing on my otherwise clean driveway. Then, this past Saturday morning I got up (again temps in the 50's) and upon starting the Tundra the noise returned. I turned the truck off immediately and cheacked the PS fluid resevoir and sure enough it was low again.
I checked the driveway again and still no sign of a leak. I topped off the PS fluid and went about my weekend until I drove home yeaterday afternoon and noticed something dripping onto the driveway. I crawled under the driver's side of the truck, just behind the front wheel, and could see something dripping off of the front-left CV(?) boot.
Unfortunately, I could not see from where it was dripping onto the boot in the first place. I lifted the hood and could see no sign of anything leaking down, and as such am puzzled. Now PS/ATF fluid is pinkish in color, but what was leaking onto the ground was more like used motor oil.
I checked the valve covers and they are clean and dry. Checking the resevoir shows deminishing fluid--so I strongly suspect that is what is hitting my driveway. Ok, this truck is three years old (original owner), 56-57K miles, of which >90% of them highway miles going against the main flow of traffic.
This is my daily driver, and I am a desk jockey, not someone that really needs a pickup. So, I am very surprised my usage is producing such a failing condition. Anyone else have or heard of this problem before?
While I've read several good descriptions from others, no dealer has acknowledged the problem except to say "it is normal" and "Toyota knows about it." But they don't say what "it" is.
I (and others) think it is the front differential. It took me awhile to sort it out from road & tire noise, but it was there almost from the get go with ~400 miles. I now have 20K and there has been no change.
My first visit to the dealer: The technician described it perfectly before we test drove it, saying it is common in Sequoias, less so in Tundras. Just 2 minutes into the drive he said, "Yep, that's it." That was in February 2004. I just returned (Nov '04) and now they are trying to blame the tires, so I am documenting these complaints and going back to keep them focused on the real problem.
Good Luck! I may sell/trade mine before the warranty expires.
Repair runs from $825 to about 1150 depending on use of a remanufactured rack vs. a new rack, and neither include the necessary front-end alignment that will be needed post-repair.
I've owned about 15-20 vehciles in the past 20-years and this includes $50 vehicles ready for the recycler and none of them ever had a failing steering rack.
So much for driving this so-called 'pick-up' on the highway as a daily driver against the flow of traffic. i would hate to have bought it under the presumption of using it as a real pickup (for work), or even taking it off-road (not my scene).
And its really appealing in a negative aspect that a 56K mile, 3-year old daily-driver isn't 'tough enough' in the steering rack. Jeez. And the best that the regional Toyota rep is willing to do is paying half on a new rack (half of $839) so I am looking at $800 no matter what.
Sorry, but this just wrote Toyota off my list. While I am happy there are others getting 150K to 250K miles out of their Toyota's, I can't even make 60K before major failures. It would have been cheaper on me had the V8 or transmission had failed since the drivetrain is still under warranty.
Oh well, time to eat $800+ and then trade this thing in on something non-Toyota. Thanks for tolerating me ranting this morning and best of luck on your Toyotas.
New to this forum, We just purchased the Tundra double cab 4x4 limited edition 3 months ago. Sweet truck But..... I hate the braking system. If lightly engaged it sounds like a loud windshield washer motor running, if I really have to put pressure on the brakes it sounds like something is falling out from under the truck, really loud banging and grinding noise, (I really thought something was broken) took it back to the dealer when it happened and he told me it was normal. Anyone else have this loud noise? Also today my 6 disc cd player came up with an error 3 code,Anyone know what this means? time for some warranty!
thanks
Skyline 39
I recently experienced problems when starting during cold weather. I had difficulty getting it to start & when it did, the accelerator did not function, only idle speed, plus the Check Engine light would come on.
The first time it happened, I was on a trip back to Texas from Colorado several weeks ago. In the morning, the temp was about 10F. After it warmed up at idle, I restarted & the accelerator worked but the Check Engine light remained illuminated. The next time I stopped for gas and restarted, the light was off. Then on 14 Dec., same problem. The service adviser at Toyota of Richardson revealed that the Throttle Body Assy was intermittently inop at startup. Since I needed the truck & couldn't afford to have the throttle fail during driving, I had to get it fixed. The service adviser said a new throttle was necessary (said it couldn't be repaired).
The total repair cost was: $1309.87 (throttle body part was $976.38) (Out of Warranty)
Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks, Tom
When Warm, it starts first try if sitting or less than 5 minutes** However, if warm but sitting longer than 5 min. and shorter than 12 or more hours, it consistently takes two tries to start, and sometimes 3 !! even then it kind of stumbles before running smoothly.
I have replaced my original fuel pump with a less expensive after market version thinking it was that, as the original pump was failing intermittently.
Could it be my throttle positioning sensor? Nobody seems to know what is going on and our local Toyota Dealer/ Service seems happy to take my cash and replace parts without resolving the issue.
Note: I have installed a K&N Air Filter and Conversion Kit for the filter. I'm not sure if the problem developed after the fact. but I don't think so.
Please help.
Thanks, Carl
Anybody else find that the fuse block was the problem? Anybody notice it as cold weather-related or related to using defrost? Anybody try to get a solution from Toyota, within or beyond the warranty period?
Some other posts suggest passenger airbag area, but my noise is definitely coming from the middle of the dash, and seemingly near the windshield. This thing is getting to be like a sore tooth, impossible to ignore.
had the same symptoms over Christmas (check engine light on; accelerator wouldn't function).
Problem went away after I restarted the engine and it warmed up (I chalked the problem up to the cold weather).
Yesterday the check engine light came on again. Toyota says I need a new O2 sensor (again), but it's covered under warranty. Plus, they want $1,200 to replace the throttle body. This item is specificially excluded from the extended warranty that I bought. Yesterday, the vehicle had no accelerator problems; only the check engine light was on.
Is the accelerator problem just a cold weather issue? I live in Texas so don't know if I should fix it or take my chances driving it.
The problem centers around the driver's side floor board which pools up with water. This happened overnight while the truck sat in a driving rain storm. I could not feel any water under the dashboard, so I am thinking it is entering the cab somewhere up the firewall and trickling down under the carpet. We have been deluged in rain and this IS the first time I have had a problem.
B
Thanks!
Is it known to be aluminium? A magnet will answer that question quickly. If they are ferrous and attracted to the magnet, you might have problems.
One sure way to find out if your engine is "Making Metal" would be to remove the oil filter, cut it open, and examine the filter media with a magnifying glass.
If you find any particles big enough to see a serial no., this is bad news. (Just kidding--any sized particles in sufficient quantity is cause for concern)
Another good idea is to get an oil analysis. It will also tell you what the metal is, and thus indicate what the problem is likely to be.
Cooch