Need Advice about repair

debg2

My Chrysler Sebring Convertible seems to constantly have problems. It is currently in the shop for transmission trouble. The warranty went out a few thousand miles ago and all of the sudden it quit shifting gears. We found out there is a sensor that has gone bad and two different Chrysler dealerships that we called immediately knew what the problem was because they have so many problems with the sensors in the 99 Chrysler Sebrings. Is there someone I should call to report these problems. If so many other cars my type are having problems with the sensors, why don't they replace them for free?? It's going to cost me around $200 + to have this repaired and it really upsets me to pay this if it's a common problem with cars of my type. Please advise. What should I do???

adc100

Make sure you have the VIN and get a case #.

Check this for TSB's

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/9912_mo.html

debg2

no message

seelig

call the BBB......1-800-955-5100.
-
you will be suprised at helpful they are, especially with a problem that you have described. they are like the IRS to auto manf. that try to rip people off. to put it another way, i now have a 5yr/100K warranty from my truck manf. because of their support.

Mr_Shiftright

BBB can be very helpful, but remember they are supported entirely by car dealers and other businesses in their district. They are not a government agency and get no public money. So they are industry policing itself. They are not necessarily on the consumer's side, but rather try to bring consumer and business together into a compromise.

seelig

but they do go after the manufacturer when there is a known defect, even when it is beyond the end of the warranty. my "IRS" statement was just a referral to strength, not that they are a government affiliate.

bigbozer

Hi! I have just bought a used 1991 Lexus ES 250 with 170K miles on it. It is a rare 5-Speed manual shift. Whenever I change a gear I hear a "clunk" sound from the front of the engine. I took it to a mechanic and he said the following needed changing: Lower control arms, strut rod bearings and control arm bushings, and lower abll joints. The estimate: $1174.63 +tax. Is this reasonable? Is the noise I am getting very serious? Or can I drive on till the car goes for the 180K mile service? Would it be wise to take to car to Lexus or will this local mechanic be able to do the job? This 1991 Lexus ES 250 uses several Camry parts. So a mechanic with Toyota experience can also do the job, I guess. Any help/advice from you guys will be appreciated.

armtdm

From front of engine does not sound like the parts you describe, could also be tranny issues, motor mounts etc.e tc.

bretfraz

After 170K I am confident there are plenty of things that need repairs. Unless the previous owner spent thousands overhauling the suspension and other key systems, you're looking at a potential major expense.

Find a local repair shop that specializes in Lexus and/or Toyota. Their prices will be cheaper than the dealer. You can use the dealer if you like but with a 10 yr old car, a dealer won't give you much additional benefit. Everything there is to know about the ES250 is out in the open.

Mr_Shiftright

BBB can be a great help, but they have no power whatsoever. They cannot sue, or legislate or anything like that. They are strictly an arbitrator with no legal power of any kind.

seelig

you are so right, but everyone i have ever known or talked to that has used the BBB, has recieved instant results. not that they are of a high power, but rather the fact that the manufacturers somehow uphold a lot of respect for their abilities in the matters when confronted.

Mr_Shiftright

Yes, it is in the best interest of dealers (I never personally have heard of a BBB dealing with a manufacturer, since BBBs are regional organizations and do not extend into other BBBs jurisdictions...they are like Chambers of Commerce in a way)...anyway, it is in the best interest of dealers to cooperate with BBBs, since that's what they are paying BBBs to do for them...seek a solution.

I only mention all this because some people expect too much of BBBs. They have limits as to what they can do, since a dealer can tell them to go to hell and they can't do anything about it. They can't even tell a phone caller t the nature of the complaints against the renegade dealer, but they can mention that there "were some complaints filed".

BBBs should be used early in the game, before arbitration or court.

seelig

i like the way you put that into words.......as a matter of fact, we have one dealer here that makes some great deals, and usually goes out of their way to satisfy me. they do however haave quite a few complaints hurled at them through the local BBB. in my case though, i called the number posted above. it is clear across the country, and within 24 hrs. i recieved a phone call from a GM representative who was authorized to make an appropriate offer for solution. maybe that's why i refer to them being in contact with the manufacturer. unfortunately there is always going to be some type of flaw or mistake when material items are mass produced. when there is a known defect that keeps popping up on auto, it should be rectified by the manufacuter, and not make the consumer pay for the same thing that has been a problem all along just because it is now out of warranty. i have a buddy that had 2 engines installed in his '88 chev pickup. the first was when the thing let go at 2K after warranty, but because GM knew there was a shortcoming with the new model that year, they honored the replacement, not once, but twice. although, all this was through the help of the BBB.

runpanther

I, too, have a Chrysler Sebring Convertible (1999). Recently broke down when my transmission was stuck in 2nd gear. The problem was fixed by replacing the "speed sensor" (thankfully under warranty). - - But ever since then I sporadically have problems shifting into reverse (among other trans problems). I'm still under warranty and documenting everything.

May I suggest you access this website regarding defective Chrysler tranmissions :

http://mypeoplepc.com/members/tjk/home.htm

Also, more importantly, maintain a log of all your discussions with Chrysler along with all of your service receipts. Best of Luck and please post to let us know how everything works out.

Mr_Shiftright

He was probably luckier than most to get anything post-warranty out of GM. I'll bet his dealer and GM are on good terms, maybe a large dealership that sells a lot of cars?

halikarnas

98 acura integra, maintanence req'd light came on, i got 70k on the car. what are possible important maintanences that i can do at this time.

also how can i reset the light?
thx.

dad697278

Dealer failed to replace oil plug properly, 25 minutes from dealership the engine quit,
luckily got the Jetta to the side of the Interstate, steering locked up, engine light came on.
No oil-all over the bottom and rear end of the Jetta. Checked the oil stick, pulled to check-
steam from the oil stick receptical. Called 24 Volks service-waited 2-hours for tow truck
back to VOLKS dealer. Mechanic put another plug, filled up with oil and said"car is fine-
you're ready to go! Am I crazy or what? I refused to take the car (has 16,000+ miles-perfect
condition until now). Service mgr, noone calls until I call the next day to find out what is
going on. CAR is ready, checked out - OK. No diagnostics, no verification of engine ok,
owner refuses to acknowledge problem for 2 days. Volkswagen Customer Car Service tells
me they have NOTHING to do with this-must deal with the guilty party. Dealer says "his people
say the car is OK, same people who failed to replace oil plug back. Anyone know how to force
a dishonest dealer and a really lousy Manufacturer such as Volks to step up and replace this
now damaged engine with a new one? Please advise if anyone has any ideas. THanks.

a_l_hubcaps

It's probably not reasonable to expect the Volkwagen company itself to make good on this, because the problem was caused entirely by your mechanic being careless, not by any defect in the vehicle. However, that doesn't mean you shouldn't do something about it.

I'm not an expert on this kind of stuff, but if I were you, I would keep the receipts (both for the oil change itself and the refill) so you have some documentation, take the dealership to small claims court, and sue for the cost of a new engine.

As for the dealer saying the car is OK, as they say on Car Talk, "bo-o-o-o-gus!" The engine was run with no oil to the point that it shut itself down. Maybe it's OK, but maybe something was damaged due to lack of lubrication and it's going to fail next week. The dealership screwed up big time, and they should be forced to foot the bill to rebuild or replace the engine so you can be sure you don't have a time bomb on your hands. That's my take on the issue, anyway. Good luck!
-Andrew L

mark156

Dear Mechanic, I need some help with a problem that has arisen with my Rolls. This car is well maintained and has 87,500 miles. Recently, I had my local 'Rolls' mechanic replace the radiator, tighten the bolts on the engine, install a new thermostat and tighten the belts. When I got the car back, the fog lights (driving lamps) were not functioning. Now, the electric antenna is not working and the high beam lights blink when my left turning indicator is used. Also, when I turn on the high beams, my left turning signal light comes on. Do you think they did something to the electrical when replacing the radiator? Also, I had the speedometer removed to be rebuilt (had clicking noise). The dash lights not working either. When I told them about the fog lights not working, they replaced a fuse, but when I got it home....not working again. They said the antenna motor has burned out. This all sounds so coincidental to happen right after they repaired my vehicle. Any advise? Mark

jtjackson33

I need to replace the front left turn indicator bulb on my '89 Ford Escort (hatchback). Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove the reflector. There are no screws on the outside. Can't seem to do anything from the inside either. Any ideas?

a_l_hubcaps

I'm not familiar with that particular car, but sometimes the bulb socket attached to the end of the wire can be twisted and pulled out from behind, bringing the bulb with it. Don't twist too hard in case I'm wrong though :-)
-Andrew L

jgmilberg

You have to tak the whole trim assambly from around the head lamp off, the reflector is screwed to it from the back. Don't remove the silver ring that hold the headlight in, just the plastic trim bezel.

mark156

My car is fixed now. When the speedometer was removed, a few wires were crossed causing the electrical problem witht he lights. Repair shop corrected everything---no charge. I feel better now.

M.