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Comments
Steve
We have a 'flag' lot, and my main driveway is close to 500ft long, with the slope the final 100 ft. down to the garage level. In front of the garage is our roller skating / basketball court, measuring 36'x75'. Over 8000 sqft of blacktop in total to maintain/plow. And yes, it makes for a great sleding experience, as long as you make the turn at the bottom. Otherwise, the trip down to the stream could be a killer!
Steve
Greg
I have that burning smell, most prvelant on rainy days, snowy days, when using the defroster. most noticable when getting out of the car after driving. never got that fixed, though I mentioned it to the dealer.
sat. my wife pulled up and I smelled anti-freeze. thought it might be someone elses' car , and then realized that I didn't recall a car driving by recently.
I have not been on this site in a very long time and was not aware of the head gasket problems . I looked under the car , saw the anti-freeze drips. I couldn't tell where it was coming from, thought maybe a heater hose. checked the expansion tank , saw that it was low . to the min mark. thought that was odd, but recalled that I once before topped it off, maybe 6 months b4.
called the dealer, scheduled an appointment for this morning. the car just turned 50,000 miles. they looked at it, said I needed a head gasket. I was shocked , as I said b4, I wasn't aware of head gasket problems. I started talking to a few of the mechanics, and they told me they were well aware of the problem. mostly #4 cylynder side. basically , a gasket failure due to corrosion and delamination. he showed me a bunch of the failed gaskets.
they mentioned they do up tp 6 head gasket failures a week, mostly in the wintertime, probably a result of the temperature fluctuations.
I was told both would be done , under warranty. I asked if they would be using the same type of gasket and was told, they can only use a subaru gasket, not aftermarket , but it is different then the present one. (to prevent a reacurring problem.
I do most of my maintenance at the dealer, including an anti-freeze flush at 30,000 miles. what may be of interest though is I was told shortly (in about 2 weeks ) that they will be using an antifreeze additive.
I told him I could buy stop leak at the auto parts store. he laughed, agreeing with me. he did say it was from GM ,and thats what they want to try. he said 50,000 miles was good , and said many fail at 30,000 miles. pointed to a car having heads done, and said it had 19,000 miles on it.
I'm sorry if this was a little long, but I thought maybe the info would be usefull .
I think this is a great site , and recently because of posts I read on edmunds, I was able to get the toyota dealer to fix my sienna rear brakes from squealing.
before I had the info. they used to say ," they all do that " or "there's nothing we could do"
Jim
Thanks.
Burning smell - Started in the first winter of ownership, and has continued ever since. Dealer had lots of theories, but they were not able to pinpoint.
Shuddering clutch- Stared around 6K miles, but dealer insisted it was within the Subaru specifications and would not acknowledge that a problem existed. Finally admitted that there was a problem, but with 65K miles they could not repair due to high milage. Replaced at 100K for $800.00
Head gasket/Radiator/Timing belt - Replaced at 80K. No need to explain, we all know this one $1,200.00
Check Engine Light - Catalytic converter failure at 90K, both needed to be replaced $804.00
Engine knock at 110K - And last but not least, while sitting at a stop light two weeks ago, the engine began to stumble a bit, and then developed a severe knocking noise much like a diesel, only more intense. No warning lights came on, and the oil level was fine. It was immediately towed to the local dealer. Every external part of the engine was checked first for a problem in hopes that in might not be a serious issue. I received the final verdict from the dealer yesterday, the knocking is coming from the left side of the engine block (same side as the head gasket replacement), probably the rods. Engine to be replaced at a cost of $4,00.00 +
Total repairs for this vechicle for the past year is over $6,800.00. For anyone who is seriously considering keeping your Outback for the long term, you really should be aware of these costly and potential problems.
My intent was to keep this car until this summer, and trade it in for the new 2005 Legacy, but this experence has completely put me off the idea of another Subaru.
-mike
Jack-
All this while, have you thought to had called 1-800-SUBARU3 to open a case?
-Dave
-mike
I also have a 2000 OBW 5MT. I have had some problems 1)replaced front & rear rotors and pads at 36k 2)clutch shudder-replaced clutch @36K 3)head gaskets replaced @ 30K; 4)replaced ignition coil and fuel injector @ 53K.
When you list it out it sounds like a lot, but everything has been performed under warranty (or extended warranty). My wife thinks it's a bad car, but I figure that they did change the OB in 2000, and my dealer has said they "temporarily" switched manufacturers on the brakes. It all adds up to this was a "growing experience". While this may cause some to swear off of Subarus, I am not one of those. I love my Subie. That's why I go any place I can with the car, and I plan on my next car being a Subaru as well. I have a good relationship with my service dealer as well, which is just as important.
On the bright side, maybe I can use everything that has happened to talk my wife into going for an 05:-).
Mark
Three questions from the group:
1> The Subaru dealer service roughly estimated the repair cost (both head gaskets replaced) to be $1260-1300 plus tax. Is this a fair price?
2> How should we proceed with this head gasket case to get it covered under warranty?
3> When our OBW goes in for the head gasket repair, what other maintenance procedures should be done, like replacing the timing belt?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
-John
I'm replacing my 96Accord w/ a 2005 H6 this summer...
Ralph
when I first noticed it , the car had about 9,000 miles on it. like I said b4 , mostly on rainy snowy days , and most likely after a long drive. most noticeable after opening the drivers door to get out.
we have an extended subaru warranty, (7 year 100,000 miles) no deductible. purchsed it on line , not from the dealer where we service and purchased our car. purchased it 3 days b4 the 3 yr , 36,000 miles were up. after that , the available extended warranty, may be different , price and coverage.
I was wondering, does subaru (or other manufacturers) make different repair decisions, based on the fact that you do or don't have an extended warranty.
for example , maybe try a bandaid approach, that might get you a cple. of thousand miles out of warranty , then do the repair on your dime .
just curious.
anyway, all car companies have problems , of one type or another. it's a matter of the type, inconvenience, and how it is dealt with by the manufacturer and the dealer service dept.
we like ouroutback a lot.
we have a '02 sienna, loaded with only 10,000 miles on it . the sub, though 2 yrs older, has 50,000. it's our 1 st. choice to drive. she nor I, don't have an aversion to minivans either.
we would certainly consider this sub. w/ another subaru, but would also see what out there when the time comes.
btw , dropped of ours mon. afternoon for the head gasket fix, still waiting. hope they really do replace both, and not do a bandaid fix. I will check, because , I an always skepticle when it comes to dlr. service dept. . LOL.
There is a good chance that SOA will cover you on the head gasket issue; however, that coverage will probably not be head gasket replacement, but will be to try the coolant conditioner approach first, and then, if it doesn't work, maybe to cover the gasket replacement. In my case, the coolant conditioner fix included warranty extension (for HG and related problems) to 8 years/100K miles, but I am still under the original 5 year/60K powertrain warranty. I don't know if the extension will be included for you since you are over 60K. My guess would be probably. I think Subaru has enough confidence in the coolant conditioner fix that they would give you the extension.
If SOA refuses to cover you, and you are stuck for whatever repair is needed, then you should consider trying the coolant conditioner fix before you pay to replace the head gasket(s). It's worth a try -- $15 for the bottle of conditioner vs. really big $$$.
If you do end up with a gasket replacement, whoever is paying for it, the timing belt would require paying for the part only ($30?). Water pump would be a bit more, but easier and cheaper while the other work is being done, so you have to decide whether to do it as preventive maintenance. Mine had 44K when it looked as though the gaskets might need to be replaced, so I was going to do the timing belt only. But at 66K, I'd go ahead do it.
Good luck!
--K9Leader
I, too, have a Subaru (2000 OBW Ltd. - my daily driver) and a Sienna ('98 LE - wife's daily driver).
We, too, choose the OB over the Sienna whenever we can. We like the Sienna for what it is, and do not regret buying it, but it is really just a big box on wheels, and handles like one. It dives quite a bit in turns, turning radius is poor (my Lincoln Mark VIII has a better turning radius), and the driver's seating position . . . well, I much prefer the OB or the Mark VIII (I regret now taking the LE with the manually adjustable seat instead of waiting for the XLE with power seat).
But, at the time we were in the market for a minivan, the Sienna was the far and away best choice (the Honda Odyssey was slated to come out in a few months, but we didn't want to wait, knew it would be very hard to get when it did come out, and, as it turns out, preferred the Sienna anyway). The Sienna's reliability has been great, the 3.0L V6 is solid and plenty powerful (for a family hauler), it rides fairly well (except in turns), is plenty big enough for our family of four (and two dogs), etc., etc., etc.
But the OB rides better, handles better, gets better MPG, and is more comfortable to drive. We can't take it on longer trips where all four of us plus both dogs are going, but the other 99% of the time it is our first choice.
--K9Leader
btw, the car has 50,000 miles, and although I have an extended warranty, it's still covered under the orig. fact warranty of 5/60,000 miles.
the extended warranty ,picked up the rental car charges.
-juice
They cover it for 8/100. Even if it does fail shortly after that, you could call 800-SUBARU3 and I'm sure they'd help out in some way.
-juice (4 original head gaskets in my car port right now)
G
They gave me a loaner today (great dealership I have in NH) and the poor Outback with 15,000 miles is a WINDTUNNEL. There are serious wind leaks everywhere. I love my OB LTD with 41k miles and just one wind leak on my front windshield near the rear view mirror....
Unfortunate for you, but little you can do now.
Steve
the warranty extension would only be given based on your vin # .
some of this info. I received directly from the subaru3 hot line. I was told the letters have not yet been sent out .
I most certainly would have prefered both head gaskets to be replaced.
I believe in the if it aint broke don't fix it, but since the repair includes a different type head gasket, I'd prefer the other be replaced at the same time.
maybe if the other side goes , I will be conveniently in vermont on my way to canada, and just might have to take advantage of the trip interuption coverage offered in the extended warranty . includes, hotel accomodations, meals , rental car, with limits , of course.
I know the kids love skiing and there's a subaru dealer in rutland, near killington ski mountain.;)
I had called the dealer about having the timing belt replaced at the same time, but the car was done.
I asked if they added the additive to the coolant and was told that they don't have any yet .
-juice
I have a 2003 Legacy S/W with 29K miles on it.
I have noticed several times a burning smell, more like the smell of burning rubber rather than anti-freeze, on those days when I drive with my heater blower motor on high. I seldom need it on high for long, so the problem has not happened all that often.
Have others had this experience and does it need mechanical attention?
I also have a question for "bicalino." Where did you get your after market warranty? Can you give me a link/email address to check it out. As the end of my warranty approaches in less time than ever before (I love driving my Subaru!), I have been thinking about how best to protect my investment.
I'd appreciate hearing what your experience has been.
Thanks in advance to all who respond. David
Larry
I shopped only factory subaru extended warranties for competitive prices. off hand . I recall the name being curry subaru. not the one located in ny. I found them on the web.
since I purchased it elswhere, I didn't mention it to my dealer where I had purchased the car and do my maintenance that I had the extended warranty.
he must have used the vin # and the extended warranty came up.
there is a major debate about wether or not they're worth it.
I look at it simply as piece of mind .
for scheduled service, they have loaner cars available. (if they're available) ext. warranty, you get a rental car , they pay. just less of a hassle .
subaru , within reason, is a fairly reliable car, though w/ the addition of awd, to any car , can get expensive for diagnostics/parts/repairs.
Read the fine print - on one we found an overheat clause that would exclude circumstances such as leaky head gaskets.
The warranty would be useless...
Get a Subaru Gold, or just self-insure, but don't waste money on these insurance policies with big loopholes.
There is a thread here on Edmunds about them, check it out. I've never seen such universal agreement about any automotive related topic, not ever.
-juice
More updates later!
I bet it's either the front main seal or the head gasket, we'll find out soon enough.
-juice
"Found front crank seal leaking and oil pump o rings leading oil. Removed front cover/timing belt/oil pump/ replaced front crank seal/ oil pump o ring"
Well, I sure hope this works out. Also, my car would always search for gears around 40mph and 'putter' and be hesistant picking up speeds at 40mph or around there. That problem has disappeared..would that have been the timing belt!?
So, happy Outbacker again!
Glad to hear it's resolved.
Jim
Mark
Jon
http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/InsiderInfoEndFall03.pd- f
Jon
So, here is BIG ANNOYANCE. I HOPE WE CAN SOLVE THIS ONE!
When I take the key out of the ignition, all the doors LOCK. Then I am trapped...literally!! I have to put the key in the igntion, turn it, unlock and open the doors and then escape. When I shut all the doors and then need to get into the back door, I have to unlock the doors and then, within 2.5 seconds, open them before THEY LOCK AGAIN.
What is up with this!? Have I set it to WAR MODE or somethng!?!?
The only auto-arming feature I've seen on the OBW and XT requires setting a jumper behind the driver's side kick panel - something well defined in the owner's manual, but that my dealer was unaware of. At that, it only sets the alarm, but does NOT lock the doors.
I think someone else on the board has mentioned autolocking doors. I don't know if this means there are two levels of factory alarm out there? My first two alarms were installed at the dealer, the last one at the port, and they're all identical in operation.
I'd get it checked soon - what you've got could be dangerous under the wrong set of circumstances.
HTH
Larry
Thanks,
Jim
Ding ding ding, what do I win for making the right call? ;-)
Mark: I have one, too. Note the hourly labor rates at your dealer, they've gone up a lot! Doesn't take long to break even.
-juice
We are about to take it in a third time and were curious if anyone else has experienced this problem and if there is a known solution.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks
I would start with something very mild and then slightly more abrasive stuff. Try a cleaner wax, then a rubbing compound, for instance.
My dad's OB was vandalized with spray paint, believe it or not some nail-polish remover cleaned up the whole thing. Just be sure to wash it off afterwards.
Attempt at your own risk, of course.
-juice
Then again, the sunroofs are a long way from those rear tie downs, and I would suspect a sunroof leak or clogged drain might manifest itself further forward.
I just looked at my Bean, and the areas I would focus on are:
1) two hinges that support the hatch, since they are riveted into the roof right over the tiedowns you mention
2) two rubber gasket/conduits that go from the roof to the hatch (presumably for wiring and washer fluid), these are also right over the tiedowns
3) rear attachment points for the roof rack
4) weatherstripping gasket around the hatch opening
Out of these choices, I would suspect #2 the most.
If you have time, see if you can pull off the interior trim covering the tiedowns. Hopefully that will allow you to see the bare roof underneath. If you have a helper carefully pour some water over the specific areas I mentioned, you should be able to pinpoint the leak.
Craig
Craig
BTW: nail polish remover contains acetone, and I think that is potentially dangerous to car paint.