By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
CRaig
Any comments . On a other note I got the expansion valve replaced on my A/C and what a difference 50% better cooling. My a/c was making a fog horn like noise upon accelerating .
Mike k in Humid South Jersey .
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
Craig
Thanks
I rubbed over the area with some scratch-out and then applied two coats of Meguair's (sp?) polish and wax.
That seems to have helped a lot, the etching is only visible in certain lighting conditions and angles now.
I also bought some detailing mist and a microfiber cloth to keep in my car!
HTH = Hope This Helps
Owen
anyway, same question as always:
2004 Legacy automatic a good idea? known problems? MSN says that 02 models had CEL and charcoal cannister problems - are those squared away for 2004? are the AWD units on the automatic models hearty and fairly maintenance free?
thanks!
oh, how is the brake rotor quality? do they warp easily like my current Accord? (HATE IT)
Over the first 5 years of ownership they estimate the maintenance cost to average $478/year and repairs $98/year.
I ask because their figures for my Oldsmobile Alero are pretty far off my own experience, so I wonder if this inaccuracy is endemic or just model or case specific.
Steve, Host
It would seem that there's a fair bit of variability in these estimates as well, as Edmunds' 5 year average works out to $693/year for maintenance and $152/year for repairs.
As you said, it's good to have multiple source of information.
My '02 GT Limited just hit 48k, and I decided to do some minor maintenance on my own. Sort of a thank you to the Subee for two great years of driving! Last weekend I replaced the air filter...very easy job. I also decided to tackle the spark plugs myself. I was still running the originals. Actually was an easy $8 job...only took about 40 minutes. Now I would like to put on all new brake pads...the dealer told me at the 45K oil change that they were getting close to replacement time.
Can anyone make any suggestions on QUALITY pads that I should use? I am currenly on the second set of OEM's on this car...they were so noisy and seemed to wear out quickly. I was also thinking of upgrading to cross drilled rotors too. Any suggestions there? Or should I just stick to OEM? Any help would be appreciated.
The next trip to the dealer I think I will break down and get the trans and coolant systems flushed...just in case. I am debating if I want to keep this car another two years until it is paid off...or trade it on a '05 2.5i Limited! Ugh...I should never drive onto a dealer's lot. LOL
AWD is sealed and maintenance-free. The only thing you have to do beyond your boring generic FWD car is the rear diffy, and that's cheap and very, very easy to do. 2 bolts, easier than changing your oil.
Call 800-SUBARU3 about that re-paint. At this stage, it'll be a stretch for them to cover it. There is no way to prove it was repainted before you bought it, and of course noone noticed for several years. That might fall outside of their statute of limitations, if you follow.
Etching? Maybe wet sanding would help? Might need a new paint job though.
Intake noise - check if the snorkus, or intake silencer, is loose. That'll create a lot of intake noise.
-juice
Does anywone know if I need to remove the inner side panel to get to it? If so, what's the easiest way to go about that?
(This is in the Legacy/Outback instructions for the wiring harness.) How can I tell if this car is an "Outback" model?
Thanks in advance,
Ken
I'm sure you can splice into the wiring for the taillights to accomplish that, just be very careful when you do.
-juice
thanks.
senturi
-juice
Ken
You plug in the harness and run it down out of the bottom of the spare tire well. I removed the OE grommet and they supply a new one with the hitch wiring harness that replaces it.
It's sealed nicely because 6 years later not a drop of water is inside.
-juice
Juice, put another feather in your cap for this one!
Ken
Krzys
Ken
Also, your Outback may perform better in the IIHS test because of the extra ground clearance. SInce IIHS uses an impact ram equivalent to a large SUV, I would expect the Outback to do better than the Legacy because the floor is higher and more in the line of impact (to absorb energy).
Anyway, don't give up hope yet. While I am not thrilled by the IIHS results, I still love my new Outback XT and would not want to give it up at this point.
Craig
But judging by some of the recalls we have had on the two we have, I can't believe Subaru wouldn't do whatever they can to fix the problem. It may take a little time as does anything of this nature, but I'm sure they will do a lot of testing and correct anything that would be a safety issue. I am positive you will have a better result than you would get from the BIG 3.
That's just my 2 cents, for whatever it's worth.
I know it doesn't fix the problem, but maybe you can sleep a little better hearing from someone who thinks Subaru has a pretty good product and believes they will stand behind it.
Even with my trailer hitch issue, I still think they do a pretty good job! I've seen a LOT worse!
Ken
You might like to have a look at the results from the Australian testing that put the Liberty/Outback as the highest rated tested vehicle ever.
http://motoring.racv.com.au/racvm/whichcar/bestbuysarticle.cfm?ID- =E338BD55-8265-42B4-8C6C0F440967D981
Cheers
Graham
Also: THERE ARE NO ENGINE CODES. The light never came on, but I checked it anyway... nothing.
I just had my 60k service about 6 months ago (new plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc), and about 3 months ago I replaced the crankshaft sensor to fix a different starting problem.
Any ideas?
-Thanks!
stownsom: yours is an Outback, so I would go with the Aussies test scores as a reference for you. The IIHS tested a Legacy.
Maybe that's why the results were so different? Even then I'd expect similar results.
-juice
After the reset the engine will run rich, but that extra fuel may help cold starts.
Just a thought, and it won't cost you anything to try it.
-juice
Steve, Host
-juice
Is anyone getting that bad mileage? Any suggesions, besides mine of driving the car more?
Thanks,
Mark
But seriously, if you sit still, you're getting 0 mpg. If he idles enough that explains it.
I'd suggest trying to work off-hours, either early or late, to avoid the rush.
I used to do that and it was great, traffic was a breeze. Unfortunately I can't now.
-juice
Mark
Suggest that he combine errands, maybe.
-juice
My commute is 13 miles each way, though, so at least it's fully warm.
To be honest, gas costs would not be my concern, the exhaust system would. You'll have a lot of unburned liquids in the exhaust if all your drives are that short and the exhaust cannot fully warm up.
-juice
Mark
And the Forester is a lot bigger. Both have had basically the same commute.
My Miata manages about 28mpg, but it has an even smaller engine, 1.6l.
So in terms of efficiency for the given displacement, the Forester actualy wins, despite the extra weight and AWD. I can't complain.
-juice
My 2001 outback gets 26 to 28 on average. mostly highway miles. I agree it gets BRUTAL mpg when the engine isn't warm. In the winter my average drops to 23-24 for the same driving.
--jay
Krzys
Ken
Around the city usually get 11.6 to 12.3 litres per 100Km (20.39 to 18.77 mpg), commute about 23 km each way.
Recently been doing some regular longer runs from Vancouver to Pullman WA, 950 miles over 2 days with air-con on all the time. Also cruise control for much of the time to keep a couple of mph over the limit whilst limiting trooper interest! Result was 8.6 litres per 100km (27.5mpg). The engine was definitely warm on these trips as temps were often in the high 30's Centigrade (high 90's).
No complaints with the car after these trips even after 8 hours plus driving with only the odd comfort stop no aches and pains from the seats, either driver or passenger.
Gordon
Do that enough and it'll kill your average. Unless you have a hybrid that shuts the engine off completely.
I track my mileage on a chart to keep a close eye on it. My peak mileage occurs in fall and spring. In summer, I lose about 1 mpg due to the use of A/C. In winter, I lose 2 mpg, probably due to the winter blend fuels (less energy content) and the cold starts.
-juice
Funny thing is the EPA has some automatics rated higher.
For the H6 I'd expect to average about 22mpg.
The turbos vary more, if you drive hard you'll get high teens mpg and if you don't you could get mid 20s.
-juice
Our 04 Accord, which is rated for 26mpg in the city, has seen as low as 17mpg on a tank composed entirely of downtown city driving. Low 20's was common when we lived downtown. Having since moved to the suburbs, the mileage on the Honda averages over 30mpg now, and even my WRX is up to mid-20's.
13mpg is really, really low for an Outback (the lowest my 01 outback ever got was about 17 in pure downtown city driving) but I don't think it's impossible. Ever see the Consumer Reports mpg estimates? They are always WAY lower than the EPA estimates, and quite likely more accurate.
Brian
So - its long enough that my car gets warmed up, but also keeps my around town mileage in my Forester XT (automatic) planted at between 14 and 16.5. Supposedly the 05 turbos in the Legacy / Outbacks will do better on mileage. For the owners' sakes I hope so :<)
I prefer a standard myself, but not with the amount of traffic I drive through. I've seen a lot of converts to automatics after their first couple of 2-3 hr traffic jams.
Larry
I'm curious as to how many more miles I can expect to get on these before replacing them. What have been other Legacy owners experience?
The tires on my car are Bridgestone Potenza RE92.
Thanks to all who post in response.
David