Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    The original Michelin XW4's on my '96 Legacy Outback A/T still had over 3/32 when I replaced them at 69k miles; rotated every 7500 miles and no alignment since new. The replacement Bridgestone Dueler H/L's had 59k miles with plenty of tread left when I traded the car at 128k miles; rotated every 7500 miles. The car was aligned around 75k miles after replacing a rear wheel bearing.

    The original Bridgestone RE92's on my current '03 Outback A/T have 38k miles with plenty of tread remaining; rotated every 7500 miles. No alignments to date.

    I have no idea why your tires don't last. :-(

    What type of driving do you do?

    DaveM
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Wierd. I have gotten over 45000 miles on several recent model Subarus, including my 02 Outback. My parents' 2000 Outback made it to 55000 on the original tires.

    Are you getting all your alignments at the same place? Maybe their rack is out of calibration and you are getting bad alignments.

    Also, what is the treadwear rating of the tires you are using? If you have low TW tires, they can wear out pretty quick.

    BTW, I only get alignments when I get new tires or there is a noticeable steering/tracking problem. So I tend to go 2-3 years or more between alignments.

    Craig
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
  • mlouttitmlouttit Member Posts: 19
    DaveM,

    Thank you for your reply. Your tire wear is amazing! I don't think my driving is out of the ordinary. It's a combination of city and highway. It's not just one driving style either. My wife was primary driver on the 94, I was the primary on the 96, and we have split the 99. The results are the same.

    I estimate that we put 7 sets of tires and had 12 alignments on the 94 in only 65,000 miles. We put 8 sets of tires and had 16 alignments on the 96 in 93,000 miles. We have put 5 sets of tires and had 11 alignments on the 99 in about 68,000 miles (so far). Add that up....

    As for the question in the other post.....I have tried so many different tires trying to find something that has worked. I have tried multiple Goodyear tires, Michelin, Dunlop, .... all the same.

    I have also tried alignments at 4 different garages and the dealer.

    Now, we are talking about western Pennsylvania roads which are horrible but, as I said, I haven't had this problem with other cars that I have owned. We need to get alignments more often than most people that have good roads but I've been able to get decent wear from tires on other cars.

    I would like to consider the new Legacy but I am cocnerned that the new 2.5 GT will come with a tire size that will limit my choices to higher speed ratings and softer compounds that will only make things worse (although I haven't confirmed the tire size yet). I may go to the Honda CRV just to get tire wear!
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Now, we are talking about western Pennsylvania roads which are horrible

    Well, my tire wear is on horrible eastern Potholesylvania roads. :(

    One other thing. Do you run the tires at Subarus recommended pressures? I always run my fronts at 4 to 6 psi and rears at 2 to 4 psi above the recommended pressures.

    DaveM
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,399
    Are the tire companies prorating the wear and giving you credit towards the replacement tire? With wear as bad as you are getting, I'd get a tire with an 80,000 mile wear guarantee and let them credit me 75% on the replacement tire.

    I've replaced RE92s at 40-45k because I want tires with good tread in winter. They could have gone much longer.

    Jim
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    My 96 Outback wagon had 65k when I replaced the XW4's - not from wear, but the sidewalls had cracks on all 4 tires.

    Put Michelin mxv4's on my 99 GT Sedan - currently have 72k on them, and the local tire shop says I can go another 10k. One alignment in 6 years, and rotate every 7k.
  • mlouttitmlouttit Member Posts: 19
    DaveM,

    Yes, I always have run the recommended pressures.

    Mike
  • mlouttitmlouttit Member Posts: 19
    Jim,

    No company has ever prorated the tires because the wear has always been uneven. They all say this invalidated the warranty. I even responded that they were the ones that did the alignment but they all say that I could have hit something that knocked it out and they are not responsible therefore.

    Mike
  • maddymmaddym Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 subaru outback with only 43,000 klm and i have to replace the power steering pump. is this a common fault? the wagon is out of warranty but i would like to take it back to the dealer to try & be reimbursed for costs of replacement.
  • senturi1senturi1 Member Posts: 8
    Help. I had the original Subaru battery on my wife's '02 OB Wagon replaced back in March '04 under warranty. Now again I've noticed more battery corrosion around the top support brackets on the battery. There is some white battery powder dripping drop the front of the battery itself. So far there appears to be no corrosion around the positive post or negative ground post. I am having Subaru service the car tomorrow. The car is garage kept. The OB is driven around 20 to 25 miles daily. When the original Subaru battery was replaced, Subaru said it was cracked. I am not sure what is going on at this point. The last regular service was done on August 3rd, 04. I will note that once in a while I've noticed the seat warmer switches have been on. These two switches are below the emergency brake and can easy be turned on by mistake. Not sure if they will cause this problem.
    Thanks.
    senturi
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Senturi, I had a similar problem with my 00 OB wagon; the white powder corrosion was eating at the battery hold-down bracket and the top of the battery was frequently wet with acid. Eventually I sucked a little acid out of each cell, still leaving plenty to cover the plates, and the problem went away. That was 18 mos ago. Either the battery was overfilled when new or the dealer had been topping it up unnecessarily.

    The electrical load on the battery is irrelevant. But overcharging can cause excessive gassing which could cause a fine mist of acid to emerge from the vents. It will also shorten battery life.

    Remove the affected parts, scrape off any loose or peeling paint and use an alkaline solution of bicarbonate of soda (baking powder) to neutralize the acid and clean the metal parts and the top of the battery. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection, and be careful not to get any alkaline inside the battery. Repaint the battery clamp and any other metal parts that need it with good quality oil-based paint (such as Tremclad Rust Paint).

    Of course, if your battery is actually leaking, this won't help much.
  • rayman2rayman2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy. I bought the car used and I have never had a light that illuminated the temperature control/airflow button console. I check an auto repair manual and did not see instructions for replaces a bulb in this area. Does such a beast exist?
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    There are 3 bulbs in this panel. There are instructions how to replace them somewhere in this forum. Maybe someone else remembers where it is.

    There is a fully illustrated document in another forum - unfortunately, I am not allowed to link from here.

    [editorial on]
    please, mr host, don't slap my hand
    [editorial off]

    Hint: If you google scooby and mods together, you may happen across it.

    Good Luck! Rob M.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    That's where the HVAC bulbs posting is located.
    Not sure how to build a link here, so hope this suffices.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,242
    Thanks, juice!
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  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Wouldn't you know that I need the instructions too? My control light has been out for month! Rob M.
  • joeb24joeb24 Member Posts: 111
    To "maddym" regarding replacing power steering pump: what are the power steering symptoms that indicate you need a power steering pump? I have an 01 LL Bean Outback. The power steering is very stiff most of the time when the car is not moving (like there is no power steering), but returns to normal as soon as the car moves. I had the power steering fluid flushed, but that did not solve the problem. My mechanic suggests replacing the pump next. Another mechanic said the rack and pinion system was binding and needed replacement at a cost of $1200. I decided to live with it for now, as the car is out-of-warranty (64,000 miles).
  • kikokiko Member Posts: 3
    I am days away from trading in my 1997 Outback and have a curious question. My low fuel light has never come on in all the 86,000 miles I have driven it. I tried running it down many times, but the warning never came. Has anyone else noticed this?
    I am trading on a 2005 Limited. Outbacks are great!

    Kiko
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    I have 60k on mine and its come on only once. If I remember I had like 2.5 gallons of gas left and the gauge was pretty much right on E. So you have to really run the tank empty.

    --jay
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Kiko: you have SUV disease. You expect to get lousy mileage and your Outback is surprisingly efficient. Even after 86,000 miles you could not adjust to the improved efficiency, it was so much better.

    :o)

    It's supposed to go on when you have 2.3l gallons left, at least on Foresters. But it's actually better not to run out of fuel because you're using all the sludge from the bottom of the gas tank if you do.

    Good luck shopping for the new one. Gas mileage is even better, 22/28 or 23/28 depending on the tranny. Gas tank is the same size.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,728
    If I fill up just after my light comes on ('96 OBW), it takes about 13.2 gallons. The gauge sits well below E before the light ever comes on. I notice on mine that it will sprint from 'F' to 1/4 tank in about 150 miles, but then takes another 100 to go from 1/4 to 'E'. If I wanted to run the tank empty, it would probably take yet another 100 miles of city-like driving, but I only get 22 mpg cityish and 26 highway and the 2.5Ls apparently *can* get better mileage than that. Apparently. The best I ever gleaned from it was 32 mpg and I had almost 400 miles on the car without the fuel light coming on, but that was a once in a cartime experience!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • sunchosuncho Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Legacy L starts loosing power when i accelerate unless I do it very slowly. CEL came up and currently is almost always on. Changed air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs. After I changed plugs the car ran great for 3 days and than came back to initial position - loosing power and almost stalling when I accelerate. The problem seems to exist only when it warms up.
    Any ideas what the issue can be ? It is very confusing it got better after a spark plug change but than worsened again.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You might have bad plug wires. I'd try those next.

    The ones on my Miata didn't last 30k miles.

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Have you had the injectors cleaned? A bad spray pattern would quickly gas-foul the plugs. Rob M.
  • susief21susief21 Member Posts: 4
    I bought an Outback H6-3.0 35th anniversary model last October (03). I love the car but I am getting frustrated. In March I began noticing that on occasion that the car wasn't starting right, I had to crank the key alot. I took it to the dealer and they reprogrammed the ECM. After that it happened once or twice. Then in June I started to notice hesitation on first acceleration (cold start). Again I took it to the dealer, left it for a week while on vacation. No hesitation was noticed and nothing abnormal noted on monitor. After that I thouhgt maybe I was just overly sensitive since this is the first car I have owned on my own. It continued to happened but no one else confirmed it. Finally in September my husband was in the car with me when it hesitated more than it ever had. He wasn't sure what was up. The next day, it hesitated again (again badly). I immediately took it too the dealer, they kept it overnight and noted a slight hesitation on cold start. After some research by the service managaer, I was told that I had to use 91 octane or higher, otherwise it may hesitate. I am not sure I should accept this answer. I realize that premium gasoline is recommend for maximum performance. I don't consider my car starting and not hesitating to be maximum performance. I am curious if this is true with all similar models or could something really be wrong with my car.
    Too be honest, other than the starting issues, I absolutely love this car!!
  • vetmatsvetmats Member Posts: 71
    I also have an Outback H6-3.0 35th anniversary model that I purchased at the end of August last year. I do not have any hestitation on startup. However, I only put premium gasoline in my Outback.

    I don't think that it is an issue of getting maximum performance with premium; the Outback simply requires premium gasoline to operate properly.

    One of our company cars is a Nissan Altima that requires premium gasoline. If you put a lower grade in it, it hesitates and knocks.

    Requiring premium gasoline is just a feature of the car. Unfortunately nothing can be done about it.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    First of all, the older H6 engines can be hard to start (esp in cold weather) if you don't give the fuel pump adequate time to pressurize the fuel injection system. Before starting, get in the habit of turning the key to on and wait 1-2 seconds. You will hear the fuel pump whir and then go off. At that point, turn the key to start and the engine should fire right up every time.

    Don't know about the hesitation other than to say the engine can act fussy after a tough start like you described. If you start using the above procedure, it ought to eliminate several problems.

    I think the H6 has a sensitive fuel injection system, so it helps to baby it a little on startup.

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    rob: good tip, our 626 was way down on power and hesitating and a "throttle body service" solved the problem immediately.

    susie: welcome, I remember you from the chat.

    Indeed, premium fuel is recommended for that engine, and all the time, not just for hard driving. You *can* use regular fuel in a pinch, but it's not designed for extended use on low octane.

    Sorry to hear your dealer wasn't more clear about that, technically they should have covered that during the PDI (delivery).

    -juice
  • susief21susief21 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the help. I just wanted to make sure that i wasn't getting the run around. I have been using premium gas for about a month and a half. I will continue to do so. Thanks!
  • canpaulcanpaul Member Posts: 10
    We had a similar problem with our 1999 Legacy at about 61K. As the car warmed up it would hesitate and loose power. I changed the plug wires, with no improvement. The dealership read the stored code and found P0325, indicating a problem with the knock sensor. Replacing the sensor cleared up the problem. Have the CEL code read and take it from there.

    Paul
  • johnnyxtjohnnyxt Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2004 Outback anniversary edition (H6 engine), which I purchased about 10 months ago. My car is difficult to start in the mornings (cold start). This problem reared its ugly head about 2 months ago and has progressively gotten worse. Once I get the car running, I have no problems restarting the car. I only use premium fuel. I’ve tried turning the key to on and waiting for 10 seconds in order to let the fuel pump build up pressure (the fuel pump only make a whir sound for a few seconds then goes off) with no luck. Any suggestions to what the problem could be?

    Subaru rotors are junk in my opinion. Steering wheel shimmies and brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. I had the rotors “cut” at around 3,500 miles. The rotors were ok until 6,500 miles. I am now back to “square one” and need the rotors resurfaced. Anybody have any luck with Subaru replacing the rotors? I don’t want to bring this car back every 3,000 miles to have the rotors resurfaced. Any suggestions as to what is causing the rotors to warp? I have an appointment this Saturday to have car looked at.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think you are due for a new set of rotors, at no charge. Call 800-SUBARU3 and be nice, plead your case, I'm sure they'll help out.

    For the cold start, I'd consider a battery warmer and block heater. Pat has one (he's in Canada) and he swears by them.

    -juice
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    It hasn't been cold enough to require a battery warmer or block heater unless you live at the north pole.

    Problem lies elsewhere with cold starting.
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Rotor warp may be caused when the lug nuts were severely overtightned.
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Been there and done that. Until you are beyond 3/36, brakes and rotors are covered under the Subaru "Wear Warranty". Dealers are aware of this warranty and you shouldn't need to complain to Subaru to get this fixed. Check the SOA website under "warrantees". They'll turn your rotors until they are no longer "legal" and then put on new ones. My fronts were turned twice before Subaru put on new rotors and the rears have been turned once. Subaru asks their dealers to use an "on the wheel lathe" when there is warpage, but I don't believe my dealer does it this way. Some posters have torque their lug nuts by hand as over-torqued lug nuts may contribute to warping. My dealer tells me they don't have the time to hand-tighten lug nuts. (They make money by replacing and turning rotors, not by taking the time to hand tighten them. I also suggest you document your rotor/brakes concerns with Subaru's 800#. Can't help you with the cold-starting problem.
  • johnnyxtjohnnyxt Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the quick replies. I don’t think the Battery warmer will help on the cold start. The coldest it has gotten here is about 45 degrees at night. I already called the 1-800# to file a complaint on the rotors. I’ll mention the over torquing to my dealer. If the rotors warp again (which would be the third time), I’m going look into to see if the rotor warping issue would be covered under the lemon law.

    Anybody know how many pounds of pressure the dealer should use to prevent the rotors from warping?
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Over-torqued lug nuts are considered a cause of rotor-warping. Torquing them to spec (the numbers are in the owners manual) is not a guarantee that there will not be any more warping. There are a number of Crew Members who use torque wrenches to tighten their lug nuts to spec and still report warping. This has certainly been an annoying problem, one that will become expensive now that my car is over 36k and off warranty. And I wish Subaru had come up with a "fix" for 00-04 Outbacks. But the problem with warping rotors didn't stop my wife from upgrading her 00 OB to an 04 OB, along with my 02 OB.
  • johnnyxtjohnnyxt Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the quick replies. I don’t think the Battery warmer will help on the cold start. The coldest it has gotten here is about 45 degrees at night. I already called the 1-800# to file a complaint on the rotors. I’ll mention the over torquing to my dealer. If the rotors warp again (which would be the third time), I’m going look into to see if the rotor warping issue would be covered under the lemon law.

    Anybody know how many pounds of pressure the dealer should use to prevent the rotors from warping?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    58-72 ft-lbs is the recommended torque. I usually set my wrench for 65 ft-lb.

    I had warped rotors on my 00 Outback and my 02 LL Bean. I think the rotors were not good on the 00-04 models (seem to be OK on the 05s). But I am also inclined to think that over-tightening by dealers is a major contgributor. I always checked my lugs after a dealer service, and the torque was WAY too high. In fact, if I got stuck on the side of the road with a flat tire and the stock wrench I would have been screwed -- it took a long breaker bar to get the lugs loose one time when I was rotating tires in my garage.

    Bottom line is that it's covered under the 3/36 warranty, so keep after Subaru to take care of you.

    On both my 00 and 02, I had the rotors turned early on (2000-8000 miles) and then they were OK from then on. I traded the 02 at 45000 miles and the rotors were still doing great.

    Craig
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I think the rotor issue went way back to the earlier Outback models.

    My 96 Outback had the fronts replaced at 22k, the backs replaced at 44k, the fronts replaced again at 65k, and the backs where warped when I traded at 85k. The dealer fully blamed my wife and her driving habits for the warpage.

    My 99 GT sedan had over 80k when I had the front rotors turned. The back rotors were replaced at 84k. Not for warpage, but plain incompetence on the part of the dealer. At 80k I was told they were ok. At the next oil change they were supposedly checked and ok. 50 Miles later, I was running full metal on metal. Almost 30k later, they are still fine.
  • goldencrvgoldencrv Member Posts: 6
    It all started this June (it always happens right after the warranty expires). I've got four alternator failures on my 2001 Outback in the past five months which let me seriously question the competence of Subaru and Subaru dealer. One day in mid June the battery and break warning lights stayed on after I started up the car. Went down to the local Subaru dealer. I was told the battery was bad and it cost me ~$180 for a new battery. Drove out of the dealership and 4 hours later I was stranded on the road for exactly the same symptom. The dealer refused to toll the car in so I had to pay $80 for the toll. This time I was told the alternator was out. Fine, ~$300 later I got my new alternator. This one lasted a little more than a month. So did the 2nd and 3rd replacements. Now I'm on a 4th replacement alternator and looks like it's on it's way out as well (the warning lights started blinking this morning). The dealer did contact Subaru on this case and was told this could happen on "older" Subarus. Well, the same design goes up to the 2004 model year.

    Called Subaru to get a case number but no resolution yet.
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    4 failures in 5 months would lead me to believe that there is potentially another issue with the car, such as maybe a bad ground, or bad wire which is causing the alternator to fail.

    There were issues with early failure of alternators in the early Outbacks. My 96 was under a recall in late 1999/early 2000. I had already replaced the alternator in the summer of 99 at 58k. SOA reimbursed my out of pocket expenses as part of the recall.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    But you did get a case number, right? That's the first step.

    Keep all the documentation, I would even ask to be reimbursed for the tow. They should have tested the alternator before they even concluded the battery was bad (it may not have been).

    -juice
  • goldencrvgoldencrv Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your replies.

    I did get a case number from SOA. I'm going bring the car into the dealership Friday to check it out one more time before I call SOA back. I was suspecting there was something wrong elsewhere with the car. Last time the alternator failed I got the service manager (20+ yrs experience) and the master electrician at the dealership to check the entire electrical system. They didn't find anything wrong.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It could indeed be something intermittent, i.e. the problem is only apparent under certain conditions (cold, humid days, for example).

    Document as much as you can about the times you experienced failures, to help them solve this riddle.

    Good luck.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Rotor warping was seen with the Foresters as well. Mine started acting funny around 50K miles so I just changed them out for larger WRX rotors. No problems after that.

    A friend of mine with a Forester has had recurring rotor warping. I think he's swapped out three sets in 100K miles.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I may be lucky but I'm still on my original brake pads at 69k miles.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Maybe post over on Patti's forum so she is aware of this:

    KarenS "Subaru Crew: Official SOA Presence (aka Patti)" Nov 3, 2004 4:11pm

    Sounds like there is another problem or they are really bad at installing alternators. They definitely should have reimbursed you after charging $180 for a battery!! That is completely nuts.

    I wonder if it's an issue with the drive belt system?? Are there any other symptoms other than the lights?

    Craig
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