Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Whenever I drive with the back seats down, I try and secure my items with some rope and the tie downs in each corner of the cargo area. A net would also work very well, but they might be a bit expensive.

     

    I also try and load the heavier items closer to the front to not make the vehicle too tail heavy. If possible, try and guesstimate the total payload to make sure you're not over the vehicle's capacity.

     

    Ken
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,728
    A lot of options here... it depends a lot on what it is you are carrying. Will there be relatively few totes and/or boxes holding all of this 'stuff,' or will everything be separate? If you have a few totes/boxes, then racheting tie downs will secure them very well in the cargo area, but over the back seats there really isn't any good place to secure (at least not in my '96). You may want to either wrap a tie down around the cargo and the seats (lay the strap down before lowering the seat backs, then secure to cargo), or consider confining the cargo to the cargo area and roof rack. Roof cargo is less secure against theft, but if someone really wants it, they'll take it whether it's inside the car or not.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    Outback was the first on my new car buying list, but the driver seating comfort and problem with the ingress/outgress were the main reasons that made me buy the Mazda6 wagon. I went to the showroom twice to see if I can find a comfortable position. Its a great vehicle, if not for the above problem I would have definitely bought it.

     

    I am 5'10", my wife is 5', it was perfect for her, but the car was for my daily commute and I did not want to regret for the next 10 years.

     

    Even today I feel bad that I could not buy it just because of the driver comfort.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Did you look at the Legacy also?? It would be closer to the Mazda6 than the Outback (less expensive than the Outback too) and may have had a more comfortable fit.

     

    Craig
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    Yes, infact I tried all three: outback, legacy and forester. Forester has less legroom compared to the other two.
  • frogfrog Member Posts: 52
    I am so glad to be of help....

    The sound you are hearing is your tires striking the pavement. I have an 04 wagon and just had my tires rotated at 8000 miles and had the same problem. I drove it like that for 1000 miles before I finally drove the hour to the dealership to be told it was excessive tire pressure causing the noise. The dealers often do this thinking the owners do not check it and it normally runs low. This was true for me which made the ride unusually quiet and pliable. Anyway, the noise actually comes from all wheels and just is audable from the front drivers because it is nearest. I believe the uneven sound is slightly uneven tire wear that should scuff of after the tires settle in to there new position.

     

    Try putting the fronts down to 32 and the rear down to 30 and see if you notice a difference.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I called the dealership this afternoon and the service guy said many people came in with frozen nozzles. I told him my Saturn didn't. I told him I came in for an oil change 2 weeks ago and asked if they dilute the washer fluid. He admitted that they dilute the washer fluid and I told him "I guess next time I come in for an oil change I should tell them not to give me any washer fluid."

    He agreed.

     

    I don't get it.
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    Drain the washer fluid?

     

    Real easy! Just disconnect the hose from the washer fluid pump to the first washer nozzle, stick the hose in an empty gallon bottle (milk jug) and turn on the ignition switch to accessory, press and hold the washer button until the fluid tank is empty.

     

    Jim
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Jim,

     

        This may sound dumb, but won't you have the wiper blades moving back and forth as you are pumping out the fluid? Otherwise, it sounds like an easy way to change it.

     

    Mark
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    dumb me.

    I forgot that once I was spraying my Passat's windshield and nothing happend. I tried to fill up the reservoir but it was pretty much full.

    I tried a few more times to spray and I noticed pudle of water appearing under the car. The hose was disconnected.

    Draining would be easy if one can place the jug.

     

    Wipers. You can always lift them and let them mix the air.

     

    Krzys
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,728
    Sure, but is that a problem? If it is, just take some newspaper and place it between the blades and the glass, that should take care of it.

     

    Krzys: True enough! I was considering the hood to be open during this procedure, but it isn't a necessity.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    IIRC, there's two bolts holding the tank. Take them out, remove cap, lift tank, dump fluid in container. The hoses should have enough slack to allow lifting the tank.

     

    DaveM
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    I swear by Prestone De-ICer fluid. It's expensibve (around $3.50 a gallon), but it never freezes, and the formula even dissolves salt - the real problem of winter driving around here (NJ). There's a companion prodyuct, Prestone Bug Wash for the warmer seasons - in fact, Bug Wash is not to be used below 32F.

     

    kcram

    Host - Wagons
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    I buy the cheap stuff from the grocery store, as long as it is at least -40C rated.

     

    Works fine, about $1.79 Cdn per gallon.
  • ttenragttenrag Member Posts: 38
    Well, I love everything about the car except for my seat comfort right now. I don't believe that to be a reason to not get the car...seats can always be altered. I am probably going to have the seat looked at by Subaru. I believe there is something wrong on the inside, probably the springs. I am going to have new foam put in and also have a specialist install leather on the seats....maybe then it will be better.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    Well, yesterday... I figured let me spray as much fluid out as I can while it's raining and before it gets cold again.

    So yesterday afternoon, I open the hood and prop it up with that "much appreciated" prop rod.

    Just as I finish pouring in the new fluid, the wind blows the hood all the way back almost to the windshield, bending the back corners of the hood and chipping paint on the fenders.

    All I could think of is "what the &*$%" I just bought a car with a sticker price of 28K and there's nothing to stop the hood from flying back all the way.

    Never experienced this before with a car.

    The funny thing is is that I had just did a search online for hood struts and found a place called Redline Tuning that makes them for the Impreza.

     

    Ttenrag... I was also thinking out taking the seat out to seat what can be done, but I'll probably break something. It's that bolster by my right hip that needs to go first!
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    but go easy on the symbols, please - that is against the rules :)

     

    kcram

    Host - Wagons
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Argh, that sucks! Sounds like the downside to the lightweight aluminum hood is that it is a sail in the wind and bends easily. But seriously, they should have some sort of stop built into the hinges to prevent body damage like that. If I were you, I would call the Subaru 1-800 number and (politely and calmly) tell them about this incident. If nothing else, they need to know that this possibility exists. And who knows, they may offer to help you out in some way.

     

    Which prop position were you using?? The upper or the lower? There are two places the prop rod can go -- one is near the front of the hood, and this would be the lower or normal position. There is also one farther back that props the hood up high. I can see the higher position being a bad idea on a windy day, but the low position may be a problem too.

     

    Craig
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    No new problems for me (though I still am unable to disable the seatbelt chimes on my 05 Legacy 2.5i MT!).

    I just want to offer good wishes to juice and Craig, who always are here to offer help and suggestions. I appreciate it!

    May your holidays be peaceful, and your travels safe but enjoyable.

     

    Keep the rubber side down and the shiney side up!

     

    Jim
  • sooby1sooby1 Member Posts: 3
    '97 Outback w/ 92K mi. Continually overheats and coolant backs up into the reservoir. Does anyone know what Subaru is doing because I have heard this is not an uncommon problem and that head gaskets are failing left and right.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I think I used the one in front and maybe the prop wasn't pushed all the way in.

    Still... if Subaru wants to become the premium brand they keep talking about, they have to realize that people want more when they spend more. Quality engineering and fit and finish aside, you have to give them more features as well. When the sticker prices start rising over $30,000 a prop rod doesn't cut it.
  • babe915babe915 Member Posts: 34
    your right about the prop rod for a few bucks more they could have used a piston support.I almost had the same thing happen to me with the

    hood going back in a gust of wind but i caught it

    just in time before it hit the windshield. The

    same for the windows that don't work after the

    ignition key is shut off,every car I owned the past ten years the windows can be operated for

    a short amount of time. Now that i am on a roll,

    how about the one keyed door lock that only can open the driver door and not the others.most

    autos you turn the key a second time and all doors open.
  • sugardogsugardog Member Posts: 41
    In the daily paper, car talk section, you know, our friends Click and Clack.

     

    An owner of a 1998 Outback wagon with 60k miles said the front cam seals were leaking. C&C told

    him that this is common on the vehicle.

    I never heard of this. Is this a common problem?

    Can it be done by a do-it-yourself nut?

     

    Sam.
  • tyoung1tyoung1 Member Posts: 1
    bought a used wagon, has 2 codes, 403 I believe and 106.continously putting them out. any ideas as to what to replace to get this car to pass smog would apreciate it immensly, any helpful info
  • larryvlarryv Member Posts: 9
    My wife owns an '00 OBW 4 cyl and has the head gasket problem. I'm considering buying an '05 OBW but want to know if the HG problem was confined to just the 4-cyl engines and during what years? Has it been corrected by now? What about in the turbo 4-cyl? Do the HG problems also appear in the 6 cyl? thanks.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    The problem has never affected the H6 engines. As far as I know, they have corrected the problem in the H4 engines for the 05 models, but maybe someone else can back that up....

     

    Craig
  • taddisontaddison Member Posts: 99
    I don't know if they've made any changes to the gasket design and/or head design for the 2005 2.5i, but I can tell you that the 2005 owners manual does state that you must use the special Subaru conditioner every time you change the coolant; this was the "fix" for the earlier model years.

     

    Tim.
  • russell1russell1 Member Posts: 1
    This happened to me on Christmas Eve. I was driving on the New Jersey Turnpike when the hood of my 98 Legacy opened and smashed into the windshield. It could have been a major calamity. Is Subaru aware of this defect? Have they helped with repairs?

     

    Thanks.

    Russell
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Russel, yours is a different problem. Was your car ever damaged in an accident? Was any work done to the front body area? There are two latches for the hood. Both would have to fail for the hood to pop up suddenly while you were driving. That's very unlikely unless one or both of the latches were damaged or altered.

     

    Craig
  • outbackjeffoutbackjeff Member Posts: 5
    Just purchased less than 30 days ago a 2.5I Outback. Drove it off the lot and the passenger seat rattled and vibrated. I put my hand on the seat and it stops. When I test drove the car, the salesman was in the passenger seat so I heard nothing. Figured the seat just needed tightening up to the floor so when I took it back in for other service, the dealer told me that this was not unusual and that it should be like that due to the new side air bags in the seat. Dealer said they have seen this in other '05's and had similar complaints but they can't do anything because of the one piece seat and air bag assembly. Find this hard to believe. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    Sounds like a load of BS to me. My seat don't rattle and I fail to see how the side airbags would cause that.

     

    Sounds like they are just afraid to touch the seat. May be time to visit another dealer.
  • larryvlarryv Member Posts: 9
    I spoke with the Service Manager of the Autowest Subaru dealer in Roseville CA about the head gasket problem. He says that the 2000-2002 Outbacks suffered from malfunctioning head gaskets manufactured by a subcontractor and that Subaru "has taken over manufacturing of the head gaskets themselves" since then. He says that more recent H-4i engines use a better grade head gasket and that they haven't expirienced problems since. He also said that the XT turbos never suffered from the head gasket failure because Subaru used higher quality head gaskets due to the increased compression in the turbo. Can anyone independently confirm this? Thanks.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    No seat rattling on my 05. Can you pinpoint the source of the rattle a little more specifically? If so, it may be a DIY fix.

     

    Craig
  • outbackjeffoutbackjeff Member Posts: 5
    Hey there - yes you may be right about visiting another dealer. Since they all get paid for warranty work I suspect I can drive across town to the other Subaru dealer. With all the sensors etc for the front passenger seat/airbags I also suspect you might be right about my selling dealer's fear of touching it. Thanks for the reply!
  • outbackjeffoutbackjeff Member Posts: 5
    Hi Craig,

     

    Yes, it rattles due to a (apparent to me) looseness on the left side of the front passenger seat. I can lightly put my hand on the seat bolster and feel the movement of the seat. If I apply a little more pressure with my hand, the seat movement and rattling stops. My first Subaru, and I'm a little disappointed in dealer reaction to this since friends had always spoken highly of their service experiences. It just seemed to me that the dealer needed to tighten up the bolts to the floorboard or something like that, any DIY info would be much appreciated! I may also have to take the advice of the Canadian poster and try the other dealer in town. Thanks - Jeff
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I guess you can start by checking the bolts -- there are four, one at each corner of the seat frame where it touches the floor. First thing would be to establish if the seat is rocking independently of the frame, or if it's the whole frame. If it's the whole frame, I bet one of the bolts needs to be snugged down (though that seems like an unlikely problem, as simple as it is to tighten bolts!).

     

    In my experience, most dealers are terrible at chasing these kinds of problems, in fact, the are far more likely to scratch something or do more damage in an attempt to fix a rattle.

     

    CRaig
  • outbackjeffoutbackjeff Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Craig. With a new car though I expected the dealer to be a little more attentive - but I know people sometimes expect too much -if it were a little squeaking w/o the looseness of the seat itself I wouldn't be as concerned - but what might happen in an accident? You're right, I'll need to weigh their potential 'damage vs fix' on this - I'll check it out as you suggested. Appreciate your input.
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    I don't think you're expecting too much!

     

    I think that on a new car you shouldn't have to touch anything, and the dealership sould be going out of its way to make sure everything is just right and you are happy. Coming off of owning three Toyotas in a row that is the kind of service I have come to expect. There was rarely anything wrong mind you, but the couple of times I had a small problem, it was fixed without having to argue about it.

     

    I'm not sure if it is Subaru owners in general or just the people that frequent online forums, but most of them seem to have a very high tolerance for problems with their cars and/or dealers. They also seem to think it's normal to have to fix it yourself or perhaps they just gave up on the idea of fighting with their dealer to get it fixed.

     

    I personally find that attitude surprising. Perhaps I'm just a whiny and demanding a-hole, but I expect more than that from my car manufacturer and dealer.

     

    Sly
  • dcstevedcsteve Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone installed the armrest extension in the '05 Outback? I bought the extension but the directions reference parts of the center console that don't exist. Can anyone give me a quick idea of how to do it -- it looks like it should be very easy.

      

    Thanks!

      

    DC Steve
  • jdkjdk Member Posts: 4
    Hi- New to the board. 2003 Outback wagon. 45k miles. I just bought this car used. The other day we had a huge downpour. When I opened up the liftgate to get into the cargo area, water poured out of the spot where you access the rear lights. I can't see any cracks (and it appears to impact one of the lights...although there was some condensation in the other). Anyone else experience this? Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Hmm, is there any sign of body work or repaint back there?? I would suspect that maybe the rear "Subaru" lens with the backup lights (that goes all the way across) was not re-attached securely. There is probably a foam gasket between that peice and the liftgate. If it was re-used (previously compressed) then it's a prime source of leaks. You can install a new gasket or just caulk the heck out of the old one. That would be a fairly involved project.

     

    Keep in mind that the water could be coming from somewhere higher, and just collecting down there. So maybe spend a few minutes looking around for water spots and see if you can trace the leak.

     

    I would start by looking for signs of removed/replaced trim panels and see if there was previous work done in the area.

     

    Craig
  • jdkjdk Member Posts: 4
    I've seen a few posts on this topic, but haven't really seen any answers/suggestions. As I'm shifting into first gear, the car shudders/shimmies/bucks and almost feels like it's going to stall. I've driven manual transmissions for a while, and am not really sure what the deal is. Any ideas? It's a 2003 outback wagon with 45k miles. Thanks.
  • outbackjeffoutbackjeff Member Posts: 5
    Well thanks Sly for the backup on the fact that a loose seat on a new vehicle is not just a minor inconvenience. After the car was picked up and I found out that they did not fix the problem, I spoke with the service manager who agreed to go drive the car with me to see the problem once the part to fix another issue came in. However he was the one who told me that they had received similar complaints on 2005s and there was probably nothing they could do about it. We'll see but if this doesn't work I'll continue to work upwards. I also have a Toyota Camry and the service I've received there has been much better than my Subaru experience (so far) - so I agree with you completely. Happy New Year!

     

    Jeff
  • drdave25drdave25 Member Posts: 23
    In most respects, this vehicle is a light year ahead of the previous design (I leased three over 7 years). However, I have been noticing some odd behavior when the car goes over road bumps (sewers, potholes, etc.- yes, I avoid them when possible!). The rear of the car more or less jumps up and lands a little to one side. This occurs at any speed over 30 mph. In addition, the car seems more jittery in cross winds. Before Christmas, driving to Toronto in slippery conditions, everything passed us, semis, Neons - you name it! I've had alignment checked and wheels balanced X2, pressure is set at manufacturer's recommendations. When I got the car, I swapped the Potenza oe tires for BFGoodrich Traction T/As, which got way better reviews. (On a previous Outback, I replaced the Potenzas with Continentals and experienced a similar improvement.). In general, cornering with the BFGs is generally much better than the Potenzas. So it is hard to see the tires as the explanation - it seems more like something wrong with the design of the new Outbacks. Has anyone had similar problems with the 05 Outback? Any ideas on what could be wrong?
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    >>>I am 5'10", my wife is 5', it was perfect for her, but the car was for my daily commute and I did not want to regret for the next 10 years. Even today I feel bad that I could not buy it just because of the driver comfort. <<< To each their own. I'm over 6'2 and weigh nearly 240 lbs. I've driven my '97 OBW nearly 100,000 miles (bought it used, mileage is now 152K) including stints of up to four hours and I find it reasonably comfortable. The Mazda6 is nice-looking, is roomy, has a good V6, and is available with some major rebates, but isn't available with AWD and doesn't have the best reliability record. If you don't like your seats, take your car to an automotive upholstery shop. They can do great things, and it shouldn't cost you more than a few hundred bucks. A friend of mine had a shop put leather into his 2005 Outback 2.5i, since it's not available. Nicely done, about $1,200. He thinks it's worth it because they keep their cars 10 years.
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

     

    I've had the same problem with my 99 Outback. Apparently the sealing gasket behind the light bar can fail with age. Water seeps in, probably between the rear window and the top of the light bar.

     

    Replacement requires a new light bar at $600 here in Australia. Alternatively, a bead of windscreen sealant across the top of the light bar seems to do the trick.

     

    Draining the water out is a pain. Remove the five press studs avcross the lower edge of the tailgate interior trim and lever the trim off. It is secured by press clips across the upper edge and refixing these later is critical to stop the trim falling off.

     

    The lights themselves can be pulled to release any pooled water but there will likely be one or two light fitting spots not used. Drill a fine hole throughh the plastic moulding cut off at the centre of each blanked light fitting and lift the tailgate to drain. Apply gentle heat and air say from a hair dryer through one of the larger openings (eg through the tail light) with air return unobstructed . Took me about one hour to dry out from the lights being half full.

     

    The fine holes can be left open in the blanked mouldings or sealed with something you can remove later such as silicon or even blu-tac.

     

    Cheers

     

    Graham
  • jdkjdk Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Graham- I'm not even sure what the light bar is so I will have to tinker around...

    Is there a brand of windscreen sealant you recommend? Thanks.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Is this after you've shifted into 1st or while you are doing it?

     

    Subaru's 5MT has quite a bit more drivetrain lash than a 2WD vehicle so in 1st, the car will rock back and forth if you use the gas pedal intermittently. It takes some practice to anticipate that and feather the clutch.

     

    Ken
  • njjulianonjjuliano Member Posts: 83
    Well, this will be the fourth time I'm going to bring in the 02 OBW for wind noise on the driver side. First I had the infamous gusset prob, fixed. Next, I had a stalling window (ok, not wind related but....) when they fixed it, created considerable wind noise on the top part of the window. Brought it back. Fixed the top part, but now the noise is generating from the lower left (when I'm in driver seat). I understand somewhat the mechanics of fixing it dealer wise and why it feasibly "transferred" to the lower left, but is there a fix that I can do so that I dont have to bring this in AGAIN.....? Has anyone been successful in eliminating any wind noise on frameless doors?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There are various pressure plates IIRC in the door that need to be adjusted. That's why it's a PITA to fix.

     

    -mike
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