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Toyota Echo Care and Maintenance

rajmoranrajmoran Posts: 46
edited October 2014 in Toyota
Put gas in it. Change the oil.

The end
«13

Comments

  • sluglineslugline Posts: 391
    You neglected to include washing it and keeping the interior litter-free. :)

    Seriously, does anyone have any recommendations on a good Service Manual for the ECHO?
  • Is everyone using 5W-30 oil like the book says? I have no idea what Wal-Mart, Jiffy Lube, etc. puts in a car but I'm guessing 10W-40. I looked under my car and it appears very easy to change the fiter and oil. I was thinking of alternating oil changes between myself and a garage (e.g., 3,000 myself, 6,000 Toyota, 9,000 myself, 12,000 Toyota). I figure that way nobody can complain about my warranty since it will be changed by Toyota/garage every 6,000 miles.
  • A good while back in the main forum, there were several good techniques for wrapping the cold AC line for better temp. control in the summer. Can anyone review those or give me some of the post nos.?
    Thanks in advance
    Don
    Nashville TN
  • I did not write it but I had made a copy. Here is a summary:
    Go to a hardware store and buy a length of insulating pipe foam in the plumbing section. The stuff may be medium gray,
    and is similar to the foam in which computer parts are usually shipped. Probably plastic-based rather than rubber-based
    product, in one inch diameter.
    Go to an auto store (NAPA) and get a box of insulating tape. It's a behind the counter item, not in a shrink-wrap pack. It
    appears to be an asphalt-based tape, two inches wide with a paper backing that peels off. Fairly flexible, stretchable. You
    will probably get more than you will use.
    Open the hood. The ac lines are on your left (passenger side). There are two, one is smaller in diameter (high pressure line)
    and one is fatter (low pressure line). Cut and fit the foam insulation around the low line (the one w/o the sight glass) from the
    bottom of the engine compartment (it's left of the oil filter), up past the filler tube for the washer tank, all the way to where the line enters the firewall.
    Once the foam is in place and your hands are grubby, start cutting the asphalt tape into pieces to wrap around the foam from top to bottom. It will be the world's worse looking (fat and ugly) ac low pressure line.
    (The author checked out the possibility of heat melting the foam but found that no way it will melt, using a cookie sheet and set off the fire alarm).
    So which post was this originally? I don't know. The person who wrote it deserves all the credit. Claimed that this will give about a ten degree drop in air temp. Someone find that original post so we can thank the author.
  • Has anyone had any exsperinance with this repair shop or other in the area??
    Toyo Techs Toyota Specialists
    4185 Clairmont Rd
    Chamblee, GA 30341
    (770) 457-2098
  • astro8astro8 Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I just wanted to know if anyone has changed there gear oil yet? I have a 5-speed..Location of drain and or refill plug and what might be required.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • morefavesmorefaves Posts: 4
    Just Bought a 2002 Echo and was surprised to see Reccommended Mfg Intervals for Oil Changes and other maintenance is 5000- 7500 vs what I'm used to of every 3000 Miles or 3 Months. Are Echo owners following that guide, or still sticking with every 3000 mile maintenance?
  • int250int250 Posts: 6
    Quaker State 5W-30 every 3000 miles at Wal-Mart tire lube...
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Sorry this is so late but I just saw your above post. Its best to get the car up on ramps, but you might be able to get at it with one wheel up on a high curb. The main thing about changing the oil is that there is a splash guard on the nose of the car which needs to be removed otherwise you wont be able to get the bottle of gear oil in the refill hole. Youll need a fairly large wrench to get the drain and fill plugs out. You have to measure them yourself, sorry I havnt done mine yet! But they are both the same size. Id drive the car around for a while and change the oil in the summer to make sure it is good and warm. Also, if you fill the transmission with the car on ramps the oil level wont be correct. I THINK the fill plug is on the FRONT of the transmission, so having it on ramps you would tend to overfill it. Id fill it up then back it down the ramps without the plug until the excess oil drains out, then put the plug back in. Good luck and tell us how it goes.
  • I made the mistake of cleaning off bird doody with a wad of wet paper towels, well I guess I scrubbed too hard because when the water dried up, I noticed the scratches. Can I get rid of these? do I need to wax, use touch up paint or spend and arm and leg to repaint the damage I caused. It's really not that bad, but when you buy a new car you want it to be perfect....at least for a while.

    Please help!
  • mdrewmdrew Posts: 32
    I scratched the whole side of my 2000 Echo against some sharp bushes in my driveway awhile back and got rid of them with this GS27 Scratch Remover cream I ordered from a TV ad. Figured I had nothing to lose, around $10 or so, and it did the job. I've seen others here trash this product as ineffective; might be that it works only on light scratches which I guess mine were. (If your paint is discolored or stripped that's a different story.) I definitely got my money's worth with almost a whole tube remaining for future minor scratches. On the tube it shows a website "www.gs27.com" which I haven't visited since one tube is probably a car-lifetime supply. The stuff comes from France so, bon apetit! or whatever.
  • gaiffemgaiffem Posts: 11
    Thanks for the thanks. It's still working well here in central FL (except for a cracked expansion block in the system several months ago, fixed under warranty). My original post on wrapping the A/C was way back in forum 3 or 4 and you described it perfectly. BTW: my wife still hasn't forgiven me for ruining her best cookie sheet, but it was worth it for the piece of mind knowing that the insulation doesn't catch fire. Cheers.
  • britton2britton2 Posts: 305
    you might want to try Meguiar's Scratch X - you can find this at Wal-Mart and it works well on light scratches - good luck
  • adowningadowning Posts: 1
    Has anyone changed their own air filter yet? Where is it? I will try the air conditioner wrapping. In south Florida it take awhile to cool the car down.

    45000 miles and no problems at all.

    Thanks
  • sluglineslugline Posts: 391
    adowning: I posted this in the main ECHO thread awhile back:

    slugline "Toyota Echo (Sedans Board)" Feb 11, 2002 2:18am
  • I just bought a 2002 Echo and I love it. I have noticed on a couple of speed bumps that I seem to just touch as I go over. The tires were under-inflated, but I am wondering if any one else has noticed a road clearance issue. Three questions:
    1) What tire pressure do you run?
    2) What size replacement tires might improve the ride and clearance?
    3) Sone one with lots more knowledge than me -- do you every add air to the shocks? Could that be an issue?
    Thanks in advance! I am a big Toyota lover from numerous Corollas and a Previa and I'm sure my Echo will do just as well.
  • mscoffmscoff Posts: 3
    what type of results have you gyus had with wrapping the line? any good or unforseen bad results? Thanks , Mark S.
  • I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Oil changes are at 10,000 mile intervals, with oil filters changed every 5,000 miles. It keeps it simple to remember.

    Mobil 1 gear oil in differentials (non limited slip), transfer cases, and manual transmissions is changed when new, thereafter every 100,000 miles.

    Automatic trans fluid is drained and refilled every motor oil change (10,000 miles) using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity. I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it.
  • Hello!!

    My 2001 ECHO's Scheduled Maintenance Guide states that at 30.000 Miles or 2 years spark plugs need to be replaced, which is required under the Emission Control Warranty. I would like to know if there are any newer model owners that can share with me if this is the same guideline for their models.

    I am puzzled by the fact that it seems to soon to change spark plugs. The Corolla 2004 I just bought requires the same change but at 120.000 miles or 96 months.

    Any ideas?

    THANK YOU!!
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    I don't know if there is any difference between Echo's in the US and Canada. Depending on the year, your Echo has either regular (copper) spark plugs, Iridium spark plugs (supposedly good for 100k miles) or Platinum ones (good for 60k at least).
    My 2001 came with Platinum spark plugs that I replaced early @ 40k miles. I did it early because I wanted to ensure my Echo had Platinum plugs.
  • zeus2002zeus2002 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. It has around 85,000 miles and I think it's about time to change the spark plugs, flush the radiator, change the belts, maybe a new fuel filter and a few more things. I'm just wondering how much of this I can do myself. I'm pretty good doing the things like oil changes and brake pads, but is any of the stuff mentioned before possible to do myself?
  • I have a 2003 Toyota Echo. And being an anime fan, I was trying to stick some mini anime figurines onto the dashboard, but nothing seems to stick! I've tried sticky tape, blu tac, double-sided tape, suction caps... they all just slide off. Does anyone know what I need to use to stick something onto the dashboard??
  • echokechok Posts: 1
    First of all I would like to join an Echo owners club. Second, I've just an oil change and wheel alignment at 62k miles. I always use synthetic oil, and change the oil regularly. I didn't really check to see what type they used. Will switching affect the car? I'm worried because the check engine light just went on today. Funny thing is, the car is purring like a kitten, and has never run better. Help?
  • can you help with spark plugs. i was able to change the air filter, and taken everything on top of the engine loose and i cannot find the spark plugs. need help to change them. any advise. thanks, masterfrog
  • sluglineslugline Posts: 391
    It's been many months since I was in there, but I don't remember them being hard to find. I remember that there is a plastic cover on the top of the engine that has to come off before you can reach them. Once that's off look for the wires.
  • only change it every 5000, dingbat. you're wasting your money and quaker state oil stinks
  • cliff5cliff5 Posts: 5
    hey masterfrog -- for the spark plugs!! take off the plastic block cover (on the top - 2 top nuts 2 front nuts) under there on the top of the block you will see 4 groups of (5 i think!) wire bundles connected to plastic caps which are fixed to the TOP of the engine block with one nut each. 10mm i believe. undo these 4 nuts and pull the plastic caps up toward you. each cap is the top of a coil (each cylinder on an echo has it's own coil) for the plug/cylinder. you will need a long spark plug extension because the cylinder is quite deep. that's it.
    hope this helps. cliff
  • cliff5cliff5 Posts: 5
    When I bought my echo (02) I found it strange that oil changed were every 7k km or whatever so I did some research and found that a number of people with echo's and corolla's were complaining of sludgy build up. I decided to change every 4k km and leave it at that. At about 45k km I lapsed and couldn't change for 6 instead of the usual 4 and indeed there was a lot of sludge in the oil (I do it myself-so I see!) - so I recommend to all you people who are taking the advice of the toyota manual and changing every 7/8 k km and then having problems... DO IT EVERY 4!!!
  • I change the oil on every car I have ever owned at 2500 to 3000 miles as the viscosity
    breaks down more or less depending upon how you drive ie highway or stop and go.

    Better safe than sorry.
  • I was told there was a recall for the front seat rugs and metal floorboards.

    I was told there was a Toyota service bulletin but not sure if it is a recall for the engine
    control module. I paild through the nose to have mine replaced. Please advise with what
    you know.

    My iridium spark plugs from rockauto.com for $6.22 each for NGK seems like a good deal
    as the local parts stores want double that!
  • Dear Cliff,
    What size are the bolts holding down the plastic block cover? Also, are they metric or
    the US standard. Actually, is the whole Echo metric or US measurements?

    Are you sure the nuts to the spark plug housing are EXACTLY 10mm as I don't want to
    strip them? What size ratchet wrench do I need for the actual spark plugs in metric or
    US measurement? How long of an extension do I need to get at the plugs, what is it
    called, where is the best place to buy this, and how much should it cost?

    I am a klutz but feel good about myself as I just checked my air filter and it is fine. I
    bought three of them from an online parts broker for about $6.25 each.

    I thank you in advance for your answers so I can put in the iridium spark plugs I also
    purchased from rockauto.com for also about $6.25, of course plus shipping which they
    goose you on as it is dropshipped. My order came from four different vendors but I
    still saved over buying the parts localls ie iridium plugs for $12.

    I find a major difference in MPG when I drive a local highway at 50 to 55 versus the
    Massachusetts Turnpike at 60 to 75MPH.

    The cheapest gas near me as I write this is $2.99. I use WorcesterGasPrices.com but
    this website listing the cheapest gas station prices is national if you scroll down on
    the left hand corner.
  • Hi
    Greywoulf, from the US.(NJ). I have an '03 Echo Sedan. Is there anywhere I can get a repair or service manual for this car?
    Thanks,
    greywoulf
  • Dear Greywoulf,
    After much looking, I have found out that all the major publishers of auto repair guides in
    book format don't have one for Echos. Also, most big box and auto parts stores do not
    carry the oil or air filters as both Fram and Purolator don't make them for the Echo. I
    am very happy with the prices, quick service, and quality from RockAuto.com. Air filters
    were only about six dollars and change and a similar price for the Iridium NGK spark plugs.
    I also bought oil drain plug washers for next to nothing as most oil change places just
    let them slide into the bucket of waste oil. When I had my 88 Tercel, I used to keep these washers aka gaskets in my glove compartment. Oil filters from Rock were a litttle over
    two dollars but they have many types and prices.
  • Not only where is the radiator plug, but what exact size of socket wrench do I need or can
    I just use pliers? I know it is probably in the owner's manual or maybe not, but in Boston
    with hot summers and very cold winters, how often should I flush and change the radiator,
    please. Should I wear medical gloves when dealing with the antifreeze?

    It would be useful information to know about independent repair shops which have a good
    knowlege and experience with Echos as I was just fleeced by an indie shop that did not
    know what they were doing and charged me for their three hours when it was a ten minute
    job. They also replaced a part that was very costly and did not need to be replaced, but
    rather, just cleaned. Make that five minutes.

    If we could share indie Echo repair shop data, we could have a nice network going for
    everyone to benefit from. We all know how expensive the Toyota dealer repair shops
    are.imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimage :)
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    In my 2001 Echo I change the oil every 20k or so. I only use Amsoil Synthetic plus a dual oil filter (by-pass microfilter).
    I do almost 30k per year so I only change oil every 9 months or so.
    Oil analysis shows every time that the oil is suitable for longer use.
  • Would somebody be so kind as to answer my previous questions about the titled topics as it has been quite a while and I would like to do this important maintenace work.

    Thank you!
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    Does the Echo engine have a timing belt or chain? If it's a belt, what is the recommended change interval?
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    It's a chain and should last for the life of the car.
  • Hello! I love my 5 speed 2000 Echo. Have 93K on this well travelled mountain car. Recently I have been experiencing my engine missing or hesitating after driving for 30+ minutes and highway speeds. Once stopped and restarted, it jumps horribly while shifting through the gears. When at 55mph it almost loses power but doesn't stall. I understand we shouldn't have to change the fuel filter but that is definitely what it is acting like. Kind of choking. No check engine like comes on. Please know that I already a) changed the spark plugs, and air filter, along with checking the gas cap, b) changed the mass airflow filter, (all with genuine Toyota parts)
    c) Bent over at the dealership only to have them say they found nothing in the computer, had no one to drive the car and that we needed to change the items I had just changed the week before again. ( Not likely) Help! Thanks.
  • I just changed my oil and put on a Nippon OEM oil filter and used Castrol synthetic blend oil. My next oil change, I will be switching to K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 10-30 synthetic
    oil.

    I have NGK iridium plugs and the tools and will install them when time permits.

    When I have the iridium spark plugs installed and using K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 synthetic oil, my question is, when should I change the oil and filter to maximize the
    engine efficiency, engine life expectancy, and minimize the financial cost?

    Also, does anybody know exactly how to get to the cabin air filter and replace it? I was
    told it is inside the car, behind the glove compartment, but I think I need help. Thank you!

    Sincerely,
    Dan Smith
  • I have the check engine light "on" in my 2001 Echo. I have been told that you may be able to reset the check engine light by:
    1) Clean the sensor with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and that will solve the problem.

    2) Depress the odometer button while the car is running and then turn your engine off
    and then on as this will supposedly reset the computer and the check engine light will
    go off.

    3) Disconnect the battery terminal and then reattach as this will stop the flow of electricity to the sensor/computer and reset the computer so the check engine light will go off.

    PLEASE ADVISE IF ANY OF THE ABOVE METHODS OF MAKING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON A 2001 ECHO GO OFF AND RESET THE COMPUTER/SENSOR ARE TRUE AND WORK,.

    IF YOU HAVE PICTURES IN ADDITION TO WRITTEN INSTRUCTINS, THAT WOULD ALSO BE VERY HELPFUL.

    THANK YOU.
  • Disconnect the negative battery connection. Press your brake pedal down for 10 seconds. Reattach your negative battery connection. The computer will be reset.
  • I just ordered some K and N high peformance oil filters, probably the best on the market that are readily available to
    consumers. I also stocked up on Castrol fully synthetic oil.
    The last oil change I did it myself for the first time and I
    used a Castrol synthetic blend engine oil. I noticed the difference. Now I am fully committed to high quality oil and
    oil filter. I will change the oil and filter myself. The
    local lube places charge $60 for a synthetic oil change using
    a low quality filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. I have been told
    by people who know that Castrol is a better synthetic than
    Mobil 1 but Mobil spends a lot on marketing. My high tech oil filter with four quarts of Castrol fully synthetic oil
    will cost me $25.00 but I will be getting a top performance
    oil filter which I am told will prevent oil dry engine start ups. Sounds good to me. The K and N 1003 filters were $9.00 including shipping. They are $13 in the local
    auto stores and I am sure repair shops would charge $20 or
    $25 for them. I am told my gas mileage will get better!
  • Could someone please tell me the proper transmission fluid to use in my 2000 echo - I am getting diferent stories from different shops - thanks
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    It is specified in your manual. It is only offered by Toyota. Your dealer will be more than willing to do a transmission drain and fill.

    I, however, chose to use a different transmission fluid. It is called Universal Synthetic ATF and you can find it on the Amsoil website.

    As the name implies it is a synthetic ATF and Amsoil also recommends it for the Toyota Echo.

    I've been using it for almost 5 years and the transmission shifts like new. As I drive nearly 35k miles per year I do a yearly drain and fill and only use 3 quarts each time.

    Any mechanic and even you yourself can do it.
  • Does anyone know how I can find a mechanics manual for 2004 toyota echo sedan? I need complete details on the braking system...from pedal to wheels. Thanks for your time, Kim
  • After many visits to mechanics to find out why it seemed that the mass airflow was faulty, it turns out that the air filter housing was loose(worn out cushions on the underside) which shook the maf and caused it to not do it's job properly. A zip tie keeps it stationary until I can replace the worn out pads. No more missing.Problem solved!Price you pay for living on a gravel road with lots of bumps.
  • I own a 2000 Toyota Echo which is coming up on its 60K scheduled maintenance. I have lost track of the Scheduled Maintenance Guide that we received when we bought it. Can someone give me a list of the recommended items included in a 60K maintenance.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    air filter replace/check
    manual transmission oil change
    coolant change
    valve clearance check/adjust
    oil change
    belts inspect/change (wiggle the waterpump rotor with the belt off)
    tire rotation
    ball joint inspect
    tie rod inspect
    brake pad/shoe inspect
    gas cap gasket inspect
    go around under the car and check for loose nuts/bolts
    check exhaust system integrity by plugging the (cold) exhaust pipe with a rag and listening for leaks with the engine running.
    charcoal canister hose inspect
    (inspect all the hoses in the engine compartment you can find)
    brake fluid change
    CV joint boot inspect
    battery water check (if non sealed)
    wiper blade check
    open the hood and truck and clean the debris out of the water channels around them.

    Some of these tings are my own ideas (that doesnt mean you shouldnt do them) Some of these things will have been done already, most likely.
This discussion has been closed.