Infiniti I30/I35: Care & Maintenance

ggbogoggbogo Member Posts: 9
in INFINITI
I can't find recommended tire pressure for my I35 with the sport package (tires size 225/50R17).
Anybody can point me to the place in the manual?
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Comments

  • njbaran99njbaran99 Member Posts: 69
    The Tire Pressure is posted on a sticker under that Arm Rest. States 32# Per Tire. Per a previous post, my I35 Sport Tires came in over-inflated at 37#-39#'s. Remember to check Tire Pressure when are is COLD.
  • ggbogoggbogo Member Posts: 9
    Anybody know how to replace cabin air filter?
    Where is it?
  • ratledgeratledge Member Posts: 233
    I've been told it only needs to be replaced annually, but frankly, I don't know a whole lot about the specifics.

    I've found that mine works very well to protect me from airborn alergens (i.e. pollen), but find that the "recirculate" feature of the climate control leaves a bit to be desired. I travel near a paper mill during my trip to and from work every day, and it does help somewhat, but there is a distinct odor still coming into the cabin if the wind is "just right" (wrong?)...

    As I recall, the item is a bit pricey.

    >Mike<
  • ggbogoggbogo Member Posts: 9
    You wright, it's nice and pricey. That's why i'm thinking to change it myself (probably buy one at Nissan instead of Infiniti dealership. But can't find any references how to change one.
    Any ideas? Looks like it's located around glove compartment.
    Anybody did it ?
  • ratledgeratledge Member Posts: 233
    Well, personally, I've never tried to find it, but as always - when you have further information, please do post it here! I suspect you can likely find the specific part # required by going to the Nissan dealer and getting the part # required for the Maxima, and even then - you may well be able to find it online at a better price from someone.

    As I recall, they wanted $100 to replace it - and I don't think that included the 'labor', which I'm certain must be extensive!   };^)

    >Mike<
  • brigham1brigham1 Member Posts: 1
    There is a printed notice on the inside of the glove cmpt. door. (02 I35). It indicates the filter is washable. To reach the filter one must remove the glove compartment door. Dealer said "plastic tabs" can be broken if not done properly. The filter is between the blower motor and evaporator. Just need info on how to remove glove compartment door.
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    Go to this site for the instruction.
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    Oops! I forgot the address. Here it is:

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/instruct/inst_a33_incabinfilter.html
  • jaydhjaydh Member Posts: 16
    My local; Americas tire dealer states that i would be very happy with FALKON tires. Says size 225/50 R17 93H ok. price would befor 4 tires out the door $558. They are rated 420 AA. Any opinions about this size or mfg.

    In addition, i just had brakes checked and with 40,000 miles on car mechanic stated that still have about 50% left on all tires. Has anyone ever heard of a car going so long on original brakes. I am not complaining you understand! Just questioning.
  • robikjanrobikjan Member Posts: 1
    I'm an owner of 2004 I35. Different sources display different recommendation for fuel. For example, Edmunds.com says "regular unleaded fuel", but Infiniti recommends "premium fuel". I kind of confused. What fuel to use? Thanks.
  • jhinscjhinsc Member Posts: 399
    Read the owners manual that came with the car. It states you should premium fuel, but occasional use of regular if premium is not available is ok. For best performance and mpg, premium is the recommended fuel.
  • avt1avt1 Member Posts: 5
    Robikjan, my manual 2004 I35 and my dealer recommended regular gas. I tried super a few times (which is recommended for "improved" performance) and I did not notice any improvement. Stay with regular!
  • jhinscjhinsc Member Posts: 399
    The Infiniti web site indicates premium fuel as the fuel requirement under specifications for the 2004 I35. I have a 2002 I35, which is identical mechanically as the 2004, and the manual states on page 10-3; "Use unleaded premium gasoline with an octane rating of at least 91 AKI (Anti-Knock Index) number (Research octane number 96). If unleaded premium is not available, unleaded regular with an octane rating of at least 87 AKI (Research octane number 91) can be used. However, for maximum performance, the use of unleaded premium gasoline is recommended." So, nowhere in any documentation from Infiniti is regular or mid-grade fuel recommended. If premium is not available, then it's ok to use regular as a substitute, but they make a point that the recommended fuel is premium grade.
  • yankeebelleyankeebelle Member Posts: 22
    When I bought my car my dealer told me to use mid grade but the car kept knocking whenever under strain of hills and such. But the owners manual says 91 octane and that means premium. I now just fill up with the premium and have had no more problems with the knocking. If you aren't knocking at regular or mid-grade go for it, but I live in an area with rolling hills and really noticed the difference when I switched it to the recommended gas of 91 octane. Some cars just need the extra octane for their performance, my husband's Audi also requires premium.
  • delmar1delmar1 Member Posts: 744
    Beyond knocking....does anyone notice any MPG improvement by using premium versus regular? Some cars I understand have improved MPG by using premium..hench making up for the price difference of the fuel.

    Three old arguments:
    1) Knocking / pinging (I gather that is depends on hills or other strains)
    2) Performance (doesn't sound like it from others here)
    3) MPG (no mention here on the boards)
  • yankeebelleyankeebelle Member Posts: 22
    Here is a step by step instruction put out there by another owner on another board. Good luck !
    http://users.stic.net/dprice/i35/
  • seabushseabush Member Posts: 68
    FYI. The Nissan Maxima (2000-2003) and the I30/I35 (2000-) use the same cabin filter. The part # is 999M1-VP004. I just picked up a filter for my 2004 I35 at the local Nissan dealership for $50.
  • lovethat35lovethat35 Member Posts: 2
    So I appreciate the I35 most for its power, and luxury(and price) rolled into one. However, I am a lead foot driver, and love that extra kick. I already added a K&N air filter, but Im wondering if anyone knows any simple ways to improve the performance on this particular model, without messing up the warranty(if possible). It seems there is very little after-market products offered for this car. I looked at some cold air intakes, but the only one I could find was from Canade, being offered on ebay. Anyone added any simple things(that can be US bought) they can share to give this car some added kick?
  • rjsvarjsva Member Posts: 1
    I just pulled the cover off and there is no filter there to change. Any idea of why that would be?
  • yankeebelleyankeebelle Member Posts: 22
    I just used a non-dealer tire shop and found out something interesting. The I35 only needs a 2 wheel alignment. My dealer has been charging me for a 4 wheel alignment but they cannot adjust the rear, there are no adjustments. My husband did some digging and found out that parent company Nissan tells the dealers to "do" the 4 wheel as a way of checking that the car is still square, in other words they are charging you double to see if your car has been in an accident. We are furious. We've paid for work they aren't doing because no one told us it can't be adjusted in the rear and it isn't in the manual. So next time you need an alignment, save some money and get what you are paying for, a 2 wheel alignment.
  • fgmyedfgmyed Member Posts: 6
    I bought my 1999 i30 new. I have always used regular. I was told the only time you should you should use a higher grade is if your engine is knocking. Despite what the dealer says, the hi tech electronics in cars today ( computer chips ) control all air and fuel flow as well as ignition timing. These cars today are so darn efficient compared to the old carburetor and points/ignition systems the computer makes adjustments for optimum performance. The only time you should use a higher grade is if your engine is knocking.
  • jaydhjaydh Member Posts: 16
    What should I expect to pay for 60K mi maintenance service on my 2002 I-35 Infiniti? What are opinions whether to take to dealer or to local shop. Dealer wants around $1,000 and local shop in area of $500. I think they are both rips. Half of the service is checking this and that. At 60K I still have original brakes. For peace of mind should I think about replacing serpentine belts at this time? Was told there are some minor cracks.

    Any opinions welcomed!

    Thanks
  • shiskashiska Member Posts: 16
    Welcome to the world of entry level luxury parts and service charges! IMO the time expended to perform all the services listed in the service booklet for the 60,000 mi. maintenance (except for the transmission fluid and antifreeze changes) should not exceed two and one half hours plus parts and lubricants.The tranny and rad can be done anywhere, but I would use the Nissan fluids, and,in fact, that is what I do myself. I am fortunate in that I can do most of the labour myself, but even if you can't you'll save money (use Nissan lubricants and keep your receipts if you still have warranty).Having said this I can assure you that the local dealer here would have no trouble reaching the 1K mark for this service if one were inclined to go there. Anyway, GOOD LUCK, and where are all the rest of you faithfull Infiniti owners!
  • al57al57 Member Posts: 67
    trying to help my dad,has I30 with 32000 miles,needs new brake pad front and rear,according to the mechanic the wagner pad numbers dont work for the I30..something wrong with the application? has anyone purchased aftermarket brakes,please provide type and #,or is this a dealer part only??
  • dankcdankc Member Posts: 2
    Anyone here do work on their own I35 and is replacing the rear brake pads similar to the front. What ref brand and part number you used. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say if you were out of warranty to go with a trusted independent shop---but go over the whole list beforehand and set your priorities.

    I say "out of warranty" because if you are still in warranty and say the indie shop puts in the wrong fluid into this or that, that could burn you on a claim. If the dealer can find evidence (wrong color fluid, stripped bolt, signs of sloppy work), he (or the extended warranty company) could use that to deny a claim.

    So if you ARE in warranty, you'd have to really trust your indie shop and make sure every "t" is crossed and every "i" dotted.
  • gomooregomoore Member Posts: 1
    What is the best grade to use for vehicle with more than 190,000 miles?
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi guys,

    I was wondering what is the standard tire pressure for the tires. I red under the armrest and it says 32psi but when i go to 32 psi the tires look very low to me ?

    I keep the rear tires at 34psi and the front ones at 38 psi ? Is that OK ?

    Also the max tire pressure for my tires is 44psi (That is what the writings on the tire says).
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    32 psi is just about right for comfort and traction on this car. Higher psi will save on gas but less tire traction especially in wet weather. Since this car drives front wheels, I would keep the rear tires psi higher than the front tires psi for the traction purpose.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I run mine at 33 front, 30 rear. Seems to work pretty well; I have tremendous grip, even in the rain.
  • dacorndacorn Member Posts: 2
    I bought me 2001 I30 new in Aug. 2000. My rear brakes have always squealed. I replaced both rear calipers, pads and rotors at 37300 miles and still had to do a complete brake job at 46200 miles. Today at 60000 miles they still squeal like all get out. But it is only the rear brakes. My wheels prevent me from inspecting the rotors without pulling the wheels and that is beyond my expertise at my age so I am stuck with my dealer. The car has always been garage kept and used for trips of 180 miles or more. I just doesn't get driven that much. I am going back to my dealer in a week or so to see what can be done. This is stupid.
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Just to eliminate brake squeak, I suggest to replace stock brake pads with Ceramic brake pads. The pads come with the car is Semi metallic ones. Their dust really make squeaking noise. Dealers do not carry ceramic pads. You can have them at brake shops like Sears. Try this link: http://auto.sears.com/Infiniti-I30-SATISFIED-PRO-CERAMIC-VS-DISC-BRAKE-PAD-SETS/- Product.htm?catalogId=10623&productId=2008447&N=200742836+2000
  • george1960george1960 Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on and I took the car to a dealership where the service mgr. said it was the oxygen sensor warning. He said to replace it was $411.00 plus tax. I declined at the time because the part was not in stock. He also said it may not be a problem until I sel the car and need to get it smog certified. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did it cost to repair/replace?
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    edited May 2011
    I changed 4 Oxygen sensors on my I35 with $50 a piece (Beck/Arnley universal one). My friend who used to work in a Toyota shop did not believe those sensors would last but he helped me to replace them anyway. Now at 60,000 miles after the change at 100,000 miles, the warning light has not been back.
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Member Posts: 16
    edited May 2011
    Hi,

    My "Check Engine Light" (on my I35 with 70k miles) came on intermittently for awhile and my mechanic said that it was the O2 sensors. He said that although he could replace them (two sensors), he didn't have the test software required to test them. I waited until I needed an emissions test before going to the dealer. When I did the dealer replaced and test the two senors (there might be four in the car, not sure) and charged me $711.00.
    It fixed the problem.

    Note; make sure your first step in solving the Check Engine light is to insure the gas cap tightly on (i.e. 4/5 clicks)
  • nightwolfnightwolf Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buying a 1998 I30 with 108,000 on it. The only thing I really see wrong with this car is that it has a front valve cover leak that I think the dealer is going to fix for me. Both of the hood openers are bad and a fog light is out. With taxes tag and title out the door how does 4000 sound and why so cheap for a supposed luxury car and more expensive for used toyota and other imports?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that's not cheap at all. That's full dealer retail.
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