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Has it caused any problems? ....besides you having anxiety attacks? :-)
It's an electronic speedo. It's not going to give precise readings when at those low rpms...especially when you're cycling though the geras.
If it it's not causing any malfunctions, then don't sweat it.
Anyone know why is it doing that or is it normal? Anyone have the same problem with their windows?
The window is designed to go back down if it hits an obstruction like an arm hanging out or someone's head. :-)
It sounds to me like there may be some mechanical binding in the mechanism that is telling it to stop and go back down. When your sister uses the "constant up" mode instead of the automatic mode, it is over riding the "head crush" safety built into it.
Have her dealer look into it. It doesn't sound like anything major.
I remember back in the winter of 2001/2002 when I first had my RSX, My drivers window would squeal on it's first trip down on extremely cold mornings. It didn't squeal going up and it never did it on the second pass...only on the first trip down on very cold mornings. ( you're wondering why I would roll my window down on extremely cold mornings?...toll booths)
It hasn't done it since though...probably just a tight mechanism that has found it's happy place.
:-)
What almost was the deal breaker though, was the insurance premium. I wound up switching insurance companies. The company I've had for the past three years, no claims, was showing no mercy, so I hit the road to the tune of $2200. +/- savings.
PS: The car is fun to drive, rides a little harsh for my taste, but certainly fun.
My kids pay their own way with vehicles. They know going in that, what they want they will have to foot the bill for, for the most part. We do help a little and I lent her what she didn't have. She was willing to pay the high premium, but I figured there was a better deal out there.
chico: that sounds like a bunch of bull - if the antenna is cut, why are you still getting FM without a problem, when FM is harder to pull in? But if the bad reception happened at the same time as the tint, there may be something else related to the tint that is causing the problem. Offhand, I can't imagine what.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Eric
Good luck w/ your clutch. :shades:
In your sister's case, if she doesn't have tinting for the front windows, then she might have some crap that is lodged at the bottom of the window, which is obstructing the free motion of that window.
Since it's "only" a month, I don't think I need to worry about the suspension settling or anything like that, which, from my research, is typically done to cars that won't be used for many months. Thanks.
How long does it take for tires to flat spot? Another reason for driving it more frequently.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As nippononly said, a short spin once a week would be good for it. Enough to let it get up to temperature and give the brakes a little work out.
The brake rotors will probably see the most damage from sitting since they are bare steel. The short drives will keep the rust build up to a minimum.
I can't decide on the 2 and I don't know how to tell which would use more gas.. :confuse:
Or wait, do you mean vs the Civic SI? In that case, the RSX will do a little better because it is geared higher. It is easier to keep the SI on the boil (which may or may not be more fun for you), but because of the SI's shorter gearing it also gets a little worse fuel economy.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks.
What shud I do?
Wud appreciate some help.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
http://www.jjproducts.net/jj_products_htm/products/Acura/AcuraRSX/index.html
http://www.hondacuraworld.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ARSXAR&Categ- ory_Code=ARSX
I'd like to know about the quality and the ease or difficulty of installation process.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2. i was also wondering that since i have to disconnect my battery since i'm going out of town for a month (thats what my dealership recommeded)...how should i store the wires?...should i wrap them in tape?...if i do, then it will be all sticky and difficult to remove when i try to take it off...or should i just leave it as it is and make sure it doesn't touch metal?...also, about that, how would i make sure that it doesn't touch metal? whats the proper way to do that...? any help in this regard would be much appreciated...thanks
Just bought an 05 RSX-S and am wondering if it is worth it to buy the extended warrenty. I don't drive more than 10,000 miles a year and given their repution I think I can get by with just the basics. Any thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
get it looked at
oil change at my dealer costs $29.95
My RSX gets serviced at dealer's, and they want oil change every 3,000 miles. Accordingly, Maintenance Req'd light comes on 3,000 miles after service.
Does anybody know how to turn it off?
Thanks, Vickat
The manual says the maintenance light does not come on until 8000 miles after the last service, flashing intermittently until 10K miles have elapsed and then remaining on solidly after that. So they may be forgettting to reset it sometimes if it is coming on only 3K miles after the last service.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Also, I wonder if anyone has heard this one: when I turn right onto a street with an incline, and if I'm going over 5 mph or so, I get a very loud bang in the driver rear side (sounds like somebody is hitting the "top" of the car with a baseball bat as hard as they can - it doesn't sound like I'm bottoming out - it scares the daylights out of everyone in the car even if we brace ourselves for the possibility of the sound!). Anyway, I've emptied the trunk and also double-checked the spare tire equipment - everything is secure there. Anyone else hear this one?
Taking it in to the dealer next week or so for another check up.
I would find a berm or something that you could slowly drive up onto to tilt the car (in a parking lot or something) and have someone outside the car as you slowly tilt it to determine exactly where the noise is coming from. Have them touch the car if possible (and if safe).
I have looked at several CPO 2002, but some of the dealers are crazy. Any thoughts between:
(1) '02 RSX-S; CPO, 35K miles, $17.8 (Dealer needs to knock of at least $1K before I waste my gas to look)
Or
(2) '02 RSX-S; private; 43K miles, $15.1
I am also skeptical about the first year of a new model. Did Acura get it right (as much as possible) on the first try?
$15.1K on an '02 with 43K miles would be a little low in my area. Bet it needs tires and brakes right off.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
1. are these even around the reasonable price? I checked the help link in the left column and got a quote for around $162.
2. why they have such a huge price fluctuation for the same service?
3. should I not go to a Acura dealer to do the service?
need your helps, guys. cause I am living in the middle of nowhere in illinois and plan to drive 2 hrs to Chicago this weekend for maintenance. :confuse:
I read my dealer's listing of services performed for a "major maintenance", which he has also told me I should do at 30K by the way, and half the things on it are things the manual NEVER calls for, ever, in the life of the car. Let alone at the young age of 30K miles.
For reference, the dealer wanted me to do a "minor service" at 10K miles, price $135. However, all the manual calls for is tire rotation and an oil change, which they did (plus cleaning the car) for $65. $60 saved right there, and the car was only about 8 months old at the time.
Oh, by the way, questions 2 and 3 above: (2) prices vary from dealer to dealer because they are not all doing the same needless crap, some of them are doing MORE needless crap, and some are doing less, and (3) you don't have to use the Acura dealer if you don't want to, but make sure to keep the receipts for all your servicing, just in case there is ever a warranty issue. As for going to an independent, just take the car's manual with you when you go, and show them the page listing what needs to be done.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
1. are these even around the reasonable price? I checked the help link in the left column and got a quote for around $162.
I'll go back and check my records. I seem to recall paying around $200, but I'll try to confirm that number for you. Keep in mind, my cars 30,000 mile service came around the summer of 2002 so maybe prices have gone up?
Also, they might have given me a price break because I was the highest mileage RSX at the time and they were using me as a "test rat". When ever I went in for scheduled maintenace (LOL...once a month just about) they were always extremely interested in how the car was performing...how I liked it...blah blah blah
Anyways, I'll try to get the actual number for you.