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Jumping a Battery Correctly

chewyjeepchewyjeep Member Posts: 1
edited March 2014 in Jeep
My jeep was loaned to a friend when the battery went dead. He tried to jump it but he did it incorrectly. He had the positive to the positve and the negative to the negative. Doing this caused lots of heat, he burnt his fingers disconecting the cables. And a little smoke, he wasn't sure where the smoke was coming from, but the battery is completly dead. The battery didn't respond at all, before there was alittle juice left but after it was completly dead. We havn't tried jumping it again yet, was there any long term damage done, or she we just go and try to jump it the right way now?

Comments

  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Member Posts: 207
    Reverse polarity can do bad things to the electronics. What year? Does it have EFI?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually the way he did it was right....positive to positive, negative to negative....or maybe you just stated it incorrectly?

    ANYWAY--if he did reverse the polarity and really cooked the battery, I definitely would NOT try to jump start it! I'd get a fresh battery and install that and then assess the damage.

    Hard to say what might have happened, but it could be pretty bad or you could get lucky. Mostly I'd worry about things like alternator and ECM damage. It might depend upon what was operating when he did what he did.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    Try again. Nothing to lose at this point. + to + and - to engine block of the dead car. Idle @1,000 rpm for 15 minutes. If no go - new battery. Good Luck. P.S. First clean the battery cables and terminals of the dead car.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If your battery was completely dead, which could mean it had no energy or only a small fraction of the normal energy, the booster cables can overheat easily and will of course become very hot. The capacity of booster cables varies with wire gauge, and unfortunately there are many cables sold with inferior size wire.
    Appreciate how much current is being drawn by the starter-usually hundreds of amps, varying by model, temperature, etc. Your trying to pump all this current through those cables, and even the small resistance they have will cause a voltage drop that is dissapated through heat.
    I've seen people actually get the cables so hot that the insulation melted or caught on fire.
    It sounds like the cables were connected right, I suspect that you need to charge your battery properly and test it with a load tester.
    Jumper cables, which the proper term is actually booster cables, are only meant to boost a battery that has a charge level just below that necessary to operate your starter.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, attempting to boost a completely dead battery can be risky. I really don't recommend it.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,677
    ...I've always heard that was the best way to do it, but why is that? I've done it both ways, and really haven't noticed a difference. Years ago, I was jumping one car with another in the dark, and accidentally touched the cable against the wrong end. Made one hell of a spark, as I recall!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, that's one thing right there. A battery contains hydrogen gas....think "Hindenberg Disaster"....
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Yes, it's generally safer to connect the negative lead from the good battery to the engine block or frame of the vehicle with the bad battery. The positive cable should be connected first. That way any sparking will occur away from the battery, with reduced chance of a hydrogen gas explosion. I've only seen one battery explosion in all these years when connecting booster cables, and one is enough.
    A small spark is normal when connecting a fully charged battery to one that is low, since current will start flowing right away into the low battery.
    Some old timers used to only use one cable from positive to positive terminals then have the bumpers touch (in the days of chrome bumpers), but it's not a good idea since the quality of the connection will always be suspect.
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    A saw a tip on the Ford/Mercury site to avoid damaging the electronics in a car, from a power surge, turn (in both cars) all accesories off and turn on the blower (heat) on. The blower is a plain DC motor with coils that would absorb a voltage spike.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think that info is actually in the Ford owner's manual.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    try reconnecting the cables again and open the dead car's door. if the dome light comes on, try the radio with all other accessories off. if that works, there is a real good chance that you didn't zap any critical electronics, and try the jump start under normal conditions, after letting the dead battery soak in electrons for a minute or two with the "good" car idling high, accessories off, ignition switch in lock, lights off, etc.

    note, warning, gasp, etc: if the dead battery is frozen, do not continue. very ugly possibilities. it must be thawed or replaced before trying again... and frankly, if you got the acid neutralized and froze the old battery, I would just take it in as a dud and get a new one. a battery that freezes, even down at 20 below Fahrenheit, is probably sulfated or shorted to death, and might pose a fire or explosion risk if you used it as a load on a good battery. remember, 650 cranking amps plus the alternator output on the good car is enough power to weld battleship plate.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Batteries do in fact, explode, and quite violently, spewing acid everywhere. I've seen it happen, and it isn't pretty. So do be careful.
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    Maybe you should charge it using a battery charger. If the battery has a very low charge, its best not to leave on jumper cables for the length of time needed to get it fully charged. Those cables do get very hot. Better to hook up a battery charger that drops its output as full charge is reached. If the meter on the charge does not indicate that the charging rate has dropped to near zero after several hours, then you probably need a new battery.

    If you switched the connection on the battery during charging, there is a high likelihood that you fried the diodes in the alternator and will need a new one. And there is a chance of frying the computer chip. Just give the bill to your buddy.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My recommended approach would be to just buy a new battery for about $60.

    If the car starts and all electricaly things seem to work ok, no problem. Unless the battery goes dead again in a short time. If this happens, its time for an electrically knowledgable mechanic to get the jeep.

    If the car will not start and/or it does but lots of electrical things are not working, the jumpstart might have fried the electrical system.

    In either case, you should have a better idea where you need to go next if there are still problems.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,677
    If you have a battery charger with a trickle charge (2-amp) option, and enough time to kill, I think that's actually the best way to bring a battery back to life.

    About 5 years ago, I was in a serious financial crunch, so I had the habit of taking the cheap way out (buying cars at the junkyard, etc...). Well, when my '67 Catalina needed a new battery, I bought one from the junkyard for something like $15.00. Took it home, put it in the car, and it promptly died. I tried to charge it, but it just didn't seem to want to take a charge.

    It had just enough juice to turn the lights on, but that was about it. Well, I'd heard somewhere that sometimes you can revive a dead battery by letting it run completely dead, and then slowly charge it back up. So I turned on the lights, and let it sit until it died completely. Let the trickle charge bring it back, and I think I ended up getting about 4 years out of that junkyard battery! That Catalina is hard on starting, too, so if it was a crappy battery, it would've gone pretty quick, I'd guess.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    A few months ago watched a good samaritan about to jump start an elder lady's Taurus. Suggested the way to connect the cables +to+ and then - to engine of car being jumped. Well the Taurus started but smoke began to pour out of the alternator and then I saw a lot of sparks in it-told the old lady to drive to a garage first thing-her alternator was toast.

    Don't know how or why this happened-everything was done correct. Says to me jump starting can be hazardous to your engine. Regarding exploding batteries-had one to blow up in an Olds wagon while driving-really ugly-blew battery acid all over hell. Had anyone been around it would have been really nasty. So those exploding battery stories are not myth and the eyes you save could be your own. Be careful out there.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    hard to say what happened there, but Ford does specify quite clearly in their owner's manuals how to jump start the car. I believe they recommend running the heater motor and perhaps there are other precautions as well.

    People need to read this stuff!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    <<People need to read this stuff!>>

    No kidding! There are some very key tips in here, so I've changed the discussion title to "Jumping a Car Battery Correctly," in the hope that people will read and learn.

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