Volkswagen TDI Models

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  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I have been considering an 03 Jetta TDI wagon 5 speed because of its utility and high mileage(will not buy a sedan because only the wagon is made in Germany). These vehicles are very hard to find and if I find one, it is always a silver one. What is it with the silver color on this car? My local VW dealer had one on his lot, silver of course, I found only silver one at another dealership, and finally they told me they have four in transit, all silver. Does this car come in any different colors?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #603

    I think it comes in silver also! :)
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    The question is why does VW of America assume that everybody likes a silver color car? You can find other Jettas in every available color, but not the TDI wagons.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I was led to beleive the available color choices was BECAUSE of where they are assembled. Some of the colors seen the brochure are ONLY applied in Mexico... thus they are not available on the wagon.
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    Most of the ones around here are dark blue.
    Same with the Jetta sedans.
    But my wife says she's seen lots of silver ones too....
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If you dont mind a personal observation about dark cars, ie Jetta wagons, I would tend to stay away from them. 1. dark paint such as red, burgundy, dark blue, black, tend to need more and constant surface maintenance. 2. darker paint tends to wear or fade much faster 4. since horizontal surfaces tend to wear 5 times faster than vertical surfaces anyway it is easy to get behind and stay behind the paint degradation and maintenance power curve 5. dark paint tends to show imperfections better, like swirl marks etc etc.6. the more you wash and dry and wax dark colored cars the more chances you have of putting imperfections on the surface. 7. dark cars tend to hold in heat roughly about 10-20 degrees more on a hot day than a white or silver color. A spin off of this greater heat is that after you have spend much and quality time putting on a high quality carnauba wax, a stint in the hot sun can in effect melt off the coating you just so scrupulously applied!

    Whatever color you chose, I wish you the best with your new TDI wagon!.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I was actually looking for a white car, which is nearly impossible to find around here. One problem I have with silver and other light metallic paints is that they are difficult to repair when scratched or damaged. If you have to repaint a door on a silver car, you may have to paint the whole side of the car to match the color. My neighbor had a light gold metallic color car and its rear quarterpanel was damaged in a collision. After the repair (they only repainted the panel), you could see difference in the color shade from a hundred feet away.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Actually I was looking for a white car also. Most of my cars are white. I have a convoluted story about why I got a reflex silver TDI. :)

    My first color choice obviously would have been white. For almost all the reasons/ disadvantages I stated for the dark colors, the white color goes in the opposite direction! One other issue that I did not mention is that white is app 8-12 times more visible than a darker car. (not in a white snow storm of course)
  • shortyjlgshortyjlg Member Posts: 4
    Hey all, when I'm cruising at 75 mph, should my tach be at 2800 rpms? does that seem high? I have a 4 speed automatic jetta wagon.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    During my italian tuneup after the Susquehannock Trail ProRally...

    110 mph going up a mountain was around 3800 rpms.

    at 75 mph (to 80) on my 5-speed it does about 2800 rpms.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The TDI will run all day long at 75% of redline and truly that is almost the sweet spot! (5100 rpm redline/3800=75%)

    I am guessing that 110 mph @ 3800 rpm will post app 42-43 mpg. I know that 100 mph at slightly less rpm will post app 43-46 mpg and that is with 3 folks and app 200#s of luggage and the AC at full tilt.
  • wgn4snowwgn4snow Member Posts: 17
    I am considering a wagon. First thoughts were Honda CRV or Subaru (probably a Forester). But the idea of a TDI makes some sense.

    I currently drive an Acura 1.6EL (Canadian 4-door Civic Si), which is 6 years old and still runs like it was new. I am now accustomed to that level of reliability. The downside of the 1.6l Honda engine is that you get great fuel economy up to 55mph or in the city if you keep the revs in the 2500 rpm range. Above either and mileage drops like a stone. Drive it with any degree of enthusiasm, and you are quickly into the high 20s of mpg (US figures) at best.

    I have read through much of this board, but I still have a few questions should anyone have an opinion to offer:

    1) How does the diesel handle life in the cold, and by extension, how is the Jetta in the slush/snow of a Toronto winter? How long does it take to truly warm up (e.g. 10 minutes of driving? more?)

    2) How realistic is highway and city performance with the TDI? I am referring to driving performance rather than mileage. Can you merge with confidence on a highway, or do you try to tuck in behind a semi and hope he doesn't pull away from you before you can get up to 60mph?

    3) How will a TDI (wagon or sedan) compare to a Honda product in terms of quality, reliability, and unplanned visits to the dealer for service?

    Thanks.
  • tccroupier58tccroupier58 Member Posts: 7
    i've been looking at both passat and jetta wagons. would to buy a tdi jetta wagon as it would be a good all around utility vehicle i believe. i keep thinking about the back seat leg room and cannot bring myself to make the jump. am 6-0 but i do intend to spend time in the back seat on trips. am afraid i won't enjoy as much as i would a passat so i have bid on a passat in auction on ebay. are the a good car"? this one has 101k miles. as i saw, sebring95 mentions they are a rare find. what are they valued at ? i can go by edmunds since they're in that business, do you think one would be worth more than TMV and what should i look and look out for in buying one. Thanks, i'll look for messages, and appreciate hearing from all.sebring95,natescape,allhorizon,moparbad,8u6hfd,bpeebles am especially curious as to what you can input . Timothy Lee
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    Timothy,

    Could you wait for the Passat Diesel, or are you looking for a used car? Or are you in one of the states that may not get the next Diesel vehicles?

    My second car is a '94 Golf, and at times I am in the back seat, at 5'11'. It's OK for an hour or so. I can stay there as long as in any other car if the person in front of me is smallish (<5'4") and the seat is not all the way back. It is definitely tight with three in the back, for anything longer than 1/2 hour to 1 hour.

    - D.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Performance: I don't think you'll be diappointed compared to the Civic. The usable torque of the TDI is much better and once you learn the power curve it's very easy to merge and/or blow by most traffic. The great part is if you feel you need more power, it's cheap and easy to add large quantities. A simple add-on smart-box will give you a real kick in the pants for around $400 for the best on the market. It'd be like spending $1500 in performance mods on the civic to get similar increases.

    Cold life: Using good diesel and (I recommend) a diesel treatment during the winter will ensure easy starts. It's easier to get bad diesel so it's important to find quality fuel. 99% of winter starting problems from a TDI are from a bad batch of fuel. It's not THAT common, but can happen. I've never had an issue, but I always buy fuel at stations that pump a lot of fuel, and I use Stanadyne treatment in the winter. A premium diesel (if you can find it) like BP Supreme will make a TDI run extremely smooth and quiet and will likely never smoke on start-up. I run that exclusively now that I found a supplier.

    As for heat: It does take at least five minutes of driving before you start getting heat. Idling doesn't help too much either, you really need to drive it. Within 10 minutes you should be toasty. Two things to help this issue are seat heaters and a coolant heater. You can add an electric heater quite easily and plug it in. Put it on a timer to come on a couple hours before you leave and you'll have instant heat. It's an issue with diesels, they run so efficiently they don't throw off a lot of heat like a gas engine.

    Reliability: Well I really doubt it's going to be as trouble free as a Honda. Quality wise, I don't see a big difference. My Jetta was put together very nicely, feels fairly solid, excellent fit/finish, etc. Keep in mine we're talking economy cars here and compared to my Audi it's junk but so is any other economy car. I've had very few problems with my TDI, but I'm not one to run to a dealer every time I hear a little noise. Most german cars are quirky at best. It all depends on how involved you want to get with the car. I can do most any repair/maintenance myself so little things here and there aren't a big issue. I'm coming up on 70k miles and beyond the power window regulator issues, I've had no problems. Got some squeaks and rattles at times but overall it just flys down the highway and gets mid 40's running speeds well in excess of the limit. If reliability and zero problems are at the top of your shopping list, find yourself a 35mpg gasser like a Corolla. The performance, driving, and substantial feel will be lost but you'll probably have an extremely reliable appliance. Although my last two Toyotas have been more troublesome than any vehicles I've ever owned.

    Snow driving: IMHO it sucks, but I live out in the boonies and the roads don't get plowed. The Jetta stays in the garage when snow is coming. Most people say they go great in the snow, and that may be the case in areas that have fairly well maintained roads. Between the steep hills and lack of road care, I don't deal well with cars in the snow. The Jetta sits rather low as well which doesn't help in my case. I'll let someone that drives in more of a situation like yours comment more.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The Passat TDI's on Ebay usually go for pretty good $$ and you don't always know what you're buying. It's good to know some history and really look one over as good maintenance and a mint car can be worth a lot (because it will likely last another couple 100K miles). My email is in my profile, I'll put you in touch with someone that specializes in TDI's and he is very good at finding excellent used Passat wagons for reasonable prices. He has an excellent reputation at tdiclub.com and I personally know of people getting great cars through him.

    Unless one of the front seats is moved all the way forward, I have no desire to sit in the back seat of a Jetta for any amount of time. It's a kids back seat IMHO. Even a car seat is a tight fit. If I regularly hauled around people, this wouldn't be my car.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Sebring95 pretty much gave the most accurate description of a Jetta TDI. I don't own one presently but occasionally drive my neighbours TDI. He purchased a set of steel tires and bought winter tires to be used between December and March.
    Although here in southern BC it doesn't snow frequently the car has performed flawlessly on snowy roads, as long as the snow is no more than 4 or five inches deep.
    The difference in ride quality between a Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic and a Jetta has to be experienced. Test drive the Jetta and any of the Japaneses compact cars on the same day and I'll bet that you would prefer the Jetta over all others.
    In a accident I would rather be in the VW and not one of the Japanese cars.
    Of course there is quite a price advantage for the Japanese.
    If ride quality is your priority, buy the Jetta.
    If economy is the foremost goal, buy a Toyota Echo. I know, it's ugly and quirky but you get used to it. It has the same interior volume as a Jetta and gets up to 45MPG. My 64k miles average with an automatic is 42MPG and there have been no repairs whatsoever. Just fluid and filter changes as with any other car.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I think the other balance is what % of time is spent with more than one or two passengers. Or probably what % of total drive time do passengers spend in the back seats. I am almost willing to bet it is usually a very very small %.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are the above experiences with or without the ESP option?

    My research has told me that the ESP option is perhaps the VERY BEST OPTION ONE CAN CHOOSE because it gives so much for such a small expense.

    http://www.bosch.de/k/en/esp/index_flash.htm

    Not only do you get EDL (Electronic Differential Lock) but you also get the skid-control. Most folks that have driven an ESP-equipped car in the snow report that it is almost impossible to force the vehicle into a skid.

    For the Record, I traded a 4X4 Honda Cvic for the Jetta TDI with ESP. But have not had the opertunity to drive in the snow yet. So I ahve no actual experience with it yet.
  • tccroupier58tccroupier58 Member Posts: 7
    Although I am anxious for the new passat tdi to get here, I in the mean time have bid on a 97 tdi on ebay,106k miles 7.1k $. What do you think?Thank you allhorizon thank you sebring95.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    just fine for me in the mountain roads which are usually late in getting plowed.

    Like any car, AWD or not...the key is good snow tires.
  • tccroupier58tccroupier58 Member Posts: 7
    AM CONCERNED ABOUT MAINTENCE COST ON TDI. WHAT WOULD BE A FAIR PRICE TO REPLACE TIMING BELT OTHER BELTS AND WATER PUMP? WHAT WOULD BE THE DEALER PRICE? CAR IS NOT A JETTA BUT A PASSAT TDI 1997. Timothy
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    find natescape....he posts every now and then. He has a 1996 Passat TDI.
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    Not long ago someone posted that you should change the oil at 5k, 10k, and every 10k thereafter. However, when I read the manual it seems to me I should change it at 5k (done), and every 10k thereafter, meaning 15k, 25k, etc. Any thoughts on this?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    it's 5k, 10k, 20k, 30k, etc.

    It's worded as cumulative miles
  • wgn4snowwgn4snow Member Posts: 17
    Thanks to both of you for the detailed replies on the Jetta TDI. I have had no free time for the computer over the past 2 weeks, so this was my first chance to read them.

    I appreciate the advice, espcially regarding economy and the Toyota Echo. I like to drive, however, and I like the throw cars into corners. I have yet to see an Echo driven by anyone with less than kid gloves. So, no, there will be no Echo in my future. Also, why would they put the speedometer in the middle of the dash?

    I did stop by at a VW dealer and sit in a Jetta wagon last week. The leather seats felt as "stiff as Krupp's steel". Do they loosen up a bit over time? Normally I like a stiff seat, but these felt like iron. Is the cloth a better choice? (There were no cloth seats in the showroom). I have read previous posts suggesting leather if you have a family (I do) but we also have a strict "no food in the car" rule. Since I have no desire to eat and drive, I figured this could be my one "line in the sand" that I could actually win. So far, it's working. :-) That being said, is VW cloth (veleur?) viable over 7+ years, or leather still the better choice?

    And as to snow, I should have prefaced that question with snow tires included. I am a firm believer in the right tire for the right season. It amazes me that people will spend US$40K++ on a car, then not bother with another $500 for proper winter rubber, yet complain that the car handles terribly in the snow. Snows are for helpful at getting you out of the snow covered parking lot, but they are mainly for stopping on snowy or slippery roads.

    And that brings me to my last question: brakes. How are the VW's brakes over the long term? Do they stop well? Even with proper changes of brake pads (or whatever), do they fade over time (by that I mean months/years, not repeated stops on the same trip)? Again, I am coming from a 2600lb. car with excellent brakes, but also with much less weight to stop.

    Thanks again.
  • mr_tdimr_tdi Member Posts: 5
    I am new to everything. Mainly this discussion board, manual transmissions and TDI engines.

    I purchased a 2003 Golf TDI GLS and have had only one problem: After filling up the tank (14.5 Gallons), I drive about 400 miles (mostly city, some highway) then the tank is near empty. That is only 27 mpg! The ratings say I should be getting 42 mpg. I figured that I must be doing something wrong and maybe you pros can help me out.

    Before you start saying how much of an idiot I am, hear me out. I had just learned how to drive a manual transmission the day before I bought the vehicle. The VW salesman actually gave me some pointers. Well anyway, some of my friends say shifting early saves gas, while others say shifting around 3,000 RPM is more fuel efficient. I know ok, I'm an idiot. Why don't I just ask a professional? The answer is I don't want to look like an idiot, I would much rather sound like an idiot. So lately I have been shifting at 2,000 RPM but still no luck. Am I doing something wrong or do you think it might be the car? Could it be any other factor that is giving me such poor mileage? Thank you very much for reading the very annoying post of mine. I only hope someone did not ask this before, then I would look like an even bigger fool. Thanks agagin.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    I don't know how well VW brakes last over huge mileage, but with 27k miles on mine, they still work as if they were brand new. I can stop on a dime, and they are perfectly smooth (my old car warped the brakes like crazy every 30,000 miles or so for some reason).

    Mr TDI, I would say that there shouldnt be anything you could possibly be doing wrong to get gas mileage that bad, you should be able to redline it in every gear and do better than that. I would say there is definitely something wrong with the car, you should bring it to be serviced immediately. The car is not performing as should, and thus they have to fix it under warranty.

    You will get better gas mileage by shifting lower, but you don't want to always drive it like a granny either, because that may lead to your intake clogging up over time. Its good for the engine to get a workout on a semi-regular basis.
  • mr_tdimr_tdi Member Posts: 5
    Thanks! Very quick reply. Thats what I thought either. Oh I forgot to say, I had to get my car serviced within the first week because the Glow Plug light kept flashing. They replaced some computer module part or whatever, again I'm an idiot.

    Now the Glow Plug light doesn't turn on at all when I start the ignition. Could that be the problem? I don't know....I guess I'm just having a bad experience with my car. I was hit by a very stupid lady in a parking lot (a parking lot with two cars in it, mine and hers). My windshield cracked as well. Hey, doesn't the California "lemon" law say if your car is has 3 major repairs on it within the first year, you are entitled to a brand new one? I read that on the envelope my License plate came in. Well thanks for reading again.

    Oh the chip that mods TDI's sounds excellent, my cars so messed up how can one little chip mess it up anymore? Also, I guess I am lucky because I got my first oil change for only $65 instead of $70! Lucky me! (LOTS of sarcasm.)
  • mr_tdimr_tdi Member Posts: 5
    My Air conditioning/fan control and stuff does not work as well. I checked the huge fan by the engine as well, not working. What could be the problem? Oh by the way I just had a subwoofer and amp installed, that could be the reason but is it a blown fuse? I have no clue. I feel sooooooooooooooooooooooooo uneducated.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I suppose 27mpg might be possible depending on the extent of your city driving. If you're idling a lot (and I mean, more than driving) when you're in the city, then 27mpg might be possible. This would be a case where engine hours would be a better indicator. A typical 4cyl gas engine might get 20mpg under those conditions. If it's typical stop and go, normal around town driving, then 27mpg is a bit low. It is possible though between your learning to drive a manual tranny (possible slipping clutches, overrevving, etc.) and the fact you have a new engine. Gas mileage will increase as the engine breaks in.

    I just turned 67k miles this week and I have factory pads all around. Stops darn fast. Shocks are shot though. Other than that, fairly trouble-free cruising.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The glow-plug light should come on at least briefly EVERY TIME YOU TURN THE KEY TO "RUN" before starting.

    Most lemon-laws talk about 3 failures OF THE SAME KIND in some prescribed timeframe. I guess this means that they get 3 tries to fix a problem.

    I do not mean to 'brag' but My wifes new TDI got 43MPG on the 1st tank and has been getting over 52MPG on the last 4 tanks of fuel. At least 600 miles between fillups. It is about 100 miles between 'tickmarks' on the fuel guage.

    ...Just trying to point out that your TDI is not performing as expected 8-(
  • mr_tdimr_tdi Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for all the tips, they really helped a lot. So did reading the FAQS page of tdiclub.com...I learned a lot more than what I probably would have never figured out. I am at about 350 miles on this tank with 66% of the diesel gone so the mpg is a lot better than before. I miss my car though because I just brought her in today to get the fan/air con fixed (under warranty! vw is the best!) Even with all these problems I am having, I still love my car. You just have to remember that you will almost never get a "perfect" car.

    Also, I am almost at 10,000 miles now.....any recommendations on what type of oil to buy? I was reading the list on TDIclub.com, but honetly it just made my simple minded brain hurt (I am not familiar with car linggo). The website stated the Castrol oil used by the dealership is good but doesn't even fit the requirements stated in the handbook, so now I am wondering if my best bet is to buy my own oil. Here's my car info: 2002 Golf TDI GLS 1.9L. I really don't mind spending a ton of money, just as long as the oil will be better for my car in the long run. Thank you very much guys, you are all my heroes! I hope to become as knowledgeable as you all some day.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Since you have a 2003 TDI, synthetic is the brew to get. I didnt get a sense of where you are, but in the San Jose CA area, Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 is available at the local WAL Mart. Chevron synthetic is also good. If you want to go to a group 4, I personally use Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40. Other group 4's are Redline,Amsoil,
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    I use Delvac, it seems to be the best you can buy. The Rotella that ruking suggested is also good, its what I used for my first change since I couldnt find Delvac. After reading horror stories about dealer screwups and seeing what a ripoff the price of service is, I decided to do my own.

    Its super easy if you pick up an oil pump that sucks the oil out of the top, you don't even need to go under the car. Just suck the oil out of the dipstick tube, replace the drop in cartridge style oil filter, fill the oil back up, and you are on your way! An oil change costs me about $26, which is less than half what I would be paying the dealer to do with worse oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yeah, I have been hearing of prices of 72 dollars for the oil change at the dealership's. I also have an evacuation tool and it really saves a load of time and is less messy to boot. For the cost of the first oil change you can buy Delvac 1, oil filter, AND the evacuation tool. With the evacuation tool the first oil change at 5k took all of 10 mins!!! Of course I took an extra 10 mins to marvel at how fast this oil change went! :)
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    I had free service for the first 60,000 kms on my TDI New Beetle. Did VW drop the free service, or do people just not know about it?

    RE BRAKES: The VW 4-wheel discs are awesome brakes ... way better than most Japanese cars.
    My Beetle TDI has > 150,000 kms on it (95,000 miles) and has all the original brakes ... rears are about 1/2 worn. But I'm on my 3rd set of tires (Yokohama Avid V4)
    Still 53 miles to a Canadian gallon (45.5 US MPG) with cruise control set between 80 and 85 MPH on I-5

    MILEAGE & PERFORMANCE
    Driving in slow city traffic, my revs range from 1500 to <2000 RPM. But in normal driving, I'm passing everything and shifting below 3000 revs.
    You want it to be just below 1900 revs AFTER you shift on acceleration to use the torque band.
    And guys with the trip computers report that mileage really drops over 2500 RPMs.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    One additional comment about your poor MPG....

    There have been several people that reported that the injection timing was not within specification right from the factory. I was lucky enough to locate someone with a VAG-COM that was willing to spend some time with my new TDI.

    Using his VAG-COM, we set the EGR according to the tdiclub FAQ. We also displayed a graph of the injection timing. (He said mine was very good) He also said that the last brand-new TDI he had checked had the injection timing so far out of whack that the VAG-COM refused to display the graph.

    BOTTOM LINE: I suggest you hook up with someone that has a VAG-COM and check the injection timing. This may be the source of your extremely poor MPG.

    To locate somone with a VAG-COM in your area.... see the tdiclub "VAG-COM LIST" there are 100s of folks out there that are willing to help you.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    It was dropped in 2002, in exchange for things like a 5 year/40 mile bumber to bumper warranty...
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #641

    As an above poster stated: my 2003 VW Jetta TDI does NOT have FREE service. It does have 4 year 50,000 mile warranty and roadservice. (which I hope never to fulfill on) The rust protection is also guaranteed for 12 years.

    I was happy to hear you having good luck with the VW Beetle TDI brakes with 95,000 miles on the original pads, especially with the rear pads. Most of the informationI have read on Jetta brakes indicates that I need to really check on the rear pads going on 25,000 miles! While they have "made improvements" to the 2003 brakes, this is a case of "time will tell in the real world" Nonetheless I have a set of F/R Mintex Red replacement pads, and have a source for rear rotors should I not be as lucky as you with your brake mileage.

    On the flip side it seems a bit odd that you are on the third set of tires approaching 95,000 miles ! The stock Goodyear LS's (which are probably not the best tires) give me an indication that they might go 75-80k. with not too much of a problem. While this may be meaningless, I have Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires with a 220 rating and have 52k on them and they started out with 8/32 tread, seemingly they have 10-15k left on them. Goodyear LS tires for the Jetta start with 11/32 tread and have a 360 rating.

    My fuel mileage seems to mirror yours: 45.3 mpg (three persons in the vehicle, 200#'s of luggage, air conditioner full blast, cruising at XXX.) When my wife drives it for her daily 50 mile commute, it returns upwards of 47-51 mpg. I still can't get over how good this TDI mileage is!!!
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Member Posts: 24
    Mr. TDI, I had the same problem (e.g., very low gas mileage), when I first picked up my car....it also seemed rather "doggy"...but what'd I know. I found out, while driving it, that the brake pedal, when depressed, wasn't returning to the original position...so when I stuck my toe under it and brought it all the way up, INSTANT performance improvement! (Duh). VW fixed it immediately, giving me a loaner car and such. I also got my 5K going over (oil change, check and tighten and so on), for free, but will be doing my own minor maintenance from now on. I think I'm going to go with Amsoil, which appears to be pretty highly rated and easily locally available. Any comments on that?

    Also, my original tires are Michelins.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #645
    In these days of persnickety engine warranty denial, I would be careful. The bottom line is: ask the dealer that you will get to do any engine warranty fulfillment. The first thing procedurally they do is to take an engine oil sample. Some Redline and Amsoil products ( excellent oils by the way) advertise they have passed applicable standards in in house testing/tests, but do not wish to come under the standards program to actually wear the certification label. So what they do, is say they will evaluate and adjudicate on a case by case basis and help to write letters to the OEM if you should be refused engine warranty service due to related oil concerns. So it puts the onus on you to exhaust ALL avenues of resolution before they will even evaluate it. So while engine failure due to oil related concerns is VERY VERY VERY RARE, it is WAY easy to deny warranty if you do not fully comply. Then you have to prove it was arbitrary and caprious !!! So if the worst case is alright with you, they are actually good oils. I don't buy them because 1. they cost more than off the shelf oil (in my case Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40) 2. tack on shipping. 3. not commonly available. 4. while they work well in extended change intervals (up to 25,000 miles) going beyond the manufacturers recommend cycle can void the warranty, so for warranty purposes, conceptually you lose the benefit of extended oil changes. So that causes me to ask the question: is buying this product worth the (whatever percentage) higher cost/bang for the buck? If Redline and Amsoil were similarly priced to Delvac 1 (5 dollars a qt) that would encourage me to use them. I have seen Redline at like 8.95 a qt. Amsoil priced at 5.20-5.95, but shipping adds app 1 dollar per qt!
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for your questions and concern. I was thinking Amsoil because others on this forum had recommended it, and it is available locally (no shipping). My understanding from their website (Amsoil), was that it did meet the VWxxx guidelines, and is CG4 service, which is what the manual requires. During the first oil change (at the dealer), they used Castrol Syntec 5W40...which I can get at the local Walmart...but it's not at greatly reduced prices or anything. And no, I'd no intention of bypassing the warranty periods (I am a little leery of the 25K claims). I'm just trying to do the best/right thing. Thanks for your input.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I am curious what is Amsoil, available locally selling for, for a qt gal?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (vzh9p7) The castrol synthetic that the VW/Audi dealships use in the TDI Is not available anywhere else but at the dealerships. This is apparently manufactured SPECIFICALLY for the VW/Audi TDI engines... or at least it is only imported to NorthAmerica for them.

    Dont take my word for it, actually LOOK for Castrol Syntec 5W40 anywhere else you choose to look. You will not find it.

    The biggest difference that TDI owners have reported between the factory Casrtol and the Delvac is the soot-handling charistics of the 2 oils. Do not forget that a diesel with ExhaustGasRecirculation tends to put a lot soot into the engine oil. This, in itself is not a big problem. The issue is how the oil handles all of this soot.

    The Castrol tends to let the soot 'ball up' into little chunks and stick to the engine internals. This makes the oil on the dipstick look pretty clean.

    The Delvac tends to clean the soot from all of the internal engine parts and hold the soot in suspension. This makes the oil on the dipstick look very black.

    This is EXACTLY why folks have been saying that, with the proper filtering, the Delvac is used in OTR trucks that travel 100,000miles a year. It is DESIGHED to handle all of the soot that is thrown at it.
  • mr_tdimr_tdi Member Posts: 5
    They really love to charge u with whatever they can dont they? Just gave my car yesterday to get my aircon fixed, they SAID it was under warranty. They called me this morning saying it's not under warranty and that'll be $300 please. Punks. Oh and for those of you who will do anything to your car with anyone BUT VW, watch out because your warranty will be down the drain. They will come up with any excuse to deny your warranty. "Yeah your car smells funny, so your engine warranty cannot be honored." (Huge exhageration, but you know what I mean anyway). (I go to VW of Hayward, anyone know of a dealership that will actually honor the warranty?)

    My mileage is getting better. Thanks to all of you who gave me those great tips. Thanks also for the oil recommendations. My first oil change was a whopping $65 or something, so I hope to get my next oil change for anything but that. After reading what bpeebles had to say about Delvac, it sounds great! Will using Delvac kill my warranty? I am going to teach my kids about cars, so they won't be as clueless as I.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #650

    Delvac 1 will keep your warranty in effect. While there are other oils, Delvac 1 seems to be one of the premuim oils of choice among TDI'ers. For me to use Mobil Delvac 1 brand was hardly a stretch, being as how I have used Mobil One SS 5w-30 for over 600k miles with 15k oil and oil filter change intervals.

    Since over the course of 100k miles (and hopefully much much more) you will change your oil a total of 11 times (if you follow the OEM 10k interval) you might want to consider DIY for the oil and oil filter change.

    Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words ,http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB17&- Number=285874&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&- fpart=all&vc=1

     But here are the words anyway. :) The tool that makes this SO easy is an evacuator unit that lets you evacuate the oil from your oil pan through the oil dipstick opening. Then just pour a gal of Delvac into the oil filler opening. This way you do not have to go under the car, do not have to jack up the vehicle and use jackstands, and you can ala carte the services you want to a dealer or independent or if you start to want to, DIY.

    According to your estimates of 65 per oil change @ 11 oil changes will cost 715 dollars. If you buy the evacuation unit (45) 11 oil filter inserts (6) and 12 gal of Delvac 1 (5) the parts prices will be app 351 dollars. Whatever you decide, welcome to the TDI community!
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    How old is your car, I thought it was brand new!?!? Any problem other than maintenance on a new car should be covered without question, unless you took a hammer to the A/C compressor or something. If they are being a problem about it, just bring it some place else, and make it clear they are no longer getting your business. I am sure wherever you bring it will serve you no problem, unless you happen to be unlucky enough to live near two awful dealers.
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    My car didn't come with Good-years ... it came with Michelin "Energy" 205-55/VR-16 tires.
    This model is also called "eco-squealers" because of the tradeoff of handling for mileage.
    My approach to mileage is to avoid acceleration by not slowing for corners.
    When I replaced the worn Michelins with Yokohamas on the front only, I almost lost it on the first 270 degree clover-leaf loop (running over 55MPH on a "slow to 30 MPH" corner) because the car no longer understeered! With Yokohamas on the front and Michelins on the back the cornering was neutral.

    But I didn't dare rotate that combination (And the Yokos are directional, so side-to-side isn't an option). So when I wore out the yokohamas on the front then I just had all 4 replaced with Yokohamas. The Michelins on the back actually had decent tread still........

    So, at 95,000 miles, I've just finished 1.5 sets of tires, and started on new ones.

    Personally, there are only 4 makers of decent tires: Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, and Michelin. And Michelin's best are THE best (if price is no object). But if you want high performance tires that actually last under hard cornering then Yokohama is the only game in town.

    I know my tires would last longer if I slowed for corners more, but what fun is there in that?
    (plus I'd probably be changing brakes then)
  • sfharadsfharad Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2000 1.9L TDI-N/B w/70000 miles, 5-spd. I commute ~170 miles/day and am looking at the TDI for it's gas mileage (40-50) as well as the creature comforts. Any specifics I need to watch out for ... a/c, clutch, etc. The majority of my driving is hiway (60+mph). I keep seeing references to a/c odor & oil consumption/changes .. whatsupwitdat???
    thanx,
    sfh
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