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I finally got my 2003.... SWWWEEEETTT vehicle. I keep getting WOWed by the nice features like:
*)Both mirrors adjust at same time to compensate for different-height drivers
*)If I unlock the doors or trunk with remote... then not actually open them... they re-lock themselves
*)Stereo automatically increases volume as road-noise increases.
*)windows and stereo still operate for awhile after turning off engine.... stereo can be repeatedly re-turned back on if desired
*)sunroof DOUBLES as moonroof (either side opens)
*)Still on 1st tank of fuel, OVER 300 miles at 1/2 tank
YOu can put your replies on my site http://www.outwar.com/page.php?x=837299 Thanks
Leaking gaskets are often a trivial fix (replace the gasket) Oil out of the tailpipe is indicative of a MUCH more severe problem.
Another quesiton... How much oil are you losing. (1qt per 100 miles?... 1 qt per 6000miles?)
How do you know it is oil? (Diesel fuel is an 'oil' too ;-)
Perhaps it is power-steering fluid or some other hydrolic fluid.
BTW, in the 70s and 80s I owned a diesel Rabbit and Jetta. It was really cool jumping the gas lines to go to the diesel pumps during the gas shortages of '73 and '78. People had auxiliary tanks in the spare tire well for a range of 1000 miles!
Jay
A quick and dirty break even estimate is app 50,000 miles between gas and diesel given your 15-20 mpg savings, but -1300 up front costs for the diesel. While gas and diesel prices will vary, currently at a local station has diesel at 1.83 vs unleaded regular at 1.93.
On an enthusiast's web site there is a person who has ACTUAL per mile costs of app .07 cents per mile for app 625,000 miles. That is all scheduled and unscheduled maintenance and repair, fuel, and assumes total depreciation of the vehicle. The calculations that sealed the deal for me was app PROJECTED .0581 cents/100k miles. For my .02 cents, that is serious bang for the buck. So anything under these figures is better and anything over these figures is worse. Obviously, it will be your choice.
Economics aside, you just plain use less fuel. Plus I love driving the TDI. If you're only concerned about economics a Corolla is probably cheaper to operate considering it's significantly cheaper up front. Although a Golf TDI is closer in price.
The real way I've justified it is because I normally would never buy a small 4cyl car. I commuted in V6 sedans for the most part over the years and averaged about 23-25mpg. The TDI drives nice enough and has terrific power compared to a economical 4cyl.
for years in the motor, but not the trans fluid. Anyone currently using it??
2001 VW GOLF/TDI owner
If what I understand you to be implying is that the premium on the back side or sell side will be only $300.(1300-1000=300) (at the 5 year mark.) If I re calculated correctly, the break even point will be app 12,000 miles.
While the power figures of the VW Jetta TDI SEVERELY under whelms me,(I am comparing it to a 385 hp 385 # ft of torque) I was almost TOTALLY surprised at its ability to maintain cruising speed (80-90 mph)with mileage range of 47-50 mpg!
#507
The difference between conventional and synthetic in the drive train is on the order of app 1 mpg and less operating temperature and a subliminal feeling of operating smoother. However in the 2003 Jetta, the research of the manuals indicates that synthetic 75W-90 or G50 is already oem fill. So no need to change for the difference in conventional vs synthetic. I don't think you can go wrong with either G50 oem, redline, mobil one or amsoil.
The TDI doesn't show good on the 0-60 and 1/4 mile stats, but it seems to drive very quick. I have no problem rolling with traffic at stop-lights and out on the open road it's a very quick car comparing to anything in the same ballpark and nothing compares that can even get close on the mpg. I've put a smart-box on mine which boosts power substantially (about 25%) and I've not seen a change in mpg although it'll walk away on the highway or back-roads.
2.0= 15,589
1.8= 17,080
1.9= 17,220
The numbers for break even ranges from 140.to 1631. I hardly think it makes much of a difference. If you just step up to the GLX you are talking about 800 dollar sunroof, 800 dollar leather option and perhaps 250 more for alloy wheels.
(None of these things, I really want or more importantly, really need, or more to the bottom line, what I want to pay for.) These options will buy 45,492 miles of diesel fuel @ 45 mpg @1.83gal).
So how do you like your smart box? Which one did you chose?
Very noticable performance difference in every way. Acceleration, top-end, etc. This thing accelerates up hills that even V6's feel sluggish. It feels about like a good german 6 cylinder once you're rolling. It still has some deadish/lag spots typical of a turbo, but it's not as obvious as other turbos I've driven. It will hit 100mph without any effort and still plenty of revs left but I'm running a touring tire and not interested in taking it all the way up. I've heard folks say they'll clip off to 130mph fairly easily with a VASB or chip. Fanatastic to have a vehicle that can easily and smoothly roll 80mph and still get 45-50mpg.
Diesel fuel is currently about $1.90 a gallon here in MD, while 89 octane (what I use) is $1.59.
Was there a message deleted?
Did they have to R/R the belts due to the leak or did you do the belts because of scheduled time? And oh by the way, fix the leak?
While they were in there... did they replace the waterpump too? Several folks have tried to save some $$ by NOT replacing the waterpump...only to have the old one fail soon therafter due to the stresses that the new belt puts on it.
BOTTOM LINE: These are normal "wear items" and your vehicle has given you many miles of trouble-free service.... Be happy that you can now go another 160,000K
I am curious about your mention of a "timing cover gasket"... what is this? Can I assume you are talking about the "Valve cover Gasket"? This is pretty easy to replace and takes no more than 15-20 minutes do do it.
If you are not talking about the "Valve cover gasket", please explain what was replaced so we all know what to look for.
How has your experience been with them? Sounds like I might be better off going someplace else.
TIA
*) Try another brand of diesel. (some are MUCH worse than others and might cause the symptoms you describe)
*)Run some Diesel Additive that cleans the injectors and increases cetane.
*) check for the (infamous) "plugged intake" problem (well described with color photos on the TDIclub)
*) Find somone in your area with a VAGCOM that can check the injector timing. (the VAGCOM list over on the TCIclub can point you the right direction.)
BTW, got me a VAG-COM last week. Haven't had a chance to monkey with it too much yet, but plan to reprogram door locks, check timing, MAF, etc.
Wallymart sells this stuff in 64oz containers. Math tells me that approx 5-8oz per fillup is about right.
I keep a supply of 9-oz paper cups in the trunk. This allows me to 'measure and toss' (the additive is pretty stinky and you DO NOT want to have any residue in your trunk)
http://www.powerservice.com/dieselkleen_cetaneboost.asp
Fuel filter, timing, etc. could all be contributing to hard-start/smoke.
If you wish to be replacing somthing, then consider the INJECTOR NOZZLES. Changing these may not only fix your starting problems, but selecting the right replacments will give you SIGNIFICANT power increase too.
Check out this link to the best TDI injector nozzles available--> http://www.kermatdi.com/
Personally, I would change fuel-brands and run some Diesel-additive at the highest-reccommended mixing-level for at least 2 tanks of fuel before doing any "replacing" or other major changes.
I've had two V6 Camrys go past 200,000 miles without a problem. Snore. I'll take my chances on some repairs.
BTW, on cold mornings VW recommended going through two or three glowplug cycles to get the engine cranking...with a cold start knob pulled out, too! Oh yes, they even recommended adding some gasoline in the Winter!
Jay
Longest I had to wait on glow-plugs this winter was about 10 seconds. It started every time even at -17F. When it was that cold, I did run through two glow-plug runs though because it starts with less smoke/sputtering if you run twice. Even on one run-through though, it only sputters for a few seconds. Not much difference than a gasser really. My Cherokee isn't overly excited on an extremely cold start either.
There is a great coolant heater available for the TDI and I'm going to install one for next year. Instant heat is my main goal, but I guess it starts like it's 70F when plugged in for a couple hours.
My cummins Dodge starts flawlessly in the cold as well although it generally requires a longer wait. It doesn't have glow-plugs and is even more reliable at starting at terribly cold temps. I've never plugged it in either.
http://autoweek.com/search/search_display.mv?port_code=&cat_c- - ode=coverstory&content_code=04795232&Search_Type=STD&- - Search_ID=1198607&record=35
It got me wondering how to find the "best" diesel fuel for my new Jetta. Should I go into the filthy truck stops, because they sell such a high volume the fuel will be fresh? Even tho true Low-Sulfer is not yet on the market, the article implies some is cleaner. How do I find it? Should I use an additive? Thanks for any comments.
To get real high quality diesel you've got to do some hunting. In my area, I went to the local BP distributor and talked with them. Some carry "BP Supreme" which is a low-sulphur, high cetane fuel. My TDI is extremely quiet running on this fuel, although I don't notice any performance/mpg difference. The problem is that not many stations carry this fuel, but the bulk plant can tell you where to get it. In my area, the bulk plant's unmanned fueling station is the only one carrying it withing 40 miles. I bought a 300 gallon tank and they deliver the fuel to my home. I have two diesel trucks, my TDI, and two diesel tractors so we can justify buying in bulk. I don't think I would go out of my way to find the BP Supreme, but BP #2 is also a very good fuel and low(er) sulphur as well. The problem is many BP stations don't carry BP diesel. They're only required to buy a certain amount of fuel from BP to keep the name so generally they buy cheap stuff. The bulk-plant can tell you who is buying quality fuel though.
You may not have a BP/Amoco in your area but the same theory applies to other brands. Sunoco has a high cetane diesel in certain areas (some pumps say premium but they aren't) as well as some regional brands. Just go to the bulk plants and find out what kind of diesel they're pumping.
And the best fuel you can get in North America is biodiesel. There are links to several biodiesel station lists here - http://www.biodieselnow.com/links.asp