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When the vehicle was new, at 60 mph, I would get 50 mpg. Recently, I was getting 47 mpg. In town, I was getting 42 mpg. On the Interstate, I usually set my cruise control at 78 mph. (I have never gotten a ticket at that speed) I was getting 45 to 47 mpg, depending on the terrain.
I ALWAYS use my cruise control, in the city (Houston/New Orleans etc) or on the hwy. From my experience, nearly 100% of drivers will claim they use cruise control, very few do. The next time you are going up an over-pass or a hill see how many cars slow down.
My 2003 has been in to the dealership for 2 oil changes. The charge is about $50 USD and this INCLUDES the proper synthetic oil that the TDI requires.
Do you have the ITEMIZED bill how they arrived at $116 ? It would be interesting to see how they justify this cost.
If indeed it takes 15 min that mikes out to 356 per hour. Your lawyer isnt doing the oil change is he?
-VW 500 00,
-ACEA B3 or ACEA B4,
-API Service CF4 or API Service CG4.
I purchased Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40, however the rating on this Rotella is:
API Service CH-4/SL.
Does this Rottela meet VW requirements?
Also, the headlight covers seem to be starting to get cloudy. I have 13,200 miles on this vehicle and wondered if this would be a warranty item.
Maintaining TDI does not equal high cost unless a high cost service facility is utilized.
Choose your mechanic wisely.
At 72K miles, I am CERTIAN that your snowscreen has been plugged up for at least 30K miles. Instead of breathing cool air from behind the LF headlight, your engine has been breathing warm air from under the hood thru the spring-loaded back-up portal.
Your turbocharger has been working overtime to suck the air into the snorkle too.
I have posted this here several times in the last month. (You did not do much research thru the archives....did you? ;-)
http://pics2.tdiclub.com/video/cincitdi/snowscreen.html
I would suggest that one DOES NOT scrape the plastic snowscreen with a knife as seen in this video. Instead, remove the 2 screws holding the screen itself on and use a GARDEN HOSE to clean it by 'backflushing' the opposite way the air usually flows.
Thanks
>1. spare to right front
>2. right rear to right front
>3 right front to spare
>4. left front to left rear
>5. left rear to left front
Is number 1. supposed to be spare to right rear ?
>1. spare to right front
>2. right rear to right front
>3 right front to spare
>4. left front to left rear
>5. left rear to left front
Is number 1. supposed to be spare to right rear ? "
Let me pull out my diagram.
From a codified point of view, yes. Sorry for the confusion, but strictly from a measured point of view, no; for what you are trying to do is put the one with the lowest wear (spare) and swap it with the one with the highest (right front) .
But I would argue that the codification is the easier to remember and to do. (since not many folks will caliper each tire inner middle outer
1. spare to right REAR
2. right rear to right front
3 right front to spare
4 left rear to left front
5. left front to left rear
As an aside this is closest to the OEM recommendation of front to rear, rear to front.
I can also detail the 5 tire cross rotation, but I sensed you didn't have a question on it.
Just wanted to thank you for your suggestions on the oil extractor. I actually bought a Tempo at www.boatersworld.com it works extremely well. I was able to change my oil in about 15-20 mins. and saved at least $30. I would recommend it to all of the do it yourselfers reading this.
The only 505.01 that I can find locally is at my VW dealership. It is Castrol and it is $7.45 pre ltr. I haven't heard much good about Castrol. Is this synthetic? I don't read German.
I would prefer a Mobile 1 product. I have been using Mobile 1 in my Chevy van since about 10K and it has been a fine oil.
What about Motul? I have never heard of this brand. I can find it on the internet but again I don't know if it is synthetic or not.
Any help would be Greatly appreciated.
John in KC
In the case of VW, brands are not the issue - it needs to have the 505.01 designation, and there will be more alternatives over time. Motul is well known in Europe.
Amsoil now has a 5W40 specifically for European diesels. Here's the link (I hope):
http://www.amsoil.com/products/afl.htm
Motul and the VW dealer Castrol 505.01 are the only ones available that I know of.
The Amsoil may be used in 2003 TDI and older TDI's.
This would look OK if it was stamped into the plastic engine cover, and would help all of the do-it-yourselfers PLUS the entry level techs at the local dealer or quicky lube. I am always slightly paranoid about whether they put the right stuff into my engine as I prepare to motor for another 10K Miles.
I am concerned that the struts have gone.
Is this still a warranty issue?
Do I need to replace all four wheels if I decide to upgrade to Bilstein TC?
)I have posted this question on the TDI site as well but any input would be welcome.
Thanks.
There were no *'s or disclaimers on the bottle.
Just my observations.
P.S. I bought the oil for my lawn tractor, to avoid the 25 hour change schedule.
Has anyone had a major problems with eather?
Regarding the Amsoil 10W-30
It is the wrong spec, it is recommended for VW 502.00, 505.00 NOT 505.01
It is the wrong weight. 5W-40 is the weight on the only 505.01 oils available.
It is for the wrong type of engine. 10W-30 Amsoil synthetic is for Gasoline engines, not diesel.
quote Amsoil - Heavy-duty and turbocharged diesel engines: this oil is not recommended for use in this application. -end
Check it again Pete.
In my case, the car after a year(28,000 miles)has performed flawlessly. It came (and continues to have) with absolutely NO DEFECTS. I guess VW does make a mistake once in a while and gets one completely RIGHT !
My '00 is mexican built. I'm a little over 82k miles now and really have had very few problems. Two power window motors and a MAF sensor. Still on original brake pads even. Got a couples rattles on occassion, but they come and go so it doesn't bother me much.
US/CN parts content 8%, Major source of foreign parts content, Germ 40% Mex 25% FAP, Puebla Mexico, engine: Germany transmission: Argentina
1. Is there a block heater on an 01 Jetta if so where is the plug for it?
2. Is there a primer in the event that your car runs out of gas, or do you have to bleed the lines?
1)There is no factory block heater available for the TDI. VW has a stick-on heating pad for the oil-pan, but it is a joke. Most folks get the TDI heater ( http://www.tdiheater.com/ ) which actually heats the antifreeze and circulates it thru the engine.
2) The TDI will never runout of "gas" but no, there is no primer. Manually filling the fuel-filter with diesel or fuel-additive has been used with success. Running out of fuel may damage the fuel-pumps to the tune of $2000 replacement price.
1. Dry sump specifications are 4.75 quarts or 4.5 liters with filter.
2. After sitting overnight, the oil level should be no higher than the upper bend of the oil dip stick.
3. When you follow the oil checking procedures in accordance with the service or owners manual, the oil level should be BETWEEN the hash marks.
Now the more practical answers;
4. it is almost impossible to get all the old oil out. In mine and others experiences with far more miles than I, get between 4-4.25 quarts out. So practically you still have app .5 quart due to design or workings of the turbo that will not be available for draining. So after "overnight" draining this yields the most oil that will be present in the sump. However since by that time it will be cold it will be harder to drain or evaculate. SOOO most specifications will say warm the oil and some will wait an hour after full operating temperature. So by deduction less oil is available for draining or evacuation. To me no big deal but this point does seem to be an issue.
5. As a practical matter 4 quarts (or one gal container of Delvac One, or whatever is your chosen poison) will usually put you in the sweet spot.
I like to tweak it to the upper most hash mark, but I can do that at almost any time.
Hope this helps.
Just wondering whether it worth a wait, like ungrade Engin to 2.0 with 145hp ( all I know is a larger wheelbase). Otherwise maybe I will consider the 04. Also, Heard about all the 05 will be assembled in Maxico, even the wagon, is this correct?
Thanks.
Bottom line, if you desire a Jetta Wagon or Passat TDI don't wait until calendar year 05.
A sprinter van might come close, depending on what you call a medium boat. Throw the style thing out the window.
I've seen excursions get mid 20's in fuel. Lots of room and i'm sure would pull a medium boat, regardless of your definition;)
I have a Tahoe for very similar duty. The 5.3L V8 typically gets 20mpg, sometimes better on highway trips. Towing drops it down around 14mpg. I'm sure I could have done better with an excursion as far as fuel is concerned, but was not impressed with the ride/handling/etc. on it.
The only good news I have is that I've heard that VW is bringing an extended length Touareg later this year which will have a 3rd row. I don't know how well it will haul seven adults, but it has possibilities at least. That's probably the only vehicle on my radar that I'd consider trading for the Tahoe. Probably still won't get 30mpg, but towing/hauling/mpg is a tough nut to crack.
The Touareg does come in a turbo diesel 333 hp/553 torque. But as you have indicated would only carry 7 adults if two of them were strapped to the roof rack
I know for a fact it is not available in 5 states for the 2004 model year(CA,NY,ME,MA, 4/5 as I recall)
Dodge Sprinter is only diesel that will seat seven, obtain 30 mpg and tow a boat. It will not obtain 30 mpg with seven people and tow a boat all at the same time though.
Glow plug failure on a low mileage car is unusual.