Volkswagen TDI Models

mm450exc

Can you mount a class 3 hitch on a 2006 Golf or Passat TDI?

desertfox1

A little late from the original post, but I talked to Audi USA yesterday, asking about getting an A4 with the TDi engine in USA, and she said there has been a lot of discussion about it, and to watch their web site now thru the end of the year. Also implied that they are discussing an ED program at Audi.
Both would be a welcome addition from
Audi.

nikolay

I did my first oil change on my 06 Jetta DTI at 9K. I was sure for some reason first oil change should be at 10K. I looked at manual and rushed to change oil. Could it do something horroble to the engine? What problems it can create in a future. I plan to keep it for a long time.
Thanks for help!

jettaguy74

I have a 2001 VW Beetle TDI with over 100k miles on it. I live in the hot Southern US where temps are regularly over 90 degrees F this time of year. A few months ago my TDI engine began losing power intermittently and my VW dealer has been unable to fix the problem. It seems to happen more frequently when its very hot outside and even more often when the A/C is on. After the engine is warmed up and driving in stop and go traffic, then engine sometimes suddenly loses so much power I have to downshift into first gear to even make it up a hill. When driving on the interstate it doesn't seem to happen as often. Also when I return home and put the car in the garage, the car sounds and smells hot, with pinging sounds - the engine bay seems very hot. But the overheating dash warning light never comes on and the car appears to have plenty of coolant. Two weeks ago the dealer replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but the problem is still occuring. I've also had the fuel filter replaced to no avail. Anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Since the problem is intermittent it's difficult to show the tech at the dealership how bad the problem is sometimes. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

dieselgirl

Well, I did NOT stop the search for the elusive answer to the MPG gimmick - how to increase the mileage. I found the trick - or so I think... What I found was a chip that can be added - currently sold in Europe - and it probably KILLS your warranty, etc. - but here is the link if anyone has the inclination to improve your diesel VW performance - torque, MPG and speed:

http://www.bluechiptuning.co.uk/products/VW_Jetta_1_9_tdi_2005_105_BHP-5002-59.h- tml

elias

dealer had a 3rd try at fixing our leaky beetle TDI - rear passenger floor kept getting soaked. they removed all the rugs, ran it through car wash, and found a unsealed seam in floor near drivers door. maybe it's really fixed this time!

kneisl1

Is it possible to buy a diesel VW here in Nj anymore? Thanks!

docdahl

happened to me ask about an O2 sensor that needs replaced
fixed my problem with my tdi beetle

tchoula

I had the exact same problem under the exact same circumstances on my 98 TDI Beetle. It felt as though the turbo just disappeared, a restart would often fix it momentarily. It was the N75 or turbo regulation solenoid. Check dieselgeek.com for one. Totally solved the power problem. Basically, I ended up cleaning the EGR valve and intake manifold (they were nearly 50% blocked), replacing the N75 and also the Mass Airflow Sensor. The latter two items are very easy to do yourself. Cleaning the intake, in my opnion a TOTAL pain.

tchoula

Problems will depened on maintenance history. Absolutely expect the intake and EGR need to be cleaned. Timing belt and waterpump should have already been done. You could easily spend $2k on maintenance if it has not already been taken care of.

dieselgirl

In 2007 (parts of the country already have the new fuel) there will be a new diesel fuel that has better sulfur emissions. There are supposed to be a bunch of new 2008 diesels slated to arrive. Has anyone heard about that? I've already seen Dymler Benz ads featuring TWO new diesel jeeps/suvs - I'm not sure if they are for sale yet? And of course, CA - the state that needs this the MOST will probably be the LAST place to get them. Anyway, if anyone has any inside info about new VW Diesels coming - please post. Thanks!

ruking1

Too funny! For us that actually now use diesel fuel, it will be designer type custom fuels at consumer prices! Hopefully at the consumer level the transition will be absolutely seamless. The added benefit is less clogging of the now older style EGR systems. What is not to like!? By the way, the CA PPM of the current #2 diesel is from 500 ppm to 140ppm. USLD fuel is rated at 15 ppm.

jasmith52

The new fuel isn't to prevent clogging EGRs. The new fuels main benefit is that diesel emissions will be much much less.

It is my understanding that with the new fuel that diesels will then be California and Northeast states emissions smog compliant.

ruking1

Well for sure, if you read my post THAT claim was NOT made. The real reason why there is some anecdotal clogging of EGR's is because the systems wer NOT designed for the "junk" fuel commonly available in the USA. Again there is anecdotal evidence that the clogging is more severe in other than CA states.

Right and the new standard is USLD or 15 ppm sulfur.

alfmz3

Nowadays they are made in Mexico, but not sold in USA (old Jetta)
http://www.vw.com.mx/CWE/estudio/EST001HOME/0%2C12440%2CiM%25253D3%2C00.html

rickeyr16

I own a 2001 Jetta TDI. I seem to have the same issues that you have. Your issue, if like mine, would be clogged fuel injectors. The cheap fix on this is Lucas Fuel Treatment (http://www.lucasoil.com/). I put three ounces of the fuel treatment in everytime I fill up and I no longer have a loss a power. You will need to put the fuel treatment in and then have the fuel filter changed. Good Luck!!!

mmery

Hi there: I'm considering buying a 2000 Golf TDI, only 60k milage, but wonder about the year. are there any signficant changes between 2000 tdi and, say, 2003? thanks

mmery@horizoncable.com

bpeebles

nothing significant.... mostly little tweaks.

examples of changes from 2000 -to- 2003

*)Cupholders in different place
*)window regulators upgraded (was recalled on the 2000)
*)Different body colors available in different years
*)Headlight design is different

I am sure thre are other little tweaks that could be added to this list. In general... both 2000 and 2003 are "MarkIV" Volkswagens thus have no significant differences.

sm3323

Hello,

I have fault #P0234 on my 2001 VW Golf 1.9 TDI. The only thing the fault book mentions is that it is regarding "Turbo Charger overboost condition control limit exceeded."
If there is anyone that can direct me to the proper place or has an idea about what I should do to fix the problem please let me know.

Also, does anyone know of another service manual besides the Bentley Service manual to trouble shoot fault codes.

Thank you!

bpeebles

fault #P0234 is often caused by one of the following things.

1) N75 valve needs to be replaced
2) Intake manifold clogged

The "Bently" manual is the de-facto standard for VW. I am not aware of any other that contains the same level of detail.

You really dont need a "book" to troubleshoot. As long as you have working knowledge of how it works and why it would "throw" a code... you can use your own troubleshooting skills to isolate a problem and determine an approprate approach to repair.

For example... in the case of your fault #P0234. If there is an "overboost" condition detected, then the computer has sensed that it is not able to control the boost pressure to target. There is only a limited number of reasons this could occour. (I have mentioned the 2 most likely above)

jamesw4

2005 wagon tdi remote inoperative,How do you replace the battery ??

Any fix yet on the surge at steady speeds,40mph or 60 mph

bpeebles

Here is link to KEYFOB BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

sm3323

thanks for your help....replaced the n75 valve & cleaned the intake manifold and the car runs beautiful.....you guys are great!

robtdi

I have a 2005 1/2 Jetta TDI. The owners manual says to drain the water separator on the fuel filter. My fuel filter does not have a drain plug on the bottom of it. I have changed the fuel filter once at 15K,draining it completely. Is there a way to drain the water separator on this model?

sebring95

I've heard from others (my neighbor) that have an '05.5 that doesn't have the drain valve as well. So you probably don't have it. That's the good news. The other good news is, there's not usually any water in there on the ones that do have the valve. I stopped checking mine and just swap filters every 20k miles.

robtdi

thanks for the info

glynn77

I went to check my oil yesterday and noticed the orange tube was cracked in half. I called the dealer and they informed me it would cost about $60 to fix. Seeing as the part is like 8 bucks I was wondering if I could just do it myself. If anyone has any advice or experience in this area your help would be SUPER appreciated. Thanks.

bpeebles

I have never replaced the orange tube before. In fact, with many VWs in the family, I have never seen the orange tube crack. In any case, you need to replace it to keep dirt out of the crankcase.

Did you ask them why they quoted $60 to replace it? That is over 2 hours on the timeclock. (including the $8 part)

I wonder if your dealership is charging "by the book" reguardless of how long it really takes to perform the repair. (There is a "book" that has estamates for repair times and some shops use that as the bible to charge customers)

My VW dealership DOES NOT charge "by the book" and instead charges "by the clock". (actual time spent)

cosmo

I replaced one on my 1996 Passat after it broke in sub-zero weather. It was simply a snap-on procedure. My 2004 Passat and 2006 Jetta TDI's look like the same design. I did have to lube the tube to get it on.

glynn77

They said the part would be $15 and labor would be $45. I can only assume they would be charging me for 30 mins even though it can't possibly take longer than 5 mins to repair. I've thought maybe I should take it to a regular oil change place (i.e. Jiffy Lube or something) but most of these places don't seem to have parts for TDI's anyway.

joedollar

If anyone has had the following problems, please advise of possible remedies:
1) Intermittent low beam headlight malfunction. Bulbs are new. Right light will conk out, then come back on. Left light will conk out, come back on, BOTH lights out, then come back on. Can happen every 10 minutes or 2 weeks.
2) Windshield wiper won't shut off. Will run for an entire day of driving. Any attempt to stop them will not work (short of pulling a fuse). Then, they'll stop....for 2 days and NOT turn on.
3) Rear window defrost. Worked fine. Then, the "on" button "feels" different. Doesn't make the same "click" when depressed. Rear defrost.....dead.
4) Not so much electrical, but EXTREMELY BIZARRE. Sometimes (3/4 of the time) when coming to a stop, the motor will shudder as if 1 cylinder is not firing. The motor will do this no other time. Only when braking and only when just coming to a stop. Antilock brake throb? I don't have a clue.

In closing. Mechanically, unbeatable little car. Electrically, the worst lemon I've ever had.

alltorque

If you want to see what might be coming your way just Google the major brand's UK sites : HONDA UK, VW UK, AUDI UK etc. You can then look at the current range of diesels offered here in Europe that could well cross the pond once you have good supplies of ULSD etc. The VAG, (VW/Audi/Skoda/SEAT), 2.0 Tdi is a gem, particularly when mated to the 6-spd DSG auto/tiptronic 'box. In standard trim it's 140bhp but is also offered at 170bhp. The Honda 2.2 CDTi is another fine engine..............we get it in the new Civic and the Accord. The new Civic is very different to the current USA car bearing the same name, (I believe), and worth a look by itself.

mgutai

I've owned a 02 Golf TDI for about 3 years, putting on just over 100k miles in that time, and have a question about Oil Filter O-rings.

I've changed the Oil (Mobil 1 Delvac synthetic) and Oil filter (whatever AdvanceAuto Parts carries) every 10k miles. With the Oil Filter comes 2 rubber o-rings. One small about the size of a finger, and one the size of the Oil Filter. Questions:

(1) What is the small O-ring for? I've always just thrown this away. I thought it might be for the drain plug, but the copper washer is for that, right?

(2) Whenever I try and use the larger O-ring on my Oil Filter, if I thread the filter back on 'hand-tightened' (cap of filter says 18 or 25?), the rubber O-ring gets smashed and eventually pops up past the threads and leaves a small space for oil to come out of the filter. So I usually just throw that o-ring away too and tighten it further. But it seems even though I tighten the filter w/o the O-ring, oil still leaks out (oil crud on outside of oil filter area and on engine area below that - dipstick level showed low oil). Does anyone use this o-ring for the oil filter?

Help.
Thanks in advance.

ruking1

Both O rings go on the oil filter cap plastic shaft in EXACT positions. I do not remember off the top of my head which goes where as I just take the old ones off and then replace them EXACTLY. I haven't done that in over 22,000 miles. While waiting for the technical info on this thread, you may want to do a search on www.TDI.CLUB on the maintenance portions or even see if you can tell off the oil filter change procedure video.

bpeebles

If you have not been installing the 2 Orings properly, then your oil has been flowing AROUND the oil-filter. (NO FILTERING)

Watch this video several times to see how to do an oil-change on the TDI engine:
http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/oilextraction.html

HINT: Both of the Orings goes in a special grove. The large Oring is not sealed by the TIGHTNESS the cap... it is sealed by the interference-fit between the sides of the cap and oil-filter-housing. That is why the torque on the cap only needs to be tight enough to keep it from coming loose. In-fact, you could damage the plastic cap by over-torquing.

reid12

i do alot of my own mechanical work. have owned 4 older beetles. first new one especially tdi. would like to acquire a shop manual to be able to understand the car a little better. any help. tried a number of sources and no luck. tks

cosmo

Here's a good one.

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=VNB6

mgutai

ruking1 and bpeebles: Thanks for the replies. I have read many of your previous posts on various topics related to the TDI, and they have been very beneficial. Your shared experiences and knowledge are much appreciated.

I had previously checked tdiclub for specifics on the o-rings, but found nothing (though much of the info there has also been very beneficial, like the snow screen and intake cleaning). Based on the video and your descriptions, I'll change my filter this weekend with new o-rings and go from there. Hopefully then, after 100k+ miles, my oil will start being filtered!

Thanks again.

ruking1

I am glad it was helpful. So in that spirit, I pass it on. Actually it is in appreciation of the fact that folks like bpeebles post as they do.

I checked the Bentley's and indeed they do not make a distinction (in print) on the color (functional) difference. So the next time I have it apart, I will post. But the real key is BOTH o rings are installed.

bpeebles

(ruking) I know this current discussion is about the OIL filter.... but when you mention the 2 Orings of different colors... are you perhaps refering to the FUEL filter thermostatic (T-fitting)? That has 2 Orings which appear to be the same... but -as you mention- they are actually slightly diffreent. Not only are they different colors... I beleive they are slightly different size too.

ruking1

Indeed for SURE that is true for the FUEL filter. Again on that one, I do the same drill. I R/R EXACTLY.

Looking at my saved old ones, MY actual oil filter OLD small o ring/s for the plastic oil cap shaft are indeed all black and appear to be the same size. However, I did buy the (MANN evotop HU 726/2x oil filters 10 each) all at once in 2003 (4 years now). So I took that to mean (from mqutai's post) that he had different colors and/or sizes or both. The BIG one obviously goes around the cap. The MUCH small one around the plastic shaft (exact place escapes me).

Thanks for the heads up. A number of possibilities now surface. 1. He was given/used the incorrect o ring/s 2. His o ring/s are correct for his year 3. MINE could be wrong

mgutai

Just replaced the Oil Filter with 2 new O-Rings. Upon closer inspection (knowing what/where to look after seeing the video), it turns out the 2 very-old O-Rings were STILL IN PLACE. Both looked very compressed, the larger one more so than the smaller one. Guess I was too dumb to notice these were there when I did my first oil change 100k miles ago, not thinking maybe the new rings in the box were for a purpose. Anyway, I was able to remove both old O-rings and replace with the new ones. Upon screwing it back on, it was CONSIDERABLY tighter. Guess it makes sense as to why I was experiencing a very slow oil leak. Thanks again for your help ruking1 and bpeebles.

ruking1

Good I was almost going to schedule the oil change a tad earlier just to see!! Glad it worked out.

bpeebles

Dosent that oil-change-video make things much clearer?

Now - Mebbie you can get the courage to do a fuel-filter-change too 8-)

Here is the link to fuel-filter-change ==>http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/fuelfilter.html

At the very least you should STRONGLY consider cleaning your snowscreen ==> http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/snowscreen.html
I usually clean my snowscreen annually and it is at least 1/2 plugged at that rate... I can only cringe what a snowscreen would look like after 100,000 miles.

mgutai

Yes. The last 2 oil changes I've done with an extractor, but the video gave me a few more good ideas (clamping the hose so it doesn't move, sucking out oil from the oil filter area, how far down to place hose).

I've the fuel-filter change, and it's not too bad. Remembered to re-fill with new fuel so as to not run down the alternator. Also removed the snowscreen per recommendation on tdiclub, and do more frequent air filter changes. I recently bought an oiled filter instead of the paper filter (to save $ in the long run); but after reading some posts about how the MAF sensor can get hosed due to the oil, have gone back to paper air filters.

ruking1

Yes I measured it once, I forget off the top of my head, I marked if off on my hose, but I think it is like 29 in to 32 in.

mgutai

The longevity of the VW TDI has always impressed me. I'm curious to know who in the group has high mileage TDI's, and what their 'vital stats' are. For the purpose of this request, we'll say high mileage is 100k miles or more. If you'd like, please respond with the following information:

(1) Year
(2) Car (Jetta, Golf, Beetle, Passat)
(3) Transmission (Auto or Manual)
(4) Mileage (specify miles or kilometers)
(5) MPG range (best, worst, avg, type of driving)
(6) Any repairs (outside of normal maintenance) done that you consider to be 'major'

I'll go first:

2002
Golf
Manual
121,000 miles
46 mpg worst, 53 best, 48 avg in 95% highway miles @ 75 mph
No major repairs

Thanks in advance to all who share.

sebring95

2000
Jetta
Manual
145,000 miles
47mpg avg, mainly highway, 80ish mph
No major repairs, have some power mods (chip, injectors) since around 50k miles.

I'm shooting from the hip on most recent numbers. My daughter has been driving it instead of her Celica GTS. She likes the Jetta better and mpg is a cherry on top. So if anyone wants a gas guzzling Celica, I gotta nice one collecting dust in the garage.....ha!

alltorque

2004
Skoda Fabia vRS (1.9TDi/130bhp) pocket rocket.
6-spd Manual
37,000 miles (sorry, it's still running in)
Worst = no idea, Best 62, avg circa 51 @ 75+mph highway. (Imperial Gallon)
No major repairs. (Had a fractured windscreen wiper arm, replaced under warranty).

O.K., ruking1, I give in - what is a snowscreen ?

ruking1

..."O.K., ruking1, I give in - what is a snow screen ?"...

It is located high to the RIGHT, as you look at your engine bay in the LEFT drivers side fender. If your layout is the same or similar to mine, it is a app 3 in diameter plastic "pipe" (funny angled) that holds a screen inside that covers one end of the pipe. It prescreens the air and leads to the intake manifold to the bottom of the air box (dirty side of the air filter). It is held to the fender by a 10mm nut. The screen is designed to be a prophylactic for snow, in case the car hits or runs through a snow drift to prevent ingestion of snow, causing hydro lock.

In some models, I have seen the angled pipe but with no snow screen. On those models the air filter has a (seems to be a synthetic type material) rough filter (looks like a sponge)before the paper air filter, again to prevent snow from hitting the intake causing hydro lock.