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I am no means a mechanic and i plan to take the car to VW since they presumably have the equipment to diagnose this. I was wondering if the oil residue in the hose could be related to crankcase ventilation and whether the white smoke could be a defective oil cooler or other factors than turbo seals. Do you have experience with non-diesels?
The oil was about three quarters of a quart overfilled which may have something to do with it; I intend to get another oil change.
It should not be so serious as the car has been running perfectly since then. The VW tech believes its an oxygen sensor malfunctioning and a too rich fuel mixture. Apparently a little oil in the turbo intake is normal for these cars.
I drained some of the oil and it was not that much overfilled - maybe one third quart.
The only reason I'm on this forum is to get educated and get information from someone more qualified than I am, rather than to be told about VW dealers. Half the time they're undertrained and are giving you the wrong diagnosis and you're spending $$$ on the wrong part.
When it reaches around 2500rpm the accleration becomes shaky and the engines seems to judder. The what was once smooth and quick acceleration has deserted me....and I dont know why...any suggestions?
A recent diagnostic test suggested a problem with cyliner 1...could this then result in the problem that I am experiencing?
Beetle
Manual
102,000 miles
Worst - under 40 while still learning how to drive her
Best - 56
Average - 43 - 45 most trips now under 10 miles
Replaced glow plugs twice and harness once. Second time was dealers fault for not getting the harness hooked up right.
Fuel: Bio-Diesel (Winter blend 60/40) with 100 mL of Diesel Kleen added at fill-up.
Recent Weather: Really cold - around zero in New England.
Lately, the car starts a bit harder then normal. There is a surge of black smoke on start-up. If I don't give it some fuel and let it idle a bit, when I put it in gear it will stall. First few times I accelerate, it hesitates longer then normal, spews black smoke and slowly gets going. I have tried to blow it out on the highway at 85 or so, but still seems to be acting up. Suggestions or thoughts are welcome.
(especially if you park it outside).
hopefully you swap the fuel filter way more than every 20k, given the biodiesel...
Also, I agree that you should have a KNOWN TDI guru do the work. I have read wayyyy too many horror-stories of improperly done TB changes leading to serious engine damage a couple thousand miles later. Apparently, the tensionor is very easy to install wrong... but it may work for awhile.
So I gather the key sensor pickup is around the keylock cylinder. Is that correct?
I have about 115K mi on the vehicle.
Thanks for any guidance or help. The service manual doesn't seem to address the situation very well.
Pete
(2) Jetta TDI
(3) Transmission Manual)
(4) Mileage 115000mi
(5) MPG range (best 49, worst 44, avg 47, town and highway)
(6) Any repairs (VW recalls and at 114Kmi the timing belt, water pump, idler/tensioners & accessory belt - water pump leak prompted repair timing belt was still ok, accessory belt some drness & cracking - all were original; at 80kmi the airmass sensor).
Pete
"As someone who basically gets paid to hotwire cars for a living (I am a 12V electronics installer by trade.... remote starters), I can tell you a few things:
1) Main issue is breakage on the actual antenna wires leading from the reader to the cluster. They are very small...... 28ga or so. In the cold, moving the column a lot will do this.
2) The RFID pellet on the VW keys lives along the outer edge of the key.... for those of you with valet keys, the two halves of the head pop apart. You will see a torpedo shaped glass pellet. This is the RFID pellet. It is in roughly the same location on the switchblade key. It is not accessable without doing major damage to the key (irreparable) on the switchblade key. The antenna around the chamber in the column reads using it's outer edge, like 1/16" or so, and towards the interior of the car. Simply gluing the pellet to the back of the ignition switch, or even the antenna itself will not read. It is an extremely low power, narrow window for the reader (micro watts)....... and the pellet pretty much needs to be within 1/8" of the antennas fronte (visible) side.
3) On immobilizer 3 cars, a key that is not seen by the cluster in around 4 months of daily start cycles, will be dropped by the system. It assumes lost or stolen, and will remove that key from the memory for system integrety's sake.
4) The car only reads the key until the end of the crank cycle. It then could care less if a valid key is in the ignition.
5) It doesen't really care about seeing 2 keys at once... as long as both are valid keys for the car. Due to the transmission power of the system.... you would need to have both keys within 1/4" of the antenna.... not an easy feat with the size of these keys.
Dropping your key a lot will eventually crack the glass pellet... this will let moisture accumulate inside the tube, and will eventually render the circutry inside the tube inoperable (ues... there is a weee little board in that tube.....)
VW does use one of the more secure systems...... GM on the other hand uses the least secure system (PK3). PK3 can be gotten around without any programmed keys for the vehicle...... all you need is a PK3 key that is cut for the ignition. I know the procedure, but I am not sharing it.... for obvious reasons :-)
Ford, Dodge, Mits, all need 2 valid keys to program additional keys (Fords will hold up to 10 valid keys, BTW.... then it will bump #1 when #11 is leasnrd, and so forth) Dodge, and Mits are both using a Phillips system that also "marries" the programmed key to the vehicle. Once a key is programmed to a Dodge product, it can not be programmed to any other car, no matter what (unique to the Phillips system) VW, BMW, and Mercedes all require the use of an SKC for additional key programming.... Toyota, Nissan, Hyundai, and Kia require the scan tool be used to get into programming mode (well... Toyotas you can do with a combination of gas pedal and brake presses... the scan tool is just easier). Mazda uses Ford keys. (and there are now 7 different Ford key based Immobilizer types, BTW. And 5 of them look pretty much the same key wise..... an interesting challenge to say the least)"
Manual
130,000 miles
42 mpg worst, 52 mpg best. Avg depends on weather, lower in winter
No major repairs.
Note: I always change the oil and filter and drain the water separator at 3,000 miles. I use the Castrol 5W50 full synthetic. Love this car. I laugh at all those hybrids out there! Timing belt change at or before 100,000 miles is a sound investment.
Given all that, plus the price of diesel being higher than premium gasoline, leads me to believe that I haven't saved a thing in operating costs over a small car with a gasoline engine. Plus, I it is a noisy, slow, smelly ride. To each his or her own, I guess.
The newer diesels coming out are quite powerful and even quiet. This one is neither.
I've been driving diesels since the 80's, whether they were Mercedes 300sd turbos, or Ford PowerStrokes. The technology is proven, powerful, and money saving. You also feel a sense of kinship with the truckers on the road and the railroad engineers moving cargo around the country.
I found the ideal of saving over a gasser is if you compare it against like models VW 1.8T, the answer is very clear. If you compare it against a lesser Honda gasser for example you might indeed be correct. When I did the math for my 2003 Jetta (apples to oranges) the math indicated over 20k miles per year made sense. Under... get a Honda gasser. When you compare it against a 1.8T. B/E was almost off the showroom floor. Sorry to hear about your bad experiences with your TDI.
There is just something about a 90 mph climb up a long grade in a 90 hp/155 #ft of torque "under hp'd vehicle" that is .....indescribable.
I've been considering a new one just because mine is still quite valuable and there are some new '06 models still available for invoice pricing. I was reading a review on some car site yesterday that said the high speed acceleration was sluggish. Huh?? The only thing I can think is that they were trying to redline the thing (like fools). With a few small mods, these cars can perform as good or better than any gasser that even gets remotely close mpg.
As for the chap above that spend $1,000 on a clogged intake...the rule is: avoid dealers at all cost. They generally don't have a clue what they're doing and charge a pretty penny for it. Find a local mechanic, DIY, or buy some other brand.
Yes, I didn't mention the EGR modification and the rev to 2,500,3,000 rpm and don't lug the turbo routine, for it would probably seem like cleaning after spilled milk. But yes, a dealer who does TDI's WELL is indeed rare. Dealer service is enough to scare all but diehard TDI fans away. If they are indeed good you almost have to hear it from EVERY TDI customer who has used that particular dealer! Diehard fans use independents and stuff like www.tdiclub networks.
But I guess a TDI wasn't the best choice for me, given all the givens. Anyway, postscript, it was at the dealer today. After the repair, it blew up on the road test. The turbo apparently had been sucking oil. Cleaning out the intake allowed more in, the engine took off and put a rod through the side. Fortunately (I guess), it is still in the 5 year powertrain warranty, so they will install a new engine and new turbo. Now I will need to pay more attention (i.e., become familiar with the TDI club site, watch the breakin period, find a mechanic who knows these TDIs).
Oil changes are far more expensive
--Actually, oilchanges are only a few dollars more that equivalant gasoline engine and only has to be done HALF as often. (thus costs less per mile driven)
The timing belt is but one thing that must be done that isn't cheap.
-- AGAIN, an equivalant gasoline engine has the IDENTICAL timing belt requirment... this is not a Diesel-only thing.
the price of diesel being higher than premium gasoline
-- I have seen diesel prices above and below gasoline prices... this is IRREVALANT. The cost-per-mile is what you need to look at. Since TDI is over 30% more efficent... the fuel cost would have to be 30% more expensive JUST TO BREAK EVEN!
Soooo - in the end, your only argument is the intake plugging up. This is directly attrribited to the federal government mandating a cooled EGR. My 2003 TDI has never plugged up in over 60,000 miles... But I did my research and KNEW this is a possible problem and took evasive action.
My Ford Ranger for example went 175,000 miles and got to be nine years old with only routine maintenance stuff before I sold it (for $3700) to someone who is still driving it. To my knowledge it has never required a timing belt change. I've also had cars that timing belts were something done as necessary (like a broken water pump), because the belt or chain could be inspected and/or it wasn't an interference engine (so if the timing belt went, it would just stop, not break the engine).
I was looking at cost per mile. On my Mazda, oil changes cost 19.95 plus tax. I do them about as often on either one (5,000 to 7,000 miles). I've never gotten an oil change on the TDI for less than $60, and that's when I didn't insist on full synthetic oil. Diesel fuel here in WI may not be 30% more expensive, but it consistently is 30 cents more per gallon. The diesel was more expensive to begin with. So for me, it hasn't worked out as well as it has for you.
NEW YORK — U.S. fans of the Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen now have a clue about when the vehicle is bound for their local dealership. The automaker on Wednesday set the timetable for the U.S. launch of the car, starting in August with the 2.5-liter Jetta SportWagen that uses the 170-horsepower 2.5-liter five-cylinder engine.
The launch of the base model will be followed with the 2.0T Jetta SportWagen that gets the 200-hp four-cylinder engine in the fall. In early 2008, the Jetta SportWagen will be available with a 2.0-liter clean diesel engine.
Prices have not yet been announced.
The SportWagen's standard features include air-conditioning, anti-theft vehicle alarm, cruise control, CD player, traction control, antilock brakes and eight-way adjustable front seats. A panoramic sunroof is optional.
What this means to you: Now you have a schedule in hand for when the sprightly SportWagen can end up in your driveway.
Whil you have access to the connector at the top of the tank. Be prepared to actually REMOVE the sending unit....the problem may be INSIDE the tank.
Annette
We took our 04 Jetta TDI in for the 60,000 mile tune up at a new shop. About two weeks after that the coolant level light came on. I assumed they forgot to top it off but it comes on every week or so. I have checked for leaks but it is not leaking anything onto the ground. Where is it migrating to????
And what is this G12 coolant?
On your 2004, I would suspect that you have the ol' internal leak in your EGR-cooler. With this problem, the antifreeze will go down... with no apparent leakage. I beleive VW has been replacing the faulty EGR-coolers at their expense.
To answer your question about what is G12 coolant... the designation "G12" is the VW specification for the antifreeze. Never put in ANYTHING but antifreeze that says "G12" on the bottle.
Here is some info about the various VW antifreeze types.
I get great mileage, and I expect to drive the car until she hits 250,000+ miles. It's a good car to have when you plan to drive it for 15 years.
I'm in the same boat you are. I cannot afford all these repairs-but I am dreading another car note. The only thing that I can think of (for me) is to drive it until I can afford another down payment and get a normal gas engine.
Unfortunately, I will not own another TDI-the maintenance and costly repairs have dimmed my passion for "German Engineering"
Good Luck!
I agree with you. The TDI engine actually has lower maintenance costs than the same VW vehicles wih the gasoline engine.
For examples,
*)Engine-oil is changed more frequently in the gasser.
*)The gasser has sparkplugs and wires to contend with.
*)Fuel costs are higher with gasser.
Virtually all engines have a timingbelt to be replaced. The parts/labor cost is identical reguardless of fuel-type.
In fact, I cannot think of any scheduled mantaince on the TDI engine which costs more than the gasser over the lifetime of the vehicle.
...and being able to drive over 800 miles per tank of fuel with my TDI is priceless!
I used to be pretty dead set against timing belts (fiber) in 4 cylinder engines. So much so, for a lot of years refused to get a 4 banger with timing belts. However with the TDI, it presented an advantage of 44-62 mpg, but had the obvious disadvantage of a timing belt change at 100,000 miles. To boot there is a lot of evidence in the field that a lot of dealers really do not do this procedure well and charge a lot of money. However the design longevity of the motor is 25,000 hours at 80% loading. At 40-50 mph average this translates to 1,000,000 miles. So if one wishes to keep the car (engine) longer than 175,000 to 225,000 miles you have a 100,000 mile renewal interval and at a known cost.
I would love to know what the life expectancy is for my 2007 Sentra.
I have already installed a dual by-pass filter system (Amsoil) that I had on my previous car. I am using synthetic oil and after a few OCI's and oil analysis the plan is to change oil every 10 to 15k miles.
It all depends on the next 2 or 3 oil analysis results.
I want to keep this particular car for at least 300k, maybe more if it holds up well without mayor repairs. The big question is the durability of the CVT.
I apologize for posting this here. I know, next time it will be on the Sentra forum.
As you know, just the physical act of increasing your systems' oil capacity lets you increase the OCI!! An easy example is a 4 qt sump with a 1 quart increase (due to things like adding the filter system) for a 25% increase or now (in the case of the recommended TDI 10,000 OCI) 12,500 miles. So when you combine it with the increased by pass filter added to the stock filtering, barring any anomolies, you can be good to go for a much longer time and many more miles. (verified by UOA's for the curious or truly paranoid)