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1: Door switches of both sides(Driver,s and Passenger side) for windows and door locks quits frequently. I paid heavy cost of $350 to replace them.
2. Now A/C quits on me suddenly. It was working alright and stopped working suddenly. I showed to mechanic who is asking for More than $1000 for replacement of compressor, filter/dryer and charging the system.
3. I have noticed some Oil deposits in Antifreeze overflow bottle. Also antifreeze need refilling frequently as I see dripping of some kind of liquid from engine to floor under the engine. I checked with Couple of Mechanics who advised me to report to GM or one of their dealers for fixing up of this manufacturing defect free of charge. Is it correct view of mechanics.
I need to know the procedure for replacement of Compressor and dryer as per workshop service manual.
I will appreciate for the help.
Thanks and best regards
Idler arms run $40.00 for Mug. You will need 2. Those factory ones are junk. I can say after problems with my 97 and 2000 GM's They will be the last ones I'll ever purchase.
Another interesting thing, in this web site there are a lot of complaints about driver's window not working, mine also had not been working right (some times not going down some times not going up). GM here too said bad switch $79.00. Well I have not had any more problems with that either since this fix to fuel pump connector...related??? I think so because I didn't do anything to window switch, even though this circuit shouldn't have anything to do w/ windows it seems to have fixed it as well. So total cost of repair 3.99 tube of silicone and 2 rivets... sure beats the $289 + $79 I was getting ready to shell out for nothing. Best luck to all, van is running great again no more complaints.
Also, my ABS light comes on periodically? How do you fix this?
I have also, very slowly over time, been losing coolant. I have had it checked, and there is no coolant in the oil, as the intake gasket is a common problem with these engines as I have read. I noticed some coolant recently around the thermostate housing. Possibly a leak there?
Other then these issue's, with 60K miles, I have not had to put a dime into this vehicle and have been very pleased......knock on wood!
Thanks for any info.
the entire cluster will fall off then bounse back up
--speedometer ==all gauges drop but no power loss on van--
this is only a year old van with 14000 miles
--dealership says they cant find problem--
says gm doesnt know what to do
has anyone ever heard of this--
need help with this one
As far as the coolant problem. I too had experienced the coolant level dropping slightly over a month or so. I re-filled it several times only to find it dropping again. After pressure testing the system I found a slow leak at the base of the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. I replaced the gasket myself, which was not a fun job but a learning experience. I feel that the leak was mainly from the ATV sealant at the base of the manifold and that the gaskets themselves were okay. I spent about $100.00 for the parts to do the job which I also decided to replace the spark plugs and o-ring on the distributor cap while in there doing the job.
What started it all was; I got into my van at night time, started the van and turned on my headlights, well when I turned on the head lights the engine acted like it wanted to cut off by bogging down, but it did not cut off, it just hesitated and continued to idle like normal. I then turned off the engine, and tried to restart the van, but the engine just turned over and over and never cranked back up. Does anyone have a clue to what the problem might be? Thanks in advance for your replies.
Next problem...My 96 astro van will overheat when I turn on the AC. It takes around 30 minutes with the AC on then overheates. What would cause this???
Thank you for all your help.
2) Broken Thermostat
3) Bad fan clutch.
The key to unlocking this riddle is; does it overheat more idling in traffic, or at highway speeds?
If the first, fan clutch or thermostat should be looked at first.
If the second, it's the radiator.
Would this hold true if it does not overheat with AC off but only with AC on?
I would think if it is the radiator, it would overheat regardless of AC on or off.
I had the radiator pressure tested and mechanic said it was fine, no leaks. They replaced the thermo. but still overheats with AC on only. It is fine when the AC is off. Drives me crazy..."> o_O
You didn't answer me on the highway or idling question - but if you replaced the thermostat already, have the radiator rodded out. It's not expensive to do, especially if you take it out yourself. You will not overheat anymore for a long time.
Robbed out? Sorry, I don't know what that means...flushed?
Thanks for your help nvbanker.
is pressed. The stop light over the doors works when the brake is pressed . The lights on the sides are dual light that are also the turn signal. The turn signal
part of the light works fine. Why does the one light work and the others don't.
I have a 2002 chevy venture and it start to get a problem with
the cooling fan.The fan don`t work properly because when
they start to run to keep cool the engine they don`t,come to start
when the temperature is over the half way and between the H way.
I change the coolan & fan switch sensor, but that do not resolve
the problem.I need to know what can I do for fix it,because it is
not normal.I appreciate someone who help me.
I had that problem with my 97. Turn the key sometimes and nothing happens not even a click. Wait a minute and try again and it would start. Turns out the starter was going bad so I had it replaced last year and no problems since. I also ended up replacing the battery and alternator around the same time. The only other thing you could check is the ground wire and the wire that goes to the starter from the battery. Sometimes that wire can rub on another part and wear the coating off. Good luck, the reman starters are $200 plus.
I have never had window problems (knock on wood) in the 2.5 years I have owned the van. I do have a strange knocking sound coming from under the front seats. It happens twice as the van is warming up from a could start then it never happens again until the next day on a cold start. It happens while driving down the road. I don't know what it is but nothing has happen yet from it. I rode in a 99 and it made the same noise. The problems I have had are 1-2 hard shift which required a complete trans rebuild(don't buy the gm replacement it will have the same defective parts in it as the original). I had coolent leaking out of the lower intake manifold gaskets so I replaced them. The last problem was the a/c not coming out of the vents which turned out to be a bad vacuum line under the hood. I still can't get cold air to blow out the rear a/c which is an aftermarket unit(van is a conversion). At 96,000 it is still running good even while pulling a 4000# camper at 80 mph. Just got back from a 5200 mile vacation and averaged 18-19 mpg driving 80 without the camper.
Can anyone tell me where the low pressure service port is on the AC system of the 99 Chevy Astro???????????????
I have a deteriorating problem on my van. When I bought it used, the blower/fan only worked on 4 and not on 1/2/3. Not a big deal.
Recently however, it has - intermittently - stopped working on 4 as well. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it works or not.....you can have 3 or 4 days of it working without any problems on 4 and then a week of nothing.
A month or so however, things continued to go downhill. It suddenly decided to blow onto the windshield only, and not on the face or floor vents. I rigged something up to redirect the a/c from the windshield via a pvc pipe onto my face to try and keep cool in the humidity. Unfortunately, this isn't very practical and not making me look a cool dude to friends and family!
I purchased a new contoller unit (about 8" long with the three knobs for the blower, heat/ac control and the locator button (floor, wwindshield/face). I was dismayed to find that this didn't solve the problem at all - everything remained as it was before and I therefore returned the new part.
I'm hoping therefore that someone can shed some light on what the problem may be. I'm being a cheapskate by not going to Chevy as the van has done 200,000 miles and i don't want to throw a ton of money into something that may well be on its's last legs anyway. I'm hoping that one inexpensive fix will sort out both issues.
Any comments or suggestions whatsoever would be HUGELY appreciated.
Refer to the lst few lines of post 246 on how to fix the problem on the a/c not blowing out the vents. Very simple fix involving an 1/8" dia plastic vacuum line. I am not sure on fixing the blower motor switch problem, it has not happen yet to my van. I would have probably done the same and purchased a new control unit. If it is an intermittant problem that it usually is caused by a loose wire or connection.
Sounds like a bushing is without grease. Do these motors have bearings or bushings? Sounds like a leaf is caught inside housing but has been making noise on & off for 4 weeks now. Van has 199k miles.
Also drivers power window only goes up 2" at a time. Needs to rest for 10 minutes before it goes up another 2". Similar problem going down.
latest problem is that ac compressor clutch sticks and doesn't engage. Makes a
rattle/ buzzing noise for 5 seconds then engages.