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Basic PIP is only $20K, lowered from $25K by the legislature to make premiums "more affordable" and to encourage compliance with our financial responsibility laws. I decline UM (uninsured motorist) and UND (underinsured motorist) coverage as they apply to medical payments only. They do not offer UM/UND property damage coverage. I have found in many cases that the premium for additional PIP limits is less than the UM/UND premium. There has continued to be a wide range in the UM/UND premiums charged by different companies.
Regarding health insurance, Bob is right on. I have drug/medication coverage with a co-pay of $5-15 for each prescription. I get reports from the medical carrier showing that while I co-pay $80-85 every two months, the "retail" (MSRP?) cost is $750-850. Makes me wonder how those without drug coverage can make it. And I use generics whenever possible.
hercules00, "What do you pay for insurance?" #121, 20 Jun 2005 11:23 pm
which seems like the best place to talk about insurance rates, and what they're based on, and the real or perceived discrimination. If the conversation really takes off, we'll create a new discussion.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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I was in an accident about a month ago. My car had a flat tire and was dragged off the road onto the median and it rolled three times before coming to a stoping roofside down. The car was front wheel driven and I believe the driver side front tire was punctured.
My insurance company says that I was speeding and that I lost control of the car. Which I believe is not true given the conditions. It was a two lane highway and the traffic had been very smooth and nobody was trying to pass and I myself was well within speed limits and maintaing very safe distance from other cars. The insurance company categorized this accident as "driver at fault".
I know for sure that the drivers side tires (front as well as rear both) were flat after the accident and that the rear tire looks like it had blown up because of impact with something, but the front tire doesnt look like that. It looks like it was already flat when the car ran off road. Also the front passengers tire though not flat, is at a heavy angle to the car almost like it was being dragged.
My insurance company is not really helping me with this. They shipped the car to their mechanic someplace and I havent seen my car since.
What are my options? Can I get and independent appriaser to get me a fair evaluation? Is it possible the Insurance company doctored this whole thing to blame it on the driver? How do I contest their assessment? How can I get a police report of the accident? What if the police report is wrong?
There were witnesses to this and I have no access to them. The car swerved wildly (for what felt like eternity but was probably a couple of seconds) before running off the road. I tried my level best to control the car through the steering wheel and the brake and I am sure this was obvious to drivers whose cars were following mine. Will I be able to contact them? How can I request for their contact information?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Any opinions on what to do now will be very helpful and I shall be grateful for any assistance.
Thanks.
The police report should be available to you anytime...the local police have it on file, pay $5 and get the report and see what the officer said...
Further, even if you were speeding, that is not usually a reason to deny coverage for this wreck, it is a reason not to renew you or to raise your premium astronomically...call the ins commissioner and find out why they do not have to pay, even if you were speeding...smells fishy to me...
No accident report was filed by the highway patrol that day. I am not sure if one was filed later. I will try to get a copy and check how out of sync the whole system is. What do I do if I dont agree with the insurance diagnosis or the police report?
I say I am not at fault and the insurance wants to blame me, either way how do the premiums get affected?
Sorry about the previous post, which may have appeared very confusing.
Thanks for the help.
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I know my rates are adjusted for a couple comprehensive claims on my vehicle, one was a break in while parked in front of my house and another was a broken window. Neither was my fault.
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To answer your question about how the premiums are affected, my son's policy has an "accident surcharge" on his policy for a couple minor accidents, total for both was about $6K.
For some reason you are overly concerned about the company's method of investigating a claim. They are entitled to do their own detective work to see if the crash was due to "vehicle design and or fault". If they expect some very expensive medical bills due to the injuries of your passengers, they are very right and reasonable to undertake an independent investigation. Should it be determined the crash was due to a "faulty" vehicle, the company would like to go after the manufacturer for their negligence.
Should, after their examination by an expert crash investigator, prove the vehicle was not faulty, then the crash fault can be attributed to you as no other vehicle or driver was involved. In every crash - there is fault.
but what concerned me was that they said i was speeding (which is totally untrue) and hence i was at fault. i assumed both cases were different and wasnt sure how they would appear on the driving record.
since there is nothing that i can do now i might as well give up.
thanks for the prompt replies.
Of course, a few months ago, my wife was rear ended (by someone who admitted to looking back at her infant) and can anyone guess - she (my wife) didn't get a police report. The other driver had a baby in the car (no nuns or priests) and couldn't be bothered to even give current ins info on her suburban uhttack vehicle (SUV).
It took me atout 10 days to track down the offender, who lived in my own development. Then it took USAA about another 2 weeks to get the driver to fess up to what she did.
She said she only "tapped" my car - yeah, that why there was a fist sized dent in my Fleetwood's chrome steel bumper!. Anyway, when the other ins company finally fessed up liability, I brought it to my preferred shop and they ended up needing to replace the bumper with a NEW one because there were no used ones around in my old one's condition, nearly doubled the repair bill. It took about 10 days, all on her ins co's dime for the rental.
The bad news for her (the other driver) is that she rear ended my wife who has had 2 cervical pinal cord surguries in the past,, we're having imaging done on her spine. Right now, treatment is with USAA's no fault, but We refuse to sign any ins final release or anything from the other ins company at this time.
GET A REPORT - ALWAYS
My questions:
1) Can insurance company really do this? Is there anything I can do so that I can get back my coverage, like change insurance company?
2) When I go to the body repair shop do I tell them that I got an estimate done from my insurance company or I wait to get the body shop’s estimate just to be safe incase their turns out to be lower than my insurance company thus giving me a better deal
3) My dents are too deep and no crack on the paint meaning I probably would have to go with the PDR process. However, is there anything I can do to minimize my cost? Like some kit and fix the dents my self. And would I prove this to the insurance company? I guessing my insurance company would need some kind of bill stating that I got my dents fixed, correct?
4) Anything else I need to know before I get screwed from my insurance company?
Thank you
Remember the "latent effect"...this is where the injury to the body sort of "hides" and does not show itself symptomatically for a delayed period of time...this is why after being rearended at 50 mph, when the cop asks if you were injured, people ofetn say, "No, I feel just fine"...then, they wake up the next morning virtually paralyzed, back pain, neck pain, arms/legs numb, but the insurance says (and maybe even some eyewitnesses standing around the wreck) that you stated you were just fine...they know that injuries do not always present themselves at the scene, but they will use that against the unknowing every time...
Have both a CT and MRI, in addition to plain film x-rays, as one is better for bone fracture, one is better for soft tissue, like a IVD (intervetebral disc)...something most doctors do not think of, because they are not oriented to the cause and effect of the auto injury...have a bone scan performed on the cervical spine...if the scan is positive, it will reveal that a fractured bone was RECENTLY fractured, telling the difference between an old fracture that may show up on x-rays, and a recent fracture related to the wreck...ins cannot argue with a bone scan, and it is usually solid evidence of recent fracture...be sure that your wife says to EVERY doctor that these tests are due to the auto accident of (date)...once again, doctors to not write their notes to help the legal profession (or you, if you represent yourself for possible settlement), so sometimes they will not note that it was accident related, just that you complained of neck pain...if the notes do not say accident related, it can be reasonably argued that it had nothing to do with the accident...just telling you what I have seen over the years...
If no fractures are there, and there is no pain, assume no injury in six months...if she hurts now, you do have pain, observe for as much time as it takes to resolve...if she hurts, be sure to see some doctor (MD, Chiro, DO, whatever you choose) regularly to document it, because no documentation means no pain, unless fracture is documented...then no treatment (assuming surgery not necessary) is OK as it just takes time to heal broken bones...if soft tissue only, like muscle, ligament, tendon, then regular observation by MD or treatment by Chiro is logical treatment...choose your weapons...hope this helps
I insure two cars (just for me) and I don't currently have rental or medical coverage. The rental insurance that marsha7 claims will cost no more than $2 per month costs me $4 per month. Plus, I recently dropped coll/comp from one of my cars (a cheap 2000 Kia Sephia) and I can't get rental insurance on that car WITHOUT also getting coll/comp. Besides I have TWO cars - what do I need rental insurance for?? :P :confuse:
The rental insurance costs $24 and having an extra car only costs $79 for 6 months.
As for medical - $500 costs $5/month and $50,000 costs $22/month. Not a lot of money, but I am in the military so I have all my medical bills covered. In the 3+ years I have been in the military I can count on one hand the number of times I have had non-military people in the car. And all four of those people have more than adequate medical coverage.
I don't see a good reason why I should get either coverage, given my situation.
I can see that you have been attending the paragraph school, but that you haven't graduated yet.
We're keeping records. All her visits for this are actually going through our auto ins (FL no fault at work here), and are tied to this accident. Thanks again and remember where that key is :P
If you are 100% certain the driver and passengers in the front car were/are not injured, fix your car on your purse because a chargeable crash on your record will probably increase your insurance premium in the next three years more than it will cost to realign the bumper.
If there is a possibility the occupants of the front car are injured, report the crash to your insurance company ASAP.
Try not to have any more "at fault" crashes and Good Luck.
well my I.D. doesn't mean anything, I just made it up. But the driver was the only one in the car and he was not hurt and neither was I. I don't think i hit him at 20 mph, i just meant that was how fast i was going and i tried to brake, but hydroplaned and hit him. I just meant the fastest i could have hit him was 20 mph. I'm just worried about getting overcharged at a body shop because i don't know anything about car repairs or parts.
Thanks again for your advice.
Now the bad part...you really don't know if the other party woke up 2 or 3 days later in severe pain...what I wrote about earlier called the "latent effect"...he may be receiving treatment for the next few months but you may not receive any notice from him or his attorney for 3,6,9 months...if you suddenly receive a demand for monetary damages and medical bills 10 months from now, you would turn it over to your auto insurance...HERE IS THE PROBLEM: most auto policies have a paragraph that states that you are obligated by contract law to inform them of an auto accident with 30 or 60 days of its occurrence...failure to do so may relieve them of any responsibility to insure you for that accident...so, if you take the gamble, and the other guy is injured, and you receive his demand for damages in 10 months for, say, $10,000, you submit it to your insurance, telling them about the wreck at that time, they may be legally able to deny all coverage because you failed to inform them within the required 30, 60, or 90 day time period...now you could be on the hook for $thousands, with no recourse but to pay him...
You could win this if he suffered no injuries...but if he was injured and your insurance is never told about the wreck, you could be in a serious pickle...choose wisely...
And this, my friends, is why I read this board.
'Cuz you cannot find this kind of information anywhere else, and when you do find out, it's usually too late.
Thanks, Bob & others,
-Mathias
I'm curious about the UM insurance you were talking about (I also have USAA). Have you been happy with how its worked out for you?
We are trying to decided if its worth the extra verses just using our current collision/comprehensive and medical insurance. We are not upside down on our car loan. And, we rarely have non-family member in the car, but when we do, they also have their own medical insurance.
Thanks for your comments. Hope your wife is feeling better!
Me personally, I do not care UM/UIM protection as I have other ways of covering an accident when the other driver is at fault and is not or is under insured.
Has anyone out there ever had to put a claim through Esurance??
Both front headlights are ok. The car hit the tree dead center. The winshield has a crack and the power windows are not working. The engine appears to be ok but the radiator etc is damaged. I am scared to call the insurance company at this point coz I do not have a spectacular driving history.
We are probably looking at a minimum of $4000 in damages....the airbags alone should be more that $3000. Cracked windsheild is relatively cheap. Radiator? I don't know....
But you probably want to call the ins. company.
More offered facts enable a better quality of response from us, but as of what you have mentioned, I'd make a claim with the company. If there is a lien on your car, the loss payee has something to say about it being fixed as well.
I see a Driving Education Course in your future & it would be helpful. Good Luck.
How much time do I have before I report this to the insurance company?
Also I had installed an MP3 player and new front speakers in the car. Will the insurance company consider that? Or do I have to take them out myself?
Based on what you stated with those numbers you obtained, I think they might total it and cut you a check for about $6500.
Those are both total guesses on my part, though.
As far as your stereo, you'll have to take those out if you want to keep them. No, insurance most likely won't care about them or pay for them.
Oh, by the way, if you do go to bat with your insurance company, you might want to come up with something better than "The car just went and hit the tree" if you want to inspire confidence in them and convince them to keep you as a policy holder.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Most casualty policies automatically cover an added vehicle for 30 days providing the same coverage as on the other scheduled vehicles. If one of your scheduled vehicles has full coverage, there is full coverage afforded to the newly acquired vehicle. (30 days from purchase date)
The 'phone number you called to add the new vehicle would be listed on your 'phone bill. That listed number would prove you called them on that date. The company's recorded conversation, on that date, can be brought up as well.
Considering the cost of Errors and Omissions insurance, companies today are pretty thourough in record keeping. Keep us posted and Good Luck.
Thanks
I have to say it would never have occurred to me that a phone call would not be good enough having done that every time I've changed anything about an insurance policy.
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Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Write a letter to the agent asking who his E & O Insurance Company is so you can make a claim against his policy for omitting the addition of the auto to your policy.
Send a copy your letter to your insurance company, keeping them in the loop.
Another copy should be mailed to your state insurance commissioner.
The letter should be very detailed including all dates, serial number, & persons talked to at the agency.
IMO, just bringing up his E & O insurance will turn up the burner under his butt.
Write a letter to the agent asking who his E & O Insurance Company is so you can make a claim against his policy for omitting the addition of the auto to your policy.
Send a copy of your letter to your insurance company, keeping them in the loop.
Another copy should be mailed to your state insurance commissioner.
The letter should be very detailed including all dates, serial number, & persons talked to at the agency.
IMO, just bringing up his E & O insurance will turn up the burner under his butt.
I have a clean driving record (no tickets), other than a $1,000 claim I made about 2 years ago from some damage that occured in my vehicle due to some items falling on it in the garage. I don't want my rates to go up over this. I also have a son who will be 16 in a couple of months, which will make my coverage even more "unattractive" to the insurance company.
1. My deductible for unsured motorists is $250. Do you think I should file this claim, or just pay for the repairs out of pocket?
2. Do you have any suggestions as to how to pursue the other driver for damages?
Thanks!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
While i was on business in CA my rental car got scratched in the parking lot of the hotel. The scratch to the door is minor and will cost less than 500 to paint/touch up.
I need to return the car in a couple of weeks and I am thinking of fixing it myself at one of local car repair shops. They said they can do it in one day. I am afraid to return the car scratched because rental car company will most likely overcharge for the repair and also for some lost revenue (which will be pretty high). I am afraid I will end up paying a lot more if I let rental car company determine how much repair costs instead of doing it myself and controlling my cost.
I do have insurance though:
1) my business liability insurance covers rental vehicle while on business. But I don't know how to file a claim and whether they would cover a convertible. I rented convertible because rental car company had a special price on them that was cheaper than my full size original rental. I can prove I've been on business as I have a legal contract in place for me to be in CA and I charged the rental on my business card. Business visa card itself does not have insurance feature, so I can't claim using credit card coverage like in the case of Amex, Diners Club etc.
2) my personal insurance covered rental car but has a deductible of 500 and won't pay for lost revenue expense rental car company may charge.
In other words, I feel at this point that my insurance options are more risky. Am I correct? Should I just pay out of my pocket for the rather inexpensive repair or should I try business insurance? On one hand I have risk free option of just paying 500 to fix the problem and no other headaches. On the other hand I have a chance to not pay anything at all but have a risk of overpriced quotes and some rejected line items from my insurance which may amount to more than 500 at the end with all the headaches.
Had any of you try business insurance and what are the limitations?
You could sue him for the money, but I assume you have a police report to prove fault, or eyewitnesses to testify on your behalf...getting your judgment will be the easy part...unless he has a regular job to garnish, good luck trying to collect!!!
But, you may consider at least getting the court judgment, cuz he may be well employed and worth garnishing...however, the caveat...folks who would let their insurance lapse usually are not too responsible in other areas of their lives, and are often judgment-proof cuz they are worthless deadbeats...