Questions About Auto Insurance and Accidents

euphonium

Claim Frequency is measured prior to offering renewal though. If non renewal, due to frequent claims, you can usually negotiate renewal with a high deductible.

marsha7

First, try and find out what Etheridge's insurance is, call and make a claim immediately...get the ins name, adjuster name, claim number, telephone and fax number, and mailing address...

Well, actually, first thing is to make sure that all the bleeding has stopped and all injured parties are being attended to by proper medical authorities, but I assume that common sense prevails...

You may want to call your ins company and also make a claim, because, until you know what Etheridge's policy limits are, the damages caused to you and the other four cars may exceed the amount of insurance he has...example, if the damage to all 5 cars totals $62K, but he has a $25K policy, many of you will have to make claims on your own policies as he does not have enough to pay for all the damages and rental cars needed...

Try and get at least a dozen photos of your car, front and back (where I assume the damage is) as you may never get your hands on the photos the ins co makes...also try and get photos of his car...also photograph the roadway where the accident occurred, where your photos will show where there are no skid marks, which will show that he never even tried to stop...to take this even further, any photos you can get of the other cars' damages will only serve to document just how fast he was going, and just how bad your injuries (and your passenger's injuries might be)

Depending on your injuries, you may wish to start treatment with a physical therapist, chiropractor or whatever you choose...even if no bones were broken, the force of the collision would justify any treatment you might need...oh, and if you have any pain now, assume that your pain could last up to a couple of months, because if you were struck by a camper at 60 mph, your injuries could be substantial...

You will have to document lost earnings, but you may not recover them for a few months, depending on how injury cases are settled in your state...

The value of your vehicle will be determined by sites like edmunds, kbb, nada, as you will be paid what it is worth, regardless of how much you may owe on the vehicle...if you owe more than it is worth, I hope you have GAP insurance...

This is a good start...get an adjuster out to view your car, get a rental car, and get adequate care for your injuries...most injury settlements will come in a few months, and most vehicle damage settlements will come in the next few days...if his insurance is slow on the uptake, make a claim with your company's collision, and they will subrogate and get paid by by Etheridge's ins...your rates will not go up since it was not your fault...also, if they are slow to appraise the damage, use your rental car insurance to get a rental for as long as you need, up to 30 days...

aleciav

dear Mathias (or Mia), i'm also wrestling with an insurance company over the fair value of my car--before it was stolen it was a 2000 Honda Civic EX sedan (4 cyl, 5 spd with theft device) in immaculate condition, 60,000 miles (all scheduled maintenance and no problems whatsoever). the insurance company is offering $9,700 base; i thought it was worth more like $10,500+. my search for comparable cars for sale in my area yields a few "SE" models pricing around $10K, which they're eliminating. they're also not taking anything outside of a 33-mile radius. can you 1. offer a fair price ballpark for me that will stand with them? 2. tell me if there is even such thing as a Civic SE? i know the Accord came out with an SE--found the full edmunds history on that. need to convince the insurance folks somehow; i'm fighting them tooth and nail on EVERYTHING. it sucks. thank you kindly and much! Alecia

qbrozen

$10k may be an ASKING price for a 6-year-old economy car with a stick, but its certainly not a TAKING price. $9700 is ALOT of money for that car. You would have a heck of a hard time getting that much if you sold it on your own. I'm confident I could buy a similar car from a dealer for quite a bit less than $9700.

Just my opinion ... but take the money and be happy.

aleciav

thank you for the prompt response.

may i ask another question? two months ago my car was recovered with one quart of oil, engine modified, after a police chase. i'd suspected engine damage from the beginning and was assured it was checked and ruled out before $5,000 in cosmetic repairs were performed. i picked it up after 6 weeks and black exhaust poured out of the tailpipe. a compression test at a subcontracted Honda service demonstrated engine damage, and i've just learned that the test was never done before then--in fact the shop that had my car never checked the integrity of the engine--they performed a "safety check" and then went on to repair the body. no one but me advocated for proper diagnosis--not my insurance claims adjuster, the inspector authorizing any repair, the guy that runs the shop in charge of my repairs. after two and a half months without my car (and without rental reimbursement) i'm incredulous (and poorer for it). it could have been totaled to begin with had this been properly handled. do i have any recourse? thanks, again.

qbrozen

I'm getting lost ... i thought you said they offered you $9700 for your car ... but you are saying they repaired it?? Did they total the car or not??

aleciav

long story, obviously. they recovered the car and proceeded to put $5,000 into the body, though it was still not complete at pick up. as i drove away it began smoking (I'M about to start!). only after a trip to Honda was it properly diagnosed and yes, now totaled.

i believe it should have been diagnosed and totaled at the outset (and my letters to them from June 1 reflect this), but they placated me--insurance company and car repair shop--assuring all had been done correctly.

my point of contention--per Honda--a compression test is just what you do when a stolen recovery presents with one quart of oil remaining. you don't just check the left blinker and the tire pressure and get to work replacing body panels.

had this been handled correctly i wouldn't be 2.5 months into this. i had to purchase a replacement car, i've lost time from work, etc., etc. just wondering if there's recourse for me. my loss on this is far more than the total payout. thanks.

nynewcar

Thanks euphonium. We do have two chargeable accidents on our policy - the only two claims we ever made in ~13 years with the company, and one of them drops off in the next renewal (after 40 months). I only recently started learning about this stuff and I'm still trying to understand why they are charging us about 3.5K more than any other "apples to apples" quote I got, and that's why I was particularly leery when this glass problem occurred.

But it seems that they do not "hold it against" us - maybe because that's the law in our state (NY), maybe because that's their policy re comprehensive claims (not collision, and therefore, as the insurance co. rep said, "not the driver's fault"), maybe because it was a low-value non-suspicion-alerting claim (only one side window), maybe because it was only the third time ever we claimed anything on our policy. Maybe a combo of reasons.

In any case, the window-fixer dude came out to us the next day, fixed it quickly and well, and I hope there won't be repercussions on our policy.

mikefm58

Hmmmm, one quart of dirty oil left in the engine? How long was your car gone? Bet that itty bitty quart of oil was in there a loooong time. No wonder your engine was toast.

Your insurance adjuster messed up.....big time. Any one with half a brain that sees an engine with one quart of oil left would have the engine thoroughly checked out by a competent mechanic. The body shop doesn't care, if the vehicle is totalled out, they make zero, so their incentive is to fix it.

qbrozen

ok. now i'm with ya.

well, as far as extra money for pain and suffering or time off of work, I can't help ya there. You probably have no recourse, but I'm not a lawyer.

aleciav

the thieves drove 2,000 miles in the two weeks they had my car. not sure what that does to oil, but i know they were doing some hard driving.

the adjuster messed up, the inspector messed up, the "cosmotologists" made out--yep. this sucks. i'll see where i get with the insurance company, hope i don't have to resort to an attorney (though you can bet i've identified one), and get over this, lessons learned, and move on.

i've considered divesting myself of all cars and returning to my bicycle as my primary/sole mode of transportation. really, it's the BEST (if you don't have to be anywhere in a hurry, more than 30 miles away, carry much, or look good when you get there). but really, getting everywhere by bike for two years was some of the best living i've ever done.

thanks everyone for your input on the car. i'll look for other posts, but this has been really helpful.

mikefm58

" i've considered divesting myself of all cars and returning to my bicycle as my primary/sole mode of transportation. really, it's the BEST (if you don't have to be anywhere in a hurry, more than 30 miles away, carry much, or look good when you get there). but really, getting everywhere by bike for two years was some of the best living i've ever done. "

I've thought of the same thing. My work is only 18 miles away but too much highway driving.

bklounge

Ive got a question for al lthe Insurance experts..

Ive got a poor driving record..Ive got 2 seperate wrecks in the past 2 years..Totaling out 2 Motorcycles..Both werent involved with any other vehicles and 1 speeding ticket..My wife has a wreck where che rearended another vehicle and totaled out her Honda Passport..

Now im trying to get a newer vehicle and am going to have to get full coverage because of the lean that will be on it..Also im only 20 and shes 21...Yea i know..Bad..Anyways one place quated me at 6000 a year on a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee...And thats bending me over imo..Here lies the Question: Is there an insurance company or way of finding one that insures high risk drivers for cheaper rates? I need help...ANYONE? BTW live in Kansas

TY so much in advance

mikefm58

Try progressive.com or geico.com.

marsha7

try those companies, but my first thought might be to buy something a little cheaper than a 2005 JGC, and expect more $$$ to go to insurance prmeiums...

Not to rub it in, but your description of your and wife's driving record at age 20 and 21 is pitiful...the exact type of driver that insurance companies place in high risk, because you are high risk...with 2 cycle accidents that did not involve another vehicle means, I assume, you managed to total two bikes with reckless driving (unless you hit something like black ice in the winter, which no one could avoid losing control)...

if your wife totalled the Passport, I assume that the other vehicle suffered major damages, so ins probably paid out a pretty penny for her...

I wish I had encouragement, but I would buy a cheaper car, suck up and pay the premiums until your driving record allows your premiums to drop, and hopefully have no more accidents that are your fault...

You might say that between your ages, and driving records, the high risk pool was created for drivers like you...sorry to be so blunt, but I do not know what else to say...

euphonium

Marsha is offering very good advice.

Recommend you "shop" several Independent Insurance agents because they represent several companies and can at least offer you a selection of premiums. However, the problem lies in the company's underwriter who may refuse your application due to your records.

Your living together married is a plus for you with the underwriters. Good Luck.

smoochy

Hi Marsha7, you were oh so helpful with all of my questions I thought I would pass on a bit of info since my last post (re: I filed my injury claim just last months with my insurance - MetLife - because I didn't know I had medical coverage...d'oh!). Anyway, I'm not ready to settle with the other person's Geico insurance, but MetLife paid all of my health insurance expenses before I even sent them that Medical Authorization I was so concerned about! They haven't paid my copays yet because it took me a few weeks to get all of the info, but they did pay my health insurance and I've signed a waiver with them that any future care is not subject to either reimbursement or subrogation. So what MetLife paid covers subrogation to my health insurance plus all of my out of pocket costs for the last two years. Whatever I do/don't negotiate with Geico covers my lost wages and significant pain/inconvenience (but it takes a lot of the pressure off negotiations now that I know I don't **owe** anyone anything)! It's a small win for the cynic :-) Thank you again for all of your help!!

I would like to ask after reading some recent posts, does this type of claim count against me in terms of premiums? This was a rearend accident with the other driver at fault. I haven't filed any other claims - home or auto - with MetLife in about 10 years, and that was for a very small amount.

bklounge

lol Marsha couldn't you at least let me down easy...8( JK..Thanks for the advise.. Yea the cycles were silly accidents and i actually shouldn't have claimed the second one..But what can i say..Im inexperienced and immature.. Did my dads words just leave my mouth?? Anyway thanks again for the info and i will heed the advise!

marsha7

In my mind, I DID let you down easy...if you were one of the regular poster here I would have really been direct and blunt...I kinda thought I was tactful, diplomatic and gentle...:):):):):)

smoochy: it should not count against you, as it was not your fault...it could count against you, even if not your fault, if it was the 5th accident in two years, because then they want to dump you for being Calamity Jane...:):)

euphonium

See below for Marsha7's used car lot.

marsha7

They survived Katrina...they survived Andrew...they survived Camille...barely a drop of water inside...not enough to save anyone dehydrated from walking the Sahara Desert...

Buy here...Pay here...and pay here...and pay here...and pay here...oh, and I don't sell Gap insurance on my loans...

Come one, come all!!!!!

:):):):):):):):):):):):)

lilyowen

I hope you didn't drive on the 13th or 14th until 4:35pm -- that's all I've got for ya.

euphonium

Had you moved from Pasadena to Santa Monica you most certainly would have wanted a return premium reflecting your new lower rated territory.

It works both ways. The premium in the higher rated territory is what determines what you owe, not the date on the calendar or hands on the clock.

Had you moved to a lower rated territory, Progressive would have issued a Return Premium within thirty days.

Progressive is playing by the rules of the CA Insurance Commission and they play fair.

boycott_progre

Euphonium,
So you say Progressive Isurance is not being decieptive when they accecpt my money for a NEW POLICY TERM knowing my new address without updating the price? My question stands. Why could I get an accurate instant quote if I was a new customer, but that they can show my NEW ADDRESSS and a price and not have to honor it? Can you explain why a new customer gets faster and more accurate pricing than a returning, loyal customer? :mad:
My driving record had not changed only the place I sleep and park at night. I realize that different areas are charged different rates BUT if 99.9% of people providing accurate information can get an accurate, instantaneous quote, what is the justification for giving less timely and less accurate service? OR simply stating BEFORE I paid in full for 6 months that due to my recent address change my rate could change.
In the 21st century that would probably take their computer programmers very little time to type: (If address change since last payment then CLEARLY post message before payment that rate shown may not reflect actual rate owed)
In my experience, they didn't post the potential for a rate change clearly or unclearly and that is suspicious :mad:
If they played fair I would still be their happy customer

tidester

I think you complicated matters by letting your policy lapse. Why did you not do the change of address after you moved and before the policy lapsed? Just curious!

tidester, host

euphonium

When a Prospect first calls Progressive for a quote, the Prospect talks to Sales Center. The Sales Center personnel only know what the Prospect tells them and the Quote Desk of the Sales Center bases their quote on the address they are told by the prospect in the intitial call.

Policy Service Centers handle changes in existing accounts. The Policy Renewal Department issued your renewal based on address information known to it at the time they issued the Renewal.

It takes a few days for the communication from the Service Center to get to the Home office and then the Home office transmits the change to the Policy Renewal Center which is obligated by law to issue either an additional premium notice or a return premium notice.

As these different centers can be located in different places for they have different functions your patience is developed and that's O K.

Bottom line is it works both ways and it is fair. It appears your issue is the quality of timely updated communication with the company. In your case the additional premium is correct and owed.

weber5

I was rear ended and the lady admitted fault (I also have a witness). We are both with the same insurance company. I drive a 2006 A4. Do I have the right to demand a vehicle of like or similar quality to rent while my car is being repaired?

marsha7

Generally, no...maybe in overall size, but not the specific vehicle...so, do not expect an A4, but you can certainly get excited over the possibility of a hi-perf Taurus or Sable while your car is being repaired

Now, if you had an E150 van damaged, you could probably demand a van, but you would probably get a very stripped model...they have to provide you with transportation, not your preferred transportation...

mbgc1

My ded is 500 . I was hit by a hit and run. I don't have the deduct and was just informed that when I switched coverage to the new car I didn't " request" rental coverage even though I have always had it before so I cant get a rental for the week it will take to repair the car.

The issue now is I don't wnat to repair the car but it is only 7 months old and had a lein holder chryler financial. The adjuster said the check needs to be made out o eith me and chrysler or me and a body shop. Is there any way around this?

bobst

What the adjuster said makes sense to me.

Who owns the car? I would say that Chrysler owns it until you have paid off the loan.

If I were in Chrysler's place, I would want the money spent to fix my car.

danaf

Hi I will be renting a car for at least a month and the third party liability insurance (Liability Insurance Supplement) at the car rental company is very expensive ($13/day). I heard that there is liability insurance for people who rent cars a lot but does not own one. Has anyone used it? Where can I buy it? I have checked with a couple of agents but they don't provide it. Thanks a lot.

lilyowen

Take the check made out to you and Chrysler Financial and sign it over to Chrysler to pay down your loan.

lilyowen

Go to an agent and ask about Named Operator insurance. Have them describe it to you in detail and carefully read the policy -- in regards to what is and what is not covered. If you own a vehicle, this coverage typically will not cover you while driving a vehicle that you own.

euphonium

You switched the schedule of cars. You did NOT switch Coverages i.e. Rental Cost. If you had Rental Cost before, you should have it continued. A Customer Service Representative failed to retain previous Coverage. They are trying to cover their [non-permissible content removed] by saying you didn't request it. Well, they should understand you didn't request to delete Rental Coverage. This is the company/agency's Error and Omission.

Your agreement with the lienholder requires you to repair the vehicle.

mbgc1

Thanks for the greeat ideeas. Using the check to pay down the car is a great idea if they will go for it.

I am calling safeco directly this morning to discuss the rental coverage thing.

marsha7

Just as a side note, Safeco is one of the two worst insurance companies in the state of GA...the other one is Safeway...and I do not know if the two are related in some way...

euphonium

Safeco is the grandson of Oregon Mutual Ins. Co., McMinnville, OR. Because O.M. was a very conservative operation, a few of the more "progressive" guys left the company, drove to Seattle and formed Northwestern Mutual Fire Association, known today as Unigard. Well, some of the guys at NWM decided to really be aggressive and moved to the University district of Seattle to form The General Insurance Co. of America, known today as SAFECO.

Having been in the agency side of the business since 1955, I quickly learned SAFECO was the company we loved to hate.
A very dictatorial outfit to do business with and their claims adjusters are known as Shylocks.

Today, their immediate past CEO is running for WA senator.
Safeco gave him a wonderful retirement package which is sponsoring his campaign.

Is it no coincidence SAFECO is an English brand of a prophylactic?

danaf

Thanks a lot lilyowen.

mbgc1

Well the body shop said the adjuster is way off and that no one could fix the car for what he put the estimate at. Also he wouldn't include one of my damaged doors because he said it didn't look like it happened at the same time.

jplyman

When I totaled out my car (12 years ago) it was 6 months old and the adjuster for Travlers wanted to give me 8,000 less than I paid for the car from my father's dealership. Needless to say this wouldn't work! I finally had to tell the adjuster that I felt that I needed a lawyer who could help me with all this complex stuff and look out for my interest. It was amazing that I had a check the next day for the adjusters amount plus the 8k.

Insurance claims adjusters are tyring to give you as little as possible for your car and will try and deny as much as possible. There job is to cost the insurance company as little as possible and have no headaches. If you become a headache and ask about thier grievence policy and say things like maybe I need a lawyer to help me settle this - they will probably make a settlement that is fair.

Make sure you know what is fair though do your home work and you should be able to make it through.

Good Luck

marsha7

I am glad the threat of a lawyer worked for you...often, in the case of vehicle damage, it may not...

If I was to take the case, it owuld not be on a contingency basis, it would be on a prepaid retainer by the hour...most folks will not be willing, or able, to pay ggod money for what the insurance should be doing anyway...you can request reimbursement of atty fees from the judge, but cases like this they are often not granted...

FYI...

lhsmom

:lemon: I had a 2003JeepLibertySport.Nov 04 Ball Joints were replaced under the Recall. June 06 Ball Joints failed causing accident... I ended up in a corn field. Was not cited as it was failure of the vehicle. $3500 in damages were paid by Grange Insurance. July 30, 2006 Jeep announces a Recall on the ball joints they just replaced. I am grateful they paid for the damages, but my insurance premium went up because the claim was over $1000. When speaking with the Jeep in Auburn Hills, they claim I can not try to recoup the cost from Jeep Corp, it is my insurance company's responsibility to do so. My agent is currently checking into this. Now that the parts are on Recall again do you think Grange will spend the time to get reimbursed?
I want my premiums to go back down. If Grange were reimbursed for the $3500 from the accident, wouldn't my premium decrease? By the way, I traded the piece of crap off yesterday.

jb_turner

It looks like you will need to retain a lawyer and sue.

marsha7

recover the money it paid, but you may also recover the lost value of the car from the wreck...you would have to prove that the failed ball joint was the direct cause of the wreck, but you may have a decent chance of recovery...but expect a suit to take 1-2 years, unless their attorneys see the light...the issued recall will be damning evidence if you can prove that it caused your wreck...

smoochy

Anyone know where I can get crash test information on a 1999 Mazda 626 LX V6. The car is a tank and a rearend collision 2 years ago resulted in little damage (about $1K), yet I suffered what I consider significant and prolonged back and neck injuries. I want to be preemptive and provide the insurance company with information that states the vehicle can stand x miles per hour and only suffer this amount of damage but all I can find is information that says if you are in a rear, front or side impact, your likelihood of "serious" injury is x%...not at all what I am looking for. I want to be able to say my car can withstand a rearend collision of x miles per hour and only sustain $1K in damage and that provided medical reports state that rearend collisions of x miles per hour can most definitely result in significant and prolonged (not serious) back/neck pain of the type I have claimed.

I hope that all made sense :-).

Two other quick questions:
1. Do you think it is premature to send this type of information with my initial demand letter...maybe it seems that I am trying too hard to prove that I was injured (which oh by the way, I was). I just know how hard she hit me and even I was incredulous when they said only $1K in damage. I was certain it had to me more.

2. Does anyone have a link to a well-written demand letter example I can reference? I'm afraid I'll get too emotional if I try to write it on my own but I also want to state just how much this injury has impacted my life.

I would appreciate any guidance. I've received more useful information from this website than I have from the two lawyers I have consulted about my case.

cccompson

My two cents is that you should HIRE a lawyer IMMEDIATELY. If it's been two years you're likely coming up on the statute of limitations and need to file suit NOW. Given your described situation, a demand letter at this late date will yield no positive results.

hawaiianhunny

Back in May 2005, I switch my insurance company to Canadian Direct. They issued the policy with $1000 collision deductible. Somehow, since May 2005 they've raised my deductible to $3000 without my consent!!! Their excuse was because after they issued the policy, they discovered that I live with my parents and I didn't include them as drivers at the time of application. My parents will NEVER drive my car, but they still put them on the policy anyway. I've gotten into 2 non-fault accidents since my policy was issued with CDI. Now I got into an at-fault car accident and they want me to pay $3000!!!! Can CDI do such a thing???? Please help.

pgill

Hope the experts on this board can help...

I have a 2006 BMW 530xiT (wagon) that got caught in a flash flood and sustained extensive water damage. The initial estimate came out to be about $20k including a new engine. I have heard too many horror stories of recurring electrical and mechanical problems after water damage that I want the car totaled. However, due to my car being so new, insurance company is inclined to fix the car.

What is the best course of action to convince the insurance company to total the car? Any advice would be much appreciated.

qbrozen

what kind of water? salt water is a much bigger problem and i could see arguing for rewiring the whole car, etc.

you can try to keep talking to your insurance company, but, honestly, its going to be REAL tough to get a company that is in business to make money to pay out $40k to total a car rather than $20k to fix it.

skuba

Do you know what's the number that insurance companies, specifically AAA, are looking when they ask how many miles a year we drive? This has to do with the premium price.

Let me be more clear. If I signed with AAA 1 year ago and had, let's say 15k miles. After 1 year they want to know what's the current mileage reading, so they can figure out the new premium. How much would be a good number to avoid increased premium? Know what I mean?

Thanks