Yes, the 1999 Sport grille and bumper will mount to your 97. Just make sure you get the complete set, as the 99 Sport grille is slightly larger and the bumper is depressed in the center to accomodate it.
I have not had much luck with my Dodge 1500. So far I have replace 2 transmission, one rear differential. The dash has literally fallen out of the truck in peaces. The paint is of poor quality and the over all truck is of poor design as far as the way it is put together and the materials used. I have had to push ever issue to the wall to get the dealers to fix the obviously manufactures defects, Week and months lost as the truck set at the dealer. It’s a shame I really like the truck looks and room in the cab, if they would use good quality materials and rethink the way the truck is put together it could be one of the best.
Hmm. What year is your Ram? Mileage? New-bought or used? My '03 2500 is the best-built vehicle I've ever owned, and I haven't had a problem that wasn't my own fault (gelled fuel) yet. What manufacturer defects do you have? My paint is fine (aside from the dings I've put in it) and my dashboard is solid. I can't answer for your tranny or diff as my 6-speed manual and heavy-duty diff were never available in the 1500.
Hello everyone, My name is Michael and I bought My first new Dodge ram 2500 quad cab last year. I've owned a few dodge diesels in the past. I loved the truck, plenty of room, plenty of power and got great fuel mileage. Shortly after I got it though it started having starting problems, and they turned into stalling problems. Has any one heard of this with the 05's? It had been in the shop several times, but since id did thid=s only intermitently they never could find the problem or recreate it. It is not a problem anymore since it helped me to not negatiate a sharp curve in the road, but would like to know if this is a common problem before I buy another new truck. :sick:
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Hello ,my truck is in good shape well thats all my parts besides the paint job everything is great, My bed is really scrached up and i am open for any suggestings for were i could get a real nice paint job around the san antonio area? :shades:
If I were you, I'd seek out a Rhinoliner or Herculiner (or other brand of bedliner) dealer and get your bed lined. If you scratched up the old paint job, you'll scratch up the new paint job - a spray-in liner will hide all of that. I do NOT recommend a drop-in liner. I had my truck Rhinolined the week after I got it and it's holding up just fine (though it's quite dusty looking).
Well, my Rhinoliner was $470 - no special colors but they're expensive around here. If you're just looking for a paint job, call around and get some quotes. There are a lot of variables, and we can't get you a quote from in here. Again, if you scratched up the old paint, you'll scratch up the new paint.
Where can I find what the rear end ratio on my 06 mega cab cummins is? I see a 4:10 is available, but don't see a reference to it on the original window sticker. It is it not specifically listed as an option, does that tell me it is NOT the 4:10?
It was a cost option ($44), so it should appear on the sticker. You can also check in your glovebox - there is a decal that lists the option codes. "DMF" is the code for 4.10 diff.
Excellent. Thanks. The owner's manual was anything but clear on this. While I am on the drivetrain - the '06 HD's have a new transmission. Is this new tranny a. worth it's weight in steel, and is it, as I am getting bits and pieces of, made in Japan by "Aisin" or the like? I had concerns buying the truck due to known tranny issues, but my dealer says the whole issue has been resolved with the new ones.
The 06 trannies are still the same as the 05s. The new automatics are for the 07s. The Japanese-made Aisin 6-speed automatic is used in the new chassis-cab models only. In January, there will be a Mopar-built 6-speed automatic for the pickups. Both these 6-speed autos are for the new 6.7L Cummins diesel only. The Hemi keeps its existing transmissions for 07.
The 545RFE used on 4.7 & 5.7 engines will also receive variable line pressure sometime in 2007. I'm not sure, but I think the 48RE will also receive it as well, but that may come later.
Dusty, the 48RE gets killed off this December along with the 5.9L Cummins in pickup iuse (as opposed to the new chassis-cab model which already has the 6.7L Cummins and the Aisin automatic). In January, the diesel pickups will get the 68RFE, big brother of the 545.
had a question whether anyone has this issue with their 1500. on left turns when not going fast (turning, etc) there is a vibration/rubbing noise in the steering. the dealer said they could not replicate it at the present time ((suppose they did not check enough)).. it does it every day. a friend of mine had a 2003 and his did the same thing. just wondering if it is something normal with a ram. this is my first truck and love everything else about it. thanks
I'm having the same problem with my 06 Ram. I'll be taking it into the Dealer on 20 Nov 06, I'll let you know how it goes. They claim to be the 4th largest Ram dealer in the nation so this problem has had to have shown up before.
I have taken my 06Ram back to the dealer in Chattanooga TN.. they had to contact a place in engineering headquarters or something of that nature. They are aware of the problem now and my dealer/service center should have the answer from them in about a month. They (headquarters) are working on a way to fix the problem so that it can be resolved. Hope this helps.
I have had my truck for 6 months and i love it. However, when i go over the smallest of bumps or small pot holes it makes a heck of a lot of noise and it resonates right thru the cab. I have replaced the shocks and my mech. tells me the suspension bushings seem ok.He also says all Dodge Rams are like that. Can anyone tell me if this is inherant or if there is a fix, Engine noise i am not worried about. Thanks Carnut17
I have a 2002 1500 Quad cab that I bought new in the fall of 2001. The shuddering you describe is inherent to all later Dodge Rams I think. The is a rail road track I drive over all the time and when I do, the Ram shudders to where it jars my old bones...
I still LOVE this truck though and after 80,000 miles, have to intention of trading it.
Keith, your the second person who says, " it's just the way Dodges are". Thats ok, i just wanted to make sure i didn't have any chassis problems.I wonder if anyone recommends replacing the front coil springs? I have 130,000 miles which is nothing for the Cummins but a lot for the front springs considering how heavy the motor is. Maybe i should just buy a Cadillac and turn it into a pick up, WHADOYAA THINK!! THANKS!! Keith Carnut(Jeff)
Hello...Dirty_Steve here, I am new to this forum today. I have a Black 97 Ram 1500 SS/T, 5.9 liter(360 cid for the older crowd ). I bought it in June of 2000. It was supposed to solve my backup vehicle situation but became my son's everyday driver for his last 2 years of high school. We've since added a Sony stereo receiver,CD player and 1500 watt amp with 2 Memphis 12.5" sub-woofers. My son showed it a few times and won a couple 2nds in local sound competitions. On one of his home visits from college he went for a "spin" and ended up putting it nose first into a ditch off an icy road. He was uninjured but the Ram suffered a broken windshield, smashed right front fender, smashed headlamp and grille, and the frame was bent. Now nearly 2 years later the frame has been straightened windshield replaced, steering box replaced, both front calipers, rotors and pads. New right front fender and inner fender well, new radiator core support, tie-rods and idler arm. We've added custom black-back tail lights, and black-back headlamps. This week it goes in the shop for new tires, an alignment and new brake lines to the rear. I'll drive it for awhile till I get another car. Then it goes back into winter storage. In the spring we'll do a thorough rust check-over, minor ding repairs, new paint and custom ghost flames and lots of clear coat. Then Back to the shows again.
I have a 2006 3500 Diesel Megacab. Love it. One issue however. The first time I start the vehicle each day, after 15 seconds, I hear a clunking sound from the motor. If I disable the air conditioning before I start the motor, I don't hear it. My service people tell me this is normal. Do I have a problem?
Hey, my truck makes A/c noise also except when i shut the truck off i can hear hissing/gurgling noise coming from inside the right side front grill and it disapears after about 1 minute. Anyone know what this is? Thanks Carnut17
I have just purchased an 06 3500 dually CTD quad cab with 4wd. Are there any common problems that this vehicle is experiencing? This question arises out of the continuing discussions with friends on who builds the best heavy duty pick up. I have a 93 CTD. and it has been a workhorse to date.
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Yeah no trouble here either 97 2500 4x4, always heard about these so called trans problems till I hit 201590. This truck has been a work horse so I figured that $1600.00 was worth getting the trans rebuilt by a real shop. Works as well as it did from the dealer. Maybe I can hit another 200k before any other problems
i love my dodge truck 01 2500 but i need to upgrade to a 3500 dually i have bought a bigger horse trailer and i want to know opinions of what was a good year i am thinking of another 01 or an 03 what does everyone think?of course we are talking diesel.
Hello I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 p/u and have changed the oil pump twice. The problem is when its cold it registers the oil pressure gauge fine after about 15 minutes it starts to drop and the check gauges light comes on and i can here a ticking where the tappies as I call them aren't getting oil, I can turn the truck of for a minute and start it up and the oil gauge will be normal and the ticking noise goes away and it starts again with the gauge dropping and check gauge light by the ticking noise. i've changed the air filter and have no leaks on the oil pan. i know the oil pumps I have put in are standard but there is also a high volume pump, will this mess up my engine or? PLEASE HELP tired of trying.
Hmmmm, I think something else is going on here. Obviously as the oil temperature increases and the viscosity drops the oil pressure goes down.
You don't say how many miles are on this engine. A bad oil filter bypass valve could cause this problem, or a bad oil filter, too.
If those aren't the problem, I'd pull the main bearing caps and check the crankshaft main journals and main bearings for heavy gouges, wear or galling.
Yes, size matters! Here in South Jersey nobody stops at stop signs, not even Trooper Higbey. Upon setting my butt behind the wheel of this mammoth beast I've found that people suddenly stop at stop signs. Thank you Dodge, you are the best law enforcement this state has seen in years!
I own an '03 CTD, though it's not a dually. I love my truck - the ONLY problem I've ever had is water getting into the cab-roof lights. The engine has been bulletproof so far, and even 4.5 years after I got it it still feels like my own personal rocket booster. Plus, I've got 4x4, a high cap, AT tires, over 75% city driving and a lead foot - and I'm still getting over 15 mpg. Can't beat that with a stick!
Has any Dodge Ram owners had issues with the fuel gauge bottoming out on empty with fuel in the tank? After I burn off 4-5 gallons of fuel my gauge goes to empty and my digital readout that shows miles left has lines for the data. I do not know if my gauge is stuck in the tank or if it is electrical issues. I would love any feedback from fellow owners that have experienced this problem.
I've never had my gauge go to empty (though I know that there's always fuel in the tank to keep the fuel pump cool - that's for the diesel but I think the gasser's the same) - but I did go thru a period where my trip computer showed only lines - it cleared up on its own but it was annoying.
I have a 2006 QuadCab with a 4.7 in it and the Lone Star pkg which includes 20" tires with a 275 tread width. I have the same problem and talked to the dealer (lot of Dodges in S. Texas). My problem is at low speeds and we think the power steering pump was not designed to handle tires this big. There is no problem at highway speeds and folks I have talked to who don't have the big tires, don't report the problem. I will probably wait until around 30,000 and get Dodge to put a new power steering unit in. Maybe by then, they will have a beefier one.
This is a follow-up to a post I made in August 2005 regarding my '99 Ram 1500. I only now resolved it entirely, and I think it could help someone. You can skip to the very bottom for the solution, or choose to read as much as you like.
You'll want to read the original post first, titled "Do I have a lemon?".
1. To fix the engine light problem, I only had to screw the stupid gas tank lid tighter. Doh! I paid $70 for a mechanic to tell me that. I've decided not to go back to him anymore. I'll take my business elsewhere. 2. To fix the engine running rough, I took Dusty's advice and went for a tune-up at Pep Boys ($440) which wasn't a complete waste of money since I needed to replace a few things, but it didn't help the engine run any smoother. You would think it would have helped, but evidently the problem was elsewhere. 3. I then took it for a diagnosis where they said my catalytic converter needed to be replaced (55K miles). That set me back about $700, but it took care of the engine running rough. However, I was still getting horrible gas mileage (it went up to 7MPG from 6). I should mention that I happened to be back at that Pep Boys for a different reason and ran into the service department manager who credited me $100 and apologized. Very nice gesture and much appreciated. 4. Over a year goes by with my 7 MPG limiting my driving to what's absolutely necessary, and I'm at the Power Chevy dealership where my wife's Equinox was getting some warranty work, and a young mechanic named Mike Ortiz is taking down our information when I tell him about the problem I have. He immediately made a connection - replacing the catalytic converter at only 55K miles means it's running too rich (which I thought it was, too), and the bad gas mileage may also be attributed to it. so he recommended I clean the throttle body. He explained you just buy a can of throttle body spray and spray the whole thing in there. I went to Pep Boys and was looking around the cleaner isle for it when the service department manager comes up and says hello. When I said what I was looking for he took me to the service department, and gave me a free bottle. I went out to the parking lot where I did the work myself (very easy!) and then went on a road trip that allowed me to measure the gas mileage. I'm happy to report that I'm back above 13 MPG! On most cars it's even easier to do than what mind. On my '99 1500 5.9L, I had to take the air filter assembly off so I can look down the air intake at the butterfly valve, and I sprayed all around in there. The car will take a little time to start after you're done, but it will start. On other cars, you don't even have to take the air filter off. Just follow the hose from the air filter assembly, remove the far end of it, and you should see the butterfly valve you need to spray. 5. There is no #5. This is long enough
I learned 2 important things here worth sharing, which is why I came back 1.5 years after my original post:
1. If your car is running rough, it may be a tune-up you need, but be sure to have your catalytic converter checked out. 2. If you're getting bad gas mileage, spray an entire can of throttle body cleaner down your air-intake. Mine went from 7 to over 13 MPG.
I think this forum is great, and I hope this post helps someone. lasteston
If you're getting a series of hyphens (dash lines) in the readout when the gauge starts to go irratic, it indicates that the PCM has lost the fuel level signal from the sender unit in the fuel tank.
My first suspicion is you either have an intermitent electrical connection, or more likely a bad fuel level sending unit.
Hi... I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2 liter. My High beam indicator is staying on at all times...After I unplugged the daytime running light module years ago, the high beam indicator never came on...I have kept the connector dry by wrapping in plastic, and it is still dry...Also sometimes my speedometer does not work and the check engine light comes on...This all just started today. Has anyone else had this problem? And where would I start to look? Any info would be appreciated...Thanks
Comments
kcram - Pickups Host
:shades:
Again, if you scratched up the old paint, you'll scratch up the new paint.
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
Best regards,
Dusty
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks for the correction.
Bests,
Dusty
kcram - Pickups Host
I have a 2002 1500 Quad cab that I bought new in the fall of 2001. The shuddering you describe is inherent to all later Dodge Rams I think. The is a rail road track I drive over all the time and when I do, the Ram shudders to where it jars my old bones...
I still LOVE this truck though and after 80,000 miles, have to intention of trading it.
Good luck!
Keith
FAT FINGERS!
kcram - Pickups Host
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http://www.inform.kz/showarticle.php?lang=eng&id=147616
Well-known automotive writer Michelle Krebs is the senior editor and starts the new site with an article regarding the new Tundra taking on the Big 3, "Truck Wars: Toyota Challenges Detroit Loyalty"
Be sure to give it a read!
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks for all your help
You don't say how many miles are on this engine. A bad oil filter bypass valve could cause this problem, or a bad oil filter, too.
If those aren't the problem, I'd pull the main bearing caps and check the crankshaft main journals and main bearings for heavy gouges, wear or galling.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Dodge Owner in Virginia
You'll want to read the original post first, titled "Do I have a lemon?".
1. To fix the engine light problem, I only had to screw the stupid gas
tank lid tighter. Doh! I paid $70 for a mechanic to tell me that. I've
decided not to go back to him anymore. I'll take my business elsewhere.
2. To fix the engine running rough, I took Dusty's advice and went for
a tune-up at Pep Boys ($440) which wasn't a complete waste of money since I
needed to replace a few things, but it didn't help the engine run any
smoother. You would think it would have helped, but evidently the problem
was elsewhere.
3. I then took it for a diagnosis where they said my catalytic
converter needed to be replaced (55K miles). That set me back about $700,
but it took care of the engine running rough. However, I was still getting
horrible gas mileage (it went up to 7MPG from 6). I should mention that I
happened to be back at that Pep Boys for a different reason and ran into the
service department manager who credited me $100 and apologized. Very nice
gesture and much appreciated.
4. Over a year goes by with my 7 MPG limiting my driving to what's
absolutely necessary, and I'm at the Power Chevy dealership where my wife's
Equinox was getting some warranty work, and a young mechanic named Mike
Ortiz is taking down our information when I tell him about the problem I
have. He immediately made a connection - replacing the catalytic converter
at only 55K miles means it's running too rich (which I thought it was, too),
and the bad gas mileage may also be attributed to it. so he recommended I
clean the throttle body. He explained you just buy a can of throttle body
spray and spray the whole thing in there. I went to Pep Boys and was looking
around the cleaner isle for it when the service department manager comes up
and says hello. When I said what I was looking for he took me to the service
department, and gave me a free bottle. I went out to the parking lot where I
did the work myself (very easy!) and then went on a road trip that allowed
me to measure the gas mileage. I'm happy to report that I'm back above 13
MPG!
On most cars it's even easier to do than what mind. On my '99 1500 5.9L, I
had to take the air filter assembly off so I can look down the air intake at
the butterfly valve, and I sprayed all around in there. The car will take a
little time to start after you're done, but it will start. On other cars,
you don't even have to take the air filter off. Just follow the hose from
the air filter assembly, remove the far end of it, and you should see the
butterfly valve you need to spray.
5. There is no #5. This is long enough
I learned 2 important things here worth sharing, which is why I came back
1.5 years after my original post:
1. If your car is running rough, it may be a tune-up you need, but be sure to have your catalytic converter checked out.
2. If you're getting bad gas mileage, spray an entire can of throttle body cleaner down your air-intake. Mine went from 7 to over 13 MPG.
I think this forum is great, and I hope this post helps someone.
lasteston
My first suspicion is you either have an intermitent electrical connection, or more likely a bad fuel level sending unit.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks for getting back to us with the results. My apologies for not suggesting the catalytic converter as a potential problem.
Best regards,
Dusty