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what would be 41.8K in today's dollars (ouch)...or 10K less than a BASE Cayman.
Just something to keep in mind when you think about buying a "2 to 3 year old Cayman". Be *sure* it's a 2009 or newer model, since the engines are horrendously expensive to fix.
If you have had first hand Porsche experience to the contrary, sorry to hear that. Porsche is good, but by no means perfect, and the pre-2005 996 RMS issues were not handled as well as they should have been. But, if you are related to my brother in law and perhaps have an axe to grind against someone who prefers Porsche to Scion, that's not my issue to address.
I seem to recall a new Honda S2000 was still under $36,000 when they ended production for 2010. In November 2001 (2002 MY), the S2000 was at least $15-25k+ less than all of its competition of the day - SLK, Boxster S (base Boxster was only 201hp), Z3 3.0i.
In addition, the S2000 had an options list that had exactly 1 item on it: pick your color. Everything else was standard - leather interior, power roof, etc.. It was a pretty spartan car compared to a Lexus, but it delivered on true sports car performance and engineering that only the Boxster S could match at a price of $55k, reasonably equipped. Which has now grown close to $75k, similarly equipped in 2013. Even the Base Boxster today - albeit a enormously improved car compared to the 2002 base Boxster - is $60k+ with "normal" options. A base Cayman for $52k?? Are you sure you don't want a steering wheel with that, sir?
P.S. Edmund's Host, if you are watching: I recall that when I bought my 2002 S2000 in November 2001, the MSRP was $32,880 and Edmunds TMV for the DC region was $36,000, $3,200 OVER MSRP. In California, it was higher still. Perhpas you can check Edmunds archives to verify? This was 2 full years after the car was first introduced. The high demand, limited supply was still resulting in dealer premiums. I only got a discount because of an early snowfall, 10 weeks after the 9/11 terrorist attacks. By the following spring, I had offers to sell the car for more than I paid for it - back to the dealer.
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If you run it like you stole it and have a manual, it'll last about twice as long. If you put racing oil in it, you'll likely be fine as that's close to Euro standards. American oil is also far to low ppm zinc to give any level of fallback if the engine starts to wear out.
According to independent analysis, they are rated for 90% reliability at 90K miles. At a constant speed of 60mph. Yes, that means you can expect 10% of the bearings to fail by 90K miles. And if you run it faster than that, it'll wear out faster. If you run low ppm oil in it or don't change it regularly, it'll wear out faster. If you lug the engine or have an automatic, it'll also wear out faster.
The bearings are garbage and essentially need to be replaced like a timing belt at 60-70K miles to be safe.
At $2500 cost. (10 hours labor plus $900 in parts last I checked, plus tax.) Quite a steep "service item". To top it all off, they look at you like you are daft if you question this logic. I mean, the first 15K mile service cost a mere $500 (a couple of rounds of golf), so why are you complaining about a $2500 bearing change every 4 or 5 years?
You have to love Porsche dealers...
But buying new or CPO, yeah, get a 2009 or newer.
All of that said, though, I dearly miss the S2000. They really need to make a replacement version of it. Maybe a little more bling and a hard top as well. I'd still rather have a S2000 versus a Cayman.
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Just one of several good reasons to just say no to water cooled Porsches IMHO...
So if porsche is aware of the problem why haven't they helped owners out like Acura had done with the Snap Ring on the NSX?
The nice thing about the IMS issue is you can get an older Boxster for pennies, do the upgrade and end up with a really fine sports car for cheap.
Ive been toying with the idea of doing this just to keep the miles off my 911.
I'm not too sure if this is really case or that the attitude has changed to have this happen. MB build theirs to last look at the W126 series S class. They are tanks, well build and have lasted. But of course this meant people weren't trading in their S class's as often and MB wasn't selling the cars they wanted.
In regards to the Boxster, this is why I have been looking at them. One can get a 2005-07 at a good price. Spent 2500 for the replacement of the IMS and have a car that will last a while...
We are supposed to buy new from the dealer, drive for 3 or 4 years, then trade in on another new one.
I concur. I'd even throw the Japanese Lux brands into that mix. They certainly don't want the shadetree mechanic messing with the car.
I know I used to do my own tuneups (now, you just change the plugs), oil changes (if you can find the oil filler tube, today), and brake jobs on all of my cars.
It's too much of a hassle, now. Many times, it takes specialized tools.
They like turning their inventory over new, and 4 years as used, "Dealer Maintained" cars, while you sign the dotted line for a new one.
Personally, I'm not that brand loyal. I think the only model I've owned more than once would be an Acura TL and BMW 3 series.
All the people I've known that have owned Porsches (3 of them) swear by their reliability and robust build. Can't disagree with them as they seem to stick with Porsches once it's time for a new one.
Today's cars are extremely complex. I have a thought in the back of my mind that I might buy the lease out on my 2011 328xi. If I do so, I'd like to be prepared. So I went & bought some Mobil 1 0W-40, a Mann Filter, & an oil filter wrench. I looked up how to change the oil on an E90 & found plenty of posts & how to videos. Then I get ready, drive my car up on to a 2 x 4 so I can get a look see. And there is a metal plate covering the underside of my engine to get to the oil drain plug. In order to get to it, I'm going to have to now find a way to raise the car. Dealers charge a lot of money to repair & maintain European cars. I really don't know how much less expensive using an independent shop would be. They still have to pay competent mechanics a good wage, pay over head, plus parts.
Regarding Porsches. My Mom has had her 2011 Cayenne V6 for almost 2 years. She's racked up over 40K miles already & loves it. Maintenance costs are through the roof though (they wanted 300+ to rotate the tires & another $300+ for an alignment). So much so that she has the maintenance done at our local BMW Dealer.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
That said, doing it yourself, unless you have a garage, a lift, specialty tools, etc can prove to be more costly given how the German marques are engineered. I don't know if it's better, or worse. It is more costly, though (as you give a good example of with your foray into changing your own oil).
I have an independent guy who's made a good living servicing German cars for the last couple of decades. He has so much business because of the outrageous dealership charges, you have to book him no less than a week in advance...even for a simple oil change.
On my 335i, I had him change the oil in-between the "scheduled" free oil changes from BMW. BMW gives a basic oil change for $70-$80. My mechanic charges 1/2 that. But, he also doesn't give me loaner car, doesn't have cappuccino in his waiting room, nor any flat screen TVs to watch while you wait. He does have a little greasy tube TV that looks like a relic from a Walmart Black Friday Special, circa 1985.
I haven't turned a wrench on any car for quite some time. Whereas, 15 years ago, I could do a complete tear down of a small block, by myself, in an afternoon.
as to service, if I ever do get an older BMW, there is a very highly regarded indy shop about 3 miles from my house. They are factory trained, very experienced, and supposedly reasonable cost (about what you would pay for any reputable repair shop, and way cheaper than a dealer).
they only work on BMW and MB (well, they added Mini now). So I am sure they know what they are looking for before you even show up (all the common failures and gotchas).
having them nearby makes me a lot less leery of buying say an E46, and that is where I would go for a PPI.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
You may find yourself still needing the help of a mechanic after you got the tools and electronic gadget. While it's good to read up and learn the work that might be needed on your car, so you won't get ripped, it's better to let the mechanic do the job because he has more experience than you on the brand (as your post seemed to convey).
In my younger days I often thought why can't such mechanically superior European cars be available to everyone to appreciate? Now I see the reason -- repairs and maintenance. The car makers have made their cars affordable to many, but the R & M cost is a reason why some people would take the lease and dump the car when done.
It would be wise to shop for a garage that service your BMW. My cars maintained at dealership because the garage guys I used aren't cheaper and not better either. Don't take recommendations for granted, and always price out at dealers and garage both for every job and read the forums for advice. Dealers won't say "let's try this and see", but some garage does, and that could be their ways to milk you out of thousands per try until nothing gets done and you wised up.
Good Luck.
The free maintence thing is laughable as an advantage. I'll buy my own wiper blades for 20 bux to save thousands any day.
Now only if my Infiniti and the winter gas were on the same page - city mileage has now gone closer to 10 then 20
When the tires were shot and needed to be replaced on my Mom's Cayenne, I bought them from a Good Year place for $189 each including mounting and balancing (it was cheaper than tire rack & you don't even want to know what the dealer wanted to charge). While the car was there, they checked the alignment & noticed it was way off, so I had them align the car for $59.99 + tax.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
It is nice to get a loaner car when the car goes in for service. I do have my Prelude as my extra car or if worse comes to worse, I can probably rent a cheap car from enterprise for the day and still make out cheaper than bringing it to certain dealers.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Not sure I follow you. In my comparative shopping of a new 2014 Cayman S vs. 2013 BMW M3, it looks like that in addition to a roughly $14k difference in actual purchase price between the two, the 4/50 free maintenance from BMW would cost roughly $3,500 on the Porsche (40k miles is a big one) using the dealer. If I need new brakes during that time, add another $1,500+ BMW advantage. So that "free" maintenance on an M3 really adds at least $2-3k in favor of BMW to the M3 vs. Cayman S, even assuming I go independent on the Cayman service.
As for Infiniti, that was a real joke between a friend of mine here several years ago. I had a 1995 Maxima, he had a 1996 I30. Exactly the same car mechanically, other than mine was a manual, his an automatic. I spent less at the Nissan dealer on service over 8 years and 120k miles than he spent in 7 years and 60k miles. Take Nissan prices for just about everything, multiply them by 1.5 or 2.0 and call them Infiniti prices. And then come up with a bunch of crap that the Infinii "needs", but the Nissan service manager never called for. Hopefully, your dealer experience is a little better than that.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The latest sham is "cracked engine mounts". Chevy Chase Acura has told us that we need them replaced on both our MDX and TL. Local independent pointed out that the hard rubber mounts always get cosmetic surface cracks after a few years and it has no impact on structural integrity. Based upon our experience, Chevy Chase Acura is slightly above Bernie Madoff on the integrity scale, so if it's not warranty work that Acura covers 100%, we will never go there again.
Unfortunately, part of the problem where we live is "dumb money" owners that will take their cars to places like Chevy Chase Acura for service, get screwed with excessive charges for suspicious work, and talk about how nice the car wash and vacuum job was. Without realizing that their wallet was vacuumed as well. Final example. Our MDX had a loose hatch latch that caused it to rattle. When in for routine oil change, they quoted my wife $300 to fix it saying it would take 2-3 hours. Another woman in the waiting area had same exact problem. She told them "sure" to the repair; my wife said no thanks. Brought the car home and in about 8 minutes flat, armed only with a Phillips screwdriver, I undid the plastic cover around the hinge, found the loose screw that had fallen out of the hinge and replaced it - with a lock washer, this time. I washed my hands, we went out to a nice 2 hour dinner with a bottle of wine and came back $175 ahead.
Sorry for the Chevy Chase Acura digression, but for anyone in the DC area, be forewarned.
The Nissan Infiniti statement is funny, wouldn't a good friend tell his buddy - you have a maxima (i30) take it to the Nissan dealer for those oil changes. The upselling in service is not limited to luxury cars btw.
Unfortunately, my friend with the Infiniti lived in Virginia and his closest Nissan dealer was a bit of a crook, as well. My Nissan dealer in Maryland - or perhaps just the "red team" service manager I was assigned to when I bought my car - was very honorable and reasonably priced. Unfortunately, dealership changed ownership and he retired a few years ago, so that's no longer the case.
You are right again about upselling service not being limited to luxury cars. A couple of years ago, the local TV station did an undercover sting and caught the VW dealer charging for additional services that were not only unnecessary, but they didn't actually perform. Idiots tried to charge one elderly customer for an air conditioning recharging service on an older car that didn't have A/C.
I was driving to Orange County, CA to do some repeated consulting and my '05 TL started developing a power steering noise. I took it into a local Acura dealer where I had never been, figuring I would be out a few hundred $$ to get it fixed.
I was SHOCKED that this was, by far, the best dealer service experience I have ever had. They writer was very nice, and he wanted the mechanic to hear the noise, so he had him ride along with me in my car (!!!). Then I got a ride to work. At the end of the day, I went to pick up the car and they fixed it FREE! They implied an o-ring might not have been installed correctly, so no charge! And they also torqued some bolts in the suspension to see if that would eliminate a creak I had. Top it off with a car wash, all at no cost.
They could have easily taken me for a ride, and I wasn't even a local customer. Tustin Acura in CA.
No, over 100K on the car.
Several years ago, my Mother had a Cadillac STS that was under warranty, and at the time, the selling dealer was really taking her for a "stooge". She got me involved and I started questioning everything they charged her for that was supposed to be warranty work. As I started to find more and more malfeasance with this particular dealer, I decided to file lemon law on behalf of my Mother. Long and short of it, after many fights (since the Caddy dealer tried to deny they charged for work that should have been taken care of under warranty), GM agreed to buy the car back.
I swore I'd never buy a Cadillac for as long as I lived (and have stuck to that promise). Cadillac lost two customers (probably more given my negative word of mouth) over one dealership's service dept.
I concur with the "dumb money" theories -- dealers will overcharge as much as they can. Once out of warranty, I go to independents who may specialize in certain types of cars as they are usually ex-dealer folks who go out on their own.
One time an advisor ignored the alignment request because he said my car didn't need it, and the shaft can only be aligned so many times. Didn't know how true that was.
Tire rotation is a must and it should be front and back rotate on normal tires, but left and right switch for staggered. But go to the garage or gas station garage that has the right size and "star" tools for your car!
My preference is to cultivate a relationship with my advisor and head tech at the dealership and not have to try a garage after warranty is over and redo the same service at the dealers.
Don't think that works for most cars. Virtually every vehicle I've owned or shopped that has staggered wheel sizes also has "unidirectional" tires with an inside and outside. Meaning that all four corners are unique and they cannot be rotated. If you try to put a left front on the right front you will either end up having the outside sidewall facing the inside or the tire will be rotating the opposite direction intended. Not sure what happens if you put a unidirectional tire on backwards (i.e. rolling in opposite direction intended) but don't think I want to find out on a new Porsche or BMW. If the tires are not unidirectional, no problem, but that's the exception based upon the cars I know that have staggered wheel sizes (i.e. usually higher performance models).
So hows the 911 or Cayman shopping? Was at the LA Auto show, very much liked what Porsche has done to the Cayman and Boxster, but have a hard time justifying the price for a new one. Currently I only drive my personal car roughly 5-6K/YR, can't get into paying $850/m lease on a new Boxster S.
On the tire thing, I think on 50/50 balanced RWD cars like the 330i, the tires naturally wear pretty evenly. It's on FWD cars with 60%+ of the weight on the fronts and the fronts doing both the steering and the driving that they wear considerably faster than the rears. Maybe my TL should have reverse staggering?
It's all going to be history! Nice cars still appeal to me, but it's like vegans appreciating farm animals. I'm opting for a no fuss no muss use-and-toss car that is decent to drive and no batch concerns. Working on finding such wonder car at the moment.
Good driving, good fun and good luck to all of you who desire or drive European cars or performance cars.