Mercedes 300D Suggestions

Mr_Shiftright

LOL! Well there is that! YOu can also just apply the graphite to the key and insert it a couple of times. A little goes a long way. And since you're going to get your fingertips dirty anyway, might as well do ALL the locks in the car.

fyrman

mr.shifty i have a 85 300sd the power steering seems to work fine turning left bu has much less power assist turning right, i have changed the filter and fluid, any suggestions?

Mr_Shiftright

Have you snugged up the power steering belt? If so and nothing changes, you may have a problem with the valving in the hydraulic ram. I'll have to think about that, and why this would happen one way but not the other. My memories of how that system works are a big dim...I seem to recall that a valve can move one way or the other depending on where the fluid has to go to make the "push".

fyrman

one more for the guru, when replacing the lower oil cooler line do i have to jack the engine ?or is it possible to r/rwithe the engine in place? thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

you mean the transmission cooler line?

fyrman

No sir Mr.Shiftright its the hose that goes from the oil filter housing to the lower port of the oil cooler adjacent the radiator. I also have read tha this agood time to replace motor mounts and the eng shocks , i dont mind diong what it needs but im the new owner of this old car and it seems tha it has been well maintained the motor mounts and eng shock have certainly been replaced but i dont know when id hate to jack the eng if i dont have to it looks like the line comes off easik=ly enough but as always im sure looks are deceiving thanks fyrman

Mr_Shiftright

I see. I couldn't say; unfortunately I sold my 3 book set of factory manuals for the 300D when I sold the car. That's the place to look for such procedures. I can't imagine that taking that line off would require any drastic action.

qdelaborie

Hi there, im new to this forum! I have been driving my friend's 300D 3.0 Diesel, roughly from 86/87. Shes done over 500.000 Km and still running, just about lol. When idel, the engine does a sort of clonk noise every other second, of course this isnt the case when you apply the gas. seems to pull well on flatish roads, as soon as steep hills arrive its into 2nd and flooring it. the other thing that worries me is when the car is idle, if you turn the wheels either way, its makes an unberable eeek noice, sounds like metal grinding,but then i cant see anythin abstructing the wheel arches! any ideas?

240downer

240downer

Do you have any experience with putting a manual transmission in a 300TD? I have an opportunity to purchase a 1982 300TD is excellent condition (new engine with 10K miles) and would prefer a manual transmission.
My 240D just ate a piston and I thought it would be nice to have a bit more power that the 300 would provide.
Will the 240 flywheel and bell housing fit on the 300? Are there any problems with transmission mounts or linkage? Any problems with the cruise control? Would the drive shaft have to be changed (shortened or lengthened?)

The other possability would be to put a 300D engine in my 240 but this might be a bigger can of worms than I want to deal with. Any thoughts on either of these projects?
I used to be an aircraft mechanic and also ran a fleet of 40 vehicles so I'm not afraid to tackle something out of the ordinary. Thank you.
240downer

Mr_Shiftright

I think you'd be disappointed in the result if you tried to install a manual transmission. I did this in a Saab turbo and it was worth it in that car, but a diesel really works best with an automatic transmission if you think about it---it's a low RPM motor with a power band below 4,000 RPM. So with a manual transmission, you get the best performance by short-shifting! And so what's the point?

I think the way I'd go is install another 240D engine and turbocharge it or just go buy a 300SD. They are cheap enough.

brakeengr

I am having trouble turning the ignition key- and it's not a key lubrication or putting powder graphite issue.
I have to jiggle the key in/ out, and find just the right "sweet spot" for the key to turn and engine to crank. It's getting more and more difficult now in finding that sweet spot.
The ignition tumbler itslef sems a bit loose- I can press it with my fingers (without key in it), and there is movement in it.
I am thinking if I am able to access the ignition lock mechanism and be able to tighten the tumbler, it should fix the problem- am I on the right track?
I could not find any obvious way to get the ignition tumbler out or tighten it- anybody know how to do it, and how difficult it is?
Thanks-

Mr_Shiftright

I think you have to drill out the screws holding the ignition lock if I recall correctly. Probably the lock is just plain wore out...or....are you using a factory key or one cut by a key shop? I had to have about ten keys cut before I got one to work properly in my 300D. If you HAVE a factory key and this is happening, then I think the lock is shot. If it's a substitute key, that could be the problem. If BENZ sells blanks, I'd buy one and have a key cut on that.

brakeengr

I am using the original factory key.
Where are the screws you talk about? I don't see any visible screws on the lock- Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

I mean when you remove the bottom panel, the bolts that secure the lock to the steering post. I really don't know if you can just "fish out" the cylinder from the lock. Can't remember, but don't know if that would do you any good. I think the tumblers are just worn out and are jamming or sticking. sometimes burrs of metal get in there.

brakeengr

ok- i'll remove the bottom panel and see what's there.
I was looking on ebay, and there seem to be 2 items related to this- tumbler- which is more expensive- selling for $100 used, OR ignition switch- new for $30.
I suppose I will need the full assembly with tumbler? I am leary of getting a used one; i'll try to find a new assy.
Thanks-

92tdiesel

Hey everyone,

First question: I'm just a poor college student and need to put new tires on my 300D. I'm realizing now that I actually have 205/65/15 on the car when the manual reccomends 195s. My mechanic installed these years ago and they seem to be fine. I'm looking at getting new tires, and have some guy offering me 4 %80 Tread Kuhmos on C-Class rims for $150. The bolt pattern matches and the tires are very nice. Problem is: they are 55's (5.5 inch wide tires on 5.5 inch wide rims) meaning they're 1 inch narrower than my present wheels. Can anyone foresee huge problems aside from the fronts possibly wearing down on the edges prematurely?

Second Question:
Every now and again, my tachometer dies out and the ABS light comes on. When I try to touch the brakes with this happening, I have a few degrees of play before the brakes actually engage (in fact they just lurch on). This problem only lasts for a few seconds and clears up on it's own. What's completely beyond me is: why would the tachometer and the ABS go haywire at the same time? I see no apparent connection between these two systems! Car has 240,000 miles and just received a new transmission if any of this points me in an apparent direction.

Thanks for any help you might be able to provide.

92tdiesel

I checked out the wheels tonight. The gentleman apparenlty works for a rental company, and he found these in a closet after someone had moved out. The bolt pattern matches up, as I mentioned in my past post, but my lug bolt is too long. The rims, from what I can tell, are off of a CLK (http://www.autoguide.net/apf/mercedes-wheels_rims/item-zob34820f19.html) they look just like the ones in this ad. Can I purchase shorter lug bolts??? They fit perfectly and are in fact the same width and height... he's asking $150 for the set of four with two pairs of Eagle Goodyear RSA and two all weather Kuhmos. These deal is almost too good to be true, but I just think that he doesn't know what it is that he's dealing with.

Everything matches except the lug bolt... should I go through with this deal and try to find the right lugs???" Thanks for any help, everyone! If this works I'll post up some pictures of the finished product and any resources I've found that have been helpful.

greasygas

Thanks for the tip about using a battery to preheat ..I may need that one someday ! By the way all In germany these cars turn the odometers over regularly .I always asked the taxi drivers thats all they drive ..many own their own cars.
Of course things like water pumps starters heatercores front ends wear out and need repairs.. pehaps too the automatic tranny but the iron block and head of german diesels are proven to be bullet proof ..tiiming chains wear out as do the tensioners ...of course the oil must be changed regular, etc.
I finally got my hands on an 85 sd 300 it is 10 thou short of 300,000 miles and I have no reservations about driving her home to canada !
its going to be my winter beater for the next few years.I hope I just need to get it home across 8 states and 2 provinces ! then I can baby it. The parts are still avail for these cars and overall reasonable ..some parts for the 81 to 85 years are a wee bit more. So go ahead and spend 40 50 or 60 grand on a mew car if thats your bag im getting off on wearing out the old ones incl.. my 390,000 vw golf.
By the way Hi every one I see this is an active forum and I look forward to talking more about these panzers ..seems like they are also good candidates for home brewed bio fuel as well ??
thanks again ! greasy

Mr_Shiftright

I think what makes the 300Ds so long-lived is their excellent build quality--people invest in them and keep them going for many miles because the bodies, trim and upholstery do not fall apart as they do in many modern cars. One is more inclined to put a new motor in a car that still looks great after 25 years than something with peeling paint, missing door handles and a thousand rattles.

Probably what is killing off the old 300ds is a lack of maintenance, as they fall into the hands of people unable financially, or unwilling in general to take care of them as the German builders intended. The engines don't get their valves adjusted and so they burn; little attention is paid to fuel purity; injectors are never cleaned, coolant never changed---and so the problems begin.

Also these old diesels do NOT like high rpms...some Americans drive them as if they were gas engines, but in the 300D the surest way to damage them is very high speed constant cruising. They are happiest in the 3,000 range up to maybe 4,500 rpm maximum. 80 miles an hour is plenty for them, any more and you are tempting a cracked cylinder head.

The bottom ends are indestructible. You have to be a really professional annihilator of things to throw a rod in a 300D car.

rangner

Hello all,

I've been considering getting a w201 190 diesel for some time now, but having never sat in one, I don't know if I'd fit or not.

I'm about 6'3" and I currently drive a 2000 subaru outback which is enough room for me. I've driven a toyota corolla for a long trip and I can say I won't do that again.

Where does the 190 fall in that size range? I walked past one the other day and it looked tight in there--could have been just the way they had the seat adjusted.

Also, as far as engine choices, I figured the 2.2 n/a four cylinder to be a dog but I'm not able to decide between the n/a 2.5 five or the turbo five. I want decent power and good fuel economy. What do you all recommend?

Thanks,

Eric

Mr_Shiftright

Definitely the turbo 5 if you are driving on modern freeways at all. If you are putting around the flatlands on country roads, then the others would be fine. In altitude, you simply must have the diesel. I actually had my n/a 300D literally refuse to move at around 10,000 feet up a steep incline. It didn't have enough power left to overcome inertia! I had to go up in reverse until it leveled out a bit, then whipped around, threw it in low, floored it and eventually got up enough momentum to crawl up the rest of the way. Never again. Even at 8,000 feet in Colorado it was a real dog.

rangner

Hehe...sounds like that was an experience you won't want to repeat! :sick:

How about leg room in the 190? Am I going to be munching on my knees or will it be ok?

Eric

fintail

I'm 6'1" and I drive a W202 C-class...I fit in it just fine. It was a bit of an adjustment from my old W126 (where I had a bit of room on each side of the seat, it was like a big recliner), but I have no problems. MB tends to make cars for larger drivers, both big in height and otherwise.

burdawg

It's your business, but my opinion has always been that 190's are really cheap and don't hold up like other MB models. Most of them I see are in poor condition. People I talk to that own them or have owned them don't typically have anything good to say about it....

rangner

Really? I had read that it was one of the last MB's built with the idea of cost being no object. I beleive they retailed in the 80's in the $30,000 range. Here's a website from a guy who loves em

link title

What would you recommend other than the 190D for a diesel car that gets 30-35 mpg?

burdawg

Well, like I said it's just my opinion. It may be that I'm just noticing the dogs out there.
As with any other brand the maintenance and willingness to do upkeep is more important than the man on the streets experience. Probably the lack of maintenance can account for the large majority of automotive failures and problems today, and most likely it's been the same for a long time.
I've heard that Volkswagon diesels are real good, but don't have any firsthand knowledge myself. I don't really care to own one myself.

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe you're thinking of the 190 2.3 sedans. Those were pretty awful.

fintail

Yeah, I don't think W201s are bad per se, but keep away from those 4 bangers, and the diesel must accelerate like it is chained to a house. It's very much an old school MB.

There are lots of ratty 190s out there, as these cars receive less care than probably any other MB model...they are looking old now, and not in a good way. I've noticed many more ratty W124s lately, too.

timingchain

I'm in the process of replacing my guide rod and everything is off but the guide rod (ball joint-like thing) is seized in the mount pod and I cannot turn it. I need to lower the control arm to get enough clearance to spin off the entire assembly, but I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I'm not sure about the spring or shock absorber releasing. How should I go about that?? Thank you so much, and this is an '82 300SD.

timingchain

Update: the guide rod is out. Shock and upper ball joint unbolted with a floor jack under the control arm, and I was able to push things around enough to turn the assembly freely. So I solved my own problem, but thanks to all for posting here, I've gotten lots of info in the past.

brillanze

How do I tell if the brake caliper on the 300SD (1983) is a bendix or ATE??

76dieselman

I just found out that the York Compressor on my 76 300d has its own oil sump system to keep it lubricated. How do I drain/add/check the oil on this unit? And what kind of oil do i use? I have had difficulty finding info about it online.

burdawg

The oil is added when it's charged with freon. There's really no way to check it or drain it without completely evacuating and recharging the system.
If it's working normally there's no need to do anything.

otm646

my domestic is about to kick the bucket this upcomign winter so i was looking into a 300D as a next vehicle. i ahve always been in love with the looks and clatter of this car but before my heart sweeps me into a rash decison i decided i'd ask.

what are the major points that fail/need to look for to insure i dont procure a lemon.

while i am rather technicaly inclined some basic info on what i can expect would be helpfull

miles between turbo rebuild

transmission life

rust thru locations

any other info you deem important.

hopefully my 300D and its SVO conversion will join the board soon.

rangner

Hello all!

Well I've found an exceptionally well maintained 190dt that I plan on buying soon. The only issue is that the odometer stopped about 50 to 60k miles ago according to the seller. Given its exceptional condition, I have no doubt that the stated mileage is true. What I want to know is, how much would it typically cost to get this repaired?

Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Probably a couple hundred bucks. What's a 190 dt? Haven't heard of that one. Do you mean a 2.5 turbo diesel from the late 80s?

fintail

I am not familiar with a turbo 190 diesel either, although it would have been a good idea

rangner

Yes, in fact they made only limited quantities and only in '87.

I've never driven one but plan to take a look at it soon. I believe it put out ~125hp and 167 lb-ft of torque and netted low 30's for fuel economy. Should be a hoot!

If I do get this I was thinking of swapping the LSD from the 190E 16v for more spirited driving.--We'll see.

fintail

Cool. If the car is nice and reasonably priced, go for it. MB diesels are relatively sought after right now, and a really rare one like that would be pretty cool.

rangner

Well I bought it. It drives like a dream! Here's a couple pictures of it:

fintail

Looks to be in really nice shape. Now for those mods...

burdawg

That's a model that was sold in Europe, right? Those look like European spec bumpers to me. Anyway it looks good. So much for my "190's are usually dogs" theory.

rangner

Yeah I think so and in larger numbers. I don't know the production numbers offhand but I believe it was imported to the US in smaller numbers in '87.

I'm pretty sure it's not gray market.

rangner

I was thinking since my 190 shares alot of the same parts with the 300D's you might know where to buy parts such as oil filters, fuel filters etc.?

Any good online suppliers of OEM stuff?

Mr_Shiftright

You should really buy those items from the dealer I think--they are good quality and they FIT first time every time. It's not worth saving $5 on a filter for some off brand or even a good brand that might not fit just right.

ewvdt

My trusty old 1984 MBZ wagon (now only 169,000 miles) has had a peculiar problem with the "ignition" switch since the day I bought it 3 years ago. After starting the car I always have to back up the switch just a bit (about 1/8 of an inch)in order to get power to the heat/cooling fan. I can then hear the relay kick in.
Does this mean that the switch itself needs to be replaced or can this be repaired a simpler way?
How difficult a job is it to change the electrical part of the switch?
Great website, by the way!

92tdiesel

Yeah.. get rid of that Chrysler, Ford, or GM.

It really depends upon what year 300D you look into purchasing. I have a '92... I'ld look into a w123, not a w124 (I have a w124). The main things that happen to my model year are:

-HORRIBLE vacuum system
-Air Conditioner Condensor will not work after about 1,423 miles (exageration, but yeah, they never last)
-Those are really the only two major problems.

Turbo Rebuild
-??? Mine has 240K, no rebuild

Transmission life:
-Got 225K out of this one, and had it rebuilt because it started slipping. Only after $2100 was dropped towards a rebuild, I noticed a major leak at the front of both coolant lines. I'm now wondering if this needed to be done at all.

Rust
-W124s rarely rust. I have one small bubble above the rear window. This looks like a fluke, isolated only to my car. The w123/w126s will go along rocker panels, above door trim, under headlights, wheel wells, around the back window, etc. Keep them indoors when not driving, and take care of the paint.

Any other:
The top end of my engine is quite different (as I understand) from most 300Ds previous to it. My mechanic always took care of my 300SD (over 400K with same engine and tranny) and he was deathly afraid to touch the top end on this one. Good luck trying to find someone to deal with this injection/head.

Also, my model is attrocious in the snow. It's the snow death-sled, and I live in Rochester, NY, so I'm screwed. Get some major winter treads on that sucker (if you look at a w124), put some weight in the trunk, and wish for the best! My w126 was unbeleivable in the snow (would wallop my 740 Volvo), so I imagine the 123 was pretty decent as well.

Basically, in sum, unless you're going to cry about a few spots of rust, go for a w123 300D!

92tdiesel

Hey Guys,

I guess I could read the manual for this, but perhaps you guys might know of something that works better. As I mentioned in my other post, I'm leaking a good amount of transmission fluid. The lines are over $120 to replace, and with my leaking of every other fluid on the car, it really doesn't make too much of a difference to me to stop this leak. I've been using Mercon 5... any other recommendations? It's a '92 automatic 4 Speed.

ANY 300D's in Rochester, NY???? I'm an RIT student from NJ (MB Diesels everywhere there) and haven't found more than 3 other 300D/SDs in the Upstate!

Thanks, everyone!

brakeengr

Your post was interesting. I also do not have heat in my 1982 300D- used to work fine but not since the last year. After reading your post, I backed up on the ignition also after starting the car, and lo and behold- the heat came on!!
But- I lost the tach, fuel gage, oil gage and temp. gage. Car kept running fine. Speedo was ok.
Does anybody know if these things are correlated? Will a new ignition switch solve the problem (BTW, I have to jiggle the key also to turn it to start the ignition).

And how difficult is it to replace the switch? www.performanceproducts.com gives a nice breakout of the related parts- there is a ignition switch with key, as well as an electrical component.

Any help on this will be appreciated!
In the worst case- does it harm anything if I back off on the ignition to get the heat? Even though I lose the temp and oil gages, is the actual engine temp and oil pressure still OK in the engine?