Mercedes 300D Suggestions

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  • matty4matty4 Member Posts: 10
    Its been raining a lot these apst few days. So much so that the river beside my car at my grandparents house decided to flood, and I apparantly got water inside the paddenger compt. Suggestionjs?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You have to pull up all the carpets and air out the padding underneath. That's the only way. Tedious job but you'll find plenty of spare change and be able to give the car a good clean up.
  • 76dieselman76dieselman Member Posts: 4
    Well I think My injectors are shot. The car hasent been run in a few years. I misted into the intake some diesel and the engine started to catch, but there wasent enough fuel to keep it going. I am getting fuel up through the metal injector lines. I have 4 spare nozzels and 4 complete injectors. Im going to be opening the old ones up and see whats going on. Hopefully this will solve my problem.
  • dpotter1dpotter1 Member Posts: 15
    The other day I was surfing the internet and came across a web site that had an after market glow plug relay swith that came with every thing needed to install it.
    it stated that the after market part would speed the heating process up by 70-75% and that it would elimanate the common problem of one glow plug going bad causeing the others not to work properly.
    unfourtunitly I didnt write down the web site or the company so i was wondering if anyone knew were I could purchase one.
    thanks. :D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    was that www.mercedesshop.com?

    (just going from memory here).
  • dpotter1dpotter1 Member Posts: 15
    no that wasnt it
    thanks for the thought
  • dpotter1dpotter1 Member Posts: 15
    have you ever heard of such a thing
  • epicyclesepicycles Member Posts: 7
    may have been Bosch Fast Glow Kit for Diesel Cars, part number 250 201 953
    reasonably common, here's one site http://store.autopartsliquidations.biz/0250201953.html
    Fitted my non turbo 300D. Kit has relay and 4 plugs, I needed a 5th plug.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hey that might be it. Thanks for posting that! Let's see if that works for him.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    I just replaced all 4 shocks on my 300D- Bilsteins- great ride and handling now.
    I had a question- do I need to do a wheel alignment now?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nope---and a good choice of shocks you made there...pay a little more, get a LOT more performance and durability.
  • dpotter1dpotter1 Member Posts: 15
    thats awesome thanks
    i have one more question:
    can i replace the loop style glow plugs in my 79 300d with the pin type?
    that part calls for the pin type
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Never tried that, I really don't know. I'd have to see them side by side to guess.
  • epicyclesepicycles Member Posts: 7
    they are probably different thread sizes (old 12mm new 10mm). There are apparently new pin type available with old thread size.
    This thread has discussion and some part numbers
    http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=28651
    This link has a good description of wiring change, but unfortunately left out the part numbers
    http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieselloopglowplugrepair.htm
  • epicyclesepicycles Member Posts: 7
    also
    http://dieselgiant.com/diesel_parts_for_sale.htm
    look for retrofit on the page.
  • dpotter1dpotter1 Member Posts: 15
    thanks that is exactly what I needed
    you guys are AWESOME
  • matty4matty4 Member Posts: 10
    Hi. My inside driver door handle is kind of saggy and loose but it has been working. But I finally wore out the latch, and my door hardly shuts firmly unless I slam it about 4 or 5 times. What parts do I need to purchase? Thank you so much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you tried adjusting the striker plate? (the part that screws into the B pillar, not the door part.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    Thanks!
    Yep- I looked at other shocks, but went with the Bilsteins- really love them. Also, replaced the rear sway bar links while at it, and the car drives as tight and smooth as can be-
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Boge are also okay for this car.
  • scruff12scruff12 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at purchasing a 1987 Mercedes 300D. The guy is asking $4500, which seems very high to me. I've looked online and found private party values from $1200-$2800. It has 247000 miles on it. The AC doesn't work right, and he's going to get it recharged/fixed Monday, so I assume it will be working by the time I make the purchase.

    Just wondering about gas mileage on this since it's a diesel. I'm guessing 50-60 MPG, but not sure, and cannot confirm it anywhere.

    Is this a good car? Any things I should check for? What is this car actually worth, in good condition? It has a crack in the plastic on one of the front lights, but that is all I noticed in terms of defects. Thanks for any help!
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Quick response is mpg is much lower than 50-60. It's maybe 25-30. That's a very old car. Net of potential repairs you might be better off w/a new Honda civic.
  • manleymanmanleyman Member Posts: 1
    I have 2 of these although mine are turbo diesels. They are excellent and one has now reached 400,000 miles and runs as new. The economy is excellent as you guessed despite the other reply. I have nothing but good things to say about these well made cars.
  • waxuraswaxuras Member Posts: 11
    To adjust the valves on a 85 300dt?

    My local mechanic says it needs done as it idles rough sometimes. Should I let him do it or is it something easily done?

    How much is the adverage cost for this job?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It does require a special tool, which you can buy. It's not hard to do, expect the part about rotating the engine (remote starter?).

    It should be done, or at least checked, every 30,000 miles and it is very important.

    Labor should be about one hour.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Let's not beat around the bush. What is your mpg in #s.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Quick follow up. I searched the net and the 300d gets about 23-28 mpg. Hope this helps.
  • zadamszadams Member Posts: 11
    Easily done. Valve cover is four or five nuts. Possibly eleven mm from my vague recollection; deep socket or you'll need an extension arm. New gasket helps if you’ve seen a bit of oil around the seams (the shape is a bit difficult, make sure it is on properly). You have to remove some of the throttle components and a sensor , and keep track of what went where obviously (most are snap ball and socket fittings)(if you have vacuum components on the valve cover, then def. do not cut hoses and remember what was done!!!!!). You may also need to remove high pressure lines to the injectors, but not necessarily. Just don't bend them. Feeler gauges will get you the proper adjustment for sure (so you need to go get them if you don't have em', not expensive), assuming you can find the proper gap distance in the manual. If you can’t find it, write again. You'll need an open face wrench and a socket to adjust the valves, pref. something with torque measurement on it. The valve position is secured with two nuts on top of each other, so the bottom one is held into position, and the top is torqued down to hold it (check manual for torque spec.) Manual will also tell you what position you should measure from (rocker is shaped like an oval and I believe you need to measure at it's peak against the valve), and which valves are exhaust or intake (they have dif. gapping). Again, write if you have trouble. Need to rotate the shaft with a large socket on the nut on the flywheel, and in the right direction (again, the manual) to get each rocker into position. Once you have it there, check with gauges first to make sure gapping is okay, if not then adjust. Having two people helps and you don't need a remote start tool unless you find it easier than manually turning flywheel or you're alone. Feeler gauge should pull and push in between rocker and valve with some resistance. If it slides in and out easily, they are too loose. After one, you’ll get the feel and the whole process will not take more than two hours. Not worth the $250-$400, especially if you want to know how to perform a semi-routine maintenance procedure. Still idles rough? Change air and oil filter(s) if they are old. if it still idles rough, you prob didn't adjust the valves right or tighten/torque the top lock nut correctly. Do the proceedure over. You should notice a smoother idle, especially if the gapping was way off initially. Post again if needed. Good luck.



    Zak Adams

    Converted 1985 300 D(t)

    183,000 miles

    5,000 on veg oil
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The tool you need is like a long crow's--foot....it's a heavy metal foot, shaped like the letter "C", about 4" high. A socket won't work as you need to slip under the cam.

    I agree, it's something worth learning to do, and the tool doesn't cost that much. You'll also need directions from a manual and a feeler gauge and a remote starter or a large socket and breaker bar to rotate the engine (better than a remote starter---better yet, use both methods together, being sure of course not to rotate the engine electrically with the crank socket wrench installed).
  • steveo8steveo8 Member Posts: 16
    I get exhaust fumes in the cabin when I give the engine a little gas. Not visual smoke, just strong exhaust fumes. It is consistent with the point at which the turbo kicks in. If I'm driving real easy, I don't get the fumes, but will get fumes basically whenever the turbo kicks in. No fumes at higher RPM's, as when driving down the freeway.

    Any ideas as to the problem, and as to how to troubleshoot and fix?

    Thanks in advance!

    Steveo8
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    1st thing I'd check is for an oil leak onto a hot exhaust pipe---this should be easy to spot; after that, I'd check for a leaking PCV hose on top of the valve cover. Old diesels tend to have a lot of blow-by and if your PCV pipe is cracked, the blow by fumes will escape.

    If none of that shows up, then you have to check for an exhaust leak, which may require putting the car on a lift while it's running.
  • lydia2lydia2 Member Posts: 18
    Can you help me? Have a 1983 300D. Intermittent signal lights and hazard light.....now none work. Fuses good. Ordering a new hazard light. But I want to know where the grounding is on this car. My book "disappeared" somewhere. I am thinking the grounding should be checked first, since I have not had all the instrument panel working for about 20 years. So I did manage without the tac and cruise control Since I changed the fuses, the tac has worked for a whole day now.

    Any ideas. Oh yeah, the oddometer stopped quite a few years ago, so can't compare to your miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The car's probably worth about $2,500.

    You will get 18-20 mpg in the city, and about 23-26 on the highway. On a steep downhill run in the pure vacuum of outer space running on thin over-inflated tires, you might get 30 mpg on cruise control at 55 mph. :P

    Doubt if the AC will be fixed. These are not good systems and usually they are all screwed up. But he might get lucky, who knows? The AC will be "modestly adequate" at best.

    As for what to look for---check for excessive oil residue in the air cleaner (shows a worn engine that will run okay but burn a lot of oil). Make sure the car starts up IMMEDIATELY when cold or hot. If it cranks and cranks, you got problems.

    Generally these are tough old cars but being non-turbo they can be dangerously slow on on-ramps and they aren't cheap to fix.

    I'd tend to think of a non-turbo 300 as a "hobby car" or a put-around city car, for which it's great (which is why they used to use them for taxicabs all over the world).

    If you like diesels, consider buying a turbo diesel for this kind of money. Much better in every way.
  • lydia2lydia2 Member Posts: 18
    I have am 83 300D mercedes with the same problems that you have. Female...me, so do not want a huge labor bill from the experts. So far, I have been told to buy a new hazard switch. Not here yet. Is the relay switch for my car also located inside the shifter console. Some parts tech showed me two silver boxes under a big black box cover under my hood on the driver side and said they were relay switches. I have my hazard switched popped loose and am waiting for the new one.

    Also am wondering about grounding on these cars because I have had electrical problems like no cruise or odometer for 20 years. Searches for "vacuum leaks" were costly and unproductive. Tac has worked for two days, since replacing a number of fuses. Could corrosion cause some of these problems?

    Wanting to learn and have your advice since you solved a similar problem. Thanx.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    Fuses and corrosion: Sure, you must make sure the ends are clean and contacts are good- both of the fuses, and the fuse box. Tach and turn signals/ hazard are on the same fuse- so if your tach is working, then fuse is ok.
    Relay- yes, the '83 hazard relay is also in the shifter console; NOT anywhere under the hood- what the tech showed you were probably the glow plug relays- leave them alone.
    You are already changing your hazard switch- so if that solves the problem, then you are all set.
    If not, then it's a good chance it's the relay- that solved my problem- I bought mine from this website:
    http://www.germanimportedparts.com/
    Part # is 000-821-1063. I checked- it's the same for 82 and 83; only $24, and getting to it is very easy. Remove the cigarette tray, remove the woodgrain shifter console, and you will see it right under the shifter (inside, ahead of the 4 window switches); simply remove the old and plug in the new.
    Here's an image of the relay image

    Hope this helps.
  • matty4matty4 Member Posts: 10
    After storing my 85 300d for the winter, it now starts quite rough and does not idle smoothly for at least a minute or two. I need to rev the rpms arouns 1500-2000 for a minute or two before it chills out. Does my engine just need to warm up or may I have another problem? After it warms up it runs very smoothly. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Get a good strong fuel system additive and change your fuel filters and then take 'er out for a good hard run. Might do the trick.
  • lydia2lydia2 Member Posts: 18
    My 83 300D idles alittle rough,but no difference for the 25 years it is. In the winter, I put the pedal to the metal three times. Then turn the key to start it with no pressure on the gas pedal. In the summer, it only takes one press. I use the additive to the diesel fuel. I don't think you should be revving it! Just start and go easy for the first few minutes.
    Have you had any trouble with signal lights/hazard lights/tac/odometer. Do you know where the grounding is on these cars?
    I am awaiting a relay switch for these, it's located under the shift consol, I've learned from this net page.
  • lydia2lydia2 Member Posts: 18
    Thanx big time! The new hazard switch made no difference. So I ordered the relay.....$132 plus tax ! Is that $24 in Canadian$? Still may not be too late to cancel that order, I will have to see.
    The tac is only working intermittendly now...three days after changing the fuses.
    If the relay does the job, should I still do the corrison thing behind the fuses?
    Do I have to take the backing (where all the fuses sit) off for this job?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The cruise control problem is probably the cruise amplifier, which is behind the console. You can buy rebuilt amplifiers for about $100 on the internet. This is a very commmon problem on the 300D.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    $132 is a rip off for the hazard/ turn signal relay; and $24 is good ole US$. Make sure you are not getting any other kinda relay.
    You may just want to clean up the contact area of the fuses. Don't take any backing off where the fuses sit- just clean up the fuses and mating contact areas to make sure good electrical contact.
    My cruise also does not work- doesn't bother me since I never use cruise on any car- they are not very reliable on this car anyway.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    95% of the time its the cruise amplifier.

    If you can get a part # off the old amplifier, sometimes you can write to Internet sites like www.mercedesshop.com and they might tell you what that relay does.

    Anyone doing serious work on a 300D should really spring for the 3 volume workshop manuals. Sometimes you can find them on eBay. They are pricey but everything....I mean...everything....is revealed in those books.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    During my "deep clean" of my 300D, I removed all carpets and discovered I had a rust problem and even some water in the floor pan. The left rear anchor of the drivers seat was sagging, and even has a hole in the floor.
    Does anyone know what gauge sheet metal should be used to repair the hole?
    I plan on removing all loose scale, and treating it with Rust Bullet. And then, instead of welding, I plan on using por-patch (from Por-15) to bond new sheet metal, and then top coat. Rust Bullet seems to be the best anti-rust coat out there, and the Por-15 guys told me por-patch could be used as a bonding adhesive.
    Does this sound right?
  • ryan77300dryan77300d Member Posts: 64
    Does yours have that extra "skin" of particial-board like stuff over the actual sheet metal? Mine has a fully moulded almost sub-floor when the carpets are pulled. I also have a hole right under the accelerator pedal (ripped off about a month ago...thus far, pressing on the rod seems to work for now) and I'd like to start repairing this.

    Thanks

    -Ryan
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    Yes, I have (had) that stuff on the sheet metal. I took it all out from the back passenger floor. The fronts look fine and solid- so am not touching it now. That stuff is actually for noise suppression; I will put something similar after I am done with the floor.
    I am glad I took it all out- because underneath, it was starting to rust the floor because of trapped moisture. And the hole under the driver's seat became much larger as I started to scrape away. Looks like it's gonna be almost a whole new sheet metal layer above the existing floor. I'm gonna get it nice and clean first, apply the Rust Bullet coat, and then put new sheet metal on top. I am in 2 minds yet- whether to take it to a weld shop for the new layer, or bond it with a good adhesive like por-patch.
    Anybody have a thought on weld vs. bond; or suggestions for another adhesive that is known to work?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you are just patching a small hole and it isn't a structural issue of any kind, bonding is fine---especially on a car of this value level. These bonding materials are very strong. I wouldn't go bonding large panels though.
  • hoofen1hoofen1 Member Posts: 16
    I am told that the fuel lines have to be bled in order to change the fuel filters.What is the proper way to do this??
    Anyone!?!? TY
  • hoofen1hoofen1 Member Posts: 16
    Sorry folks,regarding my previous message and bleeding the fuel lines.forgot to mention that I was talking aboput a 1985 300 CDT
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You don't always have to do this. Sometimes (often)you get lucky. But if you do, there is a small plunger on the fuel pump...or used to be...not sure about an '85 turbo. Anyway, just pump this plunger right after you install the filters and then try to start it.

    If that won't work after repeated tries, you'll have to crank the engine while cracking open each nut on the fuel injection lines until fuel leaks out on each line. This bleeds out the air. No danger of fire but might get a bit messy. Best done with two people.
  • hoofen1hoofen1 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks,
    I'll give that a try this weekend and let you now the results.
    H1
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