Mercedes 300D Suggestions

Mr_Shiftright

Probably just slop in the differential. But you can easily check the u-joints in your driveshaft for play. Also these diesels can idle down really low, so maybe your idle is too high?

Best way to test the aux fan is to just let the car idle with the AC on and see what happens. If the aux fan doesn't kick in as the temp needle approaches hot, then it's not working.

zadams

is your vacuum system working? I had considerable rough shifting in my 300d (85') when my vacuum system was broke. It was remedied when a fualty line was replaced.

bawlmerc

I'm looking to buy a 1980 300CD with 140,000 mile on it. The cars in great shape. What should I look for in terms of past or future problem areas. What does W123 mean. It's a non turbo.
Thanks
BawlmerC

britcan

i have one a 79 great car its a turbo .123 is a chassis type older type then came w116 = 300sd same engine then w124 300sd in 81 what part of usa do you live in ?? give me a call 210-396-1643 maurice phillips

keithmcd

thks for answers....
re- diff slop .....can diff just continue to take it without serious effect?
I will check idle ...that may be

--i have changed the fan clutch and radiator already, so now the car does not overheat even when idle with AC running this of course is good but precludes using that as test for the aux elec fan. perhaps on a very hot day coming off highway running this may work...will try it.

thks

Mr_Shiftright

Things to look for:

1. Rust

2. Is the climate control working properly when you "dial it"? Play with it and make sure you get heat and AC. If not plan on spending some $$$ to fix that.

3. Filthy neglected engine. If the engine is a filthy greasy mess, this is not a good sign about the rest of the car.

4. Look for unusual tire wear front and rear.

5. Check the air filter for oil inside. If there's a puddle of oil, the engine has "blow-by" and while that's not super bad, it does show engine wear. And of course it constantly clogs up air filters!

6. Make sure the car is not sagging in the rear end. If so, the hydro-pneumatic compensator is shot and requires repair.

7. The transmission is normally harsh-shifting, but make sure it shifts before the engine is screaming.

8. Check for moisture under all the carpeting.

Don't fall for outrageous claims about these cars. Your gas mileage will be 22-26 mpg. The car will not go "a million miles" without repair. Major repairs will be expensive.

Parts are generally still readily available. I would suggest you invest in the 3 volume factory manuals if you like DIY repairs. They will pay for themselves the first time. (about $300).

Always use a fuel conditioner every fill up.

benzsilver

to bawlmewrc from benzsilver... well , the first part of your internet name may or may not come to fruition... i bough an '84 cd however it was turbo and sunroof. i fell in love with the car when i first saw it as i had bee looking for this specific car for ten years. the car lot took care of the immediate problem i noticed under the hood with engine running. the return lines on the fuel injectors were leaking very badly. they did replace them before i bought the car. i bought and drove home my benz (20miles) proudly. This was a as-is purchase , no warranty, you buy, its all yours. as i had previously owned a 75 230 sedan and had familiarity with the workings of a benz, i felt confident that i could handle situations as the came up. as i began to pull into garage my lady noticed leaking oil beneath the car. it was from a transmissiom return line from cooler in front of radiator which had a hole in it( from all the vibration of the engine) at one of the support connections. I repaired that with some imagination. next, although the tires all looked like they would give me many miles of driving pleasure with their good looking threads, afew days later, i was sailing along on the freeway, when i felt a thump, thump, thump. I came to a stop, inspected the now flat and treadless tire. i thought, What next? A set of new michelins! $$$$$ I' ve had the same car now for 11 years and to this day, still love this car. it's kind like being with a woman, you get use to their ups and downs. Good Luck and congratualations. If you by chance find one(benz) with a turbo i believe you will be much happier with it. :shades:

keithmcd

A) I have a completely siezed up door lock on driver's door. Can I swap passenger side door handle/lock with driver's side? (just flip it over) it appears to be visually and externally symetrical top to bottom. just wondering as new one is $900.00!!
what about fuel additives? should I use this every fillup? and what product do you recommend. (I'm at 506,000km -approx 350,000 miles) engine runs great and I do use a synthetic oil additive each change in summer time.
thks

benzsilver

flipping it over may work, but how are you going to contend with the passenger side? Have you tried working graphite in the keyhole yet or even soaking it with mystery oil.? otherwise chek with your local 'pick your part' salvage yard and your chahces are good that you will find a serviceable part there, cheap and you will gain loads of experience and information as you remove the part. As for the additive, it has been recommended to me to get that at a truck stop. I believe it is in a red-labelled container.. or a white container; labelled diesel octane booster.good luck :shades:

keithmcd

the handle and door latch works fine and opens the door ....just the lock tumbler is siezed up and cannot use the key to lock or unlock......so IF they are truly INTERCHANGABLE left to right, then I am all set. Just won't be able to unlock car from passenger side
The benefit of this vrs finding another door lock is that my igition key works fine with the passenger side lock, so by moving the passenger side lock to the driver's door, I will still be able to use my ignition key to lock and unlock my driver's side door.
thks

Mr_Shiftright

You may just have a stuck tumbler. I'd definitely run some graphite lube in there and work it. It might free up. Also I don't see why a locksmith couldn't repair the lock that's in there. You don't need the whole lock, you just need the tumbler part.

jrosasmc

So I was reading Maureen McCormick's (aka Marcia Brady) new memoir a few days ago and I had to share this short excerpt, which takes place circa 1973:

"I had my heart set on an Audi but my father insisted on me being in something safe...I ended up with a Mercedes diesel sedan...It was a beautiful car but it felt like I was driving a smoky 18-wheeler..."

Frankly, I have to agree with her on that one - the numerous times I drove my college buddy's '82 240D it felt as if I was piloting a bus, due to its quite heavy feel. It certainly wasn't as agile as my old Toyota Corolla, that's for sure.

fintail

Would an Audi of that period been much different, save for the fuel type? They seem pretty stodgy, too.

No doubt a Corolla would be a lot more agile than a 240D...probably more powerful, and lighter. Probably more metal in the front clip of a W115/W123 than an entire period Corolla :P

I remember the first time I drove my fintail, and the first thing I thought was "this is like a bus". Gigantic steering wheel, upright windshield, weird engine noise and acceleration compared to a normal car. But, I got used to it pretty quickly.

Mr_Shiftright

The Audi would have been in a junkyard in a few years is the main difference. :P

britcan

i had a 1980 300sd for 15 years and it was a great vehicle engine never let me down and it was fast over 15 years it gave 30+ mpg miss that sd now have a 90 300e looking for a 190td hard to find but will get one soon

fintail

300SD is the W116 to have, it seems.

burdawg

I liked the 280se I had. You needed to drive it right though, not be afraid to let it rev in the 4-5K range. The euro version had more power (significant) due to the cam timing. I could have retimed the cams, but it's a big job to install the offset woodruff keys, so I never bothered.

fintail

That engine must be related to the unit in the W108 280SE, which is related to the M127 in my W111 220SE. They really have to be revved, for sure - but they like it.

Good old smooth, if a little clattery, I6.

Mr_Shiftright

They'll foul up if you don't wind 'em. This brought first-time Benz buyers in America to grief. They were used to American V-8s, which operated most comfortably at very low engine speeds, due to all their torque.

If you don't wish to drive your old 280SE vigorously (and I do mean vigorously), you'll have to go to a hotter plug and carry a bucket of them around with you.

burdawg

Can't say specifically which ones, but the earlier models were single cam, right?

fintail

Yeah, that's right.

jburleig

Hi. I am new to this forum. I was hoping to gain some advice on a 1995 300D I am interested in. It is a two owner car with about 190k miles. Assuming it is in good condition and has been well maintained (which I still need to verify), what might be a good price to offer the seller? I believe they want around $6,000 for it, but that seems rather high to me based on Edmunds and KBB valuations.

As I understand it, the 1994 and 1995 model years of the W124 diesel are pretty good ones to consider, so these are the ones I have been most interested in. As far as problem areas, I understand the wiring harness was recalled on this model, so plan to verify it was taken care of. Would there be a few other check list items anyone would suggest?

Many thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

Assuming it's in super shape, that might not be an unreasonable price---but it would have to be one helluva nice car and have no significant "needs". The miles are very high (diesel "myths" not withstanding) and you have to be realistic about how much further this vehicle is going to go without major work.

So if it needs tires, or mechanical work, or upholstery, etc.---deduct accordingly from the asking price. If you are going to pay "top dollar" (which this is) then you want "top condition".

underpressure

I have a 92 Mercedes 300D 2.5.
Metallic Noise Could this be a timing chain?

here is a video on you tube.

Help! any ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9zelc1990U

fintail

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjVmkUTuMGU

I think this is why many people don't like diesels... :shades:

Mr_Shiftright

Yes that does sound like a timing chain actually.

Mercedes 190D -- sounds and looks like a worn out piece of iron that never had maintenance, injector pump timing or fuel additives. That engine is "nailing" and begging for some mercy.

fintail

You don't like the sound of rocks in a blender?

It's idling too slow in gear, too - that's why it stalled. At the least it needs some diesel purge.

But it fits the old stereotype to a tee.

Mr_Shiftright

Good lord, who could listen to that racket all day long. :mad:

benzsilver

I have an '84 cdt. I had put a new groumet on the upper link of the transmission linkage. I had bought 2 new groumets, but after the tussel to replace the upper one, I decided to wait on replacing the lower one which connects directly to the floor shifter. It appeared to be fairly snug at that time( a year ago) Well i had some time on my hands last week so I decided to replace the lower groumet on same shifter since the shifter seemed to have some additional play in it. Again I tusseled at replacing the groumet. The tussel is with the design of the keeper which is an improvement over the well-known cottarpin designed keeper. I got it all done and took the benz for a spin and I noticed the trans never shifted to drive althoough the indicater was pointing to D. It seems I have to manually shift from S to L to D toget the gears to change. P, R and N work as they always have. Whats going on with this? Comments, suggestions would be appreciated :confuse:

burdawg

How many miles?

burdawg

I'll wager that with the new grommet the adjustment is just off enough to keep it out of overdrive. When you shift it manually the inertia of the upshift may be enough to move the shifter a little bit more than when you just start out in D. Try starting out in drive and wiggling the shifter back and forth to see if it will go into overdrive when expected.

benzsilver

Mr Shiftright..I recently replaced the back groumet (transmission) on my mb300 cdt after having replaced the front one a year ago. When I replaced th front one the trans continued to work well, however when I replaced the back one, the transmission will not go thru its changes to 4th gear. P,R,&N seem to work as they should. I can get the gear to change from 1s t to 2nd by placing the gear lever in N then moving selector to L, the to maybe get it to go to 3rd gear again moving selector back to N the back to D. It sometimes down shifts to L but generally will stay in 3rd, however if I move the lever back to N then back to D, it does not go into D or 4th gear. If I have to stop, I have to repeat the process. I know this is probably good for the trans. The trans has never given me any problems until I changed(replaced) the back groumet(Linkage connecting the floor shifter) I have not been able to find any instructions as to how to adjust the linkage. Please help. billfletes-sr@live.com :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright

Loosen the locknut and disconnect the selector rod from the bottom of the selector lever. Then place the selector lever on the transmission and the shift lever in the vehicle to Neutral. Then adjust the length of the selector rod so that it can be reconnected without disturbing the levers. Reconnect the selector lever and tighten the nut securely.

wineguy321

I just replaced the battery and the security horn will not turn off until 30 seconds or so. I ran the car to charge the vacuum system so the locks will work and turned the car off. I locked the doors, unlocked the doors, and started the car but the horn started to go off again. Any ideas on hoe this will stop?

-Ryan

Mr_Shiftright

Probably when you tear out the alarm system and throw it over your back fence. :P That's what I'd do, anyway.

jameslei

Engine will just not stop unless I raise the hood and press on the button marked STOP. 'Erwin' (the car) is a real work horse but when thumping on the closed hood and shouting in German finally failed to stop the engine, I figured I needed help. I assume the problem is something to do with the dratted vacuum system; maybe there is a leek in one of the lines to one of the FOUR doors.
I can do without central locking, and wondered if there were a SIMPLE way of fixing things so the engine will stop when I turn the ignition key to the off position?
With many thanks.
James

brillanze

http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairyourshutoffvalve.htm

Follow that link -he uses pictures, too! (And he sells the parts -only took a couple of days to get them). Easy job-Good luck!

jameslei

Thank you kindly Brillanze; I will follow up your helpful suggestions. James.

bbiofuels

Hi This is my first post so howdy. My 300d really shakes at idle. It smooths out when i apply my foot to the accelerator and increase the rpms but its probably too high like 1000 . I got a replacement vacuum boost hose that runs from the vacuum pump to the brake booster because the little tap broke off. I do remember when that little piece was good and I would remove it, that the idle would drop. Now it doesn't seem to affect the idle at all??? Any suggestions. I'll probably get a gauge to read the vacuum. 1st step.

Mr_Shiftright

If you had a big vacuum leak, chances are your door locks wouldn't work and your engine wouldn't shut off.

But if you have low vacuum, I'd do a valve adjustment pronto. Also check your air filter for oil fouling, a common problem on these old diesels because of engine blowby from years of internal wear.

goldcar

After 3 years of consistently good behavior, my 1982 300D won't start.

The glow plug light comes on. Once it goes off, the engine cranks normally, but it doesn't start. Afterward, I can smell the fuel (biodiesel).

I've checked and replaced both fuel filters. The little manual fuel pump works fine on my car. The air filter is all fine. I had the compression tested a year ago: all cylinders were around 310. The battery was fine, but all the cranking has run it down. Now I've hooked it up to a battery charger that also has a boost setting, so I can still crank with plenty of power.

I'm thinking I should more thoroughly investigate the glow plug system using this HowTo from Diesel Giant.

Any suggestion on how I can get the car started?

One other thing, it seems that part of my throttle linkage is missing. Most of it is there and working, but this part (not sure what it is), doesn't have the linkage connecting to it anymore. I'm not sure how long this has been the case, but there it is.

Mr_Shiftright

Either the glow plug system or you are sucking air into the fuel system. You might follow instructions on that website for bleeding the injection system. Also check that big fuse for the glow plug system---I think it's 80 amp.

goldcar

If I find that the fuse is blown, how bad of an idea is it to bridge it with a heavy wire so I can get the car running for the weekend?

By fuse, it is really just a hunk of metal, right?

Also, do you know what that box is in the middle of the picture and how worried I should be that some of the throttle linkage is missing?

Mr_Shiftright

You might be able to start the car on one glow plug, by attaching a battery jumper cable to cylinder #1 glow plug and then squirting in just a bit of starting ether. If it kicks off, you know you have a glow plug circuit problem.

How old are these glow plugs? They do wear out you know.

Or you could just try a little starting ether in the air filter housing. That might get you going.

If the car runs then, then you know it's time to replace glow plug circuit parts.

The "fuse" is just a chunk of metal but 80 amps is a serious fuse and I wouldn't bridge it. It's easy to check, just look in the black box there on the left inner fenderwell.

goldcar

All 5 glow plugs are bad, based on the testing I did following the Diesel Giant instructions. I replaced two of them with the Autolite glow plugs I bought from my local Kragen (they don't carry the Bosch in stock). With them and a squirt of starter spray got it running.

I ordered new bosch premium glow plugs for all 5 cylinders. Once they come in, I'll replace the 3 bad ones and the 2 autolites.

Any idea what that box in the middle of my picture is (few posts back) ?

It seems that the throttle linkage that attached to it broke off. I'm just wondering how bad this is.

Mr_Shiftright

I don't know what that is---maybe the vacuum pump? My book doesn't identify it and it's been a long time since I worked on one.

bcparsons

The cruise control on my 1984 300D Turbo practically never works. Just drove 450 miles and it never engaged. It has worked only once in the last 6 months.

Mr_Shiftright

Probably the amplifier....common problem. I think you can buy them rebuilt online.

dotish

My 1980 300D's cruise control works intermittently. When it's not working (most of the time) the car gradually accelerates after it's engaged until I cut it off. I gave up trying to use it some time ago. Could this problem be caused by the amplifier as well? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

definitely possible. It's been a while since I've worked on one. The Haynes manual I'm looking at right now unfortunately doesn't cover this system.