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I also called the last owner who drove it for two years and 25K miles. Two months ago they had installed a new trans and brakes! I'm guessing rotors too as they look new. Dealer just installed new tires. The jeep is clean in and out and fun to drive. The previous owner said it was their son's jeep and he loved it and served him well. I'm buying the GCL for my 17 year old son too, so, hopefully it will get him down the road a bit. Last Christmas I bought my other son a 1995 Jeep Cherokee I6 4x2 5 speed with 155K miles on it; it was a one owner jeep and it's been flawless in every respect, just add gas and go! I can only hope the 99 CGL holds up as well as the 95.
I also researched the first owner of this 99 GCL and they put 48K miles on it in one year!
Lastly, I test drove this 99 GCL on a two hundred plus mile trip over Christmas and didn't notice any problems less the bearing sound in the rear end. Everything worked fine from high speed braking to slow speed turns. The GCL handled like a dream on the interstate and back roads. Engine idles and runs smooth, no leaks, good acceleration, no "death wobble" etc.
But like I said and have been told, I know I'm taking a chance but heck, the price is right and we don't keep cars in this family too long anyway, so if "Miss Betsy" starts to give us trouble, we'll just give her the boot! Do appreciate the advice and well wishes! Happy New Year!
I have a 01 JGC with only 48.5K miles, tranny started acting up on Christmas Eve, Got car to local Dealer on 12/27, was told needed total tranny reconditioning, to the tune of $1750. of course with the 01 only 3yr,36K. Has anyone else had same problem? and has DC helped out in anyway?
I bought a 2003 JGC Laredo in November. After about a week, we started noticing inconsistent problems with the locks not working properly, the dome light not going off every time, the computer/compass display not doing what it says it is doing and stating that the door is open when in fact it is not.
We also experienced problems with the parking brake handle (feeling like it is going to rip right off and not feeling very secure).
We scheduled an appointment for these problems, but four days before our appointment, the transmission completely blew out at 1900 miles!
It took a few weeks and the Jeep Dealership replaced the transmission as well as the speed sensor for the ABS (which also had a short in it). The other problems, as many others have stated, resulted in the conclusion by Jeep, "Unable to duplicate".
Question: Am I out of line for thinking that Jeep should replace our car with a new one? I know that we don't qualify for the "Lemon Law" at this point, but shouldn't Jeep take the high road and give in to our request? We have argued until being blue in the face without any success. Does anyone have any suggestions/comments?
Thanks and I apologize for the lengthy post!
Also, I must be very fortunate...I've not had one thing go wrong with my JGC so far during the 27,000+ miles, except for this brake problem, and I admit I'm hard on brakes! Everything works and I'm really happy with how it drives. Thanks for any pointers on the brakes issue.
Anyway, here is what I have found on the TSB posted at wjjeeps web site:
FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
Date: 5/13/02 (June 2002)
Bulletin # 0500302A (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)
Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)
Description: Brake roughness or pedal pulsation when the brakes are applied. The customer may experience a vibration of the steering wheel, floor, seat, instrument panel, or a minor pedal pulsation (brake roughness) under light to moderate pedal application. The condition may be caused by excessive thickness variation of the brake rotor surface.
Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.
05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)
Good luck, DS
Was the mechanic concerned about problems that would be created when he disconnected your control device. Like I mentioned before I too have this ticking noise and although they showed me what it was they never suggested to disconnect
My advice, don't disconnect what's not meant to be or you may incur high out of pocket costs.
Take care, DS
Please let me know if anybody else has had similar problem with their Jeep.
My 5* is going to check it out next week but it seems that the sound has to be over a certain level before it becomes unacceptable & something ? can be done.
What is the "fix"?. Need details so that I can ask the right questions and get the problem corrected while still in warranty.
Checked NHTSA for service bulletins. Found # 0300302A dated Oct 28,2002 but cound not get a copy of this from the website. How can I get the bulletin info or a Jeep TSB?
Appreciate ANY help .
Don't deal with any dealership who refuses to provide you with a copy.
Do you have Quadra Drive in addition to Quarda Trac?
The whine compliants seem to be caused by the Quarda Drive system.
www dot wjjeeps dot com scroll down and follow the link to TSB's.
This past fall, we got a complete front brake job (calipers, rotors, pads) on our '99. We only had a $50 co-pay because of this TSB and a previous rotor replacement indicating that we had reported previous problems. We WERE a couple mos. past the 36 mo. warranty period, but only had had 32K mi.
The guy next to me in the courtesy van back to the dealer ship was jealous. He was paying over $600 for the same work, but he had mileage at somewhere around 75K.
My theory is that the Check Engine light and the faulty transmission symptom are related and after reading a few posts here, I believe it all has to do with the PMC.
If someone knows about this, please respond and give me a clue if this is a big, expensive problem or something minor. And... should I go to dealership immediately... Thanks in advance.
The front door hinges on my '97 GCV8 have two little capstan rollers that click past the detent spring. (This is to hold the doors open on inclines) In spite of regular maintenance, these rollers get stiff and creaky.
Recently, one of the rollers shattered when I opened the door, scattering small ball-bearings. The sharp edge of the capstan post soon began to cut into the detent spring and made an 'orrible grating noise on opening the door.
I figured that it was time to fit a new hinge, but Jeep hinges are welded on the door side and bolted only onto the frame side. The rollers are on the door side, making a weld inevitable. The dealer told me that it might cost hundreds to fix. The hinge is only $50, but there is cutting, welding and repainting. (And inevitably, rusting!)
The fix is to go down to the hardware store and buy a "nylon spacer" that is about the same outside diameter as the original roller. 59 cents in Home Depot.
Before starting, check the hinge detente spring. If it is badly chewed up, this fix might not work for you. If it is just a little chewed up, use a fine file or abrasive to ease off any burrs.
Using a drill or dremel with a conical grinding (or abrasive head) ream out the inside diameter of the spacer from both sides until it _just_ sits on the head of the capstan post.
By using a conical grinding head, you'll leave a slight bulge inside the nylon spacer which is a tad smaller than the diameter of the capstan.
(The inside has an hourglass shape.)
Grease the capstan post and sit the nylon roller on the top.
Give the roller one sharp rap with a hard plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer. The roller should pop permanently onto the post. If it doesn't, clean it up and ream it out a bit more, but not so much that it won't stay on the post.
If you get the inside diameter of the roller just right, it should rotate freely but stay on the post. Even if it doesn't rotate freely, it won't matter (read on).
Grease the hinge well with an appropriate hinge lube. I use a grey high-flashpoint lithium grease which seems to hold the creaking at bay between services.
The resulting roller works perfectly and is actually quieter than the original. If it doesn't rotate, it just wears down slightly where it contacts the spring, and you might have to replace it again later. It won't damage or abrade the spring. Mine has lasted well for 8 months.
It's important to pick a spacer made of the hard, slick nylon that is typically used as an axle spacer on small cart axles. That kind of plastic is self-lubricating and hard wearing. They come in a variety of diameters and lengths - i didn't need to cut it for length.
I hope this tip helps someone else save a few bucks on hinge work.