Acura MDX Care and Maintenance
The dealer just called me letting me know about the 7500 mile VTM service. Of course thanks to this forum I already know about it. What he told me, that I didn't know is that the fluid is a different type? According to him, it is a special "break-in" fluid that HAS to be changed? I thought that was interesting, and consistent with what I have learned.
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There's often some advice in some vehicles to avoid changing fluids like the oil early because of the loss of those additives.
Just purchased my `02 starlight silver MDX about a week ago. I took a trip out of state and back with it and now need to clean it. Any suggestions
on cleaning the exterior with certain brands of car wash, wax or glaze? The dealer who sold me the car, suggested a glaze. What do I wash it with? With my older cars, I had just used dish -washing detergent or any other car wash I was able to find in my garage. I want to make sure I'll be using something that will be gentle and of course keep it looking new at all times. I read the owners manual and it mentioned using dishwashing detergent and wax afterwards. Thanks, Meleva
I had a hose that was pressing against the top of oil dipstick moved and they removed the dealership emblem from the back of the car...total $29.00...not bad considering Acura service is supposedly over priced.
They didn't have any loaner cars available, so they set me up with an Enterprise rental. I expressed that I didn't want a GEO Metro, so they upgraded me to a midsize without blinking...I got a Nissan Maxima. Other than the fruity/baking powder gross smell that was in the car, it was an OK experience. Also makes me realize how close the MDX handles to mid-level performance cars...the MDX isn't as quick, but the handling isn't too far off.
Thanks
Total cost $148 OTD. I asked them to replace the front wiper blades because they were cracked, when I got my bill the first time it had about $20 on it to change the blades...I complained and they reversed the charge and agreed that this really should be a warranty item, since I was under 1 year on the car.
The suspension bolt tightening turned out to be standard on the 7500 service, so I didn't need to go out for a test drive.
No one behind the desk was really sure about the MDX, and I had to check with 3 people to make sure the differential fluid change/flush was included.
Overall a decent experience, which could have been easier if the person on the phone setting it up was more helpful, next time I am just going to insist on a loaner.
Have a Happy New Year
In my case I'd need to add an hour or so to and from the dealer. In addition, my Acura dealer service IS the definition of slow. For me, figure at least three hours at the dealer, maybe more.
When a dealer does the work there is a record that the manufacturer can easily check. If your independent shop does the work keep the final R/O for your records. If you do the maintenance you will need to have receipts for parts and something (log or door jam stickers on the door jam) that shows when you did the maintenance.
Many find it easy to simply let the dealer do the work. The dealer has the parts and is familiar with the model. It may be a little more expensive, but it is also more comforting. Like insurance, comfort level is important in deciding where to have the routine servicing.
As you can see they are charging 90 bucks an hour for labor. So I guess I will be shopping around for better rates even if it means driving a little further. I will just test drive different vehicles to kill time
I got a brand new 2003 MDX. As we all know about "3000-mile oil change" rule, please help me on the following questions:
1) Would synthetic oil better than the regular motor oil? If yes, do I still need to change it every 3000 miles? My dealer thinks that a) synthetic oil should not be used until 10K/15K miles because the engine needs an overall break-in and synthetic oil might be too "smooth"; b)oil change period can be stretched to 5K vs. 3K. Some dealers even do not recommend of using synthetic oil at all.
2) Which motor oil and synthetic oil are recommended/best/preferable?
Thanks much.
I have been using Mobil-1 synthetic for nearly 30 years with no problems. I usually change to synthetic at 3000 miles, but waited until 7500 with my MDX. Most of my cars receive once a year oil changes. I put less than 15,000 miles per year on each car. Some of the European cars now have an on board computer that tells the driver when to change oil and these will sometimes allow as much as 20,000 miles between changes.
None of my cars have used oil because of the extended change interval. Only two have required oil be added during the year, and then it was only one quart between changes. (BTW, one of the two cars is a 2003 model and the rate of oil use dropped by half when I switched to synthetic.)
VTM-4 fluid is most likely available only from an Acura or Honda dealer. It comes in a gallon container even though only three quarts are needed. Acura sells a small hand pump for about $10 with a tube that fits into the fill hole of the VTM-4 unit as well as another tube and fitting for the gallon container.
My dealer charges $65 for the VTM-4 fluid change. The fluid is $20 of that cost. First change was due at 7500 miles (like the first engine oil change). Subsequent changes are normally at multiples of 30,000 on the odometer.
Any service facility or you can can do fluid changes without warranty problems. Just as DIYers should, if you don't use an Acura dealer be sure to keep receipts and records showing the dates and odometer readings when service is performed. In addition, make sure the service orders show, or you have receipts to show that proper parts and fluids were purchased.
Good Luck on your MDX, I just pick mine up about 2 months ago and still waiting to do my first oil change.
I know the owner of a limo company in NYC that run their limos 10k miles on Mobil 1 between changes . I would consider this to be heavy duty driving . Most limos go well past 200k with no engine failures . And for using a Honda oil filter ......that court case was settled a few years back . Using a non factory filter will not void the warranty , unless the manufacturer specifically states so in the owners manual AND provides said filter free of charge .
Porsche make a very nice engine, very tight tolarence, long testing and break in period in the factory and the best seals money can buy. But for the rest of us who cannot afford Porsche, the engines needs to break in probably before the change over to synthetic. This is not a must for any engine but it is a practice that is consider safer.
Most limo companies do prolong their oil changes, alot like the taxi industries, but they have check ups in between those oil changes. It really all comes down to profit margin, the less they spend the more profit they make.
I believe that most import cars will state in their manual that factory oil filters are recommended. Alot of these oil filters have special characteristics to them that the off the shelf filters dont have. The big question is that if I pay $40,000 for a car why would I take a chance and try to save 2 bucks on a oil filter or try to squeeze another 1000 miles out of my oil change.
Under hard driving conditions, such as passing, high load high speed driving, up hills, etc., there will be a small performance decrease.
The dollar savings over a year for using regular or midgrade are not great. If one drives 15,000 miles per year and averages 17 mpg (about average for an MDX using premium) the savings for using regular would be just $175 per year if mpg stayed the same. This is based on a 20 cent difference per gallon. The savings drops to about $120 per year if mpg drops by half a mile to the gallon (based on $2 per gallon for regular). The savings would be half for midgrade.
Meguiars makes some good car finish products. I find their final detailer works better than their quick detailer. S-dressing works well on the black panels between the front and rear door windows. Microfiber towels seem to work best. They are like dust magnets and are unlikely to scratch.
Klear Screen using a Klear Kloth works well on the navigation screen. It is anti static and is not likely to scratch the screen. I usually use the same cloth on the "wood look" parts of the interior. Find it where computers are sold. It is usually used on lap top screens and LCD monitors.
MT
Doesn't take long, but if you DIY you will need the Honda/Acura hand pump (part number 08200-9004 is what I have) to pump from the container into the VTM-4 unit. Pump cost is $9. The pump screws onto the gallon fluid container and has a tube with a fitting for the fill opening on the VTM-4 unit
I was very careful and made sure they didn't check anything else, open the transmission or differential to check fluid levels, change my tire pressure, etc. I often find that it is the other areas at these places where mistakes are made.
It was expensive, $34.50 for an oil change, but the convenience of getting it done on a Sunday no waiting was worth it. So far I have had mine changed every 5000 miles...I have a road trip coming up and noticed it was starting to change from clear brown to slightly black, so rather than go 7500 miles I had it done now.
Hondas in general now call for 5W-20 and an oil change shop should know that. Do you know what brand oil was put in your MDX?
I will have to check with my dealer on the viscosity, I never got a letter regarding the error?
I am not sure if I should worry about it or not?
The 02s' oil filler cap on the engine calls for 5W-30 and that prompted me to question why the owners manual said something different.
When it was time for the first oil change I got the impression from my local dealers that they used whatever bulk oil they had for all oil changes. None knew the viscosity without looking at the big drum.
Probably the only disadvantage to using 5W-20 is if the ambient temperatures exceeds 100 degrees and or the engine starts to run hot. Not likely situations.
The advantage of 20 vs. 30 is slightly better mpg, though I doubt you would notice the difference. For temperatures above freezing, while the engine warms to normal operating temperature, there should be essentially no difference between 5W and 10W oils.
If you are concerned about temperature extremes you can use synthetic oil, which flows better when very cold and can take more heat before breaking down. The down side is synthetic costs about $4 per quart or more (I just paid about $3.90 per quart for Mobil-1).
I seemed to have better performance off the line? Or at least I imagined a slightly more spry feeling to my MDX? I may just have been imagining it, but once again my MDX drove like a dream on a long family weekend road trip. The only thing I wish it had was better cup holders for the front. The 2nd row gets 6 with everything folded out/down, the front has 2 shallow holders. Oh well.
In short, it is unlikely, unless one tows without an oil cooler, an MDX will need the higher temperature performance of synthetic oil. The possible added protection for extreme high temperatures from Amsoil is unlikely to be used.
Unlike Amsoil, Mobil-1 and other synthetics are available virtually everywhere and usually cost less than Amsoil (unless you become an Amsoil dealer).
Personally, I use synthetic oil (Mobil-1), and have for over 25 years, because I like having the added protection available, just in case. It is not necessarily cost effective. I have not observed any performance or mpg increase on any of my cars when I switched to synthetic oil with the same viscosity as the regular oil that had been used in the engine.
Some people, when they use synthetic, use extended change intervals as long as one year. I have on some vehicles and seen no ill effect. I just changed the Mobil-1 in my lawn mower. The last change was 20 years ago. The mower doesn't need oil added often, maybe an ounce or so every few years. Only one of my cars using Mobil-1 has needed oil added between changes and that is my newest car, a 2003 model.