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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Colin-
    Thanks.
    You reminded me that my would be due for a changed.
    Had mine changed @ ~10k. The tech that did my car recommended that it be changed ~10-15k. In his own words, in layman's term, "It's like the kidney of the engine. That goes, everything else will follow." $25.00, IIRC, is a worthy expense.

    -Dave
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    um, it's not nearly a kidney but if your PCV becomes plugged, crankcase pressure will rise and that leads to two likely scenarios:

    1) oil rings begin to fail, leading to oil consumption

    2) oil foams, which breaks it down rapidly and the resulting loss of quality can lead to wear, rust and even sludge especially when oil change intervals are long.

    but yeah a PCV shouldn't be neglected. ;-)

    -Colin
  • quonquon Member Posts: 7
    Hi,

    This PCV valve thread has been very informative. The pictures from
    the i-forum were dead on for locating the PCV valve even on my Forester.
    I will be ordering a replacement part soon. Interestingly enough,
    the factory service manuals (FSM), doesn't even mention it in the
    general maintenance section. Even the Haynes manuals for
    the Legacy says it should be inspected very 60K miles.

    So, in addition to PCV valve replacement, can you guys recommend
    other maintenance procedures not explicitly culled out in the
    FSM and their intervals?

    Off the top of my head, I can think of :
    * Upper/lower radiator hoses
    * Radiator cap

    OK, the FSM does recommend inspecting the hoses, but it
    doesn't actually say to replace them unless there is
    something wrong.

    Thanks,

    Ken

    P.S. The black foam on the top of my radiator has virtually disintegrated.
    I've tried taping it back, however, it didn't work very well. I guess it isn't
    that important. My guess is that air flow to the radiator is reduced
    somewhat. Has anyone tried replacing it?
  • dukephotodukephoto Member Posts: 49
    Hey Juice-

    I was just reading an article in Businessweek Magazine Online on the Auto Industry, and they mention an A.J.Teixeira who looked at 7 vehicles before getting a Subaru Wagon.
    Is that anybody we know and love????
    It took looking at that many to decide on a Subie?

    Dukephoto
  • quonquon Member Posts: 7
    In case anyone wants to read the article

    mentioned in #5427, here's the link:


    http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/02_28/b3791001.htm

  • dry_flydry_fly Member Posts: 12
    Hi: I have a 2001 Forester S with about 27000 miles. I am curious if anyone has had any problems with the "Check engine" light coming on? I had the light come on in late April of this year. The dealer tried their computer diagnosis, which said something was wrong with the ECU. They said it needed to be reprogrammed. So it was sent back to Michigan (?) and the thing was back in three days. Well the light came on again yesterday, and I'll be going back to the dealer again.
    My questions are these:
    Are problems with the ECU common? Does reprogramming get at the problem or does the unit need to be replaced? Why does the ECU ever need reprogramming? And lastly, is there a real problem which the reprogramming or replacement might cover up? I get the feeling the dealer is not looking past the initial computer diagnosis or ECU problems. TIA
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I'm planning to change the plugs and wires in the next month or two.

    Any comments on brands, especially for the wires?

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • joe_sinjoe_sin Member Posts: 32
    Subaru recently sent out "recall" notices for the WWF89 technical update. This involves a programming update for the ECU that (as I understand it) corrects an oversensitivity condition that causes the Check Engine Light to come on when it shouldn't. If memory serves, and I have the details right, one of the O2 sensors sometimes also needs replacement. I'd find out whether that update had been performed on your car. Did you receive the recall notice?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My dad got one for his 2001 Outback, so you should get one soon (same powertrain).

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    One of the theories behind Toyota's sludge problems was a faulty PCV valve.

    Hey, that's me! They even spelled my name correctly. And it was Edmunds that put me in touch with them. :-)

    One correction, though: we didn't "settle" for a Legacy, we "moved up" to a Legacy. ;-)

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Not sure about who is getting the recall. I never got one for my 01 GT. And when I check for recalls at My.subaru none are listed. Perhaps it is more specific than just model year.

    bit
  • dry_flydry_fly Member Posts: 12
    I have not received a recall notice. I looked at the technical service bulletins (at alldata.com) and there don't seem to be any bulletins there about the ECU. I won't be able to get in to the shop until Wednesday, but I will mention the update. However, is it possible that I got the update back in late April when the light first came on?
  • dry_flydry_fly Member Posts: 12
    Hi:

    I originally posted this in the Subaru Problem group, but I will also post it here. The responses seem to revolve around an upgrade to the ECU programming and/or O2 sensors. The service people had said that is what happened in late April. Any other ideas? I'll be bringing it in this Wednesday due to their work schedule.

    I have a 2001 Forester S with about 27000 miles. I am curious if anyone has had any problems with the "Check engine" light coming on?

    I had the light come on in late April of this year. The dealer tried their computer diagnosis, which said something was wrong with the ECU. They said it needed to be reprogrammed. So it was sent back to Michigan (?) and the thing was back in three days. And it has not come on until now.

    Well the light came on again Saturday, and I'll be going back to the dealer again.

    My questions are these:

    Are problems with the ECU common?
    Does reprogramming get at the problem or does the unit need to be replaced?
    Why does the ECU ever need reprogramming?
    And lastly, is there a real problem which the reprogramming or replacement might cover up?

    I get the feeling the dealer is not looking past the initial computer diagnosis or ECU problems.

    TIA
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    According to the NGK website, the recommended plug for 2000 Subaru's is a platinum PFR5B-11. I''m seeing it priced at about $12 EACH at some websites!

    What plugs are you using and at what price? I've seen platinum Champions locally at $2.

    Any advice? (No way I'd pay $12 for a spark plug!)
    TIA.

    Jim
  • My local Subaru dealer charges $2.69 each for the recommended plugs. They're not platinum, though.

    Ty
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    don't buy the platinum plugs. use the NGK BKR-6E copper "v-power" plug and change them every 20k miles for optimal performance and economy. these plugs are less than $2 each at major autoparts chains such as Pepboys, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto Parts.

    plug changes are easy on a SOHC Subaru, so there's no reason to shy away from them.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Anyone know what date of the print version of that magazine has me quoted? Is it the current edition?

    I usually get Bosch platinum, and they are under $2 per. I haven't changed my plugs yet, though.

    dry_fly: CELs are common (and not just for Subaru), and really not a big concern unless the light is blinking.

    You can blame the feds. On Board Diagnostics Level II (OBDII) is a requirement for all new cars, so something as simple as a loose gas cap must trigger the light. Even worse, you must have a Dealer reset the light, because the feds didn't want people ignoring a potential environmental hazard.

    Leave it to them to protect us from ourselves. But the good news is it's usually no big deal, just have it checked anyway.

    -juice
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    I have a 99 Forester L and the recall notice I got was for a faulty air sensor which if it fails causes the CEL light to go on and as far as the tech states only this is changed and not any ECU programming. Its and actual emissions sensor.
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Quick question: Did Mobil 1 change its name to Mobil Clean? Or, is it only Mobil 1 with SuperSyn now? Is there any difference between the 2? I had put in Mobil 1 about 3 months ago, before the name changes. When I went to KMart to pick some up(raincheck for 2 cases at $1/qt), they had the SuperSyn and Clean so I held off getting any.

    Also, I believe that you folks recommended synthetic transmission/differential fluid as weel for better shifting. Which one is necessary on a MT.

    Thanks again for all the help!

    Mark
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Mark-
    Almost trip over a skid at COSTCO when I saw the carton, my eyes was affixed to the carton whilst advancing for a closer look.
    Mobil1 (TriSyn) is now SupeSyn, I do believe.
    I think the Mobil Clean is the Dino/Syn Blend.

    -Dave
  • pgh4pgh4 Member Posts: 13
    For anyone who might be interested, the hesitation and stalling problem on my 2000 O.B. has been fixed. Car finally gave a code pointing to an oxygen sensor. It was replaced and car is running great as it always did prior. Thanks to all for shared thoughts and suggestions...
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Don't use M1 in the tranny. I would recommend Amsoil standard synthetic gear oil 75W90 for less chance of grinding.
    YMMV

    -Dennis
  • jregen7243jregen7243 Member Posts: 91
    Does anyone else here beside me insist on having their wheels balanced with the weights on the inside only?? Only reason I do this is to keep the wheels looking new, but I'm getting tired of the steering wheel vibrating over 70mph. I've had them rebalanced several times, and everywhere I go they warn me that the steering wheel will vibrate. Anyone else out there who balances on the inside only??

    Jon
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Dave and Dennis.

    Dave- I know Costco carries Mobil 1, it just seems they never have 10W30 in stock.

    Dennis- Someplace like PepBoys should carry the Amsoil, correct?

    Mark
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Jon,

    I have the tire folks put weights wherever they are needed, but ONLY stick-on weights. The factory (for most vehicles) hammer-on rim flange weights tear up a nice wheel in short order.

    -Colin
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Based on it starting up normally again after you'd regained your composure, it points even more strongly to some bad gas. I was fairly certain this was what you'd say.

    The loss of braking was in fact a normal loss of power assist, but the increased effort can be disconcerting. If you were ever faced with a stalled engine again and want to stop, don't repeatedly pump the brake, simply push down normally and don't let up until you're stopped. There is a reserve of power assist that lasts about 3 pumps. The steering assist has no such reserve and when the engine stops so does the assist. Guess you now know what it was like for your grandmother to drive a car, eh? Heh.

    In sum, I'm 99.99% sure you got bad gas with some water in it and it will not happen again with quality gas. However, this makes my recommendation to get some HEET in the tank more urgent if you live in an area where it's freezing at night. It's available at virtually any auto parts store and most service stations. All you do is pour it in the fuel tank. The most annoying part will be breaking the tenacious seal or prying off the lid. I don't know why they make this such a pain, but they do. Probably a DOT regulation to transport this chemical and avoid spills.

    The reason I say it's more urgent is that water is heavier than fuel. Any water in your tank settles at the bottom where the fuel intake resides that feeds the engine. If you have water in the tank, another stall may be in your future. Worse, the water can settle into the lowest part of your fuel line at night and freeze into a solid plug. You will be unable to start the car at this point. If it happens, the car will have to be towed into a heated area so the water plug melts, but then you're still back to the stalling issue.

    I put a can of HEET in every vehicle I own each fall, and again in the spring. All vehicles get some water in there from normal condensation and this ensures it gets combined into a burnable mixture and pulled through the engine without harm.

    Thanks for your kind words, BTW...

    IdahoDoug
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    jregen7243:

    If anyone tries to balance wheels with the weights only on the inside they will not have balanced wheels. Don't waste your money on "cosmetic" balancing and don't risk the excess wear on your tires. Get those wheels balanced properly.
  • rsayre2rsayre2 Member Posts: 1
    What's going on with Forester wheel bearings? The right rear ones in my 2000 Forester S had to be replaced @ 60K. Now, 10K miles later, the car's starting to make that noise again... A friend, who has a 2001 Forester S with less than 30K has had hers replaced *twice* already. A local mechanic (not Subaru) told me this happens a lot with Foresters and Imprezas. Is there any recourse??? Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Jon: my rims on the Forester have the stick-on weights on the inside of the rim. It's a cleaner look. But it may only work on certain types of rims (smooth surfaces on the inner side).

    I have never had any vibes in the steering, and she tracks beautifully.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes. I think there is a newer design, and they fit on the rear axle, but not the front. Ask for those.

    Also, the key was the installation procedure, not the part itself. It has to be torqued to specs, no more no less. The new design is just more fault tolerant, but the mistake is made during the installation, not in manufacturing the part.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So long as you use GL5 rated gear oil it shouldn't be a problem. I run GL5 Synthetic Redline and no grinding or anything.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    You can get Amsoil direct from them (amsoil.com), or from a distibutor. I got mine from an i-clubber at a pretty decent discount. He's not a dealer any longer though.

    -Dennis
  • jregen7243jregen7243 Member Posts: 91
    I don't know why the factory puts those rusty metal weights on beautiful new wheels. Of all the advances that have been put into cars in recent years, you would think they would come up with something better. Not all OEMs put those weights on wheels. My father has a 2001 Lexus GS430 with 17" wheels, and they came with magnetic weights on the inside only. I'm definitely going to have my wheels balanced properly because I'm sick of the vibration. Thanks for all of the input.

    Jon
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    not all wheels are conductive to magnets.
    I would imagine alot is said 'bout the wheels if magnets do stick.
    What other metals are conductive to magnets besides iron, tin,...???

    -Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mine are stick-on. Some type of really tacky goo.

    -juice
  • stv99stv99 Member Posts: 2
    So what are the indications of a faulty wheel bearing? I think I might have the same problem.
    I have a 2001 Forester S+ with about 25K miles and hear a squealing noise from underneath the car. It occurs when i go foward or reverse from a standstill, with no braking of course. Ususally audible at about 5-10 mph.
    thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Our Mazda 626 had the front left one fail. I heard a speed-dependent chunk-chunk-chunk driving down the road. It got louder and louder with time, so we were able to fix it.

    It had 70k miles or so, but cost a rather painful $820 IIRC. The car was falling apart so we dumped it.

    -juice
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    The maintenance specifications don't mention O2 sensors or PCV valves at all.

    Prior posts provided a lot of evidence on the value of replacing the PCV valve. (Thanks!)

    What are your opinions on O2 sensors?

    Jim
  • dane7dane7 Member Posts: 4
    Bad wheel bearings will start out making a minimal noise and very slowly get louder. You should get plenty of warning. I had the wheel bearings replaced in my 94 maxima last year for about $50 per wheel.
  • jmulholljmulholl Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2000 legacy wagon with 45,000mi. Had a problem with hesitation in shifting, esp. going to 1st from 4th after a rolling stop. Seems the problem was a bad air fuel ratio sensor. Dealer said there was a "general recall" and replaced it. It made a big difference in response during shifting. Also seemed to cure engine vibration I was feeling in the driver's seat. Joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    wheel bearing noise can be hard to diagnose. Generally not a squeal, no. Much more subtle. More like a "ballsy-rumble" sound, a grinding noise that gets faster as the car goes faster, kinda like a washing machine pulse but far away in the next room in the closet.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    my opinion on an oxygen sensor is that given a good sensor, no exhaust leaks, and good low sulfur fuel they'll last upwards of 100k miles or more.

    if you haven't replaced one and you start experiencing driveability or economy problems it's something to try. they can be difficult to replace due to heat & cooling of the sensor and exhaust pipe...

    out of warranty, I would recommend Bosche oxygen sensors for any vehicle. you can get them at most autoparts stores.

    -Colin
  • woodsedgewoodsedge Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I bought a 2002 Subaru Forester L about 8 months ago. I can't begin to tell you how much I regret that purchase. It's a shame because I had a 1986 Subaru GL which I just loved and all the research I did suggested that I would have a similar experience with a Subaru GL. Quite the opposite. Outlined below are the problems my car is having:

    1. Gas tank: it doesn't fill completely. At first it filled to 3/4 tank. I took it to the dealer, who told me that the gas tank is in the shape of a horseshoe and goes around the transmission. In the middle of the horseshoe is a small valve, which apparently got clogged in my car. They had to take off the wheels and transmission to get to the gas tank, by the way. Anyway, the situation only got worse. Now I can only fill the tank to 1/2 tank. I took it back to the service guy who says it's a "trait of the car" and he won't try to fix it anymore.

    Air conditioning: It "cools" to 85 degrees. Service guy says that "everything works fine".

    Paint: the paint is chipping off on my 8 month old car. Dealer says that it's "normal" wear and not covered under warranty.

    Does anyone else have these problems?

    Can anyone give me any advice?

    I've contacted Subaru of America twice now. The first time I called and spoke to someone who was incredibly rude to me. She took down all the information and said someone would call me back, but they never did.

    The second time, I wrote them a letter. A different amazingly rude woman called me and told me that the Regional Service Manager would have to look at the car. I took it to him at the appointed hour. I was really excited, hoping that I'd get my problems resolved. I took him for a test drive, welcoming him into my Subaru world. Naturally, that was the ONLY time (honestly!) that the gas tank filled completely. Murphy's law, I guess.

    Interestingly, the air conditioning problem seemed to resolve itself for the moment. I have no doubts that it'll return.

    Any advice or help is welcome. Patti, I really hope to hear from you. Can you help?

    Cheers,
    Elizabeth
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Thanks,

    Jim
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    as the best used midsize value. See the home page for details.
  • goldencouple1goldencouple1 Member Posts: 209
    I'm afraid I have no advice. But I can assure you that our 2002 Forester is just great. We've had it about 9 months. No fuel related problems; great fuel efficiency; no problems at all. The air conditioner is fantastic, icy cold, and we are in southern New Mexico where the summer temps rise to over 100 on a regular basis.

    We have had regular contact with Subaru of America -- as I say, no problems, just for various non-problem reasons before and after our purchase -- and everyone at Subaru of America has always gone out of their way to be polite and helpful.

    I suppose there can be problem vehicles with every manufacturer, and it sounds like you've had the bad luck to get one. It sounds absolutely unbelievable that a dealer would try to tell you the things you've said were wrong with your car are normal! If you pursue getting these problems fixed, I'm confident that Subaru will straighten it out for you. From all I've seen on these boards Subaru does an excellent job at standing behind what they make and sell. Patti is a wonder and a blessing (as my mother would say). I know that in my family Subaru is what we drive: me, my brother, and my sister (Sis has two). Statistically (consulting Consumer Reports, for example) Subaru vehicles are very reliable and are recommended as used vehicles -- Subaru makes great cars, and the Foresters have proven to be very good cars, looking at the model as a whole.

    Good luck! I'm sure it will all work out.
  • ejharaejhara Member Posts: 8
    2001 Outback Wagon, 20K, 2.5 4 cylinder, auto--good car, very fast, 27 mpg.,valuable to have on icy days, etc. But . . . several small problems, and before I take it to dealer I'd like some advice. One: It pings on most gas, most of the time, esp. in summer. We're talking mid-grade here. Two: Engine hesitates upon first starting up in drive, almost stalls. Three: brakes continue to grind and squalk, esp. when car is cold. All of these problems cause me to "lose face" in the neighborhood. It doesn't sound like an almost-new car. It has had regular maintenance, is driven easily, and has displayed these characteristics since new. Again, thanks for any help.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, about $70. I replaced the one on my Miata and the mileage went up slightly, though it could have been attributed to other factors.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    One other person had trouble with their gas tank, somethig about the vapor recovery system, I think. I'd have a different dealer check it out, if you have another one no too far away.

    The newer A/C systems no longer use Freon and aren't quite as cold, but they should still cool well. If you park in the sun on a humid day, of course, it'll take a while for it to catch up. Consider tinted windows if you park in the sun every day, better yet find a garage. :-)

    Paint chips are a common complaint. But the cladding on the L model should help there. You might want to consider Invisibra or similar stick-on protection.

    ejhara: try resetting the ECU. Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, wait 30 minutes, then reconnect. Idle until warm. I bet that makes a difference. Your first tank will have low gas mileage, since it runs rich until it leans out the fuel mixture.

    Subaru came out with a "shim kit" fix for squeeky brakes, and those that got it reported good results. Ask your dealer about it.

    -juice
  • voochvooch Member Posts: 92
    joe_sin: I read your problems and they are pretty much the same thing I've been having. I have a 2000 Toyota Celica though. My gas mileage has been less than stellar. I've had two '84 Celicas that both got better mpg than this new one, which kinda irks me. I also get the rotten egg smell sometimes but I can only smell it when I am outside the car. I am really curious to find out if you can resolve the problem.

    I have had the car for a year and a half. I have gotten the egg smell less and less frequently over time while the mpg has been getting slowly better. It started at around 20-22 mpg, and I have a manual. I was expecting to get high 20's, 26 at the minimum with a standard and a 4 cylinder. At least like I've gotten with all the 4 cylinders I've owned in the past. Now I get around 23-24, 25-27 maybe if I do a lot of highway. I do 90% city driving though so I don't expect it to be 30+ unless I do all highway. I figured that I was just on the real low end of the average, since that's what the law of averages is all about. =)

    I will definitely be checking this board to see how your situation turns out! Good luck with it!
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