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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Cause all my owners manuals (subie and otherwise) always give the gap.

  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    It's in the manual under specifications.

    0.039 to 0.043 in., 1.0 to 1.1 mm

  • bg18947bg18947 Posts: 184
    Just checked, I don't see it in the 2000 Owner's Manual, nor do I see it in the Service Manual published by Helm. But, I believe it is on one of the vinyl labels in the engine compartment. What year Subaru do you have Frank?

  • On another Subaru board, there was a posting from
    I have been thinking about getting a deflector or bra for my '01 VDC-now have paint chips- A VERY BIG :(
    Anyone have one of these magnetic bras?
    They claim no paint fading, rubbing, etc., but you can never believe a salesman.
    But you guys I trust......

  • tyguytyguy ColoradoPosts: 1,172
    Well, this is a new one for me. I've never heard of the magnetbra before, but I do have a couple of thoughts.

    First, make sure the paint surface is absolutely free of all water, dirt and dust before applying the bra. Anything caught between the bra and paint will cause paint damage.

    Second, the fact that there is no fading or oxidation is actually a problem. No matter how we care for the paint not covered by the bra, it's still going to oxidize and change color because of UV exposure and environmental fallout. It's a fact of life, paint colors change with age. Since the paint under the bra is protected, it will not change as readily as the rest of the paint. Hence, in time you will see a difference in the paint colors when you remove the bra.

    Third, since it's not bolted down, I have a lingering concern about wind lifting the edges and even possibly shifting the bra. The website claims this doesn't happen, but I still wonder.

    On the other hand, the website is absolutely correct about the problems with vinyl bras and bug shields. They too have their drawbacks. If you're paint finish was new, I'd recommend a Clear Bra or Invizibra. Since you already have chips, though, don't use these since the existing damage will just show through.

    If you go with a magnetbra, let us know how it goes!
    2015 Subaru Outback, 2013 Audi A4
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Like my other two cars, at around 120K the valve covers started leaking. Is this a normal issue with the H-6, or did I just have a run of bad luck?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    What H6 do you have? XT6 or SVX?

  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    Got it out of the PDF I downloaded from Subaru for my '01 Forester. I didn't actually look in the paper version, but I will, just out of curiosity. In the PDF it is under Specifications/Electrical System.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Interesting concept, and I am in the market for some sort of paint protection for my new Bean. If it weren't for the questionable looking edge trim on the magnet bra, I would order one of these and give it a try.

    I would worry about moisture and abrasive stuff getting under there, no matter what the website says. As a teenager, I drove a lot of construction trucks with magnetic signs. After a few months, they would always collect moisture and abrasive stuff that would "buff" away the finish underneath.

    No matter what these guys say, there is nothing to stop moisture from getting under the magnet bra. Any two surfaces in close contact with each other will really wick moisture in (capillary effect) unless there is something in between (adhesive) to block it.

    At $45, it may be worth a try. I think the invisibra is still a better choice, or even the hood deflector. Subaru deflectors have a good design that shouldn't damage the paint at all.

  • dan2001dan2001 Posts: 17
    Just had my first bumper scuff/scrape on my 2001. I'm heart broken. It was enough to actually lose some paint off the plastic bumper.
    Where is the best place to buy touch up paint? Or should I have the dealer take a try at it?

    Thanks, Dan
  • leo2633leo2633 Posts: 589
    On Sunday I was driving my '01 Forester S through an unfamiliar parking lot when I struck a curb that was hidden under a pile of snow. I hit it on an angle and really felt a jolt, even though I wasn't going very fast. Actually, I was turning, and was probably doing about 5 MPH or less. I got out and checked, and to my horror, saw that there was a gouge in my alloy wheel. It was at the very edge of the rim, but there didn't appear to be any major damage. The next morning, I checked the air pressue and found that it was 8 PSI low. I took it to a tire shop to be checked and found there was a small pinhole leak, dead center in the side wall, a couple inches off from where I hit the curb. They said they could put in a tube, but I didn't like that idea, even for use as a spare. So, I forked over $117 for a new Yoko Geo, which, of course, was not in stock. It will be in this afternoon, so I have to go back and have it mounted. I know I could have gotten one from Tire Rack for about $76, but I didn't want to wait. I'm glad that the wheel wasn't damaged, other than a relatively small cosmetic blemish. I have an appointment at the dealer in 2 weeks, so I'll have them check the front end for any damage or misaligment, but everything else seems OK. Maybe the tire gave it's life for the rest of the suspension. And at such a young age (only 16K). It's been a bad weekend. I fell and broke my wrist at work on Saturday. Arghhhh! Hopefully my streak of bad luck is over for now.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    But you should have them check the circumference of the other tires v. the new tire. If it is less than 1/4" you may need to get 4 tires.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Isn't the gap listed under the hood or something like that? Anyone want to check?

    Dan: touch-up paint is something like $5, so I'd just go to the nearest dealership.

    Len: bummer. Life come in cycles, so you're due for a bout of good fortune.

    120k on an H6? Was that a typo? Do you drive for a living?

  • ramonramon Posts: 825
    it's 1mm or 0.04" for you yanks. =)
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    Sorry to hear about your streak of bad luck. I'm sure once you get the new tire installed, things will be better!

  • Does this seem right?? seems high to me!!

    Subaru of Wilton, Inc. 657 Danbury Road * Wilton, CT 06897 Phone (203) 761-9700 Fax (203) 761-0213


    Color Year Make/model VIN License MILEAGEIN/OUT
    Silver 98 LEGACY WAGON 4S31BK4352W7312113 59605/59608
    Rate INV. Date
    75.00 15JAN02


    9752 VICTOR WINIGER LIC#: 9752
    CP 2.50 187.50 187.50
    1 26296AA062 BRAKE PAD KIT R 72.50 72.50 72.50
    1 BC11 BRK CLEAN 5.95 5.95 5.95


    @9752 9752 VICTOR WINIGER
    CP 0.00 0.00 0.00

    Description Totals
    Labor amount 200.98
    Parts amount 88.92
    Gas, oil, lube
    Misc. charges 2.66
    Total charges 292.56
    Sales Tax 17.56
    Pay this amount 310.12
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    With drums I believe they have to take them off the car to machine them. Discs can be resurfaced with an on-car lathe. So drums may cost more.

    It wasn't just the pads, FWIW.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My dad just paid $350 for 4 to be redone @ midas with replacement rear rotors. So $300 @ the dealer isn't bad for what you had done.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Well, I just ordered some 3M paint protection film from They sell a custom kit for the Outback that covers the hood leading edge and the mirrors for $99. I added in some tools to bring the total to $125 or so.

    I was skeptical about doing this myself, but after going through the FAQ and install pictures on their web site, it doesn't look that bad. Certainly, the Outback's hood is far less complicated than some of the other cars on the road. I used to install stripes and decals on boats, and this looks to be about the same or easier. We'll see. Hopefully I will get a chance to put the stuff on this weekend.

  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    I checked my '01 Forester's paper Owner's Manual today and it has the gap listed exactly as the PDF version does, in Specifications/electrical.

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I meant to write H-4. But I was hoping that the engine cam cover seals would last longer than 125K. I also had to replace the Cam and Crankshaft Seals at 70,000. Is this a general issue with this vehicle, or have the engine seals been holding up better on models newer than my 1991?
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    don't see it in the 2000 Outback pdf in specs/electrical, but can confirm that the alignment figures are there. it does list the plug types, just no gap figure.

    guess I could go look in the real booklet in the car. ;)

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Does anyone here have experience with aftermarket brake pads on their Subies? Just thinking ahead here, but at some point I'll need to replace the pads on my 98 Forester S.

    I was wondering if there are pads out there that are rotor-friendly but offer better street performance than the stock pads.

    Also, would I gain much by going with aftermarket rotors too? Again, I'm looking for a pure street application. Any comments on cryo-treating? ;-)

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Ken I researched pads quite a bit when I was autocrossing seriously (and still have my eye out today) but IMO the answer is no, there's nothing better than stock.

    Additionally, some rear pad sizes are hard to source. The WRX / H6 Outback brake pad will be easy to find at all four corners for most any common high performance street pad, naturally... but I still don't think for pure street there's a pad that's better than stock when it's all considered: dust, noise, life, cold friction, hot friction, operating temperature.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    I was afraid of that. I've been searching around on i-club but everyone seems to have one opinion or another about aftermarket pads. Mintex, Axxis, EBC...they all seem to have one drawback or another. My stock pads have been quiet and nearly dust free, OTOH.

    So, is there no low-cost mod that would improve all-around brake performance?

  • mike (and others) I was talking to a friend of mine who ran a muffler shop for 20+ yrs ( his son still does) and we got on the subject of midas shops doing everything now (brakes tune ups etc) And he said that brakes are real big business for midas. They turn your rotors/drums each time they service brakes - the hitch... they remove the maximum amount of material instead of only what is necessary. FWIW - it is just one person's story but I remember they used to say in radio ads "lifetime guarantee (all you pay for is parts and labor)"
    Kinda scary
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    Len, Sorry to hear about both the tire and wrist. A lousy weekend overall. Hope the week goes better....

    Shortlid, While it sounds high for a single axle brake job, the diagnostics for the shifting problem might have eaten as much as an hour of that labor. Take that off and it sounds closer to the $130-160 I hear for the typical 2 wheel job at dealers today.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    there was a problem with the material used for the seal gaskets which was rectified in the last few years so they are supposed to last further than they did on your 91. I had to have them replaced twice on my 92 and once on my 98.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yep, the 80s and early 90s are known for bad seals. I have a leak valve cover seal on my XT6. It isn't too bad so I just add some extra oil now and again.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ken: Pat had his rotors coated and I think cross-drilled. If nothing else, it looks cool. Lucien got aftermarket pads for his Outback, IIRC.

    Maybe those guys will chime in.

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