Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

paisan

My dad's legacy L needed tires at 25K miles and my '97 Rodeo needed a battery after 2 years. To me those items are wear and tear, not something I would even consider complaining to the dealer about. Just my 2 cents.

On the climate control, that's how my trooper's works as well. It's nice to override the A/C for a little extra boost when needed

-mike

subearu

Yep, our '00 Outback is an automatic with the rear LSD.

-Brian

locke2c

Then I think the "bang" is probably the 4EAT's multiplate clutch engaging, and doing so in dramatic fashion. A viscous limited slip shouldn't "bang".

The clutch pack disengaged is just dragging the (rear) driveshaft, which gives the default ratio that SOA calls 90% FWD 10% RWD. The RWD is just drag. The bang is probably when all the clutches dramatically engage in response to the front wheel slip, suddenly putting a lot of power to the rear wheels.

-Colin

kens

Alan,

38K on a clutch is short. As it turns out some of the earlier 98 Foresters had weak pressure plates that caused premature clutch wear.

When was the date of manufacture on your son's 98 Forester? I think you can read it off a stamped metal plate that can be found if you open the driver's side door and look all the way down the B-pillar right by the edge of your vehicle. I've heard that 5-speed Foresters and Impreza 2.5 RSs manufactured before 3/98 have this problem.

I also own a 98 Forester 5-speed (manf. date of 01/98) and my clutch began to chatter at around 22K miles. I brought it into the dealer and they replaced the clutch assembly under warranty. The result was much smoother engagement including a lighter clutch pedal. I'm at 51K miles now and so far so good.

Try working with your dealer on this one. Did your son document any tell-tale signs of clutch problems?

As for alignment issues, I haven't really had any nor have I heard of any problems. I replaced my orignal tires at about 45K miles, but I probably could have gone at least another 5K.

I'm also on my original battery.

Ken

armac13

I think you a right about the "bang". When I tried really abusing my '01 S in very mixed icy surfaces I too got a bit of bang, very consistent with your suggestion.

Ross

locke2c

There have been and continue to be problems with the clutch (pressure plate, mainly) on any year of 2.5L MT-- at least through MY01. FHI apparently refuses to use a stiff enough pressure plate even though there have been many revisions of it.

(edit: those who know me know that I love my Subaru. However, there is a real problem here and if FHI won't fix it, then don't waste your money on a stock clutch. There are plenty of aftermarket sources, ask about them in Modifications.)

The stock clutch only survives with luck and very smooth engagement (which few MT drivers have) ...and NO towing or autocross.

-Colin

aakerson

Thanks for the inputs and insights on the clutch, battery and alignment problems on my son's Forester. I burned out a clutch myself on a Legend a few years ago, but that was at 85K miles. (Also destroyed the tranmission, but that is another story). Your comments reassure me about the Forester. Nine Subarus for our family and this is the first significant problem. bought a VDC a month ago, engine light went on, but got fixed. And people on this website explained the problem was just a loose gas cap. My gosh -- you people here are Subaru-knowledgeable -- and Subaru-loyal as well. Thanks again.

ateixeira

Sonny: I've heard other describe the rear LSD's action in a similar fashion. Viscous LSDs react to slippage and then engage, in your case rather quickly. You may want to ask a dealer to make sure the gear oil level is OK. You just open the upper plug, and the oil should be right at that level.

Alan: you should have gone in 2k miles ago. Even though clutches are wear and tear, and not covered under the B2B, dealers might be more responsive. My friend's Rodeo needed a clutch at 30k miles, still under warranty, and he had to pay for it.

I agree with Colin - replace it with an aftermarket clutch.

I think 38k miles before your first alignment is a long time. Some people do this every 30k miles as routine maintenance.

Just my 2 cents worth.

-juice

logger2

Well I finally received word back from Subaru Canada about my claim. It seems they will do nothing about my concerns. Any suggestions on my next course of action, if any??

Jason

locke2c

Refresh my memory... what post # did you describe the problem in?

-Colin

kens

Does anyone know of a good body shop in the Bay Area the specializes on Subarus? Had a minor fender-bender this weekend:

kens "Subaru Crew - Meet The Members II" Feb 26, 2001 9:27am

Ken

ateixeira

Bummer. Just don't go to the same shop Kate used.

-juice

bat1161

Has anyone replaced the air filter yet? The manual recommends either 12 months or 7500 miles. I am going to have to bring my OB in for the 7500 mile tire rotation and LOF. Technically I am supposed to have the filter changed when I hit 9000 miles. My question is this: should I have them do it now, or wait a little longer. The filter was added to the car in mid October, so can I wait a while longer? Is there a big difference between waiting the year or should I just go by mileage? BTW I am not that mechanically inclined, that is why I would have the shop do the filter replacement.

Thanks,
Mark

ateixeira

You mean the interior air filter, right? The engine air filter only needs to be changed every 30k miles (I changed mine then and that seemed about right).

The interior filter is a bit harder to change in the OB, vs. Forester or Impreza. There are two, I believe, and you have to remove the glove compartment.

Still, I doubt it's very dirty since October. It actually would depend on how often you run the HVAC system. If you open the windows a lot and hardly use it, I'm sure they're clean.

-juice

bat1161

It is the interior air filter. I usually ride with the slector set to fresh for the air flow. I used the AC some, and I have used the heater quite a bit so far this winter. It just seems a little too soon to be changing. Also, do you think the dealer would object if I bring them the filter? Darlene has them listed for $31.15; the dealer wants $43.95. Another thing: would it pay to buy the filters by the case, rather than as I need them? Thanks again.

Mark

paisan

But it isn't good edicate to bring parts to your dealer/mechanic and say "listen I got this part cheaper elsewhere" $10 extra isn't gonna break the bank, IMHO. I personally wouldn't do it unless you like getting borderline warranty issues turned back to you in the future. The only time I've done something like that is when a dealer couldn't get a particular part and they said "if you find the parts we'll put em in for yah"

-mike

tincup47

It's kind of the same thing. Most dealer's will install owner supplied parts, but you could have issues down the road. This is especially true for aftermarket parts.

bat1161

Makes sense. Just figured since I was going to order one or two other things from Darlene, why not this as well. Thats why I asked for your opinions. I figure, better to ask and get corrected now, rather than not ask, and mess up later.

Mark

ateixeira

I agree with paisan. The few bucks aren't worth losing good will with your service shop.

Too bad it's not like the Forester or Impreza. In those, you just remove two screws, and slide one filter out.

-juice

paisan

I wouldn't take my car to that dealer to begin with. It's worth the trip down to Flemington Subaru/Isuzu (about 45min from SI) cause they actually do work on sat and their customer service is much better than the place on SI.

-mike

krisb2

I'm interested in changing the ATF fluid in my 95 Legacy. In reading the manual, I noticed that they recommend using a new washer on the drain plug. Has anyone else done an ATF fluid change themselves, and where did you find a new washer? Also, can anyone comment on how difficult it is to change the fuel filter?

Thanks,
Kris

royallen

Kris: I changed my '95 Legacy AT fluid a few months age and recall it having a solid aluminum washer which I reused. I watched for a leak, saw a drop or two and re-torqued the plug resulting in no further leak.
The fuel filter I have yet to do, but looks very easy, located high in the engine compartment just in front of the driver, two hose clamps to loosen and a clamp around the filter. Manual suggests having a cold engine, placing newspaper under the work area. Be sure "in" is from tank and "out" is to engine and start engine when done and look for any leak at hose clamps. Time for an email to Darlene for the part.

ateixeira

Here are photos and instructions for the fuel filter change on my Forester. Yours should be similar. It's easy, so knock yourself out:

http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/30k2.html

-juice

krisb2

Thanks for the info guys. Man, is this a great board or what - I ask a question last evening, and I get two perfect answers this morning, with pictures.

Thanks again,
Kris

ateixeira

Thanks. I just wish homepage.com were more reliable. I may move all my photos to photopoint - much better.

-juice

bat1161

Thanks Mike. I remember you saying that someone other than SI was alot better. I just could not remeber who. I have to agree that these boards provide a great advantage for info.
Thanks again,
Mark

cburian

I broke off the power antenna on my 95 Legacy wagon. I bought the
replacement element, but now I can't figure out how to remove the
old one. There's a prong on the new one that looks like it would
lock inside of the motor housing--is there a tiny peep hole or
something where you must push with a paper clip? Or do you twist
it out? Do you need access to the outside of the housing (by
pulling out the car's interior moulding), or can replacement be
done entirely from the outside? I had the nut off and rubber body
gasket off, but couldn't get any farther than that. Dealer wants
$100 labor... Has anyone here done this before, or does anyone
have a service manual? Thanks for your help!

Regards,
Chris

cburian

The AT TEMP light on my 95 Legacy Wagon flashes for a few seconds at startup. The owner's manual says this means the transmission control system is malfunctioning and to bring it in for service right away. What does this generally mean? What can I expect for cost to fix? What happens if I ignore it?

Thanks,
Chris

ateixeira

Chris - Miata.net has a really good garage section. I bet most of these are pretty much built in the same way, so it may be worth a read.

Newer Soobs have antennae in the glass or fixed, so few people here even have them.

Chris: ignore it at the perile of your transmission. Check the level of your automatic transmission fluid (ATF), and add some if necessary. See if that turns off the light.

If not, get it serviced ASAP. It could be as simple as draining and refilling the ATF, or far worse. My price guesstimate would vary wildly, anywhere from $60 to $800.

Now that I think about it, I'd have the ATF drained and refilled even if the light does go off. Paying for a few quarts and an hour of labor is cheap insurance to save your tranny.

-juice

paisan

Yeah $800 is low, IIRC an Auto-trans run around $1500-1800 nowadays if not more for a sube.

-mike

hondafriek

Chris, unfortuately there is no easy way to remove the broken mast on your antennae, you have to grab the mast ,slide it down into the housing then pull it straight up as hard as you can, it may take several attempts but it will come out you then have to engage the drive teeth by feeding them in while an assistant retracts the antennae by turning the radio on and off this is also a fiddly operation so have patience this is why the dealer wants $100 labour.
Cheers Pat.

krisb2

Juice,

I was checking out your site re: how to change the fuel filter. If I'm not mistaken, there should be pressure in the fuel line. How did you keep from spilling gas everywhere? Did you clamp off the line first, and if so, with what? Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question

Thanks,
Kris

ateixeira

It's actually a smart question.

There wasn't much pressure when I did it, but in hindsight I would now be more careful.

You should open your gas cap to relieve any pressure there may be in the tank. I have since used QuikGrip clamps to close fuel lines. Any C-clamp will do - just be careful not to pinch the fuel line.

It's hard not to spill a little, but try to keep the openings facing upwards to minimize this. Also, you can remove one line and place it on the new filter, then to the same with the other line.

Fuel spills from the filter itself, though. Have an oil pan or something ready to catch that.

When everything is in place, make sure it's dry and nothing leaks. Close the fuel cap nice and tight (no CEL!), and crank it up.

-juice

thors_hammer

Has anyone heard from Darlene at Qsubaru? I've been emailing her for a couple of weeks. Thanks.
-B

royallen

Bryan: I had an email order disappear early in February, then connected with a repeat. You could call her 800-287-1281.

pattim3

Once you have the old one out, it's a good idea to take a look inside. If you see a lot of nasty stuff, you may want to think about the fuel you are using. We had someone with a complaint about poor MPG's. The fuel filter was a bit telling about the quality of fuel that had been in the car.

Just a thought - - -

Patti

ateixeira

Mine looked fine. That gas in it looked clean, and I use regular from a variety of stations.

So if you find gunk in there, change brands of fuel.

-juice

ramon

Arrghh!!! Hello, Some of you might know me from cars like the 1999 Impreza Outback Sport and 90s blue Miata ... well recently I got a swell deal on the last remaining virgin 2001RS.
Wasup with this stupid clutch!? It's been 3 days, and I have yet to get used to it! the clutch is so darn difficult to modulate compared to my OBS! I feel like a manual newbie again in the streets. Grrr.... Still not as bad as the 330Ci's clutch tho. But stil sucks! Sorry need to vent.

ateixeira

If you're getting shuddering as it engages, some of them did this. They were supposed to be fixed by now, though.

It should get better as it breaks in.

-juice

logger2

Hi, still digging about the problems with my forester. I found out that one of the wheel bearings was changed and then about 20,000 kms later it failed again. Anybody else here have this problem?

Also, is it difficult to change the front speakers in the forester - I want to upgrade mine to match my Sony CD deck. I think that they are 5 inch round speakers, correct?

Thanks

ateixeira

Yes, no, and no.

Yes, the bearings are a common problem. Seems that they are badly overtorqued and this dramatically affects their life expectancy. Ask for replacements installed at proper torque specs.

No, speakers are not difficult to swap, and no, I think the fronts are 6.5". There rears are 5" IIRC. Check with Crutchfield, though. Lots of folks have replaced the speakers and ordered from them.

-juice

ramon

It feels like it is engaging on off style.

kens

juice,

How's your clutch been holding out? You also have an early rev assembly. Could it be your gentle driving sytle?

Ken

ateixeira

My clutch is good.

I may drive gently, but you should see my SO behind the wheel. Talk about abuse!

I think I will have the tranny looked over when the Miata gets out of the body shop, though. No rush, I guess, but let me know how your fix goes.

-juice

kens

Just spoke to the service manager at Santa Cruz Subaru -- my tranny's back in and they're going to test drive it today. I should be able to pick it up tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Ken

dsackman

Does that mean you will have to give the OB Sedan back? Now that you are getting accustomed to it.

Pity!

Daniel

kate5000

Anyone has step-by-step instructions (preferrably with pix) on how to change bulbs in the Loyale's headlights? If not, will instructions for the Forester suffice, you think?

kate5000

which ones you'd recommend? It's for a very old car, so I don't want to spend much money on it...

Can I can get something significantly brighter than whatever cheapest stuff I had before (was it some low-end Sylvania from Pep-boys?) for, say, 20% more in cost, I'd be interested to try it out.

ateixeira

Well, you can get Sylvanias for $5 to $10 per bulb. Those are your basic halogens.

I paid $26 for a pair of Hella H4+30 (they call them Hella Xenons). I believe the Phillips bulbs are better but cost a little more than that, $32 seems to ring a bell.

I'm not sure what type of bulb the Loyale uses, so I wouldn't know about the install. For the Forester, you have to peel back the rubber insulator, pop the locking pin out, then remove the bulb (don't touch the glass).

-juice

PS Ken: let me know. The Miata is ready, but I may wait until the threat of snow subsides before taking mine in

rob999

I'm considering getting the Recaro 'Style' model seats for my OB wagon. I would like better support and adjustment capability during long trips for both the driver AND passenger sides as my wife and I trade off driving time. (The Recaro web site shows that Legacy mounting brackets are available.)

Unfortunately, none of my local interior shops stock these seats, although they promise "BUT WE CAN GET THEM FOR YOU" if I prepay. Before I spend the $, I'd like a little more assurance that they're gonna solve my needs. Have any of you ridden/driven a car equipped with the 'Style' seats, and what were your impressions?

Also, can anyone recommend a good online source for Recaro seats? I'm mechanically competent enough to install them myself.
---------

Starting at 70-75 mph my 5spd shifter emits a loud and constant buzz. Gripping the shifter firmly doesn't quiet the sound, so the source of the buzz must emanate from further down below.
Anyone have a similar issue?
How do you remove the woodgrain trim and shifter boot from around the stick? I'd like to take a quick look-see to determine if there's anything obvious before I have to go thru the inconvenience of scheduling a day in the shop.