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Comments
You may want to check the level of the tranny oil. The other thing it could be is the grease in the shift lever ball joint, but that requires taking the center console apart.
These photos will help out a lot:
http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/juice2/page18.html
-juice
Kate -- One other point to add to juice's comments is that I believe Sylvania has a "Xtra Bright" bulb that they also sell at Pep Boys for only a slight premium over standard halogens. Those might provide some extra performance for a low price.
Ken
Jason
Here's the Subaru instructions for removing the shifter trim. Pop up the end closest to the hand brake first the pull back at the top.
http://www.bitman.com/soobdash/
bit
If you can wait and want to spend a lot of time vulturing, you might try to acquire a set of WRX seats from someone that upgrades to racing buckets. It will happen, guaranteed.
Thought #2
Mechanical competence turning 4 bolts to install seats with the proper Subaru rails is not a question. The question is whether the seat can be ordered with brackets/rails that are 100% compatible with Subaru and if not, then you better be pretty crafty at small metal fabrication to make your own brackets.
I have not seen too many complimentary words said about the fitment of some aftermarket seat rails (Corbeau, Sparco, OMP). I haven't seen any comments about Recaro though.
-Colin
I spoke to the Service Manager there, John Dicochea and he explained that in some of the 98s, the gear hub had a little too much play on the shaft causing it to knock the transmission out of gear. There is a new assembly available that has a tighter fit.
He also went above and beyond the call of duty and installed new seals on the inner axle joints to prevent the axle grease from leaking out. He noticed that there was early signs of leakage so he did the installation while my Forester was there.
For anyone in the Bay Area -- Santa Cruz Subaru is really worth the trip over the "hill".
It felt great to get back into my vehicle. While I was sad to leave the plush OB Ltd. Sedan behind, it was nice to be able to shift through my own gears (which felt crisp thanks to the new tranny gear oil) and hear the growl of my DOHC engine. Also, it was great to have the reassuring solid feel of my brakes -- I nearly went out the front windshield at the first stop sign!
Many thanks to Patti who helped get the ball rolling on this repair. Everyone at SOA along the way was super -- customer support, the tech managers, the service people. It's been a long time since I've felt like people actually cared about customer satisfaction. I honestly felt good about having about a Subaru today. Too bad they couldn't clone more of these folks and sprinkle them all over the US!
Ken
I'm going to re-try next week - I'm getting close on a oil change & need a filter!
Cheers!
Paul
Does this feature still exist? Is there a way to get at the entire discussion at one time?
Thanks,
Dave: no luck there. The search function is gone. At least they don't have to keep splitting the topics over and over.
-juice
Jason
Daniel
bit
until 60,000mi? I haven't done anything but change the oil, coolant and air filter on this car for over 4 years... it's getting boring! Any thoughts?
-Colin
-mike
THX
Your OB has the 2.5L DOHC engine which I've heard is difficult to change the spark plugs on. Unless you're mechanically inclined, you may want to have a dealer do that for you.
Ken
I guess I'd need to see what it looks like under the hood of your OB to give step-by-step but here goes:
The DOHC setup is a bit trickier than SOHC, but it's not that bad. Both of them should simply require removing the air intake-- should be a flexible elbow after the torque chamber (big black box)-- loose that and remove everything upstream of it. Then on the driver's side of the engine bay, remove the washer fluid bottle and battery if necessary. Now you should have unfettered access to the valve covers and thus plugs & wires. To eliminate the possibility of getting plug wires crossed, you might unplug only one at a time and replace it.
I'd use the stock wires and stock heat range plugs of your choosing. I like NGK copper, but have had great results with Bosch platinum as well (and they're cheap for platinums).
And since I have the chance, I'll again espouse my belief in replacing plugs every 15,000-25,000 miles for maximum performance and economy regardless of their type or brand. ;-)
-Colin
Cheers!
Paul
- John
Dennis
John, I don't think there is a Haynes Forester manual yet. The Haynes Legacy manual will cover the powertrain accurately since they're identical, and suspension will be pretty close but obviously not the same.
-Colin
The crush washer gets flat as a pancake after the first use, so I'd guess it won't matter much either way!
-juice
I have had a brand new container of prestone coolant for a while. Does that stuff go bad? Thanks
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs @5.99ea. Kind of pricey but what the heck. Replaced the air filter, but could not find new ign. wires, not even at the dealer. Parts guy said he only had a set for late '97 not early '97....what's the deal with that??? I did the fuel filter a few months ago. Where's the PCV valve hiding?
PCV valve is on top of the engine itself.
It's basically a one-way valve for excess pressure. You can actually test it. Blow into both sides, it should only blow out (of the engine).
-juice
1. Does this engine use a timing chain or a belt? If it's a belt, what's the recommended service interval for replacing it, and about how much does it cost to do so? (This was always a major concern with Hondas!)
2. Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket cruise control retrofit kit for this particular setup? I know earlier Impreza LS/LX models came with cruise and the 1800cc engine, so it seems like the parts ought to be available, but SoA says they don't sell a kit to retrofit it to this particular car. If there is a kit, is it something that a typical owner could install with the usual hand tools?
3. Is the 1800 engine as sturdy and reliable as the 2200? I know it won't be as powerful, but that's not as much of an issue.
4. Are there any problems associated with the manual transmission/AWD combo that I should know about?
Thanks in advance!
Stephen
(who lives in sunny central Georgia a hundred miles from the nearest Subaru dealer)
Unless you think you can get your money back Hutch, obviously I'd say just watch your car and see how they do. I wouldn't buy them myself.
-Colin
I have a 01 OB ltd. It has a whole 2K miles. As I approach the 3K, I am wondering what brand of oil people use. I used Castrol with my Honda and it always seemed to work well. Is it worth getting the Castrol Syntec? I never used 5-30. I always did 10-30. However this is a new car and maybe 5-30 is fine. Any thoughts?
-mike
the regular platinums for my truck!
Anibalb: IMHO, you can't go wrong with Castrol. I use 5W30 in the Sube, 10W40 in the warm-weather rigs (69 PowerWagon & motorhome), and that's in Eastern Washington, where we definitely have both winter & summer weather! Never had an oil-related failure with it or QS, and I can't say that about Pennzoil!
Wheels: wimped out, but got a great price on 4 American Racing wheels... 15 inchers, but that's okay... had too much left on the tires. These wheels WILL look GREAT!
Cheers!
Paul
I switched from Castrol GTX 10w30 to Syntec 10w30 at 24,000 miles after installing cams. There was evidence of oil breakdown (commonly called sludge) in just that many miles, even though I changed it every 4,000-6,000 miles (and of course a new filter). I do ask my engine to deliver high RPM power more often than the average Subaru owner-- although maybe I'm only average for a Impreza 2.5RS owner -- but I don't idle long periods of time and I don't see extreme temperatures.
I always have used synthetics in racing 2 stroke engines, and in my streetbikes as well. It wasn't until this teardown when I had the heads off that I decided my Subaru could benefit from it too. And no, I have no real desire or expectation for hundreds of thousands of miles out of this engine. Unless I sell it and move on to something else (unlikely) it won't see 100k miles before it's replaced by a higher performing, even more modified EJ25.
-Colin
Here's one of those "I know a guy" stories...
My dad has always used GTX 10W30 in his pick-up in S.C. He currently has about 160,000 miles on it and occasionally tows cattle. Maybe 3 or 4 times a year he tows 1 or 2 to sell or buy usually a few hundred miles away. He's never had an engine problem.
Colin, I don't think Castrol's web site gets very specific on their base stocks.
Dennis
-Colin
It seems that you really prefer Synthetic. And you seem to be happy with Castrol! However you mentioned that you changed the oil every 4-6,000 miles. I have always changed it every 3,000 miles. I have Accord with 160K and engine runs smooth like anything. The only problem is the third gear synchro is starting to go. Not sure if it is worth fixing or just driving it as is. In any case I don't drive it anymore since I got Subie. It is just emergency car if wife needs subie. Most if not all my driving is easy driving on car. So am not sure there is need to do synthetic. Plus I heard you are not supposed to mix the two kinds. Once you go synthetic you can't go back to normal. Is that the case? I suppose the best Sythentic for Subie would be the 5-50. Considering it calls for 5-30. Let me know. Thanks.
The reason that you shouldn't use synthetics after a large number of miles of mineral oil is that the wear will allow the smoother synthetic to seep into areas the mineral oil wouldn't. Or it will seep worse.
I would not use 5w50 in a Subaru. 50 weight is way too viscous, and even if you were doing something that necessitated it like long idling in extreme heat, or endurance racing in high heat, I would try a 20w50 if anything. In most circumstances though I wouldn't go higher than a 40 weight-- install an oil temp gauge if you're really curious.
As far as your Honda goes, you can shift without a synchro by matching RPMs-- the concern is the brass gear fragments inside the tranny case damaging more important components. Gearboxes are not something for average hobbyist to work on, so you might want to source a complete gearbox from a salvage yard and compare that to the repair estimate from your favorite shop.
-Colin
I probably will just stick to the regular oil and change it every 3K as I used to. I think you can't go wrong with that. However I thought that the weight would be the same for both oils. Yet you telling me to use a 20-50 synthetic when Sub calls for 5-30 of the mineral. I can't imagine using 20-50 mineral oil. So I guess the weight does not correspond in the two kinds of oil.
The third gear only scrapes when shifting at above 3800 rpm and not always. The car is so reliable that I hate to get rid of it. I was even thinking of shipping it to Europe and leaving it there for when I go visit my folks. It costs a fortune to get a rental there.
I appreciate the oil tips. I wouldn't dare working on a tranny. I can't even change my timming belts.
I didn't tell you to use a 20w50.
You said
I suppose the best Sythentic for Subie would be the 5-50. Considering it calls for 5-30.
To which I replied
I would not use 5w50 in a Subaru. 50 weight is way too viscous, and even if you were doing something that necessitated it like long idling in extreme heat, or endurance racing in high heat, I would try a 20w50 if anything. In most circumstances though I wouldn't go higher than a 40 weight-- install an oil temp gauge if you're really curious.
The numbers are the weight of the oil. Simply put this is its viscosity, or resistance to flow. A light (thin) oil flows easier. They don't appreciably weigh more on a scale, their mass is about the same. A 5 weight oil might pour like water at room temp, and a 50 weight might pour like honey.
Anyway since you are obviously not racing or idling for long periods of time whatever is recommended in the manual is probably smart. My '99 Impreza RS recommends 10w30 above 30 degrees Fahrenheit and 5w30 below that, but does list a wide array of other oils that *might* be suitable if the vehicle is in harsher conditions (hotter or colder).
Hope this makes things a little clearer,
-Colin
Cheers Pat.
Cheers Pat.
I am not worried about the cost. And Colin, I did know weight is not same as weight in scale. I definitely don't know as much as you guys do on this topic. Now I have a new question. Which brands are dino and which are synthetic. Pat you are right about it only being 4 oil changes a year or so. I am just afraid to start using synthetic and then when I am sick fo doing oil changes and go to dealer that by putting mineral oil after synthetic will ruin stuff. I am not sure the oils are interchangeable. Furthermore, by using Synthetic is my Subie going to be more prone to oil leaks (like oil pan gasket etc.)? To change the oil pan gasket on 90 Accord is a nightmare! I have 1K to go on Subie before my 1st oil change. I used to drive a lot more than I do now. My commute is 5 mins to work. And if I go work in San Fran I will take Bart. Darn! I only was able to afford such a nice car when I really don't need one. I love driving it though!
Cheers Pat.
Dennis
There is mineral, dino and synthetic. What the hec is Dino? Man I am behind on this. As for the breaking in of engine. A week after I got theSubie, I drove to Tahoe. And yes I went over 4K rpm. I did not use the cruise control. But the only way to maintain speed on the way there sometimes pushed rpm's above 4K. However That put about 600 miles right away. On weekends I put on longer trips. My car does heat up to normal by the time I get to work. Because it never gets that cold. Also I use highway for about 3 minutes! In and out on next exit. Weird how they say not to ruv up new engine on Subies. Yet if you build an Ultralight plane and put in a Subaru engine, guess how you break it in? You give it all its got. That is why I am not too concerned about going above 4K rpm. I don't gun it every time. And rarely goes to 4K rpm. But on the way to Tahoe it did. And it did great. Loved the drive, but hated the traffic. In Lake tahoe for every car I saw, there were 3 Subies! Popular up there in the Sierra! Thanks for continued tips. Well appreciated!
Isn't it a strange coincidence we posted at the same time that we took 600 mile trips?
Dennis