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Comments
The problem is defining the balance you describe. Conditions change, gas quality varies, including actual octane delivered, tune-ups lose their edge, etc. I just prefer to be 1 notch above absolute minimum so I can absorb any variability without putting my engine in a place I don't want it to be.
No 2 engines are exactly the same either because of production variation. Some come out more "octane sensitive" than others. This can be a good thing since this engine could be putting out slightly more power, when fed correctly, because of all things falling "jelly side up".
You seem to have found a system that works well for you and your vehicle. I have found through my experimentation that I seem to prefer some of the brand's additive package over other's, mostly from a performance and throttle response perspective.
Regards,
Frank
-mike
-Tony
Frank
bit
My choice would be to avoid it if it is only going to be 1 tank. That way the system doesn't have to "unlearn" what it just learned when you go back to normal. Gasahol raised hell with non-computer controlled cars when it first came out. There was a lot of "running-on" after the key was shut off.
Regards,
Frank
-Brian
But I don't think the timing on our boxers is adjustable, so given the conservative factory timing settings, regular should be more than fine.
My Miata's is adjustable. Factory setting is 10 DBTDC (degrees before top dead center). They recommend advancing the timing to 14 DBTDC, good for a little power boost. The catch is some engines ping (it varies, as you state), so they'd need to use premium or retard the timing. Some folks go as soon as 18 degrees, but then premium is mandatory.
Also, I don't think we have knock sensors to dial back the timing. PiperCub's turbo had an aftermarket knock sensor. His timing was retarded (big time) by one of the many little computers he installed, not sure which to be honest.
-juice
If anyone really wants to learn a lot about gas, read this.
Juice-- that's right ignition timing is adjustable on the EJ series motor. Well, if you had a Select tool maybe. You can alter the cam timing, which would bring the ignition timing with it because the ignition is looking at the cam angle sensor. I wouldn't do that though.
We do have knock sensors. It's a piezoelectric microphone positioned near the #4 cylinder on the block. Sounds like PiperCub had a J&S Safeguard knock sensor, which is considerably more capable than stock because it is highly tunable. The J&S can retard timing for any ignition module it is connected to, whether it is driven by a factory computer, an aftermarket computer, or even a mechanical distributor. It's around $400-500.
-Colin
1) The ride has started to sound noisy, so I looked into changing the struts. (I don't know what the maintenance interval is, but I am used to GM's and i know they suggest changing the in the 35K to 50K range.) I was horrified at the price the dealer wanted for the Air Assisted struts. My question is can I put the normal struts (good quality Gabriel ones) on and eliminate the air assistance. We have never used the HEIGHT button and don't plan on it. Or is the air assistance integral to the ride quality?
2) In the summertime, when the car is first started, the idle will first rise up to around 1500 rpm, but then drop down to around 500 rpm and shake the whole car. We usually just apply a little bit of gas (1200 rpm for about 10 seconds) and it eliminates the problem. Any idea what is causing this. Took it to a dealer, and he charged us $40 to blow compressed air up the tailpipe to remove a supposed obstruction in the exhaust system (his guess at the problem). Guess what, it didn't work.
Any help would be appreciated. r just point me to a previous message if this has been answered already.
Thanks.
In my youth we used to change the springs/weights in the distributor to change the rate of advance, as well as cranking in a little more initial timing. Of course, we had to kick the octane up to stop any ping, but the overall results were very rewarding, and cost effective since mileage went up too.
Regards,
Frank
-mike
Didn't know about the knock sensor. Yes, PiperCub has the J&S. Neat little gadget, but I don't think I'd have it exposed in the interior. He has a kid boy who thinks all the blinking lights (from the J&S and the SAFC) look cool, so...
Toby: just guesses, but spark plug wires, spark plugs, or fuel filter would be where I'd look first.
-juice
PS I have yet to adjust the timing on my Miata, but I most likely will.
Toby: big nod on Juice's suggestions, especially the fuel filter. This is easy, don't pay someone else to do it. Go buy a Haynes Legacy manual (~$15) and buy a fuel filter if it hasn't been replaced in a while. Then run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and see what happens.
-Colin
Cheers!
Paul
bit
Leo
Prices aren't bad if you stick with a wholesaler. Some dealers prices can be high, but I don't pay MSRP for anything.
Still, nothing like what a luxury make would charge.
-juice
juice - Briggs & Stratton now says you can use multi-grade synthetic in mowers.
Dennis
My plan is to "pull a Juice". That is, in about 5 years, find a "summer" car with a nice 5 or 6-speed.
-Tony
There you go - 2 cars means no compromises.
-juice
-mike
Forester replaces the Trooper, and Miata replaces the XT6.
-juice
Frank
-mike
Frank
-mike
With the exception of Colin, I think the majority of people don't really understand what constitutes a car engine and how they work... Here's a pretty good tutorial.
There is even a good animation of how a boxer engine works. So now when Colin says rocker valve, we'll know what he's talking about..
Thanks
Ray
-mike
Re: the air assisted shocks. Before I go changing them to standard, does anybody make aftermarket versions of the, or is there a website that discounts Subaru parts? I went to a few sites, such as Autoparts.com, but they only carried the standard shocks.
Hello. I have owned a 2000 Outback Limited Wagon, 5 speed AWD, since July of
2000. Generally have liked the car, but I have run into clutch trouble. I wonder what
the community thinks:
In Dec, when the car had 7500 miles, it began to smell like foul burnt rubber esp.
after stop and go driving. Within 2 weeks, it started to slip on acceleration, and the
clutch had burned out.
The dealer replaced it.
Shortly after (immediately), the smell was back, and has intermittently been there.
Especially a problem if climbing a small snowbank, or reversing. I live in
Minnesota, so there is plenty of snow. The clutch burning problem seems worse
when weather is coldest.
Talked with Subaru rep, who noted that the first clutch had a vendor's defect
(concave fingers on the clutch plate), which caused it to always be engaged, and
to burn out. Now, I am worried that the replacement clutch is also burning up.
Postings on this site have noted problems with 5 speed standard transmissions,
mostly on Forester, but some on Outbacks. Subaru rep says that the number of
complaints to Subaru for clutch problems under warranty have been few (only
180/million cars, or about 6 per year on their database) BUT that clutch problems
reported directly to dealers outside of warranty do not show up on his database.
What do you think? Is there something defective in the clutch pedal or release
mechanism? Is the clutch too small for the 2.5 L engine? Is it a problem peculiar
to cold weather? Is the car a lemon? Should I repair clutch again, or arrange a
buyback?. This is my second Subaru. Have not had consistent clutch problems
with previous cars.
This has been a big disappointment because I generally like this car. I have
cautioned two people not to buy one.
#3 of 931 Questions???? by doctorzoom1 Nov 25, 2000 (01:23 am)
4) Clicking noise or cricket noise coming from front driverside seatbelt mechanism? My wife thinks i'm nuts but this is driving me crazy. I've located the noise I just don't know what to do about. Push, pull, apply pressure, Whack it nothing helps? Can or will the dealer fix this problem for me?
Cheers!
Paul
I live in the nothern California. In the winter where I drive temps can range from the 20's to the 80s with long stints on the highway and into the mountains. On my fall road trips the temps can range from the 20s to 100+ and I can spend 8 hours on the road at a time.
Should I stick with 5W-30 or go to a 10W-40 or even 10W-50 for the road trips? What would I be giving up by switching from the 5W-30 besides perhaps gas mileage?
bit
Cheers!
Paul
You don't need 10w40 IMO. Definitely avoid the 10w50.
-Colin
Thanks,
Patti
Patti
Paul - Castrol makes a 5W40 in Europe. IIRC, it's available at BMW dealers and is synthetic. It's probably pricey though.
Dennis
Patti: thanks for the detail on the alternator recall. The letter didn't give the details regarding the brushes. Just curious here: what constitutes "high mileage"?
Oil warning: If anybody has any APEX oil - take it back! Some inventories in the NW have had solvents & other chemicals found in them. Must be an off-brand - I've never heard of it.
Happy Monday, and
Cheers!
Paul
ps. The Bosch +4 plugs seem to be working fine and my MPG is up about 2 per gal.
This isn't a recall. It is a "Service Campaign" - so what's the difference? A Service Program or Campaign is when the problem does not relate to a safety component and it is not mandated/regulated by NHTSA.
These campaign's are on of the reasons I like working for Subaru. They spend the bucks, when it's the right thing to do. Service campaign's like these are very expensive, but it does re-affirm our commitment to customer's. Sorry for the rant/rave. I couldn't help myself.
I am in a really bad mood. My subaru dealer just charged me 22 dollars to make me a spare key for my OB. Also, the reason we went there is because the woodgrain near the shifter has a little crack in it. like a spiderweb crack as if the heat melted it somewhat. Wife gets there and the service guy said you have to make an appointment.
What does it take to look at it and see the damage. It pretty much pops on and off! I am really angry at the situation!
There is a 4.95 carting tax to make a spare key????? Any feedback on this??? I don't mind the money and 22 dollars isn't going to make me broke. But, I hate being taken advantage of. ANd I wonder if that is the case!
bit
The dealers near me all require an appointment to do anything. They're usually very busy.
Dennis