Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

ateixeira

You can test the old PCV while you wait for the part. Remove it and blow into each side (after cleaning it). It should work like a one way valve.

-juice

lfdal

Thanks for mentioning the length of the overflow hose. The one on the 03 OBW did go into the sludge. This morning I pulled off the radiator cap and cleaned it (thoroughly cruddy), along with the neck of the radiator, also cruddy, and took off the top layer of "stuff" from the top of the radiator fluid.

Guess I'll shorten that hose so that it's at least above the "low" line on the overflow tank.

Larry

owl2

I have called Subaru and spoken with my dealer (Quirk in Bangor). It took minimal prodding to get the replacement fully covered under warranty. Excellent! Thank you SOA and Quirk!!

ateixeira

Glad to hear it! :-)

-juice

fibber2

Congrats, Owl! Good to hear. Now you can rethink your decision to 'buy something else' next time? Trust me, you would never get Toyota to pony up to cover a repair after 60k+1 mile. Been there, suffered a lot!

Do you need my address for where to send the 'finders fee' check? ;-)

Steve

zman3

Maybe I am the exception, or maybe times have changed, but I had no problem having Toyota repair a bearing issue in my transmission after the warranty period. This was about ten years ago however. I had 50K+ miles on it and at that time the powertrain warranty was 3/36K. Fortunately I have not had any major issues with my 98 Outback in the post warranty period. In warranty was another story....

Karl

fibber2

Karl,

A very long story that I posted here a few years ago. Summary: Long time ago... String of No Trouble Found reports while I kept complaining about singing bearings in the final drive unit. It went just outside the 60k mark. District rep explained that if it didn't sieze within the warr period, they had no obligation. Upon disassembly, races were all pitted - bad metallurgy, yet they still did nothing...

Would I buy another Toyota? Maybe... time does have the effect of softening my anger.

Steve

Steve

nygreg

Maybe the experiences here are against Toyota. For me, they make great, reliable, easy to work on products. We've owned 3 toyotas for the past 20 years and over 450,000 combined miles with few complaints. Do I still love my Subaru? You bet.

Greg

njswamplands

not a single issue with it, great car.

fibber2

I had 3 Toyota's, and overall, think they make an excellent product. I even pushed my father into an Avalon when he was thinking about another Taurus. But I feel that Subaru 'after the traditional warranty support' is clearly a cut above. Maybe it is the We Try Harder approach of a smaller company, with more to loose in terms of customer loyalty? And of course, the "Patti" connection is worth it's weight in gold as well (I don't know how much she actually weights, but she is worth every penny in my book... ;-).

Like I said, I would probably buy another Toyota today. But it was the poor treatment last time around that got me looking at a Subaru.

Steve

zman3

I for one did not think you sounded bitter I was simply pointing out that I was actually pleased with Toyota's after warrranty assistance. Fortunately at 88K miles I have not had to try to have Subaru help me out. My piston slap is back but I am just going to live with it I guess.

jjsb

MOved to Canada and need to get day running lights working on 98 Outback. For my old Porsche it was simple: buy R63 relay and plug in - dealer was going to charge me one hour labour for 'wiring'! Now I am getting same message from Subaru dealer - needs 'wiring'. I am sure it must be just a plug-in relay. Can anyone help (have Porsche manual but not Subaru one)? Is it a relay? IF so, what is it called and where is it installed?

kenl

I just got a brand new Impreza TS. When I turn on the air, the a/c compressor is on and off every 10-15 seconds. I haven't seen such a short compressor cycle in other cars. Is this normal? Will it damage the compressor?

jfl

I have an intermittent window switch on the driver's side. Does the whole control panel pop off or do I need to remove the door panel. Advice?

Thx,

Jim

c_hunter

On the last few Subarus we have owned, the panel containing the window switches came off separately (in fact, it is usually one of the steps you do before removing the door panel). So I am betting the panel will come off by itself. Look for any hidden screws that may be holding it on, otherwise it's probably held in with snaps/fasteners.

Craig

longvalleyowne

I have a 1996 Subaru Outback. I've had it to the mechanic twice; he doesn't know what's wrong. In tight turns, going either forward or backward, the car makes a clunking noise (clunk-clunk-clunk- ) until turn is complete). It seems to come from the rear. As I said, this happens especially in tight turns, but occasionally happens in other turns, as well. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Thanks.

edunnett

as i asked before - you can't just leave your regular lights on all the time? does canada dmv give you some guidelines to go by in installing daytime running lights in your car?
Elissa

paisan

Is this on a WRX? If so you unscrew the switch holder, then pop off the unit on the back. We modify these units as part of our security systems. I believe they are $75 to replace from subaruparts.com and can be replaced in about 30 seconds.

-mike

paisan

Yeah why not just glue your stalk switch in the "on" position. When you turn off the car, the lights turn off anyway.

-mike

alyosha73

Is your ac cooling well? If it is , i dont think there any problem, if it isnt - the quick cycling can be a problem with a switch in ac wiring, which doesnt allow for the temp to go down and disrupts cooling, had this problem in my other car -not subaru (the switch was bad from day one, but took two years for the dealer to pinpoint the issue).

jfl

Craig you're right, the window switch panel on a Legacy does just pry off. However, there does not appear to be much in the way of repairable parts. If it continues, looks like I'll have to replace the entire panel. 8~(

I think mike is right about the price range too.

Jim

samiam_68

It's time to change the rear differential fluid. Take it to a dealer, they will use the correct fluid and any additives if needed.

paisan

Just 75-90 fluid in the rear diffy. Only one that needs additive is older LSDs and the one in the STi

-mike

paisan

yeah if it's like the WRX unless you are a really really good electronics guy, then replacement is the only answer.

-mike

ebony5

I too hear a clunking noise on occasion but from the front of my '96 OBW. It seems to be coming from near the wheels but I am not exactly sure. It only occurs when making very,very slow tight turns. It does not happen all the time. Any ideas?

c_hunter

Yeah, I think you have to buy the whole assembly, or look for one in a junkyard.

Craig

jjsb

Well, of course that would give the same result, but it is not an issue of driving with running lights, it is an issue of satisfying import requirements. The rules are that the car must be electrically modified so that day running lights are automatic, and not a choice of the driver. On the Porsche, this is simply a matter of inserting the appropriate relay in the central electrical panel. I suspect Subaru probably has a similar setup, but since I do not yet have their manual, I was hoping to pick someone' s brains on how to do this. The glue stick idea will probably not fly with the inspectors either ! So, anyone know how to do this? Jason

paisan

Nope, haven't seen any circuits that would allow that to be honest with you. You may need to actually go have it worked on.

-mike

paisan

Yuppers and funny thing is it's a NISSAN part! I believe the WRX has the same switch assy as the Maximas.

-mike

fibber2

Clunks from the front during tight turns are probably from worn CV joints.

Clunks from the rear are most likely due to a binding differential. While 'open' diffs could get sticky, it is most often limited slip units that get really clunky if not maintained. Would that have been optional in '96 on the OB?

While the rear half axles do have joints, they are typically universals rather than CV, as the motions are limited to up and down, and the alignment is kept within a few degrees (exception being 4ws). "U" joints can make noise if the bearing cups are dry and the needle bearings are breaking down, but it is unlikely to be worse in turns.

Steve

ebony5

My knowledge of cars is limited. CV joints- What are they and what are the implications. How critical is the situation and is it possible for a ballpark figure to how much it would cost to have them repaired/replaced.

impressza25

I have the same issue with my 2001 Imp 2.5, and have gotten the dealership to tighten it under warranty service every time and I also have the gold plus warranty. Although this is going to be the 4th time I'm taking it in as it is loose again. They won't fix it, but they will tighten it. Negotiation is key I suppose.

fibber2

What is a CV joint? This is a case where a picture would be worth a 1000 words! A universal joint allows two shafts to transmit power with a bend in the middle. But they must be in pairs resolving that bending motion in order to transmit power smoothly. The way they are constructed results in the center section changing velocity twice per revolution (speed up, slow down). This is fine for the rear axle, as the only change in bending angle is basically up and down. But the fronts have an additional degree of freedom - steering as well as suspension travel. Thus a more complex set of 'elbows' is required. A CV joint combines an in-out motion with bending, keeping the rotational velocity constant between the parts.

The most common failure mode is a torn rubber boot that allows grit to damage the bearing surfaces. Eventually, the friction results in a kind of mini spot weld, then breakage.

The complete 'assembly' consists of an inner joint (by the transaxle), a center shaft, and an outer joint (by the wheel hub). Considering the wear patterns and labor involved, it might be more sensible to replace the whole assembly with a rebuilt unit, rather than try to replace pieces. Someone else will have to address price - I have no idea what a Subi assembly runs.

Steve

suydam

This is something you will want to fix fairly soon. We just had ours replaced on a 1999 Forester (the whole assembly) and I believe it was around $250 at an independent mechanic.

kens

The Subaru-Nissan connection is pretty interesting. I've heard about the auto tranny design coming from Nissan, but the window switches are new. I wonder what other parts Subaru sources from Nissan.

Ken

paisan

CVs are on all four corners on the subies.

Heck my SVX even has a CV joint on the drive-shaft!

I'll see if I can find a pic.

-mike

subaruber

I own a 2000 Legacy OB Wagon Ltd. 5 speed. When driving in 4th gear at 65 - 70mph on any grade of significance to require a downshift (5th to 4th) in the mountains of Colorado the check engine light will come on. I have been to the dealership three times in the past few months and each time they have claimed to solve the problem. 1st time was the Knock Sensor replacement. 2nd time was the Coil Assembly and Ignition wire set replacement. 3rd time injectors, plug wires, compression leak down tested, R&R right cylinder head, replaced intake and exhaust valves and seals, related gaskets and seal, changed oil and filter, and resealed leaking oil pump. I picked the car up Friday and the light came on two days later as I returned from the mountains, climbing floyd hill on Interstate 70 at 65mph in 4th gear. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm at wit's end with the car and the dealership (supposedly) fixing the problem. I am not towing anything or carrying any weight beyond a few mountain bikes and a little gear.

paisan

Is the CEL flashing?
Is there any drivability issues (stuttering, loss of power, etc?)

If it's not flashing and the drivablitiy is ok, I wouldn't worry too much about it personally.

-mike

cmuniz

This may or may not be related, but I had a 95 Ford Windstar that I drove from Dallas, Tx to new Mexico on vacation. Right before reaching Albuquerque the CEL went on. I went directly to the dealer and they told me that it was caused by the difference in altitude between Tx and NM - it was not a problem. Reluctantly I drove on, but sure enough when I descended to lower altitude it went off. You dealer seems to be clueless as to what it is so I would go to a different one next time. I am no mechanic, but I would zero in on a pressure change of some sort in the emmision control system. It could be as simple as a bad gas cap.

ozman62

The side mirrors on my '98 F have a Nissan logo on the bottom.
Owen

locke2c

die spammer die.

~c

hypov

I thought for men it's "The Bro" )

-Dave

hypov

locke2c Sep 21, 2004 3:10pm

hypov Sep 21, 2004 3:12pm

result of a spammer, in case anyone wondered

-Dave

ateixeira

Glad I missed it. Thanks to our hosts for being on the ball.

-juice

vetmats

I had a 2000 5 spd Subaro Outback (not LTD) that had similar symptoms. I was on a business trip traveling through Tennessee. At first, the check engine light would come on and then go off when I was going up some fairly steep grades. Next, I the engine started lugging and I was losing power when going up steep grades. Finally, the check engine light started to blink, so I stopped and had to call a tow truck.

It turned out that I had neglected to change the fuel filter, and all of my fuel injectors were clogged. I now change my fuel filters every 15K!

So, you might want to check your fuel filter if it hasn't been changed in a while.

subaruber

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Some more info:

The CEL doesn't flash, just comes on steady and stays on, and has no performance loss at all.

The engine light error code is apparently a misfire in the number 3 cylinder, same as before (I brought it back today, the dealer said they would fix the problem at NC). Apparently the dealer has been on the phone with Subaru Technical Support quite a bit, who is now recommending they try replacing the MAP sensor, (an altitude-related sensor I believe). They had to order a MAP sensor, so that test will have to wait until tomorrow.

I had my fuel filter last replaced 16K ago, so I'll ask them about that. Is it possible to check the fuel filter myself?

jtom

This is a cross post that I posted on AWD VW forum, but unable to find it here.

I went to costco to replace 1 tire on my 1994 subaru awd impreza and got "buy 4 tires" thing, because of 4/32" uneven wear. They now won't sell anything but 4 new tires on awd, even though we JUST bought a single tire from them a few months ago. This must be a new-ish policy as we've bought 1 and 2 tires in the past. So I did a little research and found this on tirerack.com

C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Desktop\Tire Tech - Matching Tires on Four-Wheel Drive And All-Wheel Drive Vehicles.htm

Audi As published in their vehicle owner's manual, "rolling radius of all 4 tires must remain the same" or within 4/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.

Porsche Cayenne within 30% of the other tire on the same axle's remaining treadwear.

Subaru Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth. (although NOT in my owner's manual)

So thoeritically I can get 3 tires, only if Costco sells the EXACT same style of Potenza's that I got a few months ago. Bummer, cuz 2 are only 50% worn.

The BIG question, has anyone actually ruined a transmission....or are they trying to con us out of more money? Also the AWD on a manual is different than an automatic. Does anyone know if this makes a difference? Thanks-jewels

p0926

Jewels- Yes you can buy just 3 new tires since the 4th is only a couple of months old and yes it sucks that you have two that are only 50% worn.

As to your "big" question... not that I know of. No doubt the tolerances specified are extremely conservative (as specified by the legal dept). It's not a con since it's the auto manufacturers who make the rules and they don't sell tires. Now here's a big question for you: are you willing to risk ruining your AWD to find out?

-Frank

cptplt

I have frequently replaced 2 tires only on my 4EAT Subes with no problems though I am not one to wear them down to the legal minimum before changing. While there is a noticeable difference in tread depth between the replaced ones and the ones I kept on the car I've never had a situation where there are 2 new ones and 2 with only 2-/32 only! It may be more of a problem with the MT as its always in 50:50 mode.

fibber2

but many speed shops and some better tire stores have equipment for shaving a tire. A popular thing with the racing community, as it avoids the squirm common with brand new rubber.

Buy the tires over the counter (not mounted, so you don't have to state the application), get them trimmed to match the remaining units, and have the speed shop mount and balance them.

Steve