Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
HTH, Owen
Many thanks in advance...
In my case my dealership has a deal worked out with one of the jobbers to give its customers a pretty decent discount, so you might want to ask the dealership first.
If, on the other hand the paint is trashed, you might as well go to a body shop - even if you get the dent removed, to repaint it right, the bumper ***must*** come off the car. I've never seen one done on the car that lasted more than a season or two. Expect $300-500. If you go that route, get it in the quote that they'll R&R the bumper.
If possible, you might want to look underneath and see if you can ascertain whether or not the bumper bar has been damaged. If so, that takes it to a whole new level.
HTH
Larry
If not, you might just get lucky, some bumpers have magically popped out and fixed themselves.
A new bumper is only about $125-150 at wholesale, but you still have to paint it.
-juice
Juice, there isn't a scratch on the dent anywhere, but I think this is too deep to pop itself back out "magically". If you know of an incantation I should be reciting, please share!
I'll call the local dealers (I have several to choose from in the area) and see what they have to say.
I know it's not the end of the world, but it's so frustrating to have to fix this when I didn't do anything to cause the damage (unless going to work counts). And my place of work is a large defense company and the security is high - had to be a co-worker. GRRRR! I drove my Civic for 13 years and 170K miles and sold her without a scratch on her. Four months into the new car and somebody nails it. Perhaps we should have surveillance camera options in the 2006 models???
-Dave
-juice
Anyways I heard that the imobilizer built in is easily overriden, haven't had a chance to really jump into and test any of them at our shop, but we've been securing lots and lots of subies here in the NY/NJ area.
I actually spoke to SOA about the issues in the security systems in hopes that they'd incorporate them in their updated cars, looks like they are taking some of my suggestions, not all of em but they are working on em
If you want more details on how to secure your car shoot me an e-mail...
-mike
If just the looks are your concern (I am not sure of the impact absorbing foam underneath), you can get one of those glass holding suction cups and try pulling it out. I popped a corner out on one of my cars that way.
Don
It's a shop owned and operated by Subaru enthusiasts. I think some of them might be on this board. ;-) Had my tint installed there and bought a skidplate from them.
-Dennis
I'm giving up on Subaru brand rotors. My 2000 OB warps rotors in an unbelievably short time interval, front and rear. I'm fanatical about not letting any mechanic near the lugnuts with an airgun. Whenever my tires will be removed I bring my torque wrench along.
Thanks for any recommendations.
Vince
shoot paisan [mike] an e-mail mike-at-iace-dot-com
IIRC RacingBrake.com have rotors for the late model Legs/OBs. Check with mike, he would know better.
-Dave
2)something got on one of the alloy wheels near the lug nuts & it appears to be eating into the alloy. Should I use steel wool on it? Can it be painted?
That's it for now(I hope!)
Thanks,
Bob
I don't see any sign that something has broken off the plastic - there is a flared flange around the bottom of the part that goes into a hole in the floor and it seems to be complete with no whitening that is usually the sign that the plastic has broken.
But I just can't seem to push it far enough (or hard enough) to reseat itself.
Any suggestions?
fyi, I mostly run the A/C on the recirc setting. I don't think this water could be coming from the A/C condensor? Probably a window/windshield leak or roof molding leak?
Thanks. Jon
Thanks for the info.
Vince
Jon- It's definitely not the A/C (which when plugged, normally leaks into the front passenger footwell). Sounds like you've got a roof or rear hatch/window leak. You need to get it fixed because water leaking into the interior is a bad thing (rust/mold/mildew etc).
-Frank
Started the day at 9am went over to Jersey City to pickup on of our customer's cars that got a re-flashed ecu and we were putting in an upgraded turbo and injectors along with some security as well.
Worked all day on brake upgrades, security upgrades, skid plates, and fixing blown out UP gaskets on various cars. We finally finished the last car at 3am and I bedded in the brakes. Talk about a long weekend!
-mike
-juice
Not sure if that helps you. Maybe the lighter itself went bad?
Most Subie wheels are painted. Use a bug and tar remover to clean it, then try a coat of wax on the rim to protect it.
Yeah, let the dealer look at that fastener. It's under the 12 months adjustment period. I lost mine a while back and it hasn't really mattered.
I'd be more concerned about that water leak, though. The grommet keeps water from getting in, also. Every time you drove over a puddle the wheel well will get wet. It may not matter, but still, I'd try to trace the source, often a moonroof rail that is clogged.
-juice
Problems began with intermittent fluctuations in gauge reading once the fuel level dropped below half. Eventually, it became a 'plunge to zero' somewhere below 3/8ths or so. Soon, the CEL came on as well. But the car ran perfectly otherwise.
OBD scanner indicated fuel guage sensor 'A'. He has the shop manual set, which showed that there is actually two floats, 'main' and 'A'. Main includes the fuel pump, 'A' is just another float and pickup on the other side of some internal tank baffling. Everything is accessible from within the car. Remove the false foam floor in the load area, and seal plates provide access to the tanks innards. He removed and inspected both float assemblies, and found that the fully exposed contactor 'fingers' (variable resistor pickup) were pretty much etched away (more on A, some damage on main). It looks like the sensors are wired in series, so a failure on one kills the signal. $100+ in parts, and an hour of labor, clear the codes, and he was back in business again.
Dealer comments: He had to call two to find them in stock. First was sold out, other recently got restocked. Parts guy said that they have sold a few of these recently. Reason? Maybe condensation, or water absorbed by ethanol (replacement for MTBE in our area) reacting with the (presumably copper) wiper?
Wouldn't be a bit surprised if other models suffered the same problem with time... Anyhow, now you know where to look if you see this happen to your gas gauge.
Steve
I went to the dealer today & they said they have to replace the lighter. I must admit I should have read the section in the owners manual where they recommend using the rear outlet .
My question is why doesn't the rear outlet work since they are on separate circuits?
Regarding the wheel, the metal has actually been etched by whatever got on it. It is beyond tar remover or mild rubbing compound. Was wondering if touching up with aluminum paint would make it look worse?
Thanks for your comments,
Bob
John
-Frank
-juice
I found a few earlier posts with some basic tips, but not much more.
Thanks.
james - no, because the cat is downstream, it should have no long-term affect whatsoever on the engine.
-juice
The rears are a bit more involved, as the center hub contains a second full brake assembly - a mini drum brake used exclusively for the parking/emergency brake.
Removal of the caliper is as you have probably already read - two slider bolts hold the caliper to the carrier. Check on condition of boots & bolts, and use high temp brake lube to insure smooth operation on reassembly. Use a wire coat hanger to the spring above to keep it out of the way.
Pads and chatter springs are held in place in the carrier. Remove, taking note of placement of backer pads, springs, etc. Make sure now that the new parts kit is identical! Remove the caliper carrier (you cannot remove the disk/drum without doing this first as it wraps around the front). There are two bolts in the back that you will have to fight with. Consider a torch to heat them, or penetrating oil before you go at them. Breakage on a 4yr old car is always a possibility....
If it was the fronts, you would just tap lightly to break the rust, and pull the rotor straight off. Cannot do it that easily on the rears, as the shoes are probably held in place by a rim of rust on the inside lip. Simply pulling may damage the shoe retainers, and add more hours to the task! There is a small rubber cover on the back plate that will give you access to a star gear. Using a screw driver, you need to turn the gear to retract the shoes, until they will slip over the rust lip.
Reverse, and you are done!
Steve
-mike
Bear with me here as I am a newbie to brake jobs. I’m pretty handy so think I can tackle the job, but just want to be sure I’m doing things right.
I pulled some info together from this thread, including your input, input from Paisan and Lucien2, and persons on other sites, and have attempted to summarize the process. Appreciate any help in correcting, clarifying or adding to these step by step instructions before I attempt to tackle sometime in the next few weeks. Hopefully others will benefit as well.
Cheers.
Jay.
RE/RE Rear rotors and pads on 2000 Outback (presume this applies for mdys 00-04?)
Tools needed:
14 mm socket or open end wrench
Hammer or rubber mallet
C-clamp
Brake Cleaner
Hi-temp brake lube
Anti squeal compound
Mechanics wire or old wire hanger (to hang caliper assembly out of way while removing rotor)
Jack and stands
Turkey baster (or other device to remove fluid from brake reservoir)
Anti-seize compound
continued in next post.......
1. Jack up car and ensure it is secure on a pair of jack stands. Place some blocks on front wheels since brakes are not engaged (especially if doing this on any sort of slope)
2. Remove wheels. (duh!)
3. Remove 14 mm slider bolts at rear of caliper, being careful not to damage boots. Remove the caliper, again being careful not do damage boots.
Question: will there be an issue with removing the caliper assembly from the rotor if the outer edge of the rotor has a ridge of rust? If so, how do I push back the piston to allow the pads to clear the ridge?
4. Check condition of boots and bolts. You will need to apply high temp brake lube upon reassembly to ensure smooth movement of caliper on the slides. Use a wire hanger or mechanics wire to suspend the caliper from the suspension spring or some other part of the vehicle.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the carrier to the axle. These may take some extra effort. If seized, use a quality penetrating oil or a torch to heat bolts. Be careful not to use both at the same time, or you might as well pull out the marshmallows while you’re at it! (thanks lucien2 I had a good chuckle)
Question: do you heat, cool then remove, or do you heat and attempt removal while hot? Also, how long should I heat (assuming I’m using a standard propane torch from hardware store)
6. Remove pads carefully, noting position of rubber coated shim, steel shim, wear guard and clips etc. Check replacement parts against existing part to ensure they are the same!
7. Apply anti-squeal compound to the surface (not completely to outer edge) between the rubber-coated shim and the pad backing plate. Apply same compound to the surface of the support to which the pad clip is to be attached and apply compound to the surface of the pad clip which is to be attached to the pad (this is taken directly from Subaru instructions that come with OEM pad kit instructions were scanned as image on another site).
NOTE: ensure you do not get any compound or grease on the pad braking surface.
8. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap. This will facilitate pushing the piston into the caliper assembly. You may need to remove some fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster or other device if you topped up your fluid as brakes wore down. This unlikely unless you are replacing all 4 rotors at once, but keep and eye out anyway. Make sure baster is clean and don’t drop any dirt in reservoir. Baster cannot be re-used for foodstuff once it contacts brake fluid.
9. Push the piston back into the caliper assembly as far as possible. Use a c-clamp if necessary placing one of the old pads between the clamp and the piston.
10. Re-install new pads in reverse order of removal.
11. Retracting shoes used in mini drum for parking brake: Find a small rubber plug on the backing plate (axle side). Remove it. Insert a flat screwdriver through the hole and back off the shoes by turning the star gear a few turns. (do not reinstall plug at this time)
12. Remove the rotor. If necessary, gently tap the rotor using a rubber mallet or hammer, alternating locations to loosen it up. Failing that, thread an 8 mm bolt into the hole in the rotor. Screw in bolt until rotor comes off far enough to remove by hand.
13. Firmly install new rotor into place and use a rubber mallet if necessary.
14. Re-insert screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate to re-set the shoes in the mini-drum (for parking brake). Re-install the rubber plug.
Question here: how do you know when the shoes have been sufficiently extended against the mini-drum?
15. Apply anti-seize compound (not absolutely necessary, but will facilitate removal next time) to the bolts and re-attach the carrier to the axle.
16. Ensure the slider bolts are clean, then apply high temperature brake lube and reattach the caliper to the carrier.
Question on 15, 16. Are there torque specs for these bolts, or simply tighten until they are good and snug?
17. Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap.
18. When first get into the car, press on the brakes slowly, ¾ way to the floor and bring the pedal back up. Repeat until brakes feel hard. Start car and press again.
19. Turn car off and check reservoir for fluid level. Top off as required.
20. Take car out and find a location where you can seat the pads and wear off initial pad layer without worrying about traffic. This should be done by some repeated hard braking (not locking from 50 mph to stop). In fact, DO NOT come to a complete stop until this is done 3 or 4 times. ( I recall reading this on another post but cannot recall the technical reason for not coming to a stop believe it had to do with creating a pad image on the rotor )
OVERALL Question: at which point and for which parts would the brake cleaner be used?
End.
~c
Elissa
Those are pretty good instructions.
There's a website that has photos and instructions on Subie brake service. However, we cannot post a link here.
Email me (see my profile) and I'll send you the addy.
Jim
Just take the brackets directly off w/o removing the calipers from the brackets.
You only need to remove the calipers when you are doing pads only.
-mike
Don
Jim: thanks for the offer...I have fired off an e-mail.
Mike: Thanks for the clarification. Just a question (forgive my ignorance): Subaru recommends lubing the guides for the calipers annually,which I presume refers to the slider bolts. Would one not have to remove the bolts to lube them? Not sure...just don't want my calipers to seize as they did this go around.
Also, if the calipers are not removed from brackets, how do you ensure pads clear the ridge of rust built up on the outer edge of the rotor? Or will this not be an issue?
Some outstanding questions from my post (hopefully someone can answer these so I can update the instructions):
Question: When removing bolts at axle, do you heat, cool then remove, or do you heat and attempt removal while hot? Also, how long should I heat (assuming I’m using a standard propane torch from hardware store)?
Question: how do you know when the shoes have been sufficiently extended against the mini-drum for the parking brake?
Question on 15, 16. Are there torque specs for these bolts, or simply tighten until they are good and snug?
Sorry for hogging so much space, and thanks for the input.
~c
Jay
-juice
~c
Ken
LOL
~Colin
-juice