Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

xwesx

I am surprised at all the blame that has been placed on Rain-X. The wipers are only going to chatter for three reasons.

1) There is not enough pressure between the wiper and the glass to create a trailing edge on the blade.

2) The blade itself is too stiff to bend to create a trailing edge. I find this happens frequently with my '69 van because I rarely use it and the wipers are cheap, old, and sit so long in a leading edge position.

3) There is too much friction between the blade and the glass.

Usually it is some combination of these factors. If anything, applying a glass wax would allow the blade to slide more smoothly across the glass, not create chatter.

Are there wind conditions to consider? Remember that with a glass wax, you're decreasing the boundary layer on the surface of the glass because there is less resistance to wind flow. This is going to increase the air velocity on the surface of the windshield and could lead to chatter if the wipers do not have enough pressure against the windshield to prevent them from being lifted during their travel across the glass. If the blades chatter mostly between their resting position and about 45 degrees, this may be part of the culprit if the problem only occurs while the vehicle is in motion. If lack of contact pressure is the problem, you can try adding air foils to the wiper arms to help press the blades against the glass but they can exacerbate the problem if #2 and #3 are the real culprits.

Just some options to consider rather than looking for a villan......

Kirstie_H

A reporter is wondering if anyone has had trouble getting parts for cars and trucks from the 1985-1997 model year. If you have a story to share, please send it to jfallon@edmunds.com by Friday, October 29, 2004.
Thanks!
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com

jfl

If you've used Rain-X off and on for years like I have, you'd understand.

Above 30 mph you don't need wipers, the raindrops just slide off. The wipers WILL chatter.

Jim

threesin

How difficult would it be to change out an auto trans for a 5-sp in a '98 Impreza RS. It seems that there are a lot of "pristine" RSs out there with low mileage and auto trannys; but there are very few nice ones with 5-spds? What would be involved and what kind of $$$ are we talking (ball park)? I don't have the space, tools, know how, or inclination:-(

Also, I thought that all the late model RSs(post '01 or so?), had the same 2.5 SOHC engines used in all the NA Subarus; but I keep seeing some references to a DOHC 2.5 eng in some of the older RSs. Can someone enlighten me on this point?

TIA.............Terry

dcm61

I don't know the cost for the 4EAT to 5MT but my guess is WAY TOO much. You'd need the transmission, clutch assembly, pedals, shifter, ECU (different one or reprogrammed at least) and probably half shafts and possibly rear diff. Shoot paisan an email at mike@iace.com if you want another opinion.

'98 RS has the DOHC, '99+ RS have the SOHC.

DaveM

threesin

Thanks Dave: I really appreciate your "speedy" response, disappointing though the news may be. I will give Mike a try, but you're probably right on the mark. Nothing is simple or inexpensive in these days of hi-tech everything!

Terry

dlydrvr

I was braking for a stop sign on a wet road and the wheels slipped and the ABS kicked in. The problem, I was going pretty slow and I barely pressed on the brake.
It also has occured on dry roads with high speed of about 70 and moderate brake application.
I have never encountered this problem with past ABS cars (2000 Mustang GT, 2001 Honda Civic).

ateixeira

The catch is even the AWD was different. The MT5 models had a VC, while the automatics had the auto AWD that even had an extra fuse to disable AWD completely.

To be honest Subies don't depreciate much. You might find a '99 still costs $10 grand, while a new one with a 5 year powertrain warranty can be haggled down to around $17k. I'd just buy new.

dlydrvr: check your tire pressures and make sure they are evenly worn and rotated regularly. AWD are "quirky" in that they have tighter tolerances.

-juice

dlydrvr

juice,
I don't think it's the tires, they only have a few thousand miles and are monitored for pressure. I have an 04 WRX that has EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution), could that be responsible?
For a sporty car like the WRX, they should have looser tolerances for braking assistance. ABS is kicking way before I need it to.

ateixeira

I think it's the AWD interfering with ABS operation.

But people that went with better tires report fewer problems.

-juice

xwesx

Oh, I have used Rain-X for years and I've never had any problems with wiper chatter on those vehicles. The problem is likely symptomatic of something else and the Rain-X just acts as a catalyst, but to each his own....

[Deleted User]

This Rain-X debate about windshield wiper chatter has me scratching my head in curiosity. I've used Rain-X for seven years on seven vehicles without any troubles (two Toyota Camrys, Honda Accord, Subie Legacy, Dodge Grand Caravan, Jeep Cherokee, Honda CR-V). I swear by it now. Whenever I ride with friends/family in vehicles that don't have it, or rent vehicles on business trips, the water build up just drives me crazy.

Oh well, to each his/her own. I'd definitely try new/different wiper blades and wiper bows before totally giving up and living with chatter. It's a small investment and easily returned after a quick test.

mylegacy

With Rain-X, I don't even use the wiper anymore or hardly use it. Maybe it becomes chatter because i don't use the wiper enough?

hypov

It's the tires.
The RE92s are decent tires... just that they don't have the grip in braking conditions that the brakes are over powering them, hence lock-up and ABS kicks in.

-Dave

fibber2

Most likely, it falls under the category of 'normal'. As tires age, they get harder and lose grip. I see that with my RE92's. It becomes easier to lock up a wheel even under moderate conditions and invoke ABS.

There is a remote possibility that there is a functional problem with your braking system. In addition to the ABS, there are some proportioning valves. Maybe excess pressure is routed to one wheel? Any idea if it is always the same corner locking first? You would have to ask someone to drive along side, or check the skid patch marks while braking in an empty parking lot or the like to be sure.

Steve

ateixeira

Given the symptoms, I'm thinking wheel bearings. Try the wiggle test, jack up that wheel and see if there is any play.

-juice

dlydrvr

I don't have the RE92's. I have Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 with no noticable wear.

ateixeira

I still use Rain X, the occasional chatter doesn't bother me much.

Wait to use the wipers only when there is rain on the windshielf. Turning it on when it's dry is like nails-on-the-chalkboard. ;-)

-juice

paisan

kumho 712s there is your problem. They are IMHO worse than the RE92s. They are cheap and look cool for the ricer crowd but I put zero stock in them having driven them on significant numbers of WRXs. They quickly become hard and plasticy.

-mike

timo43

Bit of a nasty shock yesterday. Suppose to be a quick, $40 42000 kilometer (26,000 mile) scheduled service, but was told the front disc brakes had only about 10%, and might not make it to the next service. Most of the 42,000 kilometers were put on with highway driving, and what was not highway, was put on in the countryside with few stop lights. Also, the mechanic apparently had trouble with a nut or something on one of the calipers, and had to drill it out and replace the caliper-- not a warranty item, apparently either. Total bill (including the scheduled service) over $400 (Canadian). I'm used to the brakes on my other car going for over 90,000 kilometers, but I guess that is a lighter vehical, etc. Anyway, thoughts on this would be appreciated-- ie, is this unusual brake wear, and should I have had to pay for that caliper too? Thank you.

jay_24

All I can say is that Subaru tends to have inconsistant brakes. Some people post that they needed pads or rotors replaced in 20k miles other can go forever. I had mine checked last week and they mention they are about 50% left and I have 60K miles on my 2001 OB.

Many that post claim to be easy on the brakes. Does that possibly mean they lightly ride the brakes or use them softly which causes pad/rotor contact for a longer period of time. more heat? Could that be worse than a good firm application of the brakes? I don't know...just wondering.

ozman62

Is your Forester an auto? Even if it is, it seems to be an unusually high wear rate. I just did my (first) front pad change on my '98 F at 135K km. The rear shoes (drum) were still at over 50%. Mine's a manual, but I still thought that it was exceptional mileage for the first change. I would have insisted that they show me the parts they removed, because they can say anything. Also, it seems unfair that you should have to pay the whole shot for the caliper when they screwed it up. If you were really at only 10% remaining wear, you should have been hearing the squealers, too. The only other explanation I could think of that would explain the excessive wear is that the calipers were causing the pads to 'drag', but it seems unlikely that both sides would have this problem.
  I'm not sure where Robert's Creek is, but I'm guessing that you don't have easy access to another dealer. Reading back on your saga with the CEL for the gas tank sensor, I would be starting to suspect that your service guys aren't that capable ... or honest.
Hope this helps,
Owen

gord7

By coincidence just had my 42000km service on 03 Legacy Wgn this morning. Brakes at front 30% remaining and rear 35% remaining.

I concur with timo43, never experienced being so close to needing new pads at this low kilometres before. Strange thing is at last service front had 5% more remaining than rears.

Timo43 where do you manage to get the 42000km service for $40, my oil change services are always a few cents short of $80 - Canadian of course

Gordon

paisan

The caliper should be under warranty if the car is under warranty. Their breaking it shouldn't impact you in any way.

-mike

urabus

I have a 2004 Subaru Outback, purchased new in March of this year. I hate the daytime running lights and was wondering if there is anyway to easily disengage them. Thanks.

timo43

Thank you very much for such quick responses-- that's really great!

Thanks for your comments, jay 24-- I think I am not particularly gentle or hard on the brakes, and know I do not ride them.

ozman62, it is an automatic, as is our other car (the one that did not need pad until closer to 100k kilometers, and was furthermore driven in the city a lot-- way more stop and go. They said 10-20 % remaining-- there was no alert squealing (familiar with that one). The invoice says they replaced a 'broken front right caliper slide pin ($47.50)-- should that have been warranty work for sure? The service centre is in Vancouver, and is reputed to be pretty good-- but, you are right, it sure took them a long time to figure out the CEL.

gord7-- thanks for your comments. Checked my records. It was during our trip across Canada where a minor service was only $42-- Nova Scotia. Turns out that the minor services also cost almost $80 in Vancouver. Wishful thinking on my part-- too bad, Nova Scotia is a little far to drive for a service.

Thanks paisan-- how can I get confirmation that the caliper should have been covered? I asked the service manager at the time, because they apparently broke it, and I was surprised to be charged... but he said not a warranty item.

dlydrvr

I had the braking problem with the RE92's as well. Thanks for your post, there has been something weird about my car. When I take moderately high speed turns (60-70mph) on secondary roads, the car feels like it is sliding. The problem is, there is zero tire squealing. I am not taking the turn too fast, but it feels like the car is going to lose grip. Hard and plasticy tires are probably responsible for that. However, the tires are great at quick 90 degree turns (way better than the RE92's).

Anyone have any ideas for a better tire for WRX? (under $150 a piece)..

ateixeira

Subaru tends to have inconsistant brakes

Agree fully, and I'll submit my brakes as a good example - 69k miles on the original pads! And I've towed, gone off road, and drive hard once in a while.

If any brake should have failed early, it should have been mine. Especially given I've towed 1500 lbs without trailer brakes (recommended limit is just 1000).

Sliding in turns, you think a wheel bearing could be bad? Do you hear any noise?

-juice

baydrive

I am new to the forums, having bought my Forester only 2 weeks ago but I am getting the feeling that this is a good place to be to get help with any potential problems. How does it work? Do you just post a message when you have a problem and others help? I have sensed that there is an "open forum" time when Patti (she is the Subaru rep right?) joins in. Is there any other way to get in touch with her if you are having major problems?

I have been hearing of some standard problems with the Forester. Someone posted on another forum about leaky head gaskets and now on this one there seems to be a thread about early brake wear. This is dissappointing since I had a Subaru 9 years ago that I never had to change the brake pads in the 120,000 miles that I owned it (and yes I had it checked every tire rotation at 7,500 miles).

once_for_all

bay, well and congrats on your new Forester! I trust you will find that you made a wise choice. My '03 XS has 28k on it now and has not had any issues or recalls while giving 26 to 28 mpg consistently.

Only common complaint is "Hal" the contrary autoclimate control, but is yours an X,XS, or XT?

John

susief21

I purchased the touch up paint from my dealer for my outback '04, regatta red. Is there anything special I should do before or after applying it?
AFter applying it, how long does it need to dry?
Thanks for the help.

Susie

baydrive

My new Forester is an X so I do not have the autoclimate feature. It seems from this forum that that feature seems problematic. I am happy to hear that except for the auto A/C, your Forester is doing fine.

Yes, it was hard for me to decide on what car to buy. I looked at the RAV4, CR-V and even the Matrix before I decided that the Forester had evrything that I wanted. So far it seems like the right choice.

fibber2

Tim,

I tried to reply to your post on Friday, but it looks like the server update ate my entry.

At only one year old and with 26k miles, nothing like caliper pins or bracket bolts should break on a routine service. Assuming this was performed at an authorized Subaru dealership, anything that breaks, whether it be due to metalurgical failure or ineptitude by the mechanic, should be fully covered. The only thing you should have received was an explanation and an apology.... I suggest that you contact the dealership management, or the district office if you aren't reimbursed.

Steve

gherman131313

Timo43,

In fine print under the basic 36,000 mile warranty, Forester, brake pads are covered!

My pads were down to 10% after just 35,000 of gentle braking. I got my dealer to do it under warranty and saved $200.

luck11

Well, better late than never! Link to some pics of painted rotors and calipers on my 05 OB XT LTD.....

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2627330093&congratulati- - on_page=Y

Thrown in a pic to show off the add on stainless steel exhaust tips.

Cheers,
Jay

c_hunter

Looks good Jay!

Craig

rangner

Hello all,

I have a 2000 OB with 65,000 miles on it. It started this squealing noise coming from the left front wheel the other day. It happens at all speeds as far as I can tell. It's not the brakes because I just changed them 3k ago. Maybe a wheel bearing needing some lube?

Eric

rangner

Hello all,

I have a 2000 OB with 65,000 miles on it. It started this squealing noise coming from the left front wheel the other day. It happens at all speeds as far as I can tell. It's not the brakes because I just changed them 3k ago. Maybe a wheel bearing needing some lube?

Eric

edunnett

when does it make the noise? all the time? when you turn the A/C on? as your start the car? maybe it's a belt slipping. part of your 60K service should have included checking belts for slippage and wear though.

edunnett

when does it make the noise? all the time or does it come and go? maybe it's a belt slipping. part of your 60K service should have included checking belts for slippage and wear though.

edunnett

Anybody know what this could be? I have an old carbureted car (let's call it a subaru ;-) with 130K miles on it that has recently had it's 120K service done but is suffering some transmission problems and oil leaks. I recently started noticing that if I rev the engine while in neutral, as the RPM go up, it sounds fine, but as the RPM come down to idle speed, the engine makes sort of a howling noise until it reaches idle speed. It idles quietly except for the tranny main shaft bearing. The noise is not noticable while driving except on rare occassions in 1st gear in parking lots as I slow to a stop. Could this be a water pump bearing? The water pump was recently replaced. There's no coolant loss, no escalation of the problem in the 1000 miles since I first noticed it. Could it just be normal?
Elissa

c_hunter

Could be a pebble stuck in between the caliper and disc, or in between the disc and heat shield. Take a look around the area.

Craig

troop2shos

If you haven't done so, rev the engine via the throttle linkage under the hood to see if you can isolate the noise. Since the water pump was recently replaced, I would insure the belt tension is adjusted properly & also verify the idler pulley bearing isn't making the noise.

rangner

As far as I can tell, it doesn't do it when the car is idling, but as soon as I start moving it comes back.

Thanks,

Eric

ateixeira

Nice, and clean rims, too. Thumbs up.

-juice

ateixeira

The problem is it doesn't have a Subaru logo on the hood. That's a serious problem, it's basically a total loss. Donate it and go buy a new Subie. ;-)

-juice

baydrive

I was wondering when I am supposed to have the oil changed in my new 2005 Forester. I see the maintenance booklet recommends it after the first 3000 miles, but after that they are suggesting every 7500 except if severe driving conditions are present. If the conditions are severe then they are recommending every 3750 miles. I have always had my oil changed in other cars I owned every 3000 miles. When are other people changing the oil?

xwesx

A squeal..... it does almost sound like a belt. Have you checked them to ensure they are adequately snug? You can quickly tighten either belt (ugh, do the '00 models still have two belts? One for the power steering/alt, one for the a/c?) with a few minutes and a couple of wrenches or sockets. But, you say it is coming from the wheel. I you could determine if it IS a belt just by revving the engine while the car is not moving. If the squeal starts, then it's likely a belt. If not, belts are fine.

If it is a sraping sound / squeal, then perhaps there is a small stone caught in your brake calipers on that wheel.

subearu

Follow the book for recommended intervals unless you meet the severe conditions (harsh conditions, etc).

-Brian

johnlse

I have an '03 Forester X and I have wind noise coming from the drivers side window. I had it repaired last year, under warranty, and it has happened again only this time the rubber gasket is tearing. It appears that the window rises up too far and that is what is causing the tear in the gasket. I'm sure that now that the vehicle is out of warranty this will be a costly repair, new parts and adjusting the window travel...

Has anyone else had a similar problem?