Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

bobb1

Help: My 2000 Outback with 116,000 great miles has decided to stall, but only on occasion. Have done all maintenance on time. Use Mobil gas - regular. Engine stalls whether hot or cold, only on occasion and I mean maybe once or twice a week. Have done the following: Into dealer 2 times - no result(no codes), run mid grade gas, run hi-test - still stalls, now trying a shift of gas stations to SHELL and starting with premium , will add red heet on Sunday and injector cleaner.
Suggestions????

xwesx

When it stalls, does it start right back up again, or do you have to wait a few minutes and then try?

I had a problem with my MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor) a few years back that caused it to stall on occasion, but the ECU never recorded a code. One mechanic suggested I replace the MAS on a hunch, and it has not happened since. Granted, it was a $200 hunch, but was cheaper in the long run than taking it to shop after shop and having them say "we can't find anything wrong with it."

Now, I asked if it takes a few minutes to start because mine did, but I think this is part of an ongoing problem I still experience today and seems to be independent of the stalling issue I had years ago. I suppose I am just curious...

troop2shos

FWIW, hearing light spark knock occasionally will not pose any problems - indicates your engine is running at peak efficiency. If your engine is not designed to run on mid-level or premium fuels, there is no benefit to use it & it can actually retard performance - regular flashes quicker. If your engine pings consistently & heavily under load running regular unleaded which it's designed for, then your engine may have other issues that fuel grade alone won't resolve.

subarujon

I am aggrevated tonight. I just replaced my 03 LL Bean Wagon windshield two months due to a crack caused by a rock chip?; on the way home from work tonight a cement truck going 80mph and spraying rocks all over the highway got my windshield...another crater. I will try the resin repair if possible this time. In general, my Beaner windshield seems to attract rocks...I am always hearing things peening off of it. I try to avoid trucks on the highway...either backing off or speeding around the darn things.
My auto dim rear view mirror was replaced a month ago...never worked right...and the replacement does not work very well either.
My 30K service is due; my dealer wants $475 to do it. I have never replaced brake fluid at 30k before (US autos).
I sure like my Beaner in winter, but I am getting down with all this stuff right now...I am thinking of trading it off this weekend.
Please tell me something to change my mind!
Thanks,

jon

reblack_jr

Over the years I have found that the boots of my cars (mostly Hondas) last longer if I park the car with the wheels straight. I purposely align the wheels to avoid the flex ridges from being stretched or "loaded" for long durations. The only time they are stretched to a limit is when the wheels are fully turned.
Before any one comments, I avoid parking on hills where people recommend turning the wheels to keep the car from rolling down the hill.
-Bob-

c_hunter

Excellent point, I have heard the same advice.

Craig

locke2c

hearing light spark knock occasionally will not pose any problems - indicates your engine is running at peak efficiency. If your engine is not designed to run on mid-level or premium fuels, there is no benefit to use it & it can actually retard performance - regular flashes quicker.
sorry, this is totally false.

I disagree-- hearing any knock is abnormal. sustained knock is most definitely doing damage to the engine because the cylinder pressure under detonation is SEVERAL TIMES higher than a normal burn. usually rings / ring lands or rod bearings go first. when you hear knocking the first and only acceptable reaction is to lift your foot off the gas until the noise subsides. if you were climbing a hill or accelerating hard in a high gear at low RPM, downshift and try again. if you have an automatic... um, accelerate more gently?

running more octane than your engine requires won't hurt the engine at all. it could be a waste of money, sure. premium fuel does burn a bit more slowly than regular but it should not meaningfully affect the engine-- it's not 116 octane leaded racegas, nor methanol.

detonation has a few typical causes:
- carbon deposits or other combustion chamber abnormality
- inadequate fuel pressure (pump or filter bad)
- ignition timing off
- large throttle opening under heavy load at low RPM

If your engine pings consistently & heavily under load running regular unleaded which it's designed for, then your engine may have other issues that fuel grade alone won't resolve.

this is mostly true. there are variances in engines and driving styles and terrain vary greatly. some cars just might need premium, even though the manufacturer's information says that only 87 is required. check your MPG and of course, listen for knock, and if your car runs better on 91 than on 87 even if it's 'only' a naturally aspirated 2.5L Subaru, then you'd be foolish to run 87.

more information here:
http://api-ec.api.org/printerformat.cfm?ContentID=4218DF26-FFDF-4- - - A44-90410F150BF14E4E

it's a totally different rant, but the premium for premium is NOT that great. it's a tiny portion of owning/operating a car.

~Colin
(IT guy for an oil company, also car nut)

timo43

Negotiating to get at least some relief from the $284.92 (Canadian) brake bill for front brake pads and caliper slide pin replaces at the 42k kilometer service. Looks like at least some part of this may get refunded-- won't know until Monday. And for those who mentioned pads should be covered under warranty, apparently the Canadian warranty is different in this regard (sigh).

But in the meantime, just after this brake job, received a brochure in the mail from Subaru Canada advertising fall specials, and one is for front brake service, including 'Subaru Six Star brake pads" etc. for $129.95 installed. This was another irritation, since I was not told about this special when they did my brakes. When I asked the service manager about this, his response was that the brake pads included in the special were junk, and he would not use those-- the ones they put on were the good, more expensive ones. Subaru "Six star' brake pads are junk? Is this likely? Would he have put something else, something better, on when they did my front brakes? Just curious, of course. Thanks for any light you can shed on this ongoing saga. Tim.

rangner

Thanks for the advice Dave, but I think it just might be the parking brake on the left side.

When I changed my pads, I fiddled with it trying to inspect it. I think the shoes are rubbing against the drum intermittently after I release the parking brake.

It's a bear to get to so I just might leave it alone for awhile.


Eric

rangner

Hello all!

I was wondering if anybody had any experience owning a 1990's Legacy 2.2 Turbo? It seems they were produced in limited numbers. Any problems finding parts? Turbo reliability etc?

Just thinking of getting one as a second car.

Eric

troop2shos

Personally, I miss tweaking distributor spring rates & manually adjusting distributor timing to get the advance I need with A/F mixtures & just backing off just prior to detonation. Higher grades of fuel have spark knock inhibitors so that you can take advantage of the advance latitude & high compression. If an engine is not designed to utilize or take advantage of premium fuels, then there is nothing to be gained unless there is a gross production variance dialed into the engine - quite rare anymore. You get more bang for your buck running lower octane fuels. Higher octane fuels can be compressed more & they are harder to ignite. Almost all production passenger cars & trucks are designed to run on regular unleaded (or worse) especially from those manufacturers who sell their vehicles where fuel standards are suspect or non existent - though performance may suffer with some (especially those with forced induction). The spark curves / engine mapping is designed for optimal use / burn rate of lower octane fuels. Now, fuel quality relating to minimum ASTM standards is another issue.
Again, if your engine is designed to run on regular unleaded fuel & if you're getting consistent heavy pre-ignition (not occasional light spark knock), your engine / engine management system including the EGR needs to be looked at...unless your filling station / fuel supplier has problems. If running a higher octane fuel reduces or eliminates the knock, fine...but it may only be a short term solution.

Both of my Gen II & Gen III high compression SHO's ran faster on a steady diet of 87 than the "recommended" (not required) 91+. For my XT, I run 91 or 93 premium to allow the engine to run at its full capability & the small extra expense with the miles I drive on business is a non issue - but it can run on '87. My '50's / 60's sports cars that I raced required Sunoco 110 leaded to run properly with their mods (good drip gas worked okay & my '70 Rover 3500s would self destruct on anything less than premium without being water injected to lower the heat from its high compression. Many people discovered this in their Olds JetFire when they failed to keep their alcohol injection bottles filled (same basic engine sans turbo).

Yeah, well, my family members have worked for oil companies including engineering & production & I've sold various products to refineries for over 30 years & worked pipeline for a large oil company putting my way through college...so?

eps105

Just had my 30,000 mile recommended mtce. done today on my '03 Forester XS by my dealer here in the Philadelphia area. FYI, their standard charge for everything is $450 (although they make a $40 discount coupon readily available, so it's really $410.) I still think that's high, so I itemized what I wanted done verbatim out of the Subaru manual. Surprisingly, doing it a la carte based on what Subaru really requires, it turned out to be about $350 including the discount. I think this is a still a little high (Edmunds guide computes $303), but not too bad. I did save a few bucks by NOT having them rotate my tires (since I'm getting new ones in a few weeks -- can't wait to get rid of those sqealy Yokos!).

Anyway, the info above is just FYI, but I do have a question....

Subaru only recommends CHECKING the trans. fluid every 30,000 miles; they don't set an interval to change it.

I'd like to find out public opinion if others change it every 30K or just let it go until it shows signs of deterioration. For those of you that have had it changed, how often do you do it and what is a fair price? My dealer wanted $99 and I said "no thanks"!

Alternatively, is it easy to change yourself?

Thanks,
Elliot

rangner

I assume you have an automatic transmission. I change mine every 30k just to make the tranny last as long as possible.

As for ease of changing, it's about as hard as changing the engine oil, maybe even easier because no filter to change.

Raise the front end up and climb underneath the ATF pan should be rectangular and a little ways past the CV joints. Just place an oil drain pan underneath and remove the drain plug. Drain till empty and then put the drain plug back and refill with fresh ATF through the dipstick tube.

Ahh, the tranny feels better already.

Cheers,

Eric

rangner

Oh and don't forget to fill the tranny to full when the car is running. I filled it to full when it was off one time and roughed up my transmission

Eric

volkov

FWIW the 2.2L turbo has a great reputation amongst the tuner crowd for its resilience and reliability. And that is reliability in a setting of being subjected to abnormally high boost levels etc that would be considered beyond abusive in the consumer world. Gotta think that a 2.2 which has been properly cared for would do very well. My neighbour is happy enough with his that he replaced the tranny(himself) at 200K kms rather than part with it. That was two years ago, and she's still running great. Then again, maybe a car that needs a new tranny at 200k is not very reliable in your book.

Nicholas

solowalker

I think there is an auto tranny filter...There is a cannister on the side of the tranny housing and I assume this is a screw on type filter..(oil filter type)..I have a 2000 S Forester.

By the way, what brand of ATF did you use to top off the tranny? How many pints to re-fill?

I'm thinking of finally changing mine...

Anybody ever fix the clock between the visors? Mine just went black last night..

Thanks

locke2c

troop, there is no EGR on modern Subarus. FYI.

the burn rate difference between 87 and 93 is insignificant. the chances of having a problem running too high of octane are miniscule (and minor in nature-- 1-2 less MPG) compared to the very real likelihood of damage if an engine suggests/requires 91+ and you run less than that.

but as I said and you did not refute, sometime engines are different. try different brands of gas first, then different octanes. we also agreed detonation that can be duplicated on demand is a sure sign something is wrong.

~c

hondafriek

Actually there is a filter on the Auto tranny, and I understand it is quite expensive somewhere in the region of $40USD.from what some people have posted.

 I have not priced one for myself so I am not sure if this price is accurate.

  Cheers Pat.

rob_m

Pat, I paid $39.95 a few months back when mine started leaking. Rob M.

hondafriek

Wow, wonder what makes them so pricy?

  Cheers Pat.

jfl

The service manual states "ATF filter is maintenance free part. ATF filter needs replacement, when it has physically damaged or ATF leaked." (sic)

ATF fluid capacity: 9.8 (+0.3/-0.0) US qt. [I recommend you verify this number with your owner's manual as the numbers were different between the owner's and service manuals for the manual tranny fluid capacity!]

Above data from 2000 Legacy & OB Service Manual - section 1.

Jim

self_mechanic

The last time I changed the ATF on my 02 Bean, I notices that the drain plug does not have a magnet embeded in the plug. It is just a plain drain plug. Are the magnets sitting in the ATF pan? The front and rear differential drain plugs do have magnet embeded in the drain plugs. I haven't look for the ATF filter yet. Is it external or internal? Just curious.

Alland

rob_m

I finally got around to replacing the bulbs for the Heating/AC panel on my 99 GT yesterday.

The dealer quoted me 90 DOLLARS to do this. I paid $15 for the bulbs, and had it done in 20 minutes.

Thanks for the instructions, Paul (Hammerhead). Also, thanks for the tip on the e-clip holding the cable housing, Craig - that was a total PITA.

Rob M.

rangner

To tell you the truth I don't know if that's the filter or not. I never worried about it because it's not a regular maintenance item.

I used about 4.5~5 qts of ATF to refill. I refilled with quaker state synthetic 4X4 ATF but I'm not really satisfied with it. It seems to bubble too easy--maybe too thin. Try some other good synthetic like Amsoil or Redline. Or just go with regular ATF.

I don't have a clock there maybe someone else can chime in

Eric

eps105

Thanks everyone for the info on the ATF. (And sorry I didn't make it clear that I have an automatic.) I answered my own question somewhat by finding the details in the Forester Service Manual, and they jive with what others have said -- the filter does not need to be replaced and the Forester's capacity is 9.8 quarts.

They recommend "Dexron III type" ATF and I'm a stickler for using what the mfgr. specifies, so that's what I will use.

By the way, one poster mentioned the requirement to add the fluid with the engine running. I do not see this mentioned anywhere in the Service Manual -- only to CHECK the ATF level with a warm engine after refilling. (I.E., fill to middle of "cold" check position on dip stick, then warm up car and verify that it is now within "hot" range.) Can anyone else elaborate about their experience with the proper changing of ATF? Thanks.

I might just try doing this myself and save the $99 (minus ATF cost) that my dealer wanted to charge me. Thanks again everyone!

Elliot

ateixeira

You can come over and do the timing on my Miata if you miss it that much. ;-)

-juice

ateixeira

The EJ22 is, in my opinion, Subaru's most reliable engine ever made.

So the turbo had a great starting point.

paisan has one, it used to belong to Jim in Texas. It's running well and withstanding hard driving, too.

-juice

erics6

I've got a 93 turbo with 150k miles on it. It is a bit of a gas hog. I average around 18-19 mpg using super. No problems with the turbo. The auto tranny is expensive to rebuild and it would be hard to find a used one. I haven't had any problems with parts.

Here's a good website with Legacy info.
www.legacycentral.org

dcm61

Just a warning. The total ATF capacity is 9.8 quarts but you will only drain 4.5 to 5 quarts.

Here's what I do to make the job simple.

1. Check the fluid before draining (with engine running). Note if low or high.
2. Drain fluid.
3. Measure drained fluid.
4. Add the same amount of new fluid as what you drained. Make minor adjustment if fluid was originally high or low.
5. Start the car, shift between all gears, put in Park.
6. Check the fluid. It should be the same as when you started.
7. Adjust fluid if necessary.

DaveM

ozman62

seems to be prone to failure. I think on another website I read that it was a specific resistor going bad. Unless you're an electronics technician, replacing the whole thing is probably the easiest solution. Pry a little on the bezel, it'll pop right out. Find a used one at a wrecker, and replace, it's that easy.
HTH,
Owen

ateixeira

For parts check these guys out:

http://www.fsautoparts.com/

-juice

rangner

cptplt

subarujon, if you don't like changing brake fluid at 30K, don't get a VW or Audi, they need changing at 2 years regardless of mileage!
its a safety issue, brake fluid is hygroscopic (? correct term), with time it absorbs water and performance degrades.

zelenka

I have a '99 Forester L automatic with 116,000 miles that has just returned from the dealer after having the head gasket, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets replaced for $1600. I am still in shock and I would like to know if this means that the engine is vulnerable to other repairs. This was so expensive and I noticed on this forum that some people have had this repair done twice, which would kill me! The Subaru service manager assured me that the engine looked fine and I shouldn't have anymore trouble and that the repair was warranted for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever came first.
I am trying to decide whether to get a new car, or hold onto this one. The car has been in the shop twice before for oil leaks, but that repair (around $400) was nothing compared to this one. I live in a relatively small town and the nearest Subaru dealership is 90 minutes away, so getting parts is always an issue. I need reliable transportation, not glamour.
I had hoped to keep this car for a few more years, but I am uneasy. Is there hope and survival for this car?

edunnett

Hm... I'm no mechanic but my evaluation be this. First of all, even a new head gasket every year, is cheaper than a new car. Also, you are coming on 120K miles, which is a BIG maintance milestone. This is the point at which most engines either start acting their age or their owners put the requisite $$ into the required maintance. This maintance should include a new timing belt if you haven't had one replaced already, a new water pump while you're at it and I'd do a complete inspection of all systems, possibly look into the tires, emissions, electrical, cooling, etc. I would recommend finding a reputable shop and having them repair or replace anything that looks amiss plus replace everything that Subaru recommends you replace at 120K. If you do that AND you have taken good care of the car up until now, then you will likely be the owner of a reliable 99 Forester for a few more years to come. If you only repair what's broken (and never do the pro-active maintanance) you will find yourself chasing replair jobs with your car out of commission some days of the year while it's in the shop. I just spent about $2000 on an '86 Civic doing the 120K service and having a few repairs done too. And that's $2000 paid to the shop AFTER I did a lot of my own maintanance! After all that the car got new timing belt, new water pump, spark plugs and wires, new tires and alignment, oil change and filter, flushed cooling system, new water hoses, new cooling fan motor and switch, new radiator, new vacuum advance, timing adjusted, vacuum tubes replaced, new brake calipers, brake system bled and refilled, new air filter, new light bulbs all around, carbureter tuned, new CV filter and valve, crankcase leak fixed, carb cleaned, new fuel filters, new wipers, new battery, adjusted idle speed, adjusted clutch and parking brake, inspected suspension, inspected axle CV boots for cracks, replace AC and alternator belts, replace cam seal it was leaking, adjusted throttle, other stuff I can't remember. While the car was running "well" before all that work, I am now assured it will continue running well for some time.
Elissa

locke2c

First of all, even a new head gasket every year, is cheaper than a new car.

sage advice. it hurts our ego and appeals to negative emotions when we have to pay out of pocket for repairs / expensive maintenance, but it's definitely true that you have to accumulate a lot of work before you get into the realm of buying a new car being 'better'. ...assuming you stick with similarly priced and similarly reliable vehicles.

if the head gasket goes again, have the head / block o-ringed. THAT seems to be a permanent fix the recurring EJ series head gasket problems regardless of year, type of head gasket, etc. plus it'll be only $75 - 200 depending on your machinist.

~C

baydrive

Hey Everyone,

I have had my Forester for 3 weeks now. I am a bit nervous over something that has happened a few times and I do not know if it is me or the car. The Forester I have is a 2005 with an automatic transmission. For the last 10 years I had driven cars with manual transmissions so it has taken some adjustment to drive without shifting. Tonight when I was driving home I slowed way down to take a turn.....when I tapped the gas the car seemed to lurch forward. This has happened a few times and I can not figure out if it's the car or the way I am driving because I was always used to working 2 pedals and maybe I am hitting the gas harder than I think.....but the deal is that for a split second I feel the car is out of control. Do you think I should keep an eye on it to try to determine if I am being abrupt or should I go running back to the dealer now? Has anyone heard of this before? Am I being paranoid?

ezshift5

lfdal

If I'm slowing while in a low speed (less than 20mph) curve and give it some gas, I'd best do it gingerly or the transmission will downshift and give me whiplash. Just another "feature". I didn't worry about it on my 04 XT becasue my 03 XS was exactly the same way - interesting it is a lot more noticable in turns than if I were to decelerate on a straightaway and then accelerate - that's normally pretty smooth.

Larry

locke2c

does the car have throttle-by-wire? if so, sometimes they are very abrupt. I imagine the thinking is that you require very little throttle input to get 'most' of your driving done... I'm not sure. my father's 4Runner has a pretty serious problem (well, intended function actually) like that.

I hate a non-linear throttle.

~Colin

ateixeira

116k miles is a lot. If you had less than 100k it would actually have been covered by Subaru's extended warranty.

Your repair should be covered for a year, that's pretty standard. And if you make it to 232k miles before your next major failure, well, congratulations, that's incredible.

I wouldn't worry, unless you had severe overheating and warped the heads.

The 2005 Forester indeed has throttle-by-wire, though it was actually tuned to be more linear, supposedly, which explains why the EPA estimates for fuel mileage improved.

I haven't actually sampled the new throttle myself so I can't compare it to my '98. The throttle on my wife's 2002 Legacy was not very linear, though.

-juice

baydrive

Thanks guys......this morning I am a bit calmer and I realize that it is like everyone says.....the car is very responsive and since I don't have any shifting to do I am just too aware of it.....just need time to know the car. It does just what Larry says his car does.....so I should take it easy on the curves.

jcabin

I have been getting a growling/buzzing vibration in the steering wheel at idle while the engine is warming up, especially present when I turn the steering wheel left or right. Any idea what this might be? As the vehicle warms up and the idle drops, so does the vibration. If I put the car into neutral it pretty much goes away. The vehicle is a 2004 3.0 6 cylinder Outback wagon with 5900 miles on it.

rkw2

I have a 1997 automatic Forester with about 117,000 miles. Car has been fairly well maintained. Last week I noticed that the temp indicator was approaching H. Brought in to the dealer. Put in new thermostat, flushed radiator and new radiator cap. Said all belts and fans were working properly. Next day same thing happened. THen I noticed that if i turned off the heater and drove less than 45 mph temp indicator stayed in normal range. Brought it back and they cleaned out the heating coil.Once again it hit the H. While driving tonight I noticed that when the heater was on, there was a lot of static on the radio. Once again indicator hit the H. Then when I turned the radio off the indicator was in the normal range. It appears to me that there may be some short some place that is causing teh car to overheat when the radio and/or heater are on. Anyone know of a fix.

Thanx

Rich

ateixeira

There was no '97 model in the US, you sure it's not a '98?

My guess is the electrical problem is just coincidental. I suspect you have leaky head gaskets, or a bad seal. Have your mechanic inspect those areas (front, rear, and bottom sides of the block) for leaks.

Has your coolant level dropped at all?

-juice

saedave

If turning off the radio changes the temperature reading that is an indication of a temperature guage wiring or under-dashboard wiring problem. A loose common ground return for the heater fan, radio and temperature guage is what I would look for. This also might be corrosion in a common connector to the positive bus. The heater fan causing radio static is another indicator of this type of fault.

Your engine temperature might be ok.

c_hunter

I second David's excellent advice!

Craig

rkw2

Thanks for your help. My mistake...it is an early production 1998 that i purchased in August 1997.Tonight I took her out.....drove for about 15 minutes at 35 to 40 mph, no heater no radio. As soon as i hit 45 plus miles the indicator shot up to H. I noticed driving home that if i stay within the 35 to 40 mph range the indicator is where it should be. It goes to H above and below this range. The car did overheat a couple of times when the dealer was testing it.

There are dangling/hanging wires under the dash. They are brown with a round silver plug like end (looks like the plug that goes into my cell phone when i recharge it). But i think they've been dangling since i've had the car.When the car was new I found soem dangling wires and the dealer stuck them into a hole under the dash: do not remember if it was these or another set. I leave for work and return home in the dark. I'll check these out over the weekend.

Is there any one at Subaru who could maybe help me out.

Thanks again

dcm61

My guess is a blown head gasket on the driver's side. Your are experiencing the typical symptoms of a 2.5L DOHC head gasket failure. Ocassionally there will be a film of oil floating in the coolant recovery tank.

The dangling wires are probably the wires that are connected only for diagnostic purposes. They are normally not connected. But if you are having electrical problems you should ask about the wires.

DaveM

simon_tx

I was talking with a non dealer mechanic who works on my wife's Honda and does other imports as well.

He personally owns a Subaru and I was inquiring about his opinion since I'm looking at a Legacy wagon.

He made the following comment:

"They're great little cars when they are going good, but if something breaks you're gonna pay out you're #@%&@".

He said something to the effect that Subaru imports their parts into the US through dealerships, so if you want OEM parts installed by someone other than a dealer you usually get gouged or they refuse to sell to private repair shops.

Has anyone heard this before or have any thoughts?

I realize a new car would be under warranty for a while, but I'm looking long term.