Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

sduford

I don't have any chips on my hood yet but I do have a nasty gash on the front bumper. It looks like a rather large rock dented the plastic in two places about an inch apart. It got deep enough to show the black plastic under the paint.

Is it possible to touch up the bumpers?

Sly

ateixeira

If it's a painted bumper you can just use touch-up paint. They do sell the bumper colors at the dealer.

If it's unpainted like my L, one option would be the paint the entire bumper, but it's not an idea that I liked at all. I just live with the dings and call them Badges of Courage. ;-)

-juice

sduford

Yes mine are painted (monotone Champagne).

Just wondering if the regular touch-up paint will take on the plastic bumpers...

ateixeira

It should, they were painted to begin with.

I do think the paint doesn't adhere quite as well to the bumpers, though.

-juice

sduford

Plastic usually requires special primers and/or processes. That's why I'm not assuming the regular touch-up paint will work.

I guess the best way to fidn out is to try it! That will have to wait until spring though...

hammerhead

I wonder if letting that fresh fluid work awhile might clear things up, then get another flush performed to finish the clean-up job from within?

Cheers!
Paul

fibber2

I was thinking along the same lines as Paul while reading the new posts. If it goes into drive faster than it did, there is indeed hope that it will continue to improve. The shop near me does it in two steps, with a solvent added first, then flushed out and new fluid added when they encounter a really gummy unit. I will see if I can stop by and find out what they use.

Steve

1evilduck

I'll look forward to hearing what they use. Thanks
Ryan

c_hunter

Yeah, it will work -- I have already had to touchup a few chips on my gold bumper. Got another one on the hood today when a dump truck on the highway hit a bump and spewed rocks all over the place. You just can't win with a new car!!

On plastic, it will take more coats than on metal, but that's OK -- usually you need more coats to completely fill the chip anyways. So put on the first coat and let it dry for 30 min. Then add more coats, about 30 min apart as needed to fill the chip.

I also use Langka (www.langka.com) to make the chip repair as good as possible. With some color paints, you can pretty much make the chip go away.

Craig

jtom

okay, I'm going to change my ff tomorrow. It's a 94 impreza fuel injected and I want to depressurize it. My chiltons says disconnect the line to the fuel pump...turn over engine until it doesn't start, dissconnect (-) batt..etc. But the photo does not look like my engine and I don't clearly see the fuel pump at all. Can I (1) just leave it overnight, unscrew the gas cap and hold a towel over the hoses? or (2) disconnect a fuse to the fuel and continue with instructions? Sorry for the newbie question, it looks SO darn easy, I want to do it myself. thanks a bunch - julie

sduford

Thanks for the advice Craig.

Funny that's exactly what happened to me. Dump truck coming out of a construction site, sprayed rocks all over me. I was suprised not to have more damage.

Sly

hilbert

How many of guys have Hood deflectors here? Someone mentioned that he/she finds them very effective. Do other people have the same experience. What do you generally think about them? Are they worth buying?

flapper

Well, I have the hood deflector on my 2005 Outback Sport. I guess it's worth it, but the way the paint on this car chips, I don't think in the long run it'll matter much. Looks nice, though!

c_hunter

I had a deflector on my 00 and 02 Outbacks. It took a lot of abuse and definitley protected the leading edge of the hood. However, I still got an ocassional chip elsewhere on the hood and car from time to time.

I haven't gotten one for my XT yet, probably won't.

BTW there is a specific hood deflector for the turbo models, so make sure you get the right one!

CRaig

fibber2

Julie,

The fuel rail is at about 35 psi when the engine is on, but without the pump running, the line pressure drops off rapidly. I skipped the steps and went right to a jar, rag, rubber gloves and goggles. There was a little squirt as the pressure was vented, then a dribble of maybe 2-3 ounces. And by skipping the pump step you will have less issues with a possible leak way back where you will not see it, and less problems with purging air from long empty lines.

Steve

fibber2

I got two chips on my '02 OBW during the first week of ownership, and ran to my dealer for the deflector. Virtually no hood damage since putting it on. But inspect it regularly. My first one cracked at about 15 months old at one of the fold-unders.

Steve

hilbert

Thanks guys. The deflector looks (from far) very fragile to me. I have not looked for chips yet on my OBXT. I will see how much the Turbo one costs.
 Craig, my car is back to its normal. I think you are right, i was just being paranoid that day.

I have not washed my car yet (which is when I will perhaps notice them).
I live in an apartment (second floor) and unfortunately I do not think I have an access to a tap here where I can plug in a hose. I am still wondering how to wash it. Any idea how I can search for self help car wash places? Are these the places where they give you access to a tap and a hose and then you can wash your own car?

c_hunter

Deflector is pretty tough -- it's made out of plexiglass. I did have a couple chips in mine (which means it saved the hood from a dent likely). And ocassionally they will crack in the line of duty. But at $55 or so, it's cheap insurance if you are worried about chips/etc.

When I lived in an apartment, I got an adapter to hook a hose to my kitchen sink, and then ran it downthe stairs out to the car. Be sure that's OK with your apartment complex -- some of them frown on this sort of thing.

Craig

cbmorton

I had a hood deflector on a previous car. Worked well, kept the hood more or less pristine, and was sturdy. However, my unprotected bumper still got all chipped up and it was a pain when I wanted to remove the deflector to clean underneath it. Based on my experience so far with the clear 3M paint protection film on my OBS I probably wouldn't go with a deflector again. However, the 3M film is a bit of an investment so the deflector is still the best inexpensive way to go.

nutfan

My 99 Impreza with about 35k miles got a check engine light. I took to a dealer and was told that the front oxygen sensor was bad. I also agreed to have 30k mile service and an alignment done. When I got the car back, it was noted that I had a noisy fuel pump. They did not have one in stock and did not think it was a problem. This service cost about
$1100. After 2 days the car would not start. Had it towed to the dealer, it was the fuel pump. When they replaced the pump (and charged me $600), it ran fine to get home. The next day it would not start, it was towed back to the dealer and it was the fuel pump again. After= they put a second fuel pump in it, it failed while they were testing it. Has anyone heard of a similar string of problems or have any idea of a cause?

ateixeira

Honestly? I think it's riskier to open the fuel system and start the engine than it would be to skip de-pressurization in the first place.

I just opened the gas cap, clamped the supply hose, and installed the new filter in place.

-juice

ateixeira

If that's not it, could be a clogged fuel filter. If fuel supply is good, I'd test for spark. My guess would then be spark plugs or plug wires.

-juice

hilbert

Do you think these chips become prominent after some point of time. If not, I really do not care much. May I ask, why you have decided against the deflector this time? That will help me make my decision.

Thanks for the info. about the hose adapter.

Thanks,
Hilbert

xwesx

Oy. Maybe this 'recommendation' is just to cover their butts, but when I've changed the filter, I never had a problem with the fuel spraying or, for the most part, even leaking. If the engine has been off for more than an hour or so, I barely even get a dribble - maybe an ounce, but I doubt it.

The best piece of advice my service manual ever gave me: CAUTION! GASOLINE IS FLAMMABLE!

I couldn't believe it. Gasoline..... burns??! ;-)

ateixeira

I think mine spilled a few drips. Wiped it up and gave it time to evaporate, that was that.

-juice

snowbelter

We live east of Rochester where we get 160 inches of snow and own two Outbacks. My wife hated driving in the snow, but with her Outback she wonders why everyone else is going so slow. She doens't want snowtires. I found the RE 92s on my car (an02 VDC) to be fine during my first two winters of ownership. Last winter, the third one, I found the tires had a lot of tread left at 26,000 mi, but no longer gripped. I bought a set of Nokian WRs which are an all-season tire made in Finland, with a bias for snow. They were great and are good in the summer, too. I expect I won't get more than 35-40,000 miles out of them as they are a softer rubber than most all-season tires. They are a compromise as I didn't want two sets of tires. Someone here suggested when it snows you head for a parking lot and get a feel for how your car handles in the snow. Stopping as well as starting. Based on our experience, you should get a couple of winters use from your current tires. I assume you live in or near RIT or U of R and the roads are usually well-cleared there when it snows. If you are heading to the Tug Hill Plateau or Adirondacks for skiing, or if you find your car's handling too uncertain in the snow, then get yourself a set of mid-range name brand snow tires mounted on steel wheels. I would also check with your local Subaru dealer to see if they sell snow-tire packages, as some do. VanBortel is the largest Subaru dealer in the country and has a good reputation for service (I have no personal experience with them) and might be able to help you with tires. Get a deflector. They are cheap and they help keep dings off the hood of your car. Wash your car no less than once every two weeks in the winter. They use tons of salt on the roads here which destroys the metal on your car and your alloy wheels. Many car wash places have a self-service part which has a roof and open ends, where you put in quarters and wash your car with their wand. The downside is the water is under high pressure. Because of all the salt, make sure you rinse underneath your car and washthe salt off the brake rotors. Its 38 degrees here today and even if you had your own hose hook-up, you'd be freezing. A personal question: Is Hilbert your name or does it relate to "Hilbert's 4th Problem"? Good luck. Martin

hilbert

Thanks a ton Martin. I live in Brighton. Can you please name one or two car washes that have a self-service part? That would be really helpful. I will go for a wash this weekend.

QUESTION: You said that the water is under high pressure and that is a downside. Why is that a downside??

How come you have no experience with Van Bortel. Any Subaru I see on the road is a Van Bortel. I have seen only one which was Doyle. Do you go to Doyle for you servicings or Piehler?

No Hilbert is not my real name. It relates to David Hilbert the Mathematician.

Thanks once again for the information and it would be great if you can tell me of any car washes which you know have self service parts.

ateixeira

I think the RE92s degrade quickly with wear. On older set will clearly not be good in snow.

That may be why we see different opinions on these tires.

-juice

snowbelter

I'm 100 or so miles east of you. Thats Syracuse. We get our cars serviced here. If I lived where you do, I'd go to Van Bortel (based on their reputation). When you're out driving around, keep a lookout for a self-service car wash. Ask at a gas station or ask someone at work. High pressure washers can be hard on paint, so I don't usually turn the pressure up all the way. Our 8th grade son aces math, but I'm pretty miserable at it. My wife graduated from the U of R many years ago. Juice (ateixeira) is right about RE 92s degrading. I suspect that after 15-20k miles or a couple of winters, they may not work well in the snow. One more thing. My wife and I had H rated RE 92s on our cars. Your car has the V rated RE 92a which may handle or wear differently. Again, Go visit and emplty parking lot when it snows and check out your car's handling. Martin

damish003

Hilbert,

So how's Brighton these days? I'm an old Rich's Dugway man myself...I'm sure you're familiar. Hey, that's a road to test snows on, if you're into gambling. For everyone else, Rich's Dugway has more twists an turns than any other road I've been on. You do NOT want to have poor tires on during the winter with that road.

I didn't know Doyle or Piehler had Subies. I remember Doyle Chevrolet and Piehler Pontiac, but that's it.

You have a nice Delta Sonic near Panorama Plaza, I'd just stick with it. We just got one here in Erie, PA.

Brighton...wow!

-Dan-

hilbert

Thanks Dan and Martin for your inputs.

Brighton is great. Perhaps I should know this, but unfortunately I don't know Rich's Dugway. I have been here for only 4.5 months now.

It is possible that Doyle did not have subies earlier, but now they do. It is funny how they try to charge a higher price despite knowing that Van Bortel is so close and most importantly, she has all the prices listed on her web-site. No wonder hardly anyone buys from them.

I don't think I know where Panorama Plaza is but I am sure it will be easy to find out. I know one Delta Sonic, perhaps that is in Panorama Plaza. I will check there if they have self service.

damish003

FYI, Rich's Dugway runs between Blossom Rd. and Landing Road North. It ends at the park.

Panorama Plaza is actually in Penfield, at intersection of Penfield Rd. and Panorama Trail.

Didn't know you were a newbie to the area. I lived there 30 years. Glad Brighton's still a nice place to live.

Kitty runs a good ship, from what I can tell. Good luck there.

-Dan-

c_hunter

SO far I have skipped the deflector because I have the gold paint and I figured the black deflector would stick out too much (my last Outback was dark green so the deflector blended in). Of course, I could buy the deflector and then have it painted to match!!

CRaig

hilbert

The Gold paint looks great. I think lot of people are getting it. Also the dirt does not show easily.
I guess as far as utility is concerned you would have definitely got it otherwise. If it is $55, I might go for it then. I thought it was $110 or something.

c_hunter

That's the online price. Local dealers will likely sell it for $65-75 or more.

Craig

katyk

Deja Vu! I have also been having MPG problems. I have a 2002 Forester S, had great mileage first 1 1/2 yr and now typical 20-22 highway. I just had into the dealer last week, they pulled the codes & nothing. They said it is typical mileage. I disagree because I was averaging 25-26, but they had no suggestions. Very frustrating! I put on 25,000 miles a year-- and 4-5 MPG loss is pretty noticeable to the pocket book. Also, I live in Wisconsin, and if I was getting 20-22 in warmer weather- it is going to fall below 20 now that winter is here. That is really unacceptable, but the dealer doesn't seem to want to help.

What is this ECU? Is it easy to reset? Also a previous email said something about a chip that increases MPG- is this legit? If so how do you get one? Thanks for your help!

cmuniz

My bet is on the air filter. I changed the one on my Highlander and got an immediate improvement of 2-4 mpg. Take a look at it and if it's dirty, get a new one.

subearu

Keep in mind that if you live in an area of Wisconsin (or any metro area) that mandates reformulated fuel, you might get a special winter reformulated blend the can lower mpg as well. For most, it's 1 or 2mpg lower, but can be 3 or 4.

-Brian

jay_24

I'm not sure the reformulated fuel makes that much difference. I've been getting my normal summer mpg (27) up unitl this past week or so when it has gotten colder. Temperature seems to have a much bigger effect. I'm down to 25-26mpg now and expect 23-24 as it gets even colder.
Doesn't the reformulated gas start in October?

-jay
(up north cheese head)

ateixeira

Just FWIW, I lose about 2mpg on winter fuel blends. That could explain part of the drop, at least.

-juice

samiam_68

How many miles are on the car? Is it manual or automatic? when was it last serviced?

Things to try:
1 - get a tune up (spark plugs, air filter)
2 - try a different brand of gas or a different gas station
3 - try resetting the ECU - disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes should do it
4 - check your tire pressure
5 - check adjustment of parking brake to make sure it's not dragging
6 - have a mechanic test your oxygen and temp sensors to make sure they have correct resistance

Good luck!

ateixeira

I'd add spark plug wires to that list.

-juice

gmanmd

Thanks fibber2. I changed the bulb even though it looked okay and all is fine. The wires looked good going out to the headlight.

john27

I bought a 2004 LL Bean Outback 6 cyl auto in February. With almost 12,000 miles on the odometer, the transmission is still rough when moving through first and second gears. The transmission also whines at low revs. I've taken it back to the dealer who says that this is "normal" and that I should "live with it", but I'm really unhappy that what is supposed to be the top of the line vehicle disappoints me every time I take it out. Does anyone know of any remedies for this problem?

c_hunter

Are you sure the transmission is whining?? The reason I ask is that the older H6 motor makes a very noticable mechanical whir. It didn't really bother me, in fact it seemed to go well with the engine's smooth behavior.

Transmission whine, on the other hand, is not normal. The auto transmissions are generaly pretty quiet. So it sounds like you have a problem. Call the Subaru 1-800 number and start a case, then maybe try another dealer who is more interested in helping you.

Was hte car OK on the test drive -- is this something that has gotten worse??

Craig

fibber2

Cool! So it was a bulb with an internal short. Glad I could help.

Steve

jtom

thanks for the ff advice everyone. BTW, I just took my 1994 impreza in for it's 3rd cv boots job and it's first brake job (95k, yikes!) Lucky rotors were fine. But the loud HUMMING (sounded like tire noise) is from a bad left front wheel bearing. I'm a little bummed, they want to charge 4.5 hr. labor, so it's $375, but they were just in the front axle with the front brakes and LT cv boot. Anyhow, really like the mechanic, he's good, but ouch. Any comments of repair costs on repairing 1 sealed wheel bearing? May consider taking it to a cheaper mechanic, but don't wanna be back in a year for the same thing either. Thanks, everyone. -julie

a_bum

This is probably an odd question, but here goes...

We've had our 05 Forester XS for about a month now. Absolutely love the car. The seatback on the drivers power seat moves side to side with you when you go over some good size bumps. The passenger seat is not power and seems a lot tighter and doesn't move around. Has anyone else noticed this on the power seats? I don't think it's anything to really be concerned about, but it's an odd feeling. If it's abnormal, I'd like to be able to get it fixed.

mnf

You may want to check all the bolts holding down the seats. I would pop by the dealer and have them do it I am sure they would come out and take a look at it.... good luck

sduford

I don't think this is normal.

The power seats on my OBXT are rock solid. If anything I would think power seats would be more solid than manual ones.

I would definitely have your dealer look at it.

Sly